[javman]

Disclaimer: This is kinda long. And there's lots of long exposures and ferns and rainforest stuff. Sorry if that's not your thing A few weeks ago while flipping through the Olympic Mountains Trail Guide by Robert Wood, I paused and read his description of the abandoned "Sams River Trail". He describes the stream in detail from its confluence with the Queets to the "Fourth Canyon", the latter extending a mile with a 20-foot waterfall at its head. This piqued my interest and soon I was zooming through Google Earth and checking out DNR maps. The original trail was abandoned after logging hit the area, and huge clearcuts scarred the landscape all the way to the edge of the creek. Judging from the second growth, I'd say this was 40-50 years ago. But luckily, the fourth canyon survived the saws, and old growth remains. The road I wanted was FS#2180 (the same one which will eventually lead to the Queets), which dead-ends at a washout almost 18 miles up the W. Boundary Road off 101. The washout is downstream of "Third Canyon" as well as the 500 bridge. I wasn't sure how long ago the road washed out, or what condition it was in, but I figured I'd find out A late start on Saturday had me departing the truck at 2pm. I crossed the first washout and headed up the old abandoned road. It was in better shape than I expected, but they really tore it up in places. I came to a second washout, then a third, fourth, and fifth. The quality of the road was deteriorating, and young alders were becoming annoying. In places I used my tripod as a shield and plowed through with my eyes closed.

Shortly after the fifth washout, towering trees appeared on the left side of the road, and I knew it was time to descend. As I made my way down through the old growth, the soft rumbling of the Sams grew louder. I found a way down to the stream, only to realize the water pretty much went from wall-to-wall, and unless I wanted to get extremely wet, I'd have to stay well above the creek. Right around then, the rain started -- just enough rain to make taking photos challenging.

I stopped for a break and took some flower shots. Anyone know what the yellow one is called? I was following a game trail, and the freshest tracks belonged to a bear.

I worked my way up the canyon high above the creek. Most of the time I couldn't even see it, but if I heard the crashing sound of whitewater, I'd drop my pack and try to get to the edge of the cliff.

I spotted what looked like a 12-15 foot waterfall, but there didn't seem to be any way to get closer or lower. It certainly looked like it could fit Wood's description, but I wasn't sure if this was the end of the canyon. I pressed on a little bit further but then decided it was getting late and I needed to set up camp and eat.

On Sunday I got up at 6. It hadn't poured, but the constant soft rain had left everything drenched. I knew there was no way that I could stay dry today. I packed up, but left my pack behind as I crashed upstream. I went probably a half mile, and it was obvious the valley was widening and the tall canyon walls had ended.

I was already drenched, so I turned around, thinking I might find a way down to the falls I spotted yesterday. I found a steep ramp leading down halfway from the top of the cliff to the water, but it was a little sketchy and there was no way I was going to make it down to the water. (Wood's approach was on the north side -- perhaps it's easier over there)

Finally I had a decent view. The scale is hard to relate in these photos. The closer falls in the photo is actually from a side-stream, and the further falls are hidden from view. Like I said, the distance from the upper pool to the lower was probably around 15 feet. I'd say this qualifies as Wood's description that "The falls are a barrier to the upward migration of fish ..."

I wondered to myself if this was it? Maybe I need to come back again to check further up? How long ago had Mr. Wood been here? 30 years maybe? I thanked him silently for sharing his knowledge of this place, then shouldered my pack. Following my path back out, I got drenched. The ground was covered with wet grass and moss, and crashing through the alders was equivalent to taking a cold shower. I don’t remember ever being so wet in my life. But the next time I visit the Olys I'll probably say the same thing 9-10 miles RT.

[Magellan]

Good for you getting out and seeing the obscure stuff. There are wild places that need visiting.

[greg]

Looks like yellow monkeyflower.

[javman]

Yes Magellan, there are a lot of wild places that are nearly forgotten. Those are the places I like I wonder sometimes how that's possible, with the millions of people living in the Puget Sound area. Thanks Greg, I've never heard of that one!

[Phil]

Nice report javman and a daring choice for an outing I'd say. How long was the drive in? I would love to visit the Queets area again but am put off by the drive time.

[Magellan]

Nothing like hiking along in the middle of nowhere, miles from anybody, and suddenly, BLAM, ancient trail beneath your feet. These secret places need to be disclosed so they are not lost. Very nice pix!

[puzzlr]

You have a great eye for photos. Thanks for the descriptive TR -- made me feel like I was there, but without having to get wet. The picture of the partially obscured old growth stump feels like a sasquatch sighting -- spooky!

[javman]

Thanks Phil, Magellan & puzzlr puzzlr - You probably had sasquatches on your mind after seeing the photo before the stump Phil - Where I started was around 17.5 miles up the road from 101. It's two-lanes and paved until 2180, where it turns to gravel.. Then it turns back to pavement (!?), and then back to gravel. The gravel sections have some decent pot-holes. I'd say it took about 35 minutes to get to the washout. Also - On my way in, before I turned down 2180, I drove around a corner and there were two trucks with hound boxes in the back. Each truck had one hound on top, with radio-collars and barking away. Last time I checked, this has been illegal for awhile. They both pulled U-turns and sped off. A mile down the road was another collared hound, running down the road towards me. It happened so fast, and I wasn't sure what I was witnessing, that I didn't even think to get license plates. Afterwards I was a little paranoid I passed the info on to WDF&W but they haven't gotten back to me. Just a heads up to keep your eyes open out there...

[weathercrazy]

Awesome photos! These are the kind of hikes I like so much! I do love the views too, but when clouds hang in, they force you to look closer and see things that are often overlooked. Tyler

[xan]