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cartman
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Joined: 20 Feb 2007
Posts: 2800 | TRs | Pics
Location: Fremont |
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cartman
Member
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 Fri Aug 03, 2007 10:27 am |
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Went up there yesterday to climb this with Brent G., we'd both been wanting to do this classic alpine peak for some time.
The driving directions and bike approach are well described here:
http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=382309
Definitely take mountain bikes. The 6 mile, 2-3 hour road slog uphill (more pushing than riding) is well worth it: it only took 30-40 minutes to cover those same 6 miles coming out by bike. And take the bikes all the way to the cairn-marked trailhead--we were able to ride the bikes all the way to the car without stopping and getting off. There are crews in there that have removed all the overhanging vegetation on the roads, so the roads are all clear and in good shape (the upper road appears to have been graded this year).
I'll not get into much detail on the route; the description in Smoot's "Climbing Washington's Mountains" is very good (drop around obstructions as he describes), but there are many variations possible on the West Ridge, depending on how spicy you want to make it. We did not bring or need a rope, although the route is definitely class 4 in places and solid class 3 on most of the ridge. The rock is also as good as advertised, tons of holds and generally solid, much more so than virtually any other Cascade peak I've climbed. On most of the route the high point you are looking at is the false summit; the true summit does not become visible until you are nearly past the false summit. Overall, a very enjoyable climb.
Eric J. Johnson
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Magellan
Brutally Handsome
Joined: 26 Jul 2006
Posts: 13116 | TRs | Pics
Location: Inexorable descent |
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Magellan
Brutally Handsome
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Fri Aug 03, 2007 10:33 am |
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I have always wanted to do this climb but have been concerned about downclimbing. Did you descend the same way, and how was it?
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Guiran
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Joined: 03 Mar 2004
Posts: 621 | TRs | Pics
Location: University of Washington |
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Guiran
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Fri Aug 03, 2007 10:44 am |
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Nice - been thinking about doing that one myself for a while.
How long did it take you to do the route? And did you downclimb?
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Matt
Tea, Earl Grey, Hot
Joined: 30 Jan 2007
Posts: 4307 | TRs | Pics
Location: Shoreline |
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Matt
Tea, Earl Grey, Hot
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Fri Aug 03, 2007 11:22 am |
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Congratulations.
Are your fingertips sore from grabbing the high-friction rock?
Any pics?
“As beacons mountains burned at evening.” J.R.R. Tolkien
“As beacons mountains burned at evening.” J.R.R. Tolkien
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Layback
Cascades Expatriate
Joined: 16 Mar 2007
Posts: 5712 | TRs | Pics
Location: Back East |
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Layback
Cascades Expatriate
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Fri Aug 03, 2007 1:47 pm |
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Nice job E. Let's see them pics!
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cartman
Member
Joined: 20 Feb 2007
Posts: 2800 | TRs | Pics
Location: Fremont |
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cartman
Member
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Fri Aug 03, 2007 3:46 pm |
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| Magellan wrote: | | I have always wanted to do this climb but have been concerned about downclimbing. Did you descend the same way, and how was it? |
The descent we chose was back down the ridge, since we didn't bring ice axes for the North Slope descent (which would still be mostly down snow, but is quite steep near the top and requires a long traverse back to the ridge trail). Descending the ridge can be greatly simplified by using the bootpaths on either side, mostly on climber's right high up and on climber's left for the rest of the descent. However, these paths are not continuous along the ridge, blocked in places by gullys or rock obstructions, so downclimbing the top of the ridge directly is required in certain places (especially coming down from the summit), and still requires class 3/4 skills. Best strategy is to follow paths on the side and upclimb back to the ridge crest when blocked by the terrain; take the route of least resistance. But stay high. Don't drop more than 50' off the ridge except when going around the large obstructions (the same ones you had to go around coming up, noted in Smoot's book). Tip: the paths tend to consist of yellowish dirt and are fairly easy to follow, and are what are used to go around the large obstructions on the way up. We felt downclimbing the ridge was fine; the combination of good rock, lots of holds, and the paths made for a quick and efficient descent route.
This would be a nice, straightforward snow scramble up the North Slope, especially in June, though there might be a few interesting moves high on the summit block.
The ridge is 2500' vertical in 1.3 miles (mileage according to Beckey) from the TH. 3 hours from the actual TH (where we stashed the bikes) to summit, 1.5 hours down.
My fingers are a little sore; the rock has a sandpaper-like feel. If Brent forwards me his pics, I'll post them.
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Magellan
Brutally Handsome
Joined: 26 Jul 2006
Posts: 13116 | TRs | Pics
Location: Inexorable descent |
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Magellan
Brutally Handsome
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Fri Aug 03, 2007 7:56 pm |
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Matt
Tea, Earl Grey, Hot
Joined: 30 Jan 2007
Posts: 4307 | TRs | Pics
Location: Shoreline |
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Matt
Tea, Earl Grey, Hot
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Mon Aug 06, 2007 11:32 am |
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Cool toad pic.
“As beacons mountains burned at evening.” J.R.R. Tolkien
“As beacons mountains burned at evening.” J.R.R. Tolkien
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