Forum Index > Trip Reports > First Divide / Elk Basin ONP 10/12-10/14/07
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silence
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PostTue Oct 16, 2007 10:57 am 
This weekend was a gift, as was the last time we were out -- only a couple of weeks ago -- on the first day of Fall. I wasn't planning to write up a TR since it was just a 3-dayer for our "soul" enjoyment, but the scenery was so spectacular I thought I should share it with those of you who just can't get enough of our endearing Olympics. When the forecast improved at the last minute we decided to try for at least one of the "fall-colors" trips we'd hope to take this year. We had it on good authority that this area might be just the ticket; plus it would probably offer much solitude; and after learning the NF was closing the road to Staircase Nov 1 ... well, First Divide and Elk Basin was a no-brainer. We were not disappointed. The long (9.6-10 mi, and 1200'+ gain, depending on your source) hike in along the N Fork Skokomish was ez enough (we made good time) and most delightful. The Skok is a fairly tame river in late season, but imagine it rages during a torrential downpour and spring melt -- there was much evidence of its power esp along the upper reaches. Now it wends gently down from its fountainhead -- offering many opportunities for river lounging in the lowlands. Grand moss-covered big leaf maples and the more refined vine maples were the bright spots along the way, and starting to drop their yellow foliage; in fact, the tread was blanketed with leaves -- conjuring up childhood memories of plowing thru fallen leaves on the way home from school; the smell of autumn was in the air. After last week's rain -- the mushrooms were abundant -- once again. We saw many new varieties -- which only slowed our pace, both coming and going. At Nine-Stream the log bridge is out -- apparently for sometime now; but, take your pick of 2 logs for the crossover -- if wet or icy either would make it a little dicey. Then came the steep switchbacks up to First Divide, which seemed much longer than the 3+ mi on the maps and in guide books. The climb was a grunt, but very scenic -- thru more old-growth forest interspersed with yellow-leafed maples, and up wet rocky steps -- in some places becoming short rivulets from melted snow. We made it to camp just in time to set up and eat before a damp fog rolled in obscuring our views for the evening. But, next morning -- not a cloud in the sky! Frost on the ground reminded us of the season. Still a little tired from the previous day, we took our time getting started -- having a leisurely breakfast and shooting many pictures. I spotted a bear on the nearby talus slopes, but he disappeared in the trees before we could grab our cameras. From the Divide we enjoyed views down the Duck and across to Mts White and LaCrosse and LaCrosse Pass, and the top of Anderson; close-ups of Steel and O'Neil (?); and far-reaching views down the Skok to Six Ridge and beyond. Unfortunately, there was no new snow left on the surrounding peaks, as we hoped. The plan for the day was to head over to Elk Basin (a little over 2 mi away) and climb Mt Hopper. The way trail winds up and down (1500' gain) thru deep forests and meadows of spent beargrass and red-leafed huckleberries, and traverses open slopes with nice vistas of Mts Skok and Henderson. In the last grassy meadow it was obvious a large herd of elk had bedded down there recently. But, none were seen or heard -- perhaps in the basin? We got to Fisher's Pass at 1 pm -- in the HEAT of the day (it was cookin'). From there the vista is awe-inspiring: beautiful little Elk Basin lies just below at the foot of Mt Hopper -- with meandering brooks and several small tarns; Mt Hopper's east slopes ablaze in fiery red and burnt orange hues; and outstanding views of Mts Stone and Lena. Tom, etal -- if reading this, check out the photo where you can see the Hagen Lakes Basin. After eating lunch we realized we didn't have enough in the tank to do the climb/scramble in the hot sun -- it looks fairly straightforward though, as board-member ethorson described earlier this season. After lots of picture-taking we headed up the south ridge a little ways to just 5161' (our high point for the trip) hoping for a more sweeping panorama east, but realizing we needed to climb much higher for that. On our return, we watched a bald eagle riding the warm air currents off Hopper. That evening was downright balmy, but sunset was uneventful (w/o clouds); stargazing was fun. Sunday morn was mild enough to go gloveless while packing up. Sunrise was awesome -- with high clouds starting to drift in. On the way out, we happened upon a goat just below the Divide -- we'd stopped for one last round of photography and to bid farewell and happy winter to this special place; Robert scanned the nearby slopes hoping to see a bear when suddenly he appeared on the ridge above ... assuming a stately pose on the rocky slope and patiently waiting for us to move on. A fitting end to our visit (since this has been the year of the goat for us -- not encountering the numbers of bears we've grown accustomed to). On our way back down to Nine Stream we saw more signs of elk on the move. It took us longer on the hike out -- stopping way too many times for all the sights we missed coming in. We finally got back to the trailhead around 5pm (forgetting about the last 1/2 mi UP to the car -- why do they always do that?) Never saw another human soul until meeting up with a friendly local couple near Spike Camp -- 3.5 mi out). And, just outside the park entrance, we passed a small herd of elk on the gravel bar -- guess, they beat us down wink.gif All in all ... a great way to enjoy the last days of Fall -- exploring the Olympics in all their splendor. It was a memorable trip, and we're sooo grateful -- not only for the autumn clear (as Shack Jim so aptly calls it), but also for such an extraordinary (and diverse) wilderness right at our doorstep. Sadly, we wish some who visit there would be a little more appreciative and respectful -- unfortunately, we came across a cache of "un-decomposed" toilet paper on the divide; it baffles us that someone who has ventured this far into the backcountry has the mindset to leave their tp lying about -- does this same person so thoughtlessly toss their tissues out the car window in the city? Totals: RT 30.2 mi, 6685' gain See more photos here: http://www.flickr.com/photos/33792231@N00/sets/72157594165382839/detail/
Near Fisher's Pass
Near Fisher's Pass

PHOTOS FILMS Keep a good head and always carry a light bulb. – Bob Dylan
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greg
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PostTue Oct 16, 2007 1:19 pm 
Gorgeous photos Kathy, I'm envious hmmm.gif

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goats gone wild
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PostTue Oct 16, 2007 1:21 pm 
What a beautiful fall trip you had. The wildlife, colors, and exploration to Hopper. Thank you for sharing your TR and all the great pictures. It was especially meaningful to me because I had planned to do that trip in August but got waylaid by others. Namely Flapjacks, Gladys, B&W and Smith. (BTW, loved your picture atop Gladys). Now that you have provided such great images and TR, I know better what to expect for next year. Sounds like Fall is perhaps the best time? So glad the weather worked out for you. up.gif Have you done the Hopper-Lake of Angels traverse?

.....leaving me wanting to return over and over in what ever capacity that may be, even if one day my knees are too old and I can only see the mountains from my porch. Jason Hummel
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reststep
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PostTue Oct 16, 2007 2:27 pm 
Great trip report and photos of one of my favorite areas. I am hoping for another break in the weather so I can go on a hike this fall out of Staircase. I missed out on getting my fall hike out of there last year because of the road closure. That is a bummer about the road being closed because the Skok is a good winter time hike also. I don't know what is going on regarding the tp being strewn about. This seems to be a fairly recent phenomenon. I have been noticing it everywhere this year. I saw it on the Mt. Townsend Trail and the Sol Duc Trail last week. I don't remember it being this bad even last year. Does anyone have any theories about this?

"The mountains are calling and I must go." - John Muir
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Backpacker Joe
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PostTue Oct 16, 2007 4:40 pm 
WOW! Ten thumbs up! up.gif up.gif up.gif up.gif up.gif up.gif up.gif up.gif up.gif up.gif

"If destruction be our lot we must ourselves be its author and finisher. As a nation of freemen we must live through all time or die by suicide." — Abraham Lincoln
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silence
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PostTue Oct 16, 2007 7:31 pm 
Thanks a bunch everyone ... really appreciate your kind words; just very fortunate being there. Greg ... next year agree.gif Jim ... I made sure we got plenty of photos for you smile.gif
goats gone wild wrote:
Have you done the Hopper-Lake of Angels traverse?
Goats ... no, have wanted to, but sounds a little tricky, at least from LOA -- Phil (on the board) tried it -- check out his post; looked pretty doable from Hopper.

PHOTOS FILMS Keep a good head and always carry a light bulb. – Bob Dylan
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goats gone wild
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PostTue Oct 16, 2007 7:49 pm 
Yeah, i was thinkin the same. Looks sketchy (for me) from the LOA approach. A friend of mine tried it a few years back in June, but it had been a heavy snow year and they decided to turn around due to no ice axes with them. LOA to Hopper is just a hike that keeps rattling around in my head. Maybe someday, during late summer season. Thanks again for your TR on First Divide/Hopper! Stupendous!

.....leaving me wanting to return over and over in what ever capacity that may be, even if one day my knees are too old and I can only see the mountains from my porch. Jason Hummel
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Phil
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PostTue Oct 16, 2007 8:51 pm 
Wow wow wow. Those pics on your flickr site just keep going and going.

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wildernessed
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PostWed Oct 17, 2007 10:11 am 
up.gif up.gif Awesome pics !

Living in the Anthropocene
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ActionBetty
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PostWed Oct 17, 2007 10:22 am 
Fantastic pics and what a gorgeous area...Thanks biggrin.gif

"If you're not living good, you gotta travel wide"...Bob Marley
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Don
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PostWed Oct 17, 2007 11:56 am 
Quote:
it baffles us that someone who has ventured this far into the backcountry has the mindset to leave their tp lying about -- does this same person so thoughtlessly toss their tissues out the car window in the city?
No. In the city they toss their cigarette butts out the window - cleanest ashtray in town! hockeygrin.gif Great TR and pics - as usual! So, it sounds like you spent your first night at Home Sweet Home? And you didn't have a bear sleeping behind you? lol.gif

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silence
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PostWed Oct 17, 2007 6:59 pm 
thanks again folks ... glad you're all enjoying the fall colors smile.gif geez don ... is there anywhere around here you haven't been?? you should write a book biggrin.gif

PHOTOS FILMS Keep a good head and always carry a light bulb. – Bob Dylan
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