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Fred_Beavon Member
Joined: 24 Apr 2006 Posts: 53 | TRs | Pics Location: Edmonds, WA |
There doesn't seem to be much online about Boston, so here's a report of a day trip. Perhaps boring since I don't take pictures.
I took the route up and over Sahale Peak enroute to Boston on Thursday. The only previous party on Boston this year was just the day before, Bruce Davis of Winthrop and a guy from Arizona. Many thanks to Larry Sandstrom of the Mazamas who carried the heavy metal box that contained the register to the summit on 8-14-66. Inside was an oversized 150 page hardback book of mostly blank pages that was the register. With only 22 pages of back to back entries so far, surely it will last many more years. In 2006, only 7 climbers signed in.
The traverse from Sahale had just a bit of snow left and was fun. Descending Boston Glacier, I crossed the moat at the only spot possible. The hugh moat is quite impressive. There's quite a number of ways up and I passed a sling along the way. The loose rock and gravel others have reported experiencing is still there, but as long as I went slow, it felt comfortable. Clouds moved in shortly after summiting, but there were clear views to the east. When the east side started getting foggy too, I quickly decided it was time to leave. I descended an easier route a bit further to the north. The "hardest" part was just above the glacier, but it's just class 3 or 4 depending on the route. The trip back to Sahale was uneventful except for being startled by someone lying down on its summit.
The highlight of the day was meeting a party of three setting up camp on Sahale Arm, a seven year old girl, her Dad, and her Grandmother. On Friday, all three were headed to the summit of Sahale. I have no doubt they all made it. It was the seven year old's first mountain climb. I was awed. I should've asked for her autograph. She had rock climbed 5.7 before, so I'm sure Sahale was a piece of cake. Of course, Dad had a rope for her.
I left Edmonds at 4:30 a.m. and the Cascade Pass parking lot at 7:30. It was about four hours to Sahale and less than an hour and a half more to Boston. The ice axe and crampons never left my pack. No rope taken or needed, but of course, that depends on the route one takes. 8/23/06
Fred
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wildernessed viewbagger
Joined: 31 Oct 2004 Posts: 9275 | TRs | Pics Location: Wenatchee |
Living in the Anthropocene
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Dean (aka CascadeHiker)
Joined: 02 Mar 2002 Posts: 1967 | TRs | Pics Location: ex Kennewick, Wa & Lehi Utah |
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Dean
(aka CascadeHiker)
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Sun Aug 26, 2007 10:17 am
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Great TR Fred. Always nice to hear about one of your trips.
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Spotly Member
Joined: 06 Jan 2004 Posts: 3723 | TRs | Pics Location: Spokane Valley |
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Spotly
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Sun Aug 26, 2007 1:57 pm
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Thanks Fred. You're right about not finding much on the web. I think it's reputation keeps most sane people away
I'd planned on grabbing it last time I was there but after looking over there from Sahale, I changed my mind. Loose 4th class = yuck for me.
Woulda been fun to watch that 7 year old climb Sahale. Sounds like she's getting a good start for an active life!
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gyngve Member
Joined: 26 Nov 2003 Posts: 1161 | TRs | Pics
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gyngve
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Sun Aug 26, 2007 2:43 pm
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They must have had an awesome morning waking up on Friday to see the clouds beneath them!
The poofy cumulus (and perhaps cumulonimbus further east) clouds on Thursday passed through us Thurs night, leaving the edges of our bugnet encased in ice, and filling the valleys.
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Justus S. Member
Joined: 17 Nov 2004 Posts: 1298 | TRs | Pics Location: WA |
Thanks for the report.
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Roald Member
Joined: 06 Aug 2007 Posts: 367 | TRs | Pics Location: Seattle |
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Roald
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Sun Aug 26, 2007 8:21 pm
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Wow, that is some trip to pack into a day. Congratulations! And downclimbing ... I remember being glad to have the rope on Boston, to lower off.
This is the view from Boston toward Forbidden. As one of the (few) summit entries on Boston says, "This is the most intense place I have ever been."
Forbidden Peak, from Boston Peak
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cartman Member
Joined: 20 Feb 2007 Posts: 2800 | TRs | Pics Location: Fremont |
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cartman
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Mon Aug 27, 2007 1:07 pm
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Gregor and I did Boston last year, but in June. Turns out that was a wee bit early, as we had mixed unconsolidated soft snow and rock on the summit block. Very sketchy conditions on that loose, horrid crap. Also we went too far around the summit block before heading up; probably there is a better route if you head up sooner. Our route was serious class 3+/4 with an occasional 5th class move. Also better to go directly over the subsummit rather than around it, considering that the traverse around it is also sketchy.
Fred, very impressive to downclimb that pile; Gregor and I were thrilled to be able to rap off, as we thought at the time that having to downclimb Boston would have been a good way to die. Easily the worst unprotectable (or protectable, for that matter) choss-pile either of us have ever been on.
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summitseeker Member
Joined: 31 Mar 2006 Posts: 138 | TRs | Pics Location: Seattle |
Cool! Yeah, that rock sure is horrid. But the views!!! Oh, the views. Congrats on a safe ascent/descent. I've linked to your TR from my website.
"Find out who you are and then do it on purpose."
www.summitroutes.com : Guidebook to the 100 highest peaks in Washington
"Find out who you are and then do it on purpose."
www.summitroutes.com : Guidebook to the 100 highest peaks in Washington
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Fred_Beavon Member
Joined: 24 Apr 2006 Posts: 53 | TRs | Pics Location: Edmonds, WA |
Thanks for the comments.
Spotly, I went to your web site. You've had some grand adventures.
Roald, I've enjoyed your reports of Golden Horn & Tower, Gardner & North Gardner,
and Big Craggy & West Craggy that you climbed with your daugher. I've done a few peaks with my daughter. Those are special times. Regarding, <As one of the (few) summit entries on Boston says, "This is the most intense place I have ever been."> Good find. That must've affected me too, for after eating breakfast at 4 a.m. at home, I didn't eat again until 5 p.m. when I got back to the comfort of a trail.
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