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Phil
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Phil
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PostMon Oct 16, 2006 9:18 pm 
I got a rare chance for an overnight hike (haven't backpacked in 10 years), headed to the Elwha because 1) it was the only Olympics river I had not visited since childhood, 2) N Fk Skokomish was closed, 3) looked good from Shacknasty's photos, and 4) wanted to see some elk and fall colors. Had some doubts because of rain forecast but can't let that stop you. Caught an 11:30am Edmonds ferry on Saturday 10/14, got pass in Port Angeles wilderness center, and reached trailhead just after 2pm. Trail passes through smallish timber (long history of fires in the area) contouring slope far above the Elwha. Between Michael's cabin and Lillian river one can spot trees blazed by the bumbling Press party at turn of century. Actually, it appears to me that later travelers took large chunks out of trees that the Press group had blazed relatively discretely. The large blazes are unmistakeable:
blazed tree
blazed tree
The original blazes are on the trail side of the trees, and consist of 3 much-healed marks in a vertical line beginning about 5' up. Anyhow, the trail to Mary Falls camp area consists of long sections switching between level, then long slopes up, then long slopes down, as it crosses the hillside far above the Elwha. Trees are moderate in size, the undergrowth is minimal. Not the loveliest forest I've walked through, but after musty Lillian camp it became more lush. I imagine this sort of thing might grow on you if you stay too long in Lillian camp:
Fungus
Fungus
I arrive at a nice riverside camp about 10 miles in, just before Mary Falls, around 5pm. Had a campfire and enjoyed dusk. It was a cold night in my hammock but I was dry in spite of showers. Sunday I moved quickly back downtrail, enjoying the showers blowing down the valley. Took more time to wander around the old homestead flats:
Goblin gates
Goblin gates
Elwha river
Elwha river
Elwha colors
Elwha colors
Goblin gates, the old cabins, the broad river flats of Geyser Valley are the thing to see in the first 10 miles of the river. Otherwise, I have to say that the trail is otherwise largely an avenue to places farther in. I had hoped for more time or more speed that would have taken me as far as Press Valley, or even up and over Dodger point, but that's for another time.

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l
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l
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PostMon Oct 16, 2006 9:42 pm 
Phil, I agree, the first eight miles of the Elwha Trail are pretty nondescript. From Mary's Falls through Press Valley to Elwha Basin is much more inviting. I've found four different blazes from the Press Expedition but they are all about 3 feet off the ground. Each blaze consists of three closely-spaced horizontal cuts on a Douglas fir that would have been fairly small back in 1890. I'm guessing it was easier to whack into the thinner bark of a young tree than a mature one. Nice shots from Geyser Valley, especially the one over toward Anderson Ranch of the golden maples.

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Quark
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PostMon Oct 16, 2006 9:44 pm 
Phil, are there a lot of blazed trees still standing? Are any of them left with the original, smaller blazes? From the looks of the placement of the blazes of on the tree in the photos, perhaps the original blazes were that big, - usually the rectagle cuts of blazes are a lot closer together. Unless of course, since the forest there is so dense and dark (how'd you get such a clear photo, by the way?), they needed some obvious wierd blaze to make it obvious and they were'nt big, but placed far apart to make a large patch of blaze per tree. Or perhaps only once every other blaze tree or so, a larger blaze was hacked in for added reassurance...? Anyway, sorry for the ramble, but I get a bang out of blazes. Very nice photos. Thanks for the TR.

"...Other than that, the post was more or less accurate." Bernardo, NW Hikers' Bureau Chief of Reporting
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Phil
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PostTue Oct 17, 2006 8:37 am 
Thanks for pic compliments. On the blazes, I saw a couple in the section of trail approaching Lillian river, as noted by Wood, and aside from the big squares cut from the trees, it was difficult to make out the "3 vertical blazes" he described. In fact, at times it took some imagination to 'see' 3 vertical. I think you're both probably correct in that the Press party most likely made blazes of various forms, not just vertical 3, as suggested. On my shady pic, didnt do anything special that I recall. finally figured out that I should turn the flash off. I have an old camera, somehow it does better in shady spots than most anywhere else. any sun/sky in a picture overexposes; very frustrating when you want that shot of a distant peak. Anyhow, this thing is a joke ... its about the size of a baby's head and makes a "ker-plunk-sproing" sound when you take a pic.

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l
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l
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PostTue Oct 17, 2006 10:37 am 
Phil wrote:
Anyhow, this thing is a joke ... its about the size of a baby's head and makes a "ker-plunk-sproing" sound when you take a pic.
embarassedlaugh.gif I know what you mean. My camera's lens ring is currently held together with duct tape and is starting to make weird noises, too. I'd like to buy some real equipment - my mind is willing but the wallet is weak. I hate to nitpick but in Wood's book the blazes are described as 'three ax cuts, one above the other'. I'm no brain surgeon but I'm pretty sure that would make them horizontal, not vertical.

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Phil
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Phil
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PostTue Oct 17, 2006 10:02 pm 
When I say vertical I'm talking about 3 blazes in a row, going up the tree, first about 5', next 7', next about 9'. Here's a pic, though you can barely make out anything with all the nooks and crannies. Not even sure if this is the blazes Wood mentioned but they were on the tree with the more pronounced squares cut out pictured in prior post.
100 year old blazes?
100 year old blazes?

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peteK
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PostWed Oct 18, 2006 2:58 pm 
Not sure if you know, but that bear tooth/paw fungus is really quite tasty sauteed despite looking weird. Tried some last year, and a nice thing is that it's pretty much impossible to misidentify with anything poisonous. Just leave some behind so it can perpetuate.

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Phil
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PostWed Oct 18, 2006 7:48 pm 
peteK wrote:
Not sure if you know, but that bear tooth/paw fungus is really quite tasty sauteed despite looking weird. Tried some last year, and a nice thing is that it's pretty much impossible to misidentify with anything poisonous. Just leave some behind so it can perpetuate.
Dang, a missed opportunity. You can bet next time I'll bring that big crusty thing home and wolf it down in fromt of shocked onlookers. Thanks for the tip.

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l
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PostFri Oct 20, 2006 8:19 pm 
Here's a photo of one of the Press Expedition blazes along the Elwha Trail. It's located approximately .4 miles past the Long Ridge Trail intersection. The blaze is cut into a douglas-fir some 3' in diameter and about as high off the ground. I've seen two more just like this one a little farther down the trail.
k10-20-06 006
k10-20-06 006

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Phil
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PostSat Oct 21, 2006 8:26 pm 
Shack that is a cool pic and so much more obviously an old blaze than what I saw!

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summithound
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summithound
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PostWed Oct 25, 2006 4:24 pm 
Phil, How are the road conditions leading to the trailhead? Would it be passable to a low-clearance passenger vehicle? We have an option of either bringing our Ford F250 or Chrysler 300M. Thanks!

Pain is just weakness leaving the body.
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Phil
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PostWed Oct 25, 2006 7:44 pm 
My 1994 ford escort wagon made it. no issues on road.

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