Forum Index > Trip Reports > Baker Coleman Deming route -6-25-06
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Edd
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Edd
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PostWed Jun 28, 2006 10:22 pm 
Just a short report (until I start rambling), on my experience finally getting to the top of Baker. It was my second attempt. I tried the Boulder route last year and we turned back at 10,000ft because of high winds. I have practiced crevass rescue on the easton glacier a couple of times, and have seen that route, but this is the first time I have been on the more westerly side of the mountain. Last year it took me twice also to get to the top of Rainier (winds also). This weekend called for hot clear weather with no chance of precipitation. I had been planning on Eldorado earlier in the week, but got a call to have the opportunity to lead a rope for the course I had taken the previous year, to learn glacier rescue, rope travel, ect. I had been helping on field trips this year having alot of fun, (not as much anxiety as when I was a student), see here I go. I never realized when I had read trip reports on Heliotrope, or however you spell it, that that was the approach (at least one) for this trip. We arrived early saturday afternoon at the base of the black buttes and began to set up camp. For variouse reasons I did not condition all winter as I normally do and am paying for it now. I was hot and tired by the time we set up camp. A very good stroke of luck though. Someone had dug a snow cave. A thermarest and about twenty minutes in there was very refreshing, also above the entrance water was dripping, a perfect opportunity to save fuel, just fill up bottles and filter. The plan was to get to sleep earyly and get up at 12:00am for an early start. I though could not stand to miss the sun setting on the mountain so no early to bed for me. After all was said and done we were on our way at about 1:45am. It was still very warm and I was a little concerned about snow conditions. Snow was pretty sloppy utill we crested the ridge on to the toe?, of the Roman Wall. To me the snow was perfect for crampons and not quite as steep as I had expected. I still felt very warm and was pretty tired as we crested the Roman wall onto the flat area leading to Grant Peak, the true summit. Here were able to take off our packs and go to the summit proper. I have been so integed to see into the crater ever since I saw pics taker by a geologist. I did have somewhat of a view but I would of liked to have gotten closer. I did notice the ski tracks Quark had talked about. I really wanted to head down there but knew at the time it probly would not be wise. I also noticed footprints headed to and into the schrund eek.gif . I started over to check it out but was called back to the rest of the group as we were about to leave. The sun was just cresting the summit when we arrived on the summit, I was very suprised to see so many people headed up on our way down. It was very hot by then (maybe it was just me). It was a very beautifull weekend, not a cloud in the sky, (accually I was hoping there were a few), but hey I definitly can't complain. Did though get some alpenglow on the summit, so it was worth the lack of sleep. I hardly ever do anyway. I found it much more appealling to me than Rainier. Just my opinion. Pics
evening
evening
sunset
sunset
alpenglow
alpenglow
head
head
lining up for break
lining up for break
summit
summit
view towards crater
view towards crater
dusk on black buttes
dusk on black buttes
sculpted snow
sculpted snow
tracks to schrund
tracks to schrund
view of Twin sisters
view of Twin sisters
crevass and icefall
crevass and icefall
steam vent
steam vent
another vent
another vent
reflecting
reflecting
snowbowl
snowbowl

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Tazz
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PostWed Jun 28, 2006 10:41 pm 
stun.gif superb images!!! some of the best I have seen in a while! You know just how to dance with the light and set a perfect compositions. Thanks for sharing your art and TR.

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Opus
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Joined: 04 Mar 2006
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Opus
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PostThu Jun 29, 2006 8:12 am 
And the NWHikers Mt Baker blitz continues! I summited with Edd on this one. What an amazing trip! Perfect conditions all around, except for the heat at base camp. That snow cave was sure handy. Great shots! I love the alpenglow images. I wished I'd stayed up for the sunset... And I wished I had the energy to haul up my SLR too!
The rest of the images and some panoramas are here.

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Tom
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PostThu Jun 29, 2006 8:15 am 
Awesome pics guys. up.gif

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l
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l
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PostThu Jun 29, 2006 8:19 am 
Edd, your particular blend of light and shadow is amazing.

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Tazz
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PostThu Jun 29, 2006 8:23 am 
Opus # 6 has me..... ykm.gif nice shot! biggrin.gif

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Don
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Don
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PostThu Jun 29, 2006 8:39 am 
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Guiran
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PostThu Jun 29, 2006 9:46 am 
Is there anyone on this board who wasn't on the C-D route last Sunday? I was part of a party of seven that headed out from a small rock patch between the Hogsback and the camps at 7000' around 3:45 and summited around 8. Beautiful area, but reinforces my desire to stay off crowded routes!
One of many rope teams heading up to 7000'
One of many rope teams heading up to 7000'
Alpinglow off Baker and Colfax
Alpinglow off Baker and Colfax
Mt. Baker
Mt. Baker

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dicey
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dicey
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PostThu Jun 29, 2006 9:50 am 
Guiran wrote:
Is there anyone on this board who wasn't on the C-D route last Sunday?
I wasn't tongue.gif Nice pics edd and opus!

I'm not always sure I like being older but being less stupid has advantages. http://www.flickr.com/photos/32121172@N00/sets/
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wildernessed
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PostThu Jun 29, 2006 10:22 am 
Spectacular ! I really need to be up there at some point. hockeygrin.gif

Living in the Anthropocene
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Spotly
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Spotly
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PostThu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 am 
Wow! Those are some really great shots. It was pretty lonely up there last year about this same time-frame.

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ActionBetty
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ActionBetty
Im a dirty hippie!
PostThu Jun 29, 2006 11:01 am 
Beautiful photos.. you have a way with lighting there Edd. oh one of these days I will climb that thar Mt.

"If you're not living good, you gotta travel wide"...Bob Marley
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Brain
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Brain
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PostThu Jun 29, 2006 2:01 pm 
I wasn't there and after reading the report and looking at the pictures I'm a little chapped about it. I wanted to do Baker this year, but just couldn't get the time...I already have it on the calendar for next June. Thanks much for sharing!!!

"It appears my hypocrisy knows no bounds." Doc Holiday (Val Kilmer) in Tombstone
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Quark
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Quark
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PostThu Jun 29, 2006 2:22 pm 
Edd, "summit" is such a beautiful photo - you could pick up chicks in a bar with it. You should carry it with you at all times.

"...Other than that, the post was more or less accurate." Bernardo, NW Hikers' Bureau Chief of Reporting
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Edd
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Edd
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PostThu Jun 29, 2006 5:27 pm 
Quark wrote:
Edd, "summit" is such a beautiful photo - you could pick up chicks in a bar with it. You should carry it with you at all times.
Yeah, I wish it were that easy winksmile.gif . Thanks Quark and everyone else. Yes it was pretty crowded, but I think it has alot to do with timing, and the difficulty (or lack of), that makes some routes so popular at times. Last year on the Emmons we were the only ones camped on the flat, and the only ones that attempted before nearly being blown off the mountain. Everyone else had either the good sense, or no desire to attempt in those conditions. Five days later I tried again and there were headlamps from camp to the schrund. I summited, but probly not one of my favorite trips from last year, but an accomplishment if nothing else. I had always wanted to do Rainier and Baker since I was a kid, and my lack of experience has kept me up till now anyways, on the easier routes. I think for me they were both great experiences though, the attempts as well as the summits. Here is a pic of everyone headed up the Roman wall, as we were nearly down. Glad for an early start.
busy wall
busy wall

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