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Edd Member
Joined: 23 Jun 2003 Posts: 296 | TRs | Pics
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Edd
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Wed Jun 28, 2006 10:22 pm
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Just a short report (until I start rambling), on my experience finally getting to the top of Baker. It was my second attempt. I tried the Boulder route last year and we turned back at 10,000ft because of high winds. I have practiced crevass rescue on the easton glacier a couple of times, and have seen that route, but this is the first time I have been on the more westerly side of the mountain. Last year it took me twice also to get to the top of Rainier (winds also). This weekend called for hot clear weather with no chance of precipitation.
I had been planning on Eldorado earlier in the week, but got a call to have the opportunity to lead a rope for the course I had taken the previous year, to learn glacier rescue, rope travel, ect. I had been helping on field trips this year having alot of fun, (not as much anxiety as when I was a student), see here I go.
I never realized when I had read trip reports on Heliotrope, or however you spell it, that that was the approach (at least one) for this trip. We arrived early saturday afternoon at the base of the black buttes and began to set up camp. For variouse reasons I did not condition all winter as I normally do and am paying for it now. I was hot and tired by the time we set up camp. A very good stroke of luck though. Someone had dug a snow cave. A thermarest and about twenty minutes in there was very refreshing, also above the entrance water was dripping, a perfect opportunity to save fuel, just fill up bottles and filter.
The plan was to get to sleep earyly and get up at 12:00am for an early start. I though could not stand to miss the sun setting on the mountain so no early to bed for me. After all was said and done we were on our way at about 1:45am. It was still very warm and I was a little concerned about snow conditions. Snow was pretty sloppy utill we crested the ridge on to the toe?, of the Roman Wall. To me the snow was perfect for crampons and not quite as steep as I had expected. I still felt very warm and was pretty tired as we crested the Roman wall onto the flat area leading to Grant Peak, the true summit.
Here were able to take off our packs and go to the summit proper. I have been so integed to see into the crater ever since I saw pics taker by a geologist. I did have somewhat of a view but I would of liked to have gotten closer. I did notice the ski tracks Quark had talked about. I really wanted to head down there but knew at the time it probly would not be wise. I also noticed footprints headed to and into the schrund . I started over to check it out but was called back to the rest of the group as we were about to leave.
The sun was just cresting the summit when we arrived on the summit, I was very suprised to see so many people headed up on our way down. It was very hot by then (maybe it was just me). It was a very beautifull weekend, not a cloud in the sky, (accually I was hoping there were a few), but hey I definitly can't complain.
Did though get some alpenglow on the summit, so it was worth the lack of sleep. I hardly ever do anyway. I found it much more appealling to me than Rainier. Just my opinion.
Pics
evening sunset alpenglow head lining up for break summit view towards crater dusk on black buttes sculpted snow tracks to schrund view of Twin sisters crevass and icefall steam vent another vent reflecting snowbowl
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Tazz Member
Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 7902 | TRs | Pics
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Tazz
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Wed Jun 28, 2006 10:41 pm
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superb images!!! some of the best I have seen in a while! You know just how to dance with the light and set a perfect compositions. Thanks for sharing your art and TR.
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Opus Wannabe
Joined: 04 Mar 2006 Posts: 3700 | TRs | Pics Location: The big rock candy mountain |
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Opus
Wannabe
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Thu Jun 29, 2006 8:12 am
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And the NWHikers Mt Baker blitz continues! I summited with Edd on this one. What an amazing trip! Perfect conditions all around, except for the heat at base camp. That snow cave was sure handy.
Great shots! I love the alpenglow images. I wished I'd stayed up for the sunset... And I wished I had the energy to haul up my SLR too!
The rest of the images and some panoramas are here.
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Tom Admin
Joined: 15 Dec 2001 Posts: 17851 | TRs | Pics
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Tom
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Thu Jun 29, 2006 8:15 am
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Awesome pics guys.
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l Member
Joined: 24 Nov 2005 Posts: 1030 | TRs | Pics
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l
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Thu Jun 29, 2006 8:19 am
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Edd, your particular blend of light and shadow is amazing.
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Tazz Member
Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 7902 | TRs | Pics
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Tazz
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Thu Jun 29, 2006 8:23 am
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Opus # 6 has me..... nice shot!
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Don Member
Joined: 25 Apr 2005 Posts: 2013 | TRs | Pics Location: Fairwood, WA |
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Don
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Thu Jun 29, 2006 8:39 am
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Sweet pics Edd!
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Guiran Member
Joined: 03 Mar 2004 Posts: 621 | TRs | Pics Location: University of Washington |
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Guiran
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Thu Jun 29, 2006 9:46 am
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Is there anyone on this board who wasn't on the C-D route last Sunday?
I was part of a party of seven that headed out from a small rock patch between the Hogsback and the camps at 7000' around 3:45 and summited around 8. Beautiful area, but reinforces my desire to stay off crowded routes!
One of many rope teams heading up to 7000' Alpinglow off Baker and Colfax Mt. Baker
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dicey custom title
Joined: 11 May 2004 Posts: 2870 | TRs | Pics Location: giving cornices a wider berth |
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dicey
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Thu Jun 29, 2006 9:50 am
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Guiran wrote: | Is there anyone on this board who wasn't on the C-D route last Sunday? |
I wasn't
Nice pics edd and opus!
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wildernessed viewbagger
Joined: 31 Oct 2004 Posts: 9275 | TRs | Pics Location: Wenatchee |
Spectacular ! I really need to be up there at some point.
Living in the Anthropocene
Living in the Anthropocene
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Spotly Member
Joined: 06 Jan 2004 Posts: 3723 | TRs | Pics Location: Spokane Valley |
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Spotly
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Thu Jun 29, 2006 10:26 am
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Wow! Those are some really great shots. It was pretty lonely up there last year about this same time-frame.
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ActionBetty Im a dirty hippie!
Joined: 06 Jul 2003 Posts: 4807 | TRs | Pics Location: kennewick, wa |
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ActionBetty
Im a dirty hippie!
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Thu Jun 29, 2006 11:01 am
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Beautiful photos.. you have a way with lighting there Edd.
oh one of these days I will climb that thar Mt.
"If you're not living good, you gotta travel wide"...Bob Marley
"If you're not living good, you gotta travel wide"...Bob Marley
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Brain Hates whining
Joined: 18 Jun 2003 Posts: 690 | TRs | Pics Location: Hillsboro, OR |
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Brain
Hates whining
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Thu Jun 29, 2006 2:01 pm
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I wasn't there and after reading the report and looking at the pictures I'm a little chapped about it. I wanted to do Baker this year, but just couldn't get the time...I already have it on the calendar for next June.
Thanks much for sharing!!!
"It appears my hypocrisy knows no bounds." Doc Holiday (Val Kilmer) in Tombstone
"It appears my hypocrisy knows no bounds." Doc Holiday (Val Kilmer) in Tombstone
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Quark Niece of Alvy Moore
Joined: 15 May 2003 Posts: 14152 | TRs | Pics
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Quark
Niece of Alvy Moore
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Thu Jun 29, 2006 2:22 pm
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Edd, "summit" is such a beautiful photo - you could pick up chicks in a bar with it.
You should carry it with you at all times.
"...Other than that, the post was more or less accurate."
Bernardo, NW Hikers' Bureau Chief of Reporting
"...Other than that, the post was more or less accurate."
Bernardo, NW Hikers' Bureau Chief of Reporting
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Edd Member
Joined: 23 Jun 2003 Posts: 296 | TRs | Pics
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Edd
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Thu Jun 29, 2006 5:27 pm
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Quark wrote: | Edd, "summit" is such a beautiful photo - you could pick up chicks in a bar with it.
You should carry it with you at all times. |
Yeah, I wish it were that easy . Thanks Quark and everyone else.
Yes it was pretty crowded, but I think it has alot to do with timing, and the difficulty (or lack of), that makes some routes so popular at times. Last year on the Emmons we were the only ones camped on the flat, and the only ones that attempted before nearly being blown off the mountain. Everyone else had either the good sense, or no desire to attempt in those conditions. Five days later I tried again and there were headlamps from camp to the schrund. I summited, but probly not one of my favorite trips from last year, but an accomplishment if nothing else. I had always wanted to do Rainier and Baker since I was a kid, and my lack of experience has kept me up till now anyways, on the easier routes. I think for me they were both great experiences though, the attempts as well as the summits.
Here is a pic of everyone headed up the Roman wall, as we were nearly down. Glad for an early start.
busy wall
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