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silence
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silence
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PostThu Aug 30, 2007 8:38 am 
Passes -- 8/22-8/26 ..... We enjoyed a 5-day loop in the Olys with awesome views and mass wildflowers. Started at Deer Park (5400') in the heavy mist -- with a 3275' descent in 4.3 mi (UGH ... wasn't looking forward to the return trip) thru mostly dark forest down to 3 Forks. Then headed up Cameron Creek -- a real gem -- drippy ... iridescent emerald forest -- with thick moss carpets, fern gardens, and lots of whimsical mushrooms. Made camp at the site of the old shelter ruins above the Cameron and were visited by a friendly doe and her timid fawn most of the evening. Next morn we broke out into open meadows below the rocky cliffs of Grand Valley before beginning the steepish ascent along the creek thru heavy brush (although the trail was easily followed now) into upper Cameron Basin -- the 2nd time we've been on this section of the trail -- having come over Cameron Pass to Grand Pass after doing the Lake Lillian/Cameron Ridge traverse a couple of years ago. The lower reaches of this lovely basin are inundated with crisscrossing rivulets and picturesque meadowlands graced by blooming wildflowers and stands of alpine firs and mountain hemlocks. Around 5400' we passed thru open marshland in the upper basin and then climbed a little higher into the barren cirque just below the pass and Cameron Peak with its glaciers -- here we ate lunch and rested for a while b-4 heading up 700' on the somewhat dicey route over dirt and loose scree to the pass -- AHHH ... where the views just never disappoint! Mt Anderson (and the Eel Glacier) in your face, along with Sentinel, Fromme and Claywood -- to the west is Olympus and the Hoh Glacier; Mts Queets, Seattle, Kimta, and even Christie -- pretty spectacular! Then we headed down on ez tread about 1000' thru wide stretches of heather fields (reminiscent of the Scottish Highlands) and wildflower meadows reaching far below into the Lillian drainage. IT DOESN'T GET MUCH BETTER THAN THIS! In about a mile we passed by the lower bogs of Lost Basin and headed up to Lost Pass traversing the rocky, but wildflower-strewn westerly shoulder of Lost Peak -- originally hoping to scramble up the peak, but arriving too late in the day -- in order to reach our final destination before dark. Lost Pass is a most inviting place -- a broad saddle with grassy fields and nice views -- of Cameron, Olympus, Deception and 1000 Acre Meadow -- from here Lost Peak calls out to be climbed. We then descended the VERY STEEP trail (down short, seemingly endless, switchbacks) to Dose Meadows -- our camp for 2 nites. The meadow was quiet both evenings -- and lies at the base of Mt Fromme -- sunset the 1st eve was esp engaging with clouds dancing around the mountain. Any moment we expected to see a foraging bear, but were only visited by a lone deer. The upper Dose is more of a stream here -- flowing down slabs of bedrock and cascading over log jams and rock steps. A most enchanting Olympic setting. Next morn we headed out for Hayden Pass -- a leisurely start after 2 long days of getting there. We had big plans for either scrambling up Sentinel or exploring 1000 Acre, but we lingered along the scenic trail that winds thru more wildflowers and hidden meadows -- past the 1000 Acre way trail -- to the basin just below the pass -- smaller and less stark than Cameron's -- but, very captivating in it's own right -- it begs to be explored, too. The climb up the open slope to the pass would have been quick, except for stopping for the flowers and views along the way; on the first switchback a young black bear hears us oohing and ahhing and hightails it back into the trees. We had big expectations for the pass -- having been told by many, esp cross-park backpackers, that the panoramas here are pretty awesome -- sadly, we were somewhat disappointed (or maybe just a little jaded) -- views to the north were nice enough -- we could even see McCartney Peak at the beginning of our 2005 Cameron ridge traverse, but to the south Mt Anderson barely peeked thru the trees and Olympus was in the distant haze. Regardless, we stuck around for a relaxing lunch and some photos. While we were on the shadier south side, 7 guys -- day hikers from Bear Camp (on the Dose) -- had arrived unbeknownst to us. They'd scrambled up the rocky ridge a short distance, snacked, and were just starting back down when we arrived on the pass ready to descend. We chatted briefly (they were from Bremerton), and learned that an approaching wet system was still predicted for Sat afternoon. We decided to sit tight and let them go first so we'd have the place all to ourselves. By then it was getting late, and we started thinking about our long hike out the next day and the deteriorating weather forecast -- also needing an early departure because we'd be covering much ground -- so, we left 1000 Acre Meadow for another time. The ambiance of the late afternoon (long shadows on the slopes) was delightful. In the morn we left by 7am heading for Gray Wolf Pass -- wanting to get there b-4 the clouds came in and obscured our views. We made good time reaching the trail jct, and only slowed our pace some on the climb up -- the way is steep, but the traverses and switchbacks are long so the hike isn't too demanding. Once it breaks out of the trees and into the sub-alpine zone we began to see glimpses of Mystery, Little Mystery (and Gunsight Pass) and Deception -- views would've been more expansive except incoming clouds hid the distant peaks to the south. The meadows were still blooming profusely and several creeks still spilled down these drier south-facing slopes. When we hit the pass the clouds were fast approaching -- Deception would soon be engulfed so there was no point in scrambling up the knoll to the east for a better view. The wind was picking up, too, and it turned cold very fast. We shot some pictures -- of the Needles, Gray Wolf Ridge, the 2 tarns in the basin below, and down the Gray Wolf drainage -- read that on a clear day one can see out to the Strait -- NOT this day. Then headed down the scree and talus slope -- a little exposed in places, but only briefly. By the time we reached the large tarn at the base (near the Cedar Lake way trail -- another destination we were hoping to visit) it started raining, and the pass and surrounding peaks were shrouded in fog -- we decided to try to stay ahead of it and regrettably moved thru this pretty basin much too quickly -- bypassing the trip up to Cedar. This area is very beautiful -- we wended blissfully thru charming Zen gardens with fleeting glimpses of the Needles and upper Gray Wolf Ridge -- a mini-Shangri-la of sorts. We were bound for Falls Creek, but when we arrived it was pretty trashed -- ugly fire-pits, burnt down shelter, toilet paper and litter strewn about -- most depressing how people can be so disrespectful -- so we pressed on in the intermittent drizzle past stands of huge hemlocks and moss-covered slopes to Camp Ellis -- a little better place (14 mi that day). The sun was out now and we enjoyed a dry eve. Next morn it was an ez 4.5 mi down to Gray Wolf camp and then 3 Forks. The 4-mi climb back up to Deer Park was relatively ez, too -- but, the clouds were moving in again. We made it out without getting wet -- but no views, so we still don't have a clue what it looks like from the top. Regardless ... a good end to another perfect trip. High point: 6460' Low point: 2125 ' Total Mileage: 45.8 mi Total Gain and Loss: 14,421' See some pix here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/33792231@N00/albums/72157606928489190

PHOTOS FILMS Keep a good head and always carry a light bulb. – Bob Dylan
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greg
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PostThu Aug 30, 2007 9:20 am 
Sounds like a great trip Silence, I haven't been in the Olympics high country for a couple years and it makes me want to go back.

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ScottM
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PostThu Aug 30, 2007 9:51 am 
How are trail conditions? Going up with a WTA crew for 5 days in late September. We are going in from Slab Camp and will either go up the Upper Gray Wolf or might go up the Cameron depending on work that needs to be done.

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silence
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silence
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PostThu Aug 30, 2007 10:35 am 
Greg ... words and pix don't do it justice Jim ... R was always busy shooting with his camera; sorry, I'm not very good at flowers (guess which one is his). We were on the march up to Gray Wolf -- but saw some of the tallest Indian paints ever ... didn't know they grew that high (to the knees). Would love to hit the south side of Cameron Pass when the heather is bloomin -- it would be heaven! Scott .. the upper Gray Wolf is in excellent shape (the crews have already worked there) ... all the downed trees, except 1 in the woods below the pass (looked like maybe a recent fall) have been cleared on the trail; all foot logs are in place, except the 1st one coming down from the pass (not sure there ever was one) -- but, there's a log to shimmy across (or walk across if you have good balance) or just ford the shallow water. Cameron is also in pretty good condition -- don't remember any real issues (too late to be brushing out now). The 2 passes are what they are and always will be ... I wouldn't want to try either in the rain though -- they'd be dangerously slick.

PHOTOS FILMS Keep a good head and always carry a light bulb. – Bob Dylan
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Ancient Ambler
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PostThu Aug 30, 2007 11:48 am 
Very enticingly written TR for a great trip through some of the best terrain in the Olympics. Really enjoyed the photos and I'm glad you guys got some good weather up there, before the bad weather set in. Seems to be the way it is this summer.

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