[Tom]

I had this peak on my list of early season scrambles thanks to John R. who emailed me the route description last year and suggested I might want to shoot a panorama from up top. To escape the hot weather I decided to hike in to Lake Stuart on Saturday evening, hammock at the lake, and climb the peak in the morning (Point 6960' south of Lake Stuart). This turned out to be a good option as the trail was nice and cool by 7 PM when I arrived at the trailhead. By sunset I was at Lake Stuart and setting up my hammock. The lake is snow free and there were only minor patches of snow covering the trail before reaching the lake. There were a few annoying bugs at spots along the trail (particularly near the marshes), but nothing to complain about at the lake. I had planned to get to bed early but didn't have much success as I was having too much fun taking night exposures with my new camera. During the night I awoke twice to the loud thunder of avalanches coming down Mt. Stuart. Quite impressive sounding and far more enjoyable than the cold chill that interrupted my sleep - I neglected to bring enough insulation for my hammock and the 55 degree night felt like 35 degrees. In the morning I evaluated the route up from the lake and had quite a bit of trepidation. There are two steep couloirs that can be seen from Lake Stuart (see MounTAIN Woman's pic for reference). Both of them apparently go, but the right (steeper looking) couloir is reportedly easier. I summoned up my courage and decided to attempt the right couloir, telling myself that I would turn around if I felt the least bit uneasy on the approach. I traversed around west end of Lake Stuart and was able to find a footlog to cross the inlet stream. Upon reaching the bottom of the couloir the route didn't look nearly as steep as it does from the lake. The snow had the perfect consistency for kicking steps, and with each "cautious toe bang" I gained more confidence. I had brought along crampons but I only needed my ice axe. 2 hours after leaving Lake Stuart I reached the jagged ridge top and scrambled my way to the summit block and impressive "amphitheater views" of the Stuart Range, Jack Ridge, and the peaks to the north. Lighting wasn't the best for taking a panorama, but I shot a few and hopefully one of them will turn out. Before heading down I signed my name in the film cannister registry (I was only the second party to do so since John R. last May). As I headed down I was feeling quite comfortable with the plunge step technique I was using to descend the couloir. Upon hitting a steeper section of the couloir where I remembered the snow was somewhat icy on the way up, I took a little extra care - apparently not enough as I soon found myself accelerating down the 45 degree slope at alarming speed. I got into textbook self arrest mode but the angle of the slope was unforgiving - I must have slid about 100' before coming to a stop. As I got up, I remember looking at my scraped fingers and left arm, feeling rather annoyed about the snow burn and scrapes that I saw. Then I looked at my right arm. Ugh! The technique I had used to self arrest combined with the long slide had resulted in peeling off a layer of skin extending from the middle of my forearm to behind my elbow. Fortunately I had enough gauze pad and tape to cover things up, but needless to say I will never venture onto a steep snow slope in a short sleeve shirt again. Special thanks to the ladies at the Leavenworth ranger station who did a superb job of dressing my wound for the long ride home.

[Dean]

A great read Tom. I can't wait to see your pics of this trip. Ouch on the snow burns but hey, some guys will go to great lengths to get those "cute" ranger ladies to patch them up. Is that blonde one still there?

[Backpacker Joe]

I agree, great report. Tom, you're gonna kill yourself on us here. You should have put out an invite. You'd have gotten some of us to go with ya. Hope you're feeling better now. TB

[MounTAIN Woman]

Did you happen to find a pair of Lifelink ski poles in or near Stuart Lake?

[Tom]

MounTAIN Woman, nope didn't see any poles - heard about the Stuart Lake episode and was glad that Jim and Jeff's entries in the Mountaineer Peak registry weren't their last (and thankfully neither was mine ). Dean, it may be a while before I have my pictures up. Here's the obligatory Mountaineer Creek bridge shot, and one of Mt Stuart...

[Newt]

Nice image Tom. I think you should add your snow comments to the thread dealing with whimpin' out because of snow. Just as a heads up to folks. Hope you heal fast and well. NN

[Newt]

Really nice. I'm jealous. Glad the camera suvived too. NN

[Dean]

Great picture of Stuart. That is a gem. I'm looking forward to the rest of the beauties I know you took.

[Larry]

Tom, GREAT shot of Mountaineer Creek. Is that the Ten Dee you used?

[Backpacker Joe]

Ole Tom can take pics, that's for sure. How can Stuart be so snow free, and Colchuck still be frozen and snow covered??? They are so close to eachother. Hmmmmmmmm. TB

[RandyB]

[Tom]

[Larry]

My gawd, Tom! Really? I figured maybe 3 or 4 pounds with a couple of lenses and the other accessories that are usually taken. But 5 pounds...wow, getting up there. Heck, my medium format Yashica weighs only 3 1/2 pounds soaking wet! Yeesh...I guess the Ten Dee must weigh more than the D60 then....

[Tom]

Camera is 1.7 lbs (same as D60) 28-135 lens is 1.2 lb (with 1.6 crop => 45-216 mm FOV equivalent) 17-40 lens is 1.2 lb (with 1.6 crop => 27-64 mm FOV equivalent) Bag is 0.8 lb And then you add batteries and accessories... It all adds up.

[Larry]