[Beave]

Met Randy B. around 5:30am in Issaquah. After doing this trip, I can say an early start is advisable! This trip put the "labor" in our Labor Day and was a "great" choice, given we both had to work the following day.

Although this was Randy's first attempt, I had attempted Overcoat in June of '02 with another fellow NWhiker, Mike C. (who would summit 3 months after our failed June attempt.) Mike and I's route up the steep and infamous snow-finger, was a no-go. So I returned, armed with better route info, Randy, and a strong desire to knock this one off my list.

We blazed up the freshly graded MFK road until Dingford Creek, where the road returned to it's usual roughness. The Dutch Miller TH was packed when we left @ 7:15am. We encountered lot's of wet brush on the way up the trail and even noticed frost on some of the surrounding vegetation. Fall is on it's way.

After about 1.5 hours on the trail, we saw our gap across the valley, which gives access to the lowest reaches of the hanging "glacier" seen on the USGS map. We gave up looking for a brush free line and mashed our way down to the MFK river where we conveniently found a slick log we could shimmy across the river on. Staying to the E side of the two creeks that drain from the valley above, you will find pleasant travel through open forest as you head up towards the gap. Keep an eye out for the impressive waterfall that can be seen near the top.

When we got to the point of leaving the forest and entering the hanging valley, the terrain was drastically different from the consolidated snow Mike and I had easily traveled over 2 years prior. Nothing but brush to start out with and talus from there on. You can traverse on talus for a bit, but eventually you will have to bite the bullet and do some classic Cascade bushwhacking. In and out through scrub trees, brush, creeks, micro-tarns and invisible holes under heather; Do whatever it takes to get into the rocky basin ahead of you.

Now from the basin, travel generally SSW towards the headwall, where a large flat-top looking “peak” will be right in front of you. This false peak, is actually the ridge @ 6200’ you see on the USGS map. Near the base of the headwall, look up and spot a ledge system that will grant you access to the terrain above. Work up this ledge, then scramble upwards on fairly easy rocky terrain; Again, whatever line works best. The dry slabs have great friction and most of the rock is sound except the obvious loose rocks littered about. Anyway, most routes can be puzzled out. Keep the flat-top formation to your left, as you will pass it on it’s right(W)-side. Work up step-after-step, until you finally crest the last one. BAM! Overcoat Peak and Chimney Rock are in your face. You will see the obvious snow-finger, which at this time of year is a treacherous ice-finger with gaping moats on both sides. This is also where the glacier begins. I thought it would be more of a snowfield, but it is a real-deal glacier. I would say it’s comparable to the Ingraham Glacier on Rainer (excluding total size). Check out your USGS, and note that the upper portion (6100’-7000’+) is in-fact a glacier, and the lower portion (5600’-6000’), while shown on the map, no longer exists.

We had been advised to leave our crampons at home, but had we done so, our outing would have ended here. The glacier ice was hard and super-slick. One un-arrested fall would undoubtedly lead to a tumble into one of the many visible crevasses. We could not see the upper reaches of the glacier, so we decided to drop down a bit and see if we could work a route up from down-low. Do not go this way. The lower reaches are riddled with undermining water tunnels from the high run-off volumes. We ascended back up to the N ridge of Overcoat and donned crampons and ice-axes for the unsure traverse. Our target was the Chimney Rock/Overcoat Peak saddle. I took a quick peak over the high-point on the N ridge to get a view and picture of seldom seen Overcoat Lake. Nice!

After some fiddling with new boots and old crampons, we set out on our traverse. This glacier is badly broken and while we didn’t, I highly recommend people roping up. The crevasses are “black-hole” deep, you’ll have to jump a couple of them and we also had to deal with a sketchy snow-bridge. Also be aware of the spotty, fresh looking snow that has laid a wafer-thin roof to more than a couple death-traps.

Finally at the Overcoat/Chimney saddle, we ditched axes and crampons and jumped directly onto the S ridge. No moat issues getting on the ridge, which is loose at first, but improves in about 20’. Find a ledge that traverses on the W side of the S ridge. It is quite exposed, and while one fall would not kill you, two falls definitely would. Thoroughly test all hand and foot holds, as you may find yourself hanging from one at any given time. The rock is generally sound, but definitely looser than anywhere else on the trip. Gather your wits and take a moment to admire the views up to Chimney Rock, across to Rainer, and down to Iceberg Lake.

From the beginning of this traverse, I seriously wondered if it was even possible. Every angle looked so severe and exposed. Gullies looked hopelessly steep. Randy led out from here and assured me things weren’t so bad. It’s true. I’d rate it a strong Class 3 w/ a touch of Class 4 here and there. Take it one step/handhold at a time, and it reveals a much more forgiving way than you would have ever thought possible. At this time, there are a few very small patches of fresh snow on and around the ledge. I would only advise this route in snow-free conditions. Late Aug-early Sept is the best time for this mountain, as the snow is gone from this ledge and the glacier has shown most of it’s weaknesses.

After a couple hundred feet of traversing the ledge, you should be able to see the 1st of two major gullies, both of which run the same direction (S to N) to the ledge you are on. It appears to be hideously steep, but only gets better looking the closer you get. Scramble up this, and you will have a view to the next major gully, that appears to lead right up to the base of the summit rocks. Now, in between this gully you see and the gully you are standing on top of, see a red-rocked, heathery slot that is up against the mountain side. Descend a bit, then scramble up this red-rock slot 2/3 of it’s length, and exit out to exposed rocks on the left (W) side of it. Now, from the top of this slot, look over to the next S to N angled gully that leads to the summit blocks. DO NOT CLIMB THAT GULLY!!! This was our mistake. Instead, traverse to halfway between that gully and the slot you just came up. Now, look upslope to a heathery gully that leads up to an angled chimney (A wall on the left that overhangs a slabby rock.) This route leads up to the saddle between the S peak and the true summit. We dropped our packs at the base of the slab/overhang. Dry off your boots and hands, as friction will be your best friend getting up this part. Having some knowledge of rock climbing technique helps also. You will have to stem, use opposition and be a fairly experienced scrambler to make it safely up. If you bring ropes and harnesses for the glacier, you can put them to VERY good use here. I would rate it a low Class 5. The first part seemed to be the hardest, so once you are in, you are committed.

So you’ve reached the saddle between the S summit and the main summit. Go left (N) in a tight counter-clockwise circle and work a few Class 2-3 moves; Nothing compared to the stuff you just came up!!

It’s a lonely peak. We were happy to find Mike C’s film canister inside the shattered plastic tube that it replaced. No signers of the register, since it was placed by Mike and his friend, 2 years and 14 days ago. Tragically, our wrong turn earlier and a few other incidents meant we didn’t have more than 5 minutes to hang out on the summit. After some pictures and quick views to hundreds of local and distant peaks, we retreated to our gully, slightly concerned about how we would down-climb it. We had brought slings up with us, and as luck would have it, these 7-8 slings of different lengths, when combined would be JUST enough to let us have a hand-line to within 10’ of the place where our packs awaited. We double-checked knots, created a bomber chock-stone, and began our descent. Near the bottom we had to swing underneath the overhang to where it met the slab and kind of fall into that area. If you are attempting this route, keep your eye out for the hand-line made of green, orange, red and black slings that should be dangling down the gully you need. Use at your own risk!

We traversed out to the saddle, geared up and re-crossed the glacier. Good time was made down the rocky ledges and we were happy to be back in the brush at the last valley step before the MFK. We opted for a more direct descent to the MFK, where we came right to another perfect crossing log. Two more minutes in the brush and we stumbled onto the trail. Headlamps came on, and we were on our way out, constantly eye-balling the TH beacon that is Burnboot Peak, still a couple miles away. Back at the car and an empty Dutch Miller TH @ 9:15pm. Home and in bed by 12am, ready for a hard-days work at 5:00am!

Stats: 14+ miles RT, 6000’+ gain, 14 hours car-to-car

[Stefan]

thanks Beave for the detail!

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Art is an adventure.

[Randy]

Good report. What the hell have I been doing writing reports for the last few years, your reports are much better!

[Beave]

Thanks for the positive reviews Randy and Stefan. Also, if you haven't already done this peak (Stefan) and are considering it in the very near future, be wary of this recent rainy weather. Some of those hand and foot holds in the slabby gully are fairly small and hard to jam a boot into. Having them be wet or dusted with new snow would definately up the difficulty. Having a dusting of snow on the long W ledge system would be bad news as well.

[hikerjo]

Was there a reason you guys did this one so late in the season?  Just wondering.  I wan't to do this next year.

[Randy]

This is the best time of year for Overcoat via the route we took. We did not want to haul a rope and harnesses all that way for such a small amount of climbing. The route we took would be impossible with snow on it as you could not protect the ledge even with pickets. One slight mistake and you would be dead as the ledge would be 12" wide and may not even exist with snow on it.

An earlier trip in May or early June would be good for the snow finger route, but you'd need a rope to complete the climb. Based on what we saw on Monday, between mid June and the end of August if you were planning on traveling the glacier you'd want to rope up as the glacier is littered with crevasses.

[Dayhike Mike]

Hey there, Beave and Randy...thanks for the TR -- sounds like you had a great trip!

I've been trying to get up there for the last two weekends and the weather hasn't cooperated with me to date.

How passable was the glacier just across the top? In other words, would you still recommend crampons if just crossing the ice from west to east, from the rock ridge just north of Overcoat Peak to the 6600' bluffy area due east of there?

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"There is only one basic human right, the right to do as you damn well please. And with it comes the only basic human duty, the duty to take the consequences." -P.J. O'Rourke
"Ignorance is natural. Stupidity takes commitment." -Solomon Short

[Randy]

Mike, I'm not sure exactly what your talking about. Can you post a map with the route you want to take, so I can comment?

[Randy]

Not happy with my pictures, but here are a few to chew on...

[Lagerman]

I will use you as an example, others have done so too.

I apperciate your detail Beave, some reports are alot of assuming you know the trail. I have not been to very much places in Washingon, so having very detail repots are really appreciated on my part. I thank you for taking that effort in doing so.

[hikerjo]