[dacker]

Wow, Taehee had 4 days off in a row. We were signed up to instruct at the Everett Mountaineers basic class “rock 2” field trip on the weekend, but we also had Thursday and Friday available, so we decided to go down early and get our own climbing fix, since instructors get to do precious little actual climbing at field trips. For those not familiar with Icicle Canyon, it is just southwest of Leavenworth, and one of three major rock climbing destinations close to that Bavarian theme park. We arrived around 10:30 Thursday morning and headed to Mountaineers Buttress (sometimes called Mountaineers Dome), to do a few practice runs setting and cleaning pro before tackling one of the canyon’s classic climbs on Friday.

Mountaineers Buttress from the road

Mountaineers Buttress has two major crack routes on it, with the oh-so-clever names of Left Crack (5.6) and Right Crack (5.2). The actual cracks are on the middle section of the buttress and can be linked with unnamed climbs on the lower and upper sections to make 3-pitch climbs of each of them. That is what we did. The pitches are fairly short, not very tough, and the commitment level is low, as easy escape from the route is possible from any of the belay ledges. We strung together two 3-pitch routes and swung leads. I started the first climb from the bottom, Taehee led the Right Crack in the middle, and I did the top pitch. Then we ate lunch and started all over again at the bottom, from a different location, where Taehee led the first pitch, then I got to lead Left Crack, and she finished the top, where the two routes merged about halfway up. Good practice and lots of fun. Marginal weather. Here are a few pictures of Taehee on the routes. I always had the camera, so there are no pictures of me (no great loss!), and since I had to shoot the pics with one hand while belaying with the other, most of these aren’t likely to be featured in the pages of Climbing Magazine, but no one likes a TR without pictures, so here we go:

Taehee leading Right Crack

Right Crack

Right Crack

Taehee leading on lower Mountaineers Buttress

Lower Mountaineers Buttress

Taehee following on Left Crack

Taehee topping out on Left Crack

On Friday we headed for Icicle Buttress to climb the R&D Route, one of the popular Icicle Canyon classics, rated at 5.6 and 4 pitches in length. That sounds like not a lot more than we did the day before to warm up, but the pitches are much longer than those on Mountaineers Buttress. They are also much more exposed and the entire route is very commiting since there is no way to escape until you top out except to rappell back down the route, which is very time-consuming and requires the sacrifice of some gear for the anchors.

R&D Route from the Road

Again, we swung leads with me starting. There is a bolted 5.7 friction slab called Cocaine Connection right next to the R&D and starting a little ways below it, so many parties begin the R&D Route by climbing the first few bolts of that route until able to merge onto the R&D just above its base. This is what we did. It makes for a longer and slightly more challenging first pitch, especially since the first bolt is about 20 very exposed feet up the slab! Eventually, I found a suitable belay ledge and Taehee followed the pitch, quickly cleaning the pro I had set as she climbed. Then she took over the lead for the second pitch, and I got to take a quick butt-shot before she disappeared out of sight:

Taehee leading 2nd pitch of R&D Route

The third pitch is generally considered the crux pitch since it involves a tricky squeeze chimney with difficult protection. When we climb together, we usually take one pack which is carried by the second since the leader has to deal with the rack of gear. I was very glad to have led this one since I don’t think I could have gotten up that chimney with a pack on my back, but Taehee had no problem with it and soon joined me at the third belay:

Taehee topping out on crux chimney, 3rd pitch of R&D Route

The fourth and last pitch is the longest and includes the most serious and exposed crack climbing on the route. It was Taehee’s lead, and again, I got a couple quick butt-shots fired off before she disappeared onto the upper part of the pitch, not visible from my belay station:

Taehee leading 4th pitch of R&D Route

4th pitch of R&D Route

We have a 60 meter rope, and there were only a few feet left by the time she reached the top of the climb. It was a little touch-and-go for awhile, not knowing if she would make it before the rope ran out. By the time I joined her at the top, a light rain was beginning to fall. We somehow missed the trail on our walk-off, and had a very unpleasant brush-bash getting down the back side of Icicle Buttress, but we were very relieved to have finished the climb before the rain arrived.

[Type E]

I was curious of the conditions of the Icicle Creek Rd. You wouldn't happen to know how far one could drive before being stopped by snow?

[Tazz]

I envy you two!! thanks for the report!! must get in there soon!!

[dacker]

Type E: We went no further than Bridge Creek CG, but there was no snow in sight. Looking up the south side of the canyon, the snow line looked to be several hundred, maybe as much as 1000, feet up. Tazz: But next weekend, you get to have all the fun!

[Andrew]

Wow, you two climbed your hearts out! It was nice to meet you Richard, as brief as it was.

[Yet]

I love the photo of Taehee "topping out on Left Crack." Look at that smile. Pure joy! Plus, she makes all that climbing look sooooo easy. Sounds like you two had good times.

[GrizzDaddy]

Nice pictures and report Dacker . I'm going to be at Mountaineers Buttress this Saturday for the Alpine Scrambling course rock trip #1. Your pictures have me excited.. Looking forward to the trip.