Forum Index > Trail Talk > Climber falls near Colchuck Lake
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Tall Hiker Man
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PostMon Jun 15, 2009 6:49 pm 
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Backpacker Joe
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PostMon Jun 15, 2009 7:53 pm 
Darn it. Get well soon.

"If destruction be our lot we must ourselves be its author and finisher. As a nation of freemen we must live through all time or die by suicide." — Abraham Lincoln
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Schroder
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PostMon Jun 15, 2009 8:07 pm 
I never heard of a climbing rope being cut by rockfall before. I'm anxious to hear more details about this incident.

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CRoberts
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PostMon Jun 15, 2009 8:22 pm 
First of all, hope the climber is okay! up.gif Secondly, either his rope was seriously worn out, or theres some really really sharp edges where the climber was routing..... huh.gif I've been using my rope on sport routes for 2 years constantly and it's barely showing abrasion on the outer sheath.

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obvious gully
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PostMon Jun 15, 2009 8:23 pm 
I was in the area on Sunday. We had camped at Colchuck Lake, and ascended Colchuck and West Dragontail via Colchuck Col. I was not aware of any incident at the time, but I did see 2 roped climbers ascending a face on Dragontail immediately below the terminus of the Colchuck Glacier. I have a picture of those two on the rock face, I hope it wasn't them. frown.gif

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HitTheTrail
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PostMon Jun 15, 2009 9:18 pm 
A father and young teenage son died on that same route two years ago the day after my daughter and I had just ascended Aasgard. I think about the family each time I go back. I hope this gives people a little more respect for the area and activity in general. If it can prevent one incident it will be worth it.

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Yana
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PostMon Jun 15, 2009 9:32 pm 
Schroder wrote:
I never heard of a climbing rope being cut by rockfall before. I'm anxious to hear more details about this incident.
huh.gif Uh... seriously?
Quote:
either his rope was seriously worn out, or theres some really really sharp edges where the climber was routing
Rocks don't have to be particularly sharp (or even big) to cut through your rope if they fall on it. I hope the climber makes a full recovery. That's quite a slide he took.

PLAY SAFE! SKI ONLY IN CLOCKWISE DIRECTION! LET'S ALL HAVE FUN TOGETHER!
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Tazz
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PostMon Jun 15, 2009 9:33 pm 
hitthetrail. It was not the same climb. the one from 2 yrs ago was in the main standard route. this one was on a more technical route. They were roped up. the main route does not require rope at all. yes rock fall can cut a rope in a heart beat!

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Schroder
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PostMon Jun 15, 2009 9:46 pm 
Yana wrote:
Schroder wrote:
I never heard of a climbing rope being cut by rockfall before. I'm anxious to hear more details about this incident.
huh.gif Uh... seriously?
Quote:
either his rope was seriously worn out, or theres some really really sharp edges where the climber was routing
Rocks don't have to be particularly sharp (or even big) to cut through your rope if they fall on it. I hope the climber makes a full recovery. That's quite a slide he took.
Yes, seriously. Do you have any incidents you particularly know where this happened? I once participated in testing where ropes were tensioned and exposed to everything from sharp corners to knives to see at what point they would separate and it was surprising how much abuse they would take. This was also followed up at the MSR test facility with measuring equipment. The anecdote of touching a sharp knife to a tensioned rope and having it shear away is Hollywood fantasy. I think there's a lot more to this story and thankfully it sounds like the injuries were not critical.

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Yana
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PostMon Jun 15, 2009 9:55 pm 
Schroder, I have read MANY a trip reports where this has happened. Also, there was this (dicey's pic), which happened on a trip I was on.
Bonanza rope damage
Bonanza rope damage
We didn't even see it happen, the rock was probably not very large as I don't recall any of us knocking off anything bigger than fist sized rocks. Also, I doubt the rope was under tension when it happened, either.

PLAY SAFE! SKI ONLY IN CLOCKWISE DIRECTION! LET'S ALL HAVE FUN TOGETHER!
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Schroder
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PostMon Jun 15, 2009 10:02 pm 
The sheath can cut open fairly easily - it's happened on many ropes I've had. To break all the individual braided strands inside and have complete separation takes a lot of force and to have them all cut by rocks is hard to imagine & I've tried purposely in the testing I mentioned. This is not like the forces exerted taking a fall on a rope.

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Tazz
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PostMon Jun 15, 2009 10:18 pm 
From what I hear this was Boulder/rock fall not just small rock fall! A falling 200 lbs boulder will cut a rope like butter! hell a falling 50lbs boulder will cut a rope if in the right spot!

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obvious gully
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PostMon Jun 15, 2009 11:03 pm 
Here's a photo of the two climbers I saw. They are towards the center of the image. Again, I don't know that these were the climbers involved in the incident, but they were the only roped climbers I saw in the area that day.

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Tazz
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PostMon Jun 15, 2009 11:14 pm 
OG, (i believe) those are the two who helped rescue the fallen climber. the fallen climber was on Colchuck. many great rock routes on Colchuck other than the standard route. this shot is of dragontail. looks like they are beginning serpentine arete. (I could be wrong) Before anyone gets their panties in a bunch. The climbers are well seasoned and solid climbers. It was a rock slide/fall that took him out. So schroder, ( I respect your input, always do from you) a cut rope due to a rock slide/fall is not out of the question. the point is...it can happen to anyone no matter how well seasoned you are!

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Tom
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PostMon Jun 15, 2009 11:20 pm 
ditto.gif

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