Forum Index > Trip Reports > Mt Whitney and Eastern Sierra - 7/29/2004
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marta
wildflower maven



Joined: 07 May 2003
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marta
wildflower maven
PostSat Jul 31, 2004 6:02 pm 
I am spoiled. We just got back from a week hiking in the Southern Sierra and climbing Mt. Whitney. The weather, the trails, the flowers, … everything was wonderful. Okay… maybe it was a bit more crowded than WA but we loved it. We left on Saturday July 24th and flew to Ontario CA. We had a permit to day climb Mt. Whitney on Thursday July 29th and Ontario is the closest airport. We picked up our compact (slow climbing hills) Hyundai and headed north. We traveled over Cajon Pass in the shadow of Mt. Baldy and quickly got a taste for the fast driving in CA. Now I know why SUVs sell so well. While we were in the truck lane, SUV after SUV passed us at 75 MPH. After a quick stop at In-N-Out burger in Hesperia, we crossed the Mojave Desert. Nothing but heat for miles. How did people drive across without AC? I remember traveling once with my parents from Pasadena. We crossed the area at night to avoid the heat. You could feel it through the car roof and floor. After about 3 hours, we reached Lone Pine. We still had a couple of hours left to drive since we were staying a Mammoth Lakes for four days to acclimate before returning to Lone Pine. We finally reached Mammoth after 5pm after about a 5 hour drive (300 miles). We checked into our condo and headed for the grocery store and then pizza and beer. On Sunday, we planned a hike to Mono Pass out of Rock Creek to help us acclimate. From Mammoth, we drove about 30 miles to the trail head at Rock Creek and 10,300 ft. The road is paved all they way and there is no charge to park at the trail head at Mosquito Valley. The trail head has a clean modern restroom (fully stocked with toilet paper) and adequate parking. I didn’t need a trail pass or have to pay anything to park and do a day hike. The trail head is for two hikes, Little Lakes Valley and Mono Pass. The trail goes about ½ mile then splits. We headed up to Mono Pass. The flowers were spectacular. The end of July is a perfect time for wildflowers. Around the lakes, there were mosquitos but not too bad. After we passed the junction to Ruby Lake, we got above both the tree line. We were passed several times by horse parties and mule packs out of Rock Creek. It is so dry at this altitude that there were few flies and the horsesh#t dried quickly. The mule urine was a bit smelly (like a barnyard) but much easier to take than Teanaway. It was very desolate but the views back down to Little Lakes were spectacular. After 4 miles, we had climbed to the pass at 12,040. Breathing was a bit labored and we had a headache. Lunch time. We then climbed to the ridge and had a stunning view down to Pioneer Basin. The next day was a hike-free day. We did a road trip to Mono Lake which was about 25 miles or so from Mammoth and then up to Tioga Pass and Tuolumne Meadows. The Golden Passport really pays off. It was $6.00 to see the tufa formations at Mono Lake and $20.00 entrance to Yosemite. On Tuesday, we went into Bishop and up to South Lake about 60 miles from Mammoth. Again, paved all the way to the trail head at 9,800Ft. Our destination was an easy hike to Long Lake. (5 miles rt, 10,700, 900 elevation gain). This was a much more popular trailhead. A day or two hike from the TH and you can easily reach the John Muir Trail. A three or four day hike can take you to the Palisades or Emigrant Basin. But the stark beauty. You reach county like the Enchantments with just a few hours day hike. On Wednesday, we moved to Lone Pine. Along the way, we drove up to the Ancient Bristlecone Forest off Westgard Pass. We took a short hike at the Schulman Grove. It was amazing to see the trees that were centuries old that are able to survive at 11,000ft. On Thursday, we got up at 2am and had a quick cup of coffee and pastry. After a 30 minute drive we were at the Whitney Portal. As we pulled into the parking lot, we saw several bears rummaging around the area. Bear canisters are required and absolutely no food can be left in the car. The bears will break in your car if they see an ice chest or smell food. At 3:15am, we started our hike. The trail is very easy to follow. The first 2.8 miles to Lone Pine lake is well graded with not a lot of rocks or roots. As you hike, you can see other hikers ahead on the switch back. They look like fireflies in the dark with their headlamps. After about three miles, the dawn broke and we could pack our headlamps. At 4 miles (Mirror Lake), the hillsides turned golden as the first days of sun touched the stark white mountainsides. At 8am, we reached Trail Camp, 12,040Ft 6.3 miles. From this point, we would start the 97 switchbacks up to Trail Crest at 13,660. We took a break, ate a sandwich and energy gel. We also filled up our water since this was the last water source for the next 5 (10 RT) miles). Other than a slight upset stomach, we both felt fine. The four days of acclimating paid off. Along the switch backs was a wonderful flower called Sky Pilot; Polemonium Eximium. It had a wonderful scent. Head down, we headed up. At places you can see other hikers above you. Don’t look up! Just focus on the trail. It took us 2 hours to climb the 2.2 miles, 1620 elevation gain to Trail Crest. Here you enter Sequoia National Park and look west. It also becomes very windy and cold as you pass over to the west side of the crest. There was still another 2.5 miles and 900 ft or so to go. Shortly after noon, we made it to the top. What a rush. We had views in all directions. We hung out for about an hour talking to others and admiring the views. Nothing but blue sky. Finally, we headed down. I have a bad knee and knew it would not be easy. It wasn’t. The trail to Trail Camp is not bad. You walk over a lot of shale and have to step down quite a bit but it is pretty smooth. The knee didn’t like it anyway but the worse was yet to come. The area between Trail Camp and Outpost Camp is not level and very rocky. It took me a long painful time to make it down through this section. Once past Lone Pine Lake, it is very smooth and ‘easy’ considering you have hiked 19 miles and you have been on the trail for 14 hours. We made it down shortly after 7pm. We drove back to Lone Pine, grabbed some junk food at Carl’s and crashed. 9 hours up and 6 hours down I’m sorting through my pictures and I’ll post some shortly.

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Andrew
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Andrew
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PostSat Jul 31, 2004 11:33 pm 
Wonderful report, quite an expedition. I would love to visit the Eastern Sierras, can't wait to see your photos.

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polarbear
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polarbear
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PostSun Aug 01, 2004 10:53 am 
I was down there several years ago, and the Mt. Whitney hike is one of the best I've been on. The views were awesome. I'd like to get back to to the area and explore more of the country. Lucky you!

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marta
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Joined: 07 May 2003
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marta
wildflower maven
PostSun Aug 01, 2004 9:57 pm 
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MooseAndSquirrel
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PostSun Aug 01, 2004 10:12 pm 
Sounds like quite the day trip. eek.gif I've only driven to the Portal- the peaks above look so close but.... I was going to ask if you stopped at the Alabama Hills outside of Lone Pine on the way to Whitney but see that you did- they can be a destination themselves. So many interesting and diverse things to see in that region- from 4000 yr old bristlecone pines to million year old Mono Lk. and its tufa towers. Someday I'd like to do a backpack incl. Mono Pass and the High Sierra, I had to cancel at the last minute with permit in hand too. bawl.gif

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Dean
(aka CascadeHiker)



Joined: 02 Mar 2002
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Location: ex Kennewick, Wa & Lehi Utah
Dean
(aka CascadeHiker)
PostThu Aug 12, 2004 10:18 pm 
That is a nice report and lots of nice pics and my effort on Mt. Whitney did not turn out so well. I'll explain that in a bit. My wife and I were attending a family re-union in San Diego and on the way down I picked off a couple of county highpoints, Kern and Ventura's. To get the two required hiking about 7 miles in 90 degree heat but it was a relief to get off of I-5 and its high speed traffic. After the re-union I did Mt. San Jacinto, a 10,800+ peak near Palm Springs. I also had planned to do San Gorgonio but it was shut down temporarily because of a fire closure (but no actual fire). So, we headed for Lone Pine to do Mt. Whitney. I was able to move my permit up a day early and we found a camp spot at a campground about 7 miles up the road towards the Portal. The 100 degree heat in Lone Pine was bothersome but it wasn't much cooler where we camped and we had the additional excitement of knowing we were camping in an active bear area and everything had to be put into a bear locker, located at the campsite. Aug 3rd. Since I had a permit for the Mountaineer route and not the regular trail that most people take, I got up early and drove up to the Portal and foud a parking spot. I started up just before it got light using a headlamp for the first mile. The Eberbacher ledges went easily and I thought I had the trail all to myself until I was passed by three younger guys near Lower Boyscout Lake. It helps to be half my age. My intent was to dayhike up via the MR and come down via the trail. I was doing well and was contouring over towards Iceberg Lake when I had what would normally be a trivial mishap. My feet skidded out from under me on a granite slab (sandy pebbles acted like ballbearings) and normally my trekking poles would have saved me from taking a fall but not this time. I instinctively put my right hand down and immediately knew something bad had happened. My right hand had taken my full weight and something was either badly sprained or broken. Not good since I now had trouble with opening and closing my hand. I looked at my situation and figured I might need that hand on some part of the upper route (class 2 and 3) and while my desire was to continue since I was less than two or three hours from my goal (guesstimate), I knew in my heart that I had to go down and have my hand dealt with. I took more time to get back to my vehicle at the Portal than I had taken to get up. Several times, no matter how careful I tried to be, I would nail my right hand in some way and scare the heck out of me that I might injure it worse. Being a dentist requires the use of both hands and even though I am left handed, I could see some trying weeks ahead if it was indeed broken. I gathered my wife up from the Lone Pine campground, where we had been staying and she pretty much packed up the campsite and loaded the car while I was feeling sorry for myself. I was bummed but I felt coming down was the only realistic decision. At the small emergency clinic in Lone Pine they x-rayed my hand and found that I had broken the middle portion of my right little finger and the M.D. on duty put a splint on and said "6 weeks" for healing. When asked, I explained how it had happened and they acted like people who climb mountains are nuts (maybe we are) So, its going to be next year for Whitney and White Mtn Peak but the one that hurt the most was not being able to finish up Oregon with Dennis Poulin on Mt. Jefferson, scheduled for the weekend. A good team was organized for it and that was for me a major disappointment not to be with them. Thaat group did indeed summit on this past sunday and they called me from the summit with one of those "wish you were here" calls. I think i'd better change my name from CascadeHiker though as I seem to rarely be in the cascades anymore.

Dean - working in Utah for awhile and feeling like it is a 'paid' vacation. http://www.summitpost.org/user_page.php?user_id=1160
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marta
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Joined: 07 May 2003
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marta
wildflower maven
PostFri Aug 13, 2004 8:09 am 
Sorry to hear you didn't make it but thankfully you didn't have any further injuries. I have been wondering how you did since I knew you were also doing it this year. Are you going to try again next year? If so, good luck with the lottery.

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Dean
(aka CascadeHiker)



Joined: 02 Mar 2002
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Location: ex Kennewick, Wa & Lehi Utah
Dean
(aka CascadeHiker)
PostFri Aug 13, 2004 9:53 am 
Yes, I'll be back in the lottery again. I may just go the trail the next time but then again, I'm now pretty familiar with the MR. I'd kind of like to finish what I started. Again, congrat's to you Marta, Whitney is a great mountain. up.gif

Dean - working in Utah for awhile and feeling like it is a 'paid' vacation. http://www.summitpost.org/user_page.php?user_id=1160
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Stones
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Joined: 08 Apr 2004
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Stones
funk soul brother
PostSun Aug 15, 2004 3:48 pm 
That was a nice report and made me homesick for the Sierra. I know all of those places very well. A great way to do Whitney, if you are a scrambling sort, is by way of the Mountaineers Route mentioned by CascadeHiker. This route was originally climbed by John Muir. It is steep but not overly difficult or exposed and does require a few hand moves near the top slabs. I remember coming down the climbers trail from this route at night, completely missing the junction for the Ebersbacher Ledges, and having to pick our way down N. F. Lone Pine Creek with flashlights through big talus, waterfalls, and willow thatches . Don't miss the ledges or you'll be cursing the whole way.

Let me stand next to your fire
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Dean
(aka CascadeHiker)



Joined: 02 Mar 2002
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Dean
(aka CascadeHiker)
PostSun Aug 15, 2004 7:55 pm 
Stones: I went down the way you did, duh, INTENTIONALLY. I was cussing myself for being so dumb as my report that I posted elsewhere indicates. Yeah, I get homesick for the Sierra too, it was where I first fell in love with backpacking and the mountains, the 1000 Island Lake area above Reds Meadow. I was but a teenie bopper then (a long time ago in a galaxy far away) Next year I'll be chasing after Ritter and Lyell peaks in that area (along with Whitney again). agree.gif

Dean - working in Utah for awhile and feeling like it is a 'paid' vacation. http://www.summitpost.org/user_page.php?user_id=1160
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Stones
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Stones
funk soul brother
PostMon Aug 16, 2004 10:53 pm 
Intentionally!? eek.gif I can't wait to hear about Ritter. That's another Sierra classic. I did it some time ago. I found part of an obsidian spear point just above Lake Ediza (9,800 feet +/-) on my way to the top. The interesting thing about San Gorgonio is that there is compelling evidence for small glaciers on it during the last ice age. I did San Gorgonio in one long day but San Jacinto eluded me for all the years I lived in SoCal. I went for it once starting from near Idyllwild but we'd been drinking tequila the night before and stalled short of the top. Next time I'll take the tram and forget the tequila.

Let me stand next to your fire
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