Forum Index > Trip Reports > Bonanza Peak Summit (7/11/2011)
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Gimpilator
infinity/21M



Joined: 12 Oct 2006
Posts: 1684 | TRs | Pics
Location: Edmonds, WA
Gimpilator
infinity/21M
PostWed Jul 13, 2011 4:20 pm 
We received a warm welcome from Dicey and fwb upon our arrival in Holden. They had just finished a sketchy climb of Copper Peak... Thanks Craig, for the write-up! Now I don't have to and I can study for Shuksan. smile.gif Memorable Moments: 1) finding a birds nest next to the trail 2) clouds of mosquitos at Holden Lake 3) getting hit on the helmet by a falling rock 4) 9 pitches of mixed climbing on snow and rock 5) 12 rappells including one double rope 6) getting a bit off track on the Mary Green Glacier in the dark
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA
OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERA

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Redwic
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Joined: 23 Feb 2009
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Location: Going to the Prom(inence)
Redwic
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PostWed Jul 13, 2011 4:21 pm 
We had snow from within the final 1/4-mile to Holden Lake and beyond. We followed a snowy ridge from Holden Pass up to the Mary Green Glacier. The waterfall section was basically non-existent. The glacier crevasses were all snow-covered. However... ... the bergschrund was nearly completely open (requiring a short step of faith). Also, the final 900' vertical gain was more trivial than normal. All of the gullies for the standard route had a lot of snow still in them, although some places were thin and icy. The conditions were more sketchy than some summiters had encountered the previous week; we caught the transition phase of conditions. Only the steep rock sections were snow-free. This forced us to basically use the standard rappel route as the ascent route. We had to rock climb & belay nearly the entire final 900' vertical gain to the summit, which was very time-consuming. The mixture of snow, massive amounts of steep 5th-Class rock climbing, some icy sections, and some wet sections was more than any of us expected or wanted, but we were left with few choices. Even our friend Dave, who is an expert rock climber, had his doubts and concerns, but as he said he wouldn't have continued if he thought it was beyond our limits. But we made it to the summit, and made it safely. After the infamous "25' Class 4 vertical rock" section we each ascended the knife-edge ridge unroped. The final short, steep snow climb to the summit was exposed but (slowly) manageable. The summit, itself, was partically melted-out... at least enough that we could find the summit register. The register box is in great shape, but there was only one piece of paper in it. After several photos and a short summit video, I started to cry. I think I must have realized that this was the most technically difficult thing I would have to do before finishing the Washington County Highpoints, and now with only Big Horn and Mount Baker remaining that goal is definitely within reach. (It's good to get Mount Olympus and Bonanza Peak finally out of the way, during this past week's time!) We descended most of the same way we ascended. Here are some interesting statistics, which might help others picture in their minds just what it took to accomplish this summit: -> Nine roped rock climbs/belays for the ascent. -> 12 rappels for the descent. -> 8h30m to reach the summit from our camp at Holden Pass. Six of those hours were on the final 900' vertical feet. -> 15 minutes at the summit. -> 9h30m to reach our camp at Holden Pass from the summit. Seven of those hours were spent rappelling down to near the bergschrund. -> The rappel and snow thumb sections had daylight. Crossing the Mary Green Glacier had some daylight, some after-dusk light. -> 18h15m total round trip. -> The weather gods must have been smiling on us, as the big storm moved into the area after we returned to camp. It rained and hailed all night, and into the early morning. Here is my own video of the trip:
(Special "Hello" To Dicey and fwb2, our Be-Holden NWHers)

60 pounds lighter but not 60 points brighter.
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beaudaddy
Coast To Cascades



Joined: 25 Feb 2010
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Location: Tulalip, WA
beaudaddy
Coast To Cascades
PostWed Jul 13, 2011 4:24 pm 
Awesome you guys!!! I love the videos and the photos are amazing! smile.gif

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dicey
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Joined: 11 May 2004
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Location: giving cornices a wider berth
dicey
custom title
PostWed Jul 13, 2011 4:33 pm 
Nice job! That is a tough climb, even more so to have to deal with snow on the steep bits!

I'm not always sure I like being older but being less stupid has advantages. http://www.flickr.com/photos/32121172@N00/sets/
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silence
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silence
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PostWed Jul 13, 2011 4:56 pm 
i think the videos do fine .. congrats on a tuff one!

PHOTOS FILMS Keep a good head and always carry a light bulb. – Bob Dylan
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honey badger
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Joined: 03 Jul 2007
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Location: Mukilteo
honey badger
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PostWed Jul 13, 2011 5:29 pm 
Congrats on a toughy. Dicey had expressed she wasn't keen on me doing it solo. Now I know why. Amazing how these between season trips have some extra challenges. Did you find my slip of paper in a baggy on the summit and add to the box? Glad the digging helped melt off the summit.

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Tom_Sjolseth
Born Yesterday



Joined: 30 May 2007
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Tom_Sjolseth
Born Yesterday
PostWed Jul 13, 2011 7:49 pm 
Nice work, guys. Lots of snow still up there.

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Barefoot Jake
Professional Bum



Joined: 05 Sep 2010
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Barefoot Jake
Professional Bum
PostWed Jul 13, 2011 8:14 pm 
One dude was wearing the GoPro. Where is that footage? confused.gif

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Don
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Joined: 25 Apr 2005
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Location: Fairwood, WA
Don
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PostWed Jul 13, 2011 9:28 pm 
Ah, the mountain I dropped my camera down - at the very begining of the climb! Fond memories of Bonanza in much drier conditions. The joke is that soon enough rock will be pulled/crumble from the mountain that Stuart will replace it as highest non-volcanic peak, and there will be no further reason to climb it! Congratulations on a fine and challenging summit in a most prestine area. I can't imagine your approach in all that snow! Don

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Magellan
Brutally Handsome



Joined: 26 Jul 2006
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Magellan
Brutally Handsome
PostWed Jul 13, 2011 10:28 pm 
Wow, it was worse than I imagined. up.gif up.gif I'm glad you climbed it so I don't have to.

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veronika
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veronika
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PostWed Jul 13, 2011 10:46 pm 
up.gif up.gif up.gif Double WoW! Nice footage. Congrats!

Take risks not to escape life, but to prevent life from escaping I may not have anyone rocking my world right now but, I don't have anyone messing it up either.
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Redwic
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Joined: 23 Feb 2009
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Redwic
Unlisted Free Agent
PostWed Jul 13, 2011 11:26 pm 
Magellan wrote:
Wow, it was worse than I imagined. up.gif up.gif I'm glad you climbed it so I don't have to.
You are more than welcome to live vicariously through our mountaineering exploits. winksmile.gif

60 pounds lighter but not 60 points brighter.
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popzeus
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Joined: 18 Apr 2011
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Location: Kenmore, WA
popzeus
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PostWed Jul 13, 2011 11:36 pm 
Man, you guys are having an awesome year. I love, love, love, watching these trip report videos. Keep up the good work!

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puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks



Joined: 13 Feb 2007
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puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks
PostWed Jul 13, 2011 11:44 pm 
You are sure getting around this year!

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Matt
Tea, Earl Grey, Hot



Joined: 30 Jan 2007
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Matt
Tea, Earl Grey, Hot
PostThu Jul 14, 2011 8:08 am 
Looks nasty with the combination of snow and rock. Did you have video cameras on your helmets the whole time?

“As beacons mountains burned at evening.” J.R.R. Tolkien
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