[Edd]

Well, first attempt at a TR. Been viewing this post since April of this year, but hav'nt participated much. Tagged along with dayhike Mike a few times this summer, and last week with Tom and learned alot from both, this being my first summer in the Cascades. So with the weather outlook for the weekend I thought this would be a good time to try something by myself. Tom suggested that I might try Kaleetan sometime. My plan was to first try Kaleetan, see how I felt, and the time frame I had left to work with. Time permiting I would cross Malakwa pass, see if I could find a route up Roosevelt that would enable me to summit then drop down to the ridge that leads to Gem lake, cross the outlet then drop down to snow lake and exit the Snow lake trailhead. Then hopefully find a ride back to the Denny creek trailhead (or close) to my truck. Map and compass in pocket, headlamp on head, I was on the trail up Denny creek by 5:30am. This being my first attempt at anything like this I figured I needed all the time I could get. The first part of the trip was pretty uneventfull, it was dark, quiet and peacefull. It finally started to get light somewhere between Snowshoe falls and Hemlock pass. As the sun began to rise I could see all the fall colors and appreciated the beauty of it while continuing on. The first obstacle I ran into was at the outlet to Malakwa Lake. As I started across the logs a dog ran at me fangs barred barking like there was no tommorow. When the owner arrived I thought everything would be ok. Wrong. After I got across he came at me again apparently meaning business. After the dust settled I was unscathed, but what bothered me about the whole thing was, not so much that the dog came after me, stuff happens, but the look the owner gave me, pretty much like it was my fault for being there, causing her and her dog an inconviencence. I then traversed both lower and upper Melakwa heading towards Melakwa pass, seeing campers along the lake just begining to stir. By now I could see the peak of Kaleetan, the sun just begining to hit it. I tried to stay on the talus as much as I could so I could visually see where I was going, staying out of the trees in the center of the gully heading up to the pass. I had a map which helped some, but I am still just learning how to read and use them to navigate. The 75 scrambles book said to stay left(NW) after the last stand of trees before the pass untill you come to the summit ridge. After passing what I thought was the last stand of trees I saw two gullies, the alternate route described in the scrambles book? I thought, or not. There were some trees on a knoll just below the ridge. I decided that this must be the trees mentioned and continued up towards the ridge, and finally to the white ledges that lead up to the summit ridge. I learned alot about exposure scrambling up to the top of that ridge. It was fairly simple going good hand and foot holds, but about halfway up looking down there was a little more exposure than it appeared looking up from the bottom. I was up at the lookout at Three Fingers last week and it was a different kind of exposure. After traversing the ridge I saw a boot path that led to the summit gully. The gully itself was steep in some spots and had some loose rock, but did not have alot of exposure. The wind was blowing pretty hard on the summit. I found a nice little spot to tuck myself in while I checked the time, had a bite to eat, take in the views and sign the register. It was 9:30, way to early to head back so I decided to continue on, at least over Melakwa pass. On the way down I decided to stay on the boot path and see where it went. It eventually headed down the ridge to the gullies I had seen earlier. The descent was a little more gradual, but there was alot more loose rock (choss), and I ended up having to backtrack some. I stayed as high as I could while traversing the talus and loose rock heading towards the pass. I got my first glimpse of Mount Roosevelt as I came over the top of the pass. I also got my first look at Chair Peak Lake. I was impressed by the sheer vertical walls that surround it. I descended the pass to the lake and traversed the ice field that is still there. the sun had not yet hit it to make it less slippery. I crossed the outlet of the lake and scrambled up on some rock to get a good look at Mount Roosevelt. I now also had a pretty good view of Snow lake. The 75 scrambles book describes the route to the summit from Snow lake via Gem lake. I was comming the other direction so I was hoping to find a route from Chair Peak Lake. I found a faint boot path that let to a talus field just nw of the lake past a by now small tarn. I could see a heather slope above the talus and then a gully leading in the direction of the summit. The route up the talus was not to bad, the heather though was pretty steep. there was some exposed rock paralelling the talus which was a little steeper but was more sucure. I stayed on that when I could. eventually I did have to cross the heather slope to get to the gully. Took my time. Once I reached the gully it was mainly just one foot in front of the other till the summit. Great views of Chair Peak. Nice vertical drop off the backside. Bad move. I thought I could now find my way down the heather slope described in the scrambles book, traverse the ridge to Gem Lake, take a swim, exit snow lake in plenty of time to get a ride. It was now 11:45, got to the summit at 11:20. I started down following a boot path leading in the direction I thought would be the route leading to the ridge leading to Gem Lake. The trail eventually led into a stand of thick low trees. I thought this was kind of odd but there was definitely boot wear. The trees got thicker the paths fainter the terrain steeper. I kept traversing the slope hoping to find something that made sense but it only got worse. By now I was getting pretty scratched up, and when twice while hanging on to the trees for balance all I could see was air below me I decided it was was time to retrace my steps towards the summit and descend the way I came up. After resting on a rock outcropping and watching a bear from a distance I made my way back to Chair peak lake and looked up to see the error of my ways, seems I should of kept more to the left. I won't know for sure until I go back. probly from the other direction. I then took a minute to decide where to go from there. My main reason for going was to have a good time, enjoy the beauty of the mountains, do some scrambling. maybe learn something, and above all else, not take myself to seriously. So I decided Chair Peak Lake looked like a pretty good lake to swim in. It was COLD. At 2:00pm was at the top of Melakwa pass. At 4:30 was back at my truck. Those were the only times I checked the time, along with the times on the peaks. Only saw Two people from upper Melakwa to the pass. From the pass, no one. I don't have a good digital camera, Yet. So I have no pictures. I was kind of reluctant to even wright this TR without pics. I would rather have the pictures tell the story. Im not to eloquent. I also can't write very well.

[Tom]

Nice TR. Swimming at Chair Peak Lake?

[Dayhike Mike]

Great trip report! Sounds like you had a good time!

[McPilchuck]

A good read, I enjoyed it! A beautiful day indeed. I thought I heard rocks falling from up there...I went into Snow Lake, Gem, and the Wildcats for the day. Then "stormed" out the trail in the early evening (passing about 2 dozen other hikers as we flew) with the old Raichle Montagna mountain boots on and friend Hans Helm fast on my heels.... McPil

[kleet]