[Phil]

Wonder Mt. wilderness is that small triangle on the southeast corner of Olympic National park, accessed via roads to South Fork Skokomish.  In the past I've followed directions in the Olympic Mountain Rescue Climber's Guide to ascend the peaks.  This time my goal was Wonder lake #1 just inside the park boundary.

The Climber's Guide route begins on the Upper South Fork trail and suggests heading uphill after 1.5 miles.  Thankfully this route is marked with pink ribbons that were obvious from the main trail.  I found them between a stream and the crossing to the west side of the Skokomish.  The flags proceed directly up the slope on a steep grade.  The underbrush was less of a problem than I had expected; there were brushy spots but overall not too bad.  For brief moments it was possible to follow a distinct boot/hoof path.  However, I lost the tape around the 2200' point but struggled upward following the path of least resistance.  Near the saddle to the NW of peak 4666 I found flags again and to my surprise blazed trees.  I descended the saddle to Wonder #1 after about 2 hours up from the trail.

The lake is spectacular.  Needless to say no one else was there.  Flies and mosquitoes thickened considerably but intermittent breezes cleared them out.  The lake is on a bench overlooking the wilderness, Sawtooth ridge, and portions of the North Fork Skokomish.  Paths are worn around the lake and lead to a sizable flat campsite on the N side of the lake, with the above-mentioned vistas.  Also on this side the lakebed drops off steeply from a rocky shore, allowing for swimming, diving.  Blueberry bush meadows surround the lake.

After a swim, a rest, and pictures, I set off to explore paths off the bench.  Broken way trails appeared to descend steeply into the basin to the other Wonder Lakes, but I had it in mind to follow Wonder ridge north.  So I ascended up to the ridge above Wonder #1 and proceeded up to Peak 4851.  I was able to follow the ridge crest with little trouble though it was slow going as one must weave through large tree trunks.  At one point on the ridge are old campfires.  From 4851 and the ascending ridge are panoramic views encompassing the Wonder Mt. Wilderness, the S and N Skokomish basins, Six Ridge, and many peaks beyond including Olympus.  From here I also had a good perspective on the other two Wonder lakes.  They rest in what appeared to be a green boggy basin which I suspect would make for poor camping, but who knows?  Above this basin to the north appeared to be the cleft in 5 ridge that is mentioned in the Climber's Guide as the route to continue along the ridge north to Sundown pass area.  I briefly entertained the idea of
following this path in an effort to make a loop by joining with the Sundown pass trail, but recognized that given the lack of a path in that region I might still be floundering in brush at sunset.  Also, from 4851, higher  routes were not clear to me, and I was bushed, so decided to retrace my steps.

I followed the ridge south from 4851 down to the blazed and flagged trail at the saddle and further.  It was easier to follow the flags on the descent.  However, this was the most punishing portion of the trip.  I found it much more difficult and straining to descend without trail than it had been to ascend.  Also, with the increasing heat of the afternoon I was accompanied but a hoard of buzzing horseflies.  Highly recommended trip!  Resting or camping at Wonder #1 is worth the trouble it takes to get there.