[Jeff R]

Always wanting to ascend this peak since the first time I saw it driving hi-way 20 and reading about it in the Beckey guide, I finally got my chance. Click on photos for more... Knowing that is very popular climb and wanting to avoid the crowds, Mesahchie Mark and myself left Friday evening in order to car camp by the Blue lake trail head that night. 'We will get up super early and hike the trail by head lamp'! We exclaimed. Well that wasn't really the case but by 7:30 we were on the trail leaving behind us some other teams gearing up at the parking lot. It was shaping up to be a perfect day as we hurried up the trail seeing golden larchs and fulfilling the tradional fall larch trip thats endeared by all outdoors folk.

2 labels

Golden larch and sunrise.

We soon found the boot path that takes you uphill to granite land and ascended the loose gully to the notch separating Liberty bell and Concord tower. There was still no one around and Mark and myself started to wonder if we were in the right notch, so much we started to descend until we ran into the only other team we would see during the day. They told us that indeed we were in the right area and offered us a photocopy of the peak and route. Much thanks! They proceeded to flash a route next to the South West gully and were never to be seen again. Instead of going back up to the notch and traversing the ledge to the first pitch, we just scrambled directly up to it and started climbing.

4 labels

Gully and rib up to pitch 1.

Still no one around! Man was this a fun climb on great rock without being rushed by other parties and the rock was just eating up pieces of pro. The second pitch featured a neat chimney to a great belay ledge where Mark and I hung out and soaked in the experience.

1 label

Fun chimney.

3 labels

Above chimney.

The third pitch went up these cracks and up to a overhang where the route goes to either side but we went to the right using some fixed pitons with long runners.

3 labels

Up to the over hang.

1 label

Looking down before the overhang traverse.

After this last pitch we unroped and scrambled along big boulders to this boulder problem-

1 label

Note the absence of lichen where it is climbed.

On top we enjoyed our accomplishment and watched climbers on S. early winters spire and talked about finishing the day with the 2 pitch climb on Concord.

2 labels

Mark with Golden horn in the back ground.

One rap delivered us to the base of the slabby boulder and then down climbing brought us to the second rap station which was two bolts above a ledge down to the third which has slings around a tree. This last one brought us to the area above the notch which we proceeded to scamper down into the gully and back to the trail. It was about 4:00 by then and chances of another climb quickly dwindled but we were plenty satisfied with just doing the Liberty bell.

Don't look down!

What a great day and possibly the last hurrah of fall. This place definitely warrants a return for the other spires, towers and visit to the lake!

2 labels

Contrast.

[Tazz]

nice work guys!

[Mesahchie Mark]

Thanks for the write up, Jeff. You did a fine job leading - again! It still seems strange that we had the route all to ourselves. Great climb, especially for this late in the season. The rock is super grippy (so say my knuckles), and the views were awesome. The N. Cascades rock! I'm still kicking myself for forgetting my camera (again).

[Tazz]

I love the shot of Mark on the summit. Shame on you Mark for forgetting your camera!

[ActionBetty]

You guys rock, great pics