Forum Index > Trip Reports > A Steep path to a sweet land of granite. Mt Rexford traverse
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Jeff R
Closet hiker.



Joined: 10 Apr 2005
Posts: 972 | TRs | Pics
Location: Everret
Jeff R
Closet hiker.
PostThu Sep 20, 2007 8:27 pm 
Sergio. V, and I had been wanting to do , and dreaming of doing this trip all summer. Mount Rexford, it was going to be sweet. A extended climb on amazing solid granite. But for one reason or another, we had to wait. Since patience makes it that much more worth while, it finally happened. Not having to been to Canada since I was a child, I was exited for the journey, but concerned about the border crossing. At the border and a few questions later, turned out to be no big deal, and soon enough we were on our way to the trail head. Only 50 miles away from the usual N.Cascade area which I am familiar with, I still felt like I was in a different country and enjoyed looking at all the famous peaks from their North side vantage. We drove up the rough road in my new Chevy Colorado which handled it with no problem while we passed the Mount Slesse Trail head. Then a bit further to the Mount Rexford trail head, were there was a fair amount of vehicles ( thats always a good sign). We parked the Chevy, stashed post climb beverages in the creek, and shouldered our packs. We were off like a bag of prawns in the sun, slogging up a interesting boot path surrounded by clear cut. The trail finally entered the woods where we were able to tank up on the last running water of the climb and continued straight up the mountain. Passing these awesome granite walls, reminiscent of Index.
Steep trail but worth it!
Steep trail but worth it!
Hmmm, lets get our crag on.
Hmmm, lets get our crag on.
About four miles of walking brought us to our camp for the night where we ate, drank and pondered the next days climb. Super fun! One of the best alpine camp experiences ever.
Our Camp for the night.
Our Camp for the night.
Baker and what nots from bivi.
Baker and what nots from bivi.
Granite wanderland.
Granite wanderland.
Other teams going for Rexford.
Other teams going for Rexford.
South faces of middle and main summits at evening ( there are climbers on it!)
South faces of middle and main summits at evening ( there are climbers on it!)
The all mighty Slesse.
The all mighty Slesse.
Baker evening.
Baker evening.
Around eight in the morning, we finally were on the move going towards the N.ridge of the north peak. After sleeping in, we had coffee, breakfast, and got ready for a stellar day of climbing. We traversed along talus and a dirty slope towards our objective. Oh my God! was the scrambling awesome! You could just go any where your hearts content. There was so many options and the rock was perfect! We scrambled and simu-climbed the North peak with- out a hitch, arriving at the first summit of three for the day. Now we had to down climb the first summit to gain the middle ( South peak) where it became even more interesting.
Our next challenge.
Our next challenge.
A running belay brought us both to a alcove of sorts where we decided to pitch out this chimney/splitter section. Leading this super fun, yet challenging section, brought me to the most perfect belay spot of all time! One short and sweet pitch later, we were almost on top of the middle peak. We opted against climbing the 5.8 off width crack,which would have intaled a sketchy rappel off the summit block. Instead we carried on and one rappel brought us down to the South and Main summit col. Where Sergio lead a chossy, licheny pitch that delivered us to the standard route of Rexford. Here we did some more fun scrambling up solid clean granite to gain the false summit of the main peak.
Hmmm, Slesse.
Hmmm, Slesse.
There was people enjoying the false summit who directed us to go to the right ( East side) of a rock wall to where we could do a 1/3 of a fun pitch to the main summit. The crux was this fun squeeze chimney.
Last pitch and sticking a fork in it.
Last pitch and sticking a fork in it.
This is so fun it should be illegal!
This is so fun it should be illegal!
From the summit looking back at route.
From the summit looking back at route.
We chilled at the summit for awhile soaking in the scenes and the senses until we had to rap off and head down the South West ridge back to camp where we loaded up and crunched down the trail to the truck.
Where's Prusik peak?
Where's Prusik peak?
Boulder bivis.
Boulder bivis.
What a awesome place! The rock was stellar, weather was spectacular, and routes were there for the taking. A must do peak for any alpinist, climber or hiker that loves granite!

Ebrace life!
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Magellan
Brutally Handsome



Joined: 26 Jul 2006
Posts: 13116 | TRs | Pics
Location: Inexorable descent
Magellan
Brutally Handsome
PostThu Sep 20, 2007 8:45 pm 
Very nice! Thanks for the TR Jeff.

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Mike Collins
Member
Member


Joined: 18 Dec 2001
Posts: 3086 | TRs | Pics
Mike Collins
Member
PostThu Sep 20, 2007 8:57 pm 
Klenke and I looked longingly at Rexford two weeks ago while atop American Border Peak. Thanks to your favorable report I will add it to the ever expanding list.

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Jeff R
Closet hiker.



Joined: 10 Apr 2005
Posts: 972 | TRs | Pics
Location: Everret
Jeff R
Closet hiker.
PostThu Sep 20, 2007 9:45 pm 
Magellan wrote:
Very nice! Thanks for the TR Jeff.
You are quite welcome Magellan! Its hard to write a good enough report to give this place the credit it deserves.

Ebrace life!
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Jeff R
Closet hiker.



Joined: 10 Apr 2005
Posts: 972 | TRs | Pics
Location: Everret
Jeff R
Closet hiker.
PostThu Sep 20, 2007 9:50 pm 
Mike Collins wrote:
Klenke and I looked longingly at Rexford two weeks ago while atop American Border Peak. Thanks to your favorable report I will add it to the ever expanding list.
Mike, Amer and Can border peaks looked quite impressive from this vantage as did all the N.Cascade peaks and their respective North faces. I would put it on the top ten of your list, if you like solid, clean granite! far different from the usual alpine choss that one comes to expect in most of the cascades.

Ebrace life!
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dicey
custom title



Joined: 11 May 2004
Posts: 2870 | TRs | Pics
Location: giving cornices a wider berth
dicey
custom title
PostThu Sep 20, 2007 10:10 pm 
Damn you JeffR for adding more peaks to my already expansive list!!! What was/were the date/s of this trip btw? Weather looks spectacular up.gif

I'm not always sure I like being older but being less stupid has advantages. http://www.flickr.com/photos/32121172@N00/sets/
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Dayhike Mike
Bad MFKer



Joined: 02 Mar 2003
Posts: 10958 | TRs | Pics
Location: Going to Tukwila
Dayhike Mike
Bad MFKer
PostThu Sep 20, 2007 11:02 pm 
Nice! I'm thinking we need more trip reports from B.C. wink.gif

"There is only one basic human right, the right to do as you damn well please. And with it comes the only basic human duty, the duty to take the consequences." -P.J. O'Rourke "Ignorance is natural. Stupidity takes commitment." -Solomon Short
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Jeff R
Closet hiker.



Joined: 10 Apr 2005
Posts: 972 | TRs | Pics
Location: Everret
Jeff R
Closet hiker.
PostFri Sep 21, 2007 8:01 am 
dicey wrote:
Damn you JeffR for adding more peaks to my already expansive list!!! What was/were the date/s of this trip btw? Weather looks spectacular up.gif
Sorry, I will add the dates of this trip being 9/8-9/07 Yes, this has to be on your list Dicey! A person could go back several times and enjoy each new route and have a great time. Even in the rain. clown.gif

Ebrace life!
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wildernessed
viewbagger



Joined: 31 Oct 2004
Posts: 9275 | TRs | Pics
Location: Wenatchee
wildernessed
viewbagger
PostFri Sep 21, 2007 10:23 am 
up.gif As usual good stuff Jeff. hockeygrin.gif

Living in the Anthropocene
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Jeff R
Closet hiker.



Joined: 10 Apr 2005
Posts: 972 | TRs | Pics
Location: Everret
Jeff R
Closet hiker.
PostFri Sep 21, 2007 11:01 pm 
wildernessed wrote:
up.gif As usual good stuff Jeff. hockeygrin.gif
Thanks Wild! A couple more pictures-
Exposure anyone?
Exposure anyone?
Cam meets crack, a perfect match.
Cam meets crack, a perfect match.
Our first ridge and summit from camp.
Our first ridge and summit from camp.

Ebrace life!
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