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Forum Index -> Pacific NW History -> Olympic trail shelters
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RodF
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Post Sun Nov 25, 2007 7:03 am    Olympic trail shelters
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This list of 193 Olympic trail shelters is compiled from "Road and Trails of Olympic National Park" by Frederick Leissler (UW Press, 1957), various editions of Robert L. Wood's trail guides (1968-2000), USGS/ONF maps (1930-present) and USGS location database, 1930, 1933, 1941 and 1948 ONF maps, Jim Taplin's 1932 Olympic Trail Guide, Olympic NF 1936 Recreation Guides, 1957 USGS ONP map, ONP's list of classified structures and Building Log book, USGS Historical Topographic Map Collection, UW Libraries map and image collections, U Texas Libraries historic map collection, Pargeter Picture Map-Guides  and Metsker county maps.

Only 32 survive today, and are denoted with an asterisk (12 out of the original 60 in Olympic National Forest, 20 out of 133 in Olympic National Park); photos of many of these are displayed in postings below or are collected here.  161 no longer exist.  Only those shelters built or maintained by the government for public use are listed (homesteads, hunting cabins and private shelters are not listed).  This list is certainly incomplete, and likely contains errors.  Additions, corrections or questions are appreciated.

Elwha River: Lillian, Marys Falls, Baltimore, Canyon, Little Elkhorn/Stony Point, Elkhorn (two)*, Tipperary, Hayes River (two), Camp Wilder*, White Water/Chicago Camp, Happy Hollow*, Boulder Lake
Hurricane Ridge: Heart o' the Hills, Halfway Rock (two), Heather Park, Lake Angeles (two), Halfway House, Idaho, Morse Creek
Gray Wolf River: Camp Colonel, Two-Mile, Slab Camp, Camp Tony, Graywolf, Three Forks*, Deer Park (two)*, Falls, Lower Cameron, Upper Cameron, Grand Lake, Moose Lake
Dungeness River: East Crossing, Gold Creek, Royal Creek cabin, River Camp*, Camp Handy*, Boulder*, Silver Creek*, Buckhorn Lake
Quilcene River: Big Quilcene Forks, Bark Shanty, Ten Mile*, Shelter Rock, Big Canyon,  Tunnel Creek*, Sink Lake*, Last Water (Little Quil), Rainbow
Dosewallips River: Gamm/Gramm Creek, Happy Camp, Dose Forks (three), Camp Marion, Bear Camp*, Dose Meadow, Sunnybrook Meadows, Diamond Meadow, Honeymoon Meadows, Anderson Pass/Camp Siberia*
Duckabush River: Camp Collins, Little Hump, Five Mile, Ten Mile, Upper Duckabush, Marmot Lake, Hart Lake
Hamma Hamma River: Elk Lake, lower Lena Lake (two), Camp Hilligoss
North Fork Skokomish River: Big Creek (Mt Elinor Trail), Bridge Camp, Big Log, Camp Pleasant, Nine Stream, Home Sweet Home, Flapjack Lakes (two)
South Fork Skokomish River: Intermount G.S., Brown Creek C.G., Le Bar, Camp Comfort (two), Spider Lake, Church Creek*, Harps*, Steel Creek, Camp Riley, Rock Creek
Six Ridge Trail: Sundown Lake, Belview, Lake Success
Satsop River: Baker Creek (lower Middle Fork Satsop R), Neby (upper Middle Fork Satsop R), upper Satsop Lake, Canyon Creek, West Fork Satsop River
Wynoochee River: West Branch, Wynoochee G.S., Wynoochee (Big Creek), Freye Camp (Copper Creek)
Humptulips River: Campbell*. West Fork*, East Fork, Gold Spring
East Fork Quinault River: Mulkey*, Graves Creek, Graves Creek Basin, O'Neil Creek, Enchanted Valley chalet*, Enchanted Valley shelter
Lake Quinault: N. Fk. Mouth Ewells Cr.
North Fork Quinault River: Irely Lake, Wolf Bar, Rustler Creek, Halfway House, Francis Creek, Trapper*, June Creek, Twelve Mile, Big Fir, Sixteen Mile, Low Divide/Renegade (two)
Queets Skyline Trail: Three Lakes, Three Prune
Queets River: Smith Place, Spruce Bottom (two), Bob Creek, Harlow Bottom, Pelton Creek*, Tshletshy, Sams River (old, at Camp Phillips), Sams River (new)
South Fork Hoh River: 13 Mile, Big Flat, patrol cabin
Hoh River: Mt. Tom Creek, Happy Four*, Olympus (two)(one*), Olympic (Lewis?), Elk Lake (two)(one*), Blue Glacier/Glacier Meadows (two)*, Hoh Lake
Bogachiel River: Bogachiel/Indian Creek, Geodetic Hill AWS cabin, Flapjack, Fifteen Mile*, Hyak*, Twenty-One Mile
North Snider-Jackson Trail: Calawah, Sitkum, Hyas
Sol Duc River: North Fork Soleduck*, Mink Lake*, Canyon Creek/Soleduck Falls*, Upper Soleduck, Sevenmile/Soleduck Crossing, Bridge Creek/Soleduck Park, Heart Lake, Deer Lake (two)(one*), Round Lake, Lunch Lake, Oyster Lake
Lake Crescent vicinity: Sourdough Mt., Bear Creek, Deep Creek, East Twin, Pyramid Pk. AWS cabin/shelter*
Coastal: Mosquito Creek, Falls Creek/Goodman Creek, Toleak Point, Scott Creek, Cedar Creek (Third Beach), Chilean Memorial, Coastie Head, Norwegian Memorial/Kayosta Beach, Yellow Banks, south Sand Point, north Sand Point (two)
Lake Ozette: Swan Bay, South End

Edit history.  LeBar Shelter location: LeBar Creek Trail near Dry Creek Trail junction T23N R5W S19 from Metsker 1955.  Latest additions Dec. 5, 2012 Rustler Creek from 1950 USGS Mt. Christy.  Nov. 13, 2012 Big Quilcene Forks, Irely Lake, N. Fk. Mouth Ewells Cr., Wynoochee G.S., Camp Hilligoss, Rainbow from Mt. Olympus Nat'l Monument list of Jan. 29, 1935.  Pelton collapsed.  Nov. 10, 2012 June Creek cabin, N Fk Quinault, from memo, Macy to Glenn, Aug. 24, 1935.  Oct. 31, 2012 Moose Lake from 1983 Pargeter map and referenced in ONP Canyon Creek shelter National Register nomination.  Chilean Memorial, two Hayes River shelters, Smith Place cabin as shelter per ONP "Trail Shelters" memo of Dec. 2, 1976.  Two Halfway Rock shelters, from 1994 Metsker map (which also depicts the Heart o' the Hills shelter on the Lake Creek trail, and Little Hump shelter on the Duckabush).  June 24, 2012 Tipperary Camp (1/2 mi N of Hayes on Elwha) from 1957 USGS.  Toleak collapsed.  June 15, 2012 Freye Camp (at/near Wynoochee Falls CG) from 1936 ONF Rec Guide No. 13, Quinault.  March 29, 2012 Falls Creek (Third Beach).  Jan. 29, 2012 Happy Camp (Dose), Bridge Camp (N Fk Skok) 1933 ONF.  Jan 16, 2012 S Fk Hoh patrol cabin/shelter from 1968 ONF.  Jan 9, 2012 13 Mile (S Fk Hoh) from 1943 USGS Spruce Mtn.  Rock Creek from 1949 Quilcene RD Olympic NF map.  Jan 5, 2012 Gold Spring (Pete's Creek below jct Col Bob) from 1953 Olympic NF map, Little Elkhorn (Elwha) from 1948 ONF map.  Dec 30, 2011 Lake Success from 1936 Olympic NF Trail Riders Trip Recreation Guide; Hyas (North Snider-Jackson Trail) from 1936 Olympic NF Lake Crescent Recreation Area Guide and 1941 ONF; West Fork Satsop River from 1936 Olympic NF Hood Canal Recreation Area Guide, Olympic (Lewis?, Hoh R.) from 1941 ONF.  Dec 21, 2011 East Crossing, Last Water (Little Quil), Le Bar from Taplin 1932.  Nov 30, 2011 Intermount/Brown Point (at today's Brown Creek CG, S Fk Skok), ONP HSR p 38.  Oct 22, 2011 Heart o' the Hills by Klahhanes, PDN 9/26/33.  Aug 23, 2011 Elk Lake from Mount Constance 1938.  Aug 19, 2011 Deep Creek, East Twin from Metsker 1942 and ONF 1941.  Jun 25, 2011 Morse Creek, Harlow Bottom from Taplin 1932.  Jun 24, 2011: Honeymoon Meadows, Buckhorn Lake, Big Creek, Graves Creek, Big Flat, Hyas, Bear Creek from 1941 ONF map.  Feb 15, 2010: Shelter Rock, Sunnybrook Meadows from 1933 ONF map.  Nov 19, 2009: Swan Bay and South End (Lake Ozette) from 1957 ONF map.   Jan 1, 2009: West Branch Wynoochee, upper Satsop Lake.  Dec 27, 2008: Camp Collins, Little Hump, Gramm Creek, Big Log from 1930 ONF map.  June 24, 2008: Camp Riley.  Destroyed Dec 3, 2007 flood: 12 Mile, Nov 2006 burned: Falls

"Shelters are an organic part of Olympic Wilderness." - Dr. Paul Gleeson, emeritus acting Chief Archaeologist, National Park Service.
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dicentra
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Post Sun Nov 25, 2007 7:34 am   
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I worked on the park's compliance survey for the Home Sweet Home shelter (in 2003?). The shelter itself is built and sitting in the Elwha. There is another shelter there as well. That one is for Low Divide.

There must be some political hang up for the shelters to have been sitting there for so long. I think right now the park is only replacing (and repairing) shelters that are currently in the park.

I found the E/A for the shelters, but that doesn't answer the question:
http://www.nps.gov/archive/olym/ea/shelter_repair/sec5.htm

To add to your list:
Elwha: Humes Ranch and Michael's (Cougar Mike's) cabin are still there, and under repairs.

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RodF
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Post Sun Nov 25, 2007 8:13 am   
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dicentra wrote:
There must be some political hang up for the shelters to have been sitting there for so long.

There certainly is a "political hangup".  See Olympic Parks Associates' proud victory announcement, a possible solution to which has been recently discussed here.  That's what prompted me to try to compile this list.

We've lost 3/4 of the shelters over the last 50 years, have recently continued to lose them at a rate of almost one per year (Falls, Home Sweet Home, Low Divide, 21 Mile, ...), some are in dire condition (Wilder, Pelton, ...), and one must wonder how many may survive in another 50 years?   shakehead.gif

dicentra wrote:
To add to your list:
Elwha: Humes Ranch and Michael's (Cougar Mike's) cabin are still there, and under repairs.

I left these historic homesteads off this list, as the Park doesn't allow them to be used as shelters (except in an emergency).  I also left Crisler's and others' cabins off this list, as they weren't built or maintained for public use.  Just concentrating on trail shelters.  Note that several shelters were built near ONF Guard or ONP Ranger stations of the same name, but were separate three-sided trail shelters (e.g. Bogachiel, Elkhorn, Low Divide, etc.).
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dicentra
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Post Sun Nov 25, 2007 8:36 am   
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[quote="RodF"]
dicentra wrote:


dicentra wrote:
To add to your list:
Elwha: Humes Ranch and Michael's (Cougar Mike's) cabin are still there, and under repairs.

I left these historic homesteads off this list, as the Park doesn't allow them to be used as shelters (except in an emergency). 

Actually that is true for ALL of the shelters in the park. They used to say at the WIC "shelters are for emergency use only. Weather is not an emergency"

That doesn't include B/C ranger stations (like Olympus Guard Station).

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RodF
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Post Sun Nov 25, 2007 8:42 am   
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HJT wrote:
As of 2001, the Twelve Mile and Trapper shelters were still standing on the North Fork Quinault. The Low Divide Shelter was still there, but was collasped as of 2001. So put an asterick on the first two.

Done!  Thanks.

HJT wrote:
The Bear Camp Shelter on the Dosewallips is in very poor condition as of 2001, I don't know if its been worked on since then.

The Camp Wilder Shelter is is poor condition.

Bear Camp stands unchanged, as of September.  Wilder has two walls standing, and Duck (ONP's backcountry carpenter) says it's on his "to-do" list, but he has doubts whether any of the timbers are solid enough to save.
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strider
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Post Sun Nov 25, 2007 5:41 pm   
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There was also a coastal shelter North of Cedar Point, about midway between Cedar and the memorial.  It was a typical notched log construction and very small, perhaps 12 x 12 feet.  It was in GREAT shape when I saw it in the mid- 1980's, then the next year the ground was bare as though the shelter had never existed at all.

Ah, the wisdom of the park service never ceases to amaze.

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RodF
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Post Mon Nov 26, 2007 12:38 am   
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HJT wrote:
...I thought there used to be a shelter at Honeymoon Meadows on the West Fork Dosewallips...

If anyone knows about a Honeymoon Meadow shelter, please let me know.

HJT wrote:
What about the WWII lookout on the headland just south of Starbuck Mine on the Olympic Coast? It's still standing as of 2005.

Don't forget the shelter at Cedar Creek on the Olympic Coast. It's been destroyed for about 15 years now.

Coastie Head and Cedar Creek shelter, according to Molvar's book.  Thanks!

strider wrote:
There was also a coastal shelter North of Cedar Point, about midway between Cedar and the memorial.  It was a typical notched log construction and very small, perhaps 12 x 12 feet.

Kayosta Beach shelter was listed in Leissler's book, but I missed it.  Thanks!
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RodF
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Post Mon Nov 26, 2007 1:12 am   
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dicentra wrote:
Actually that is true for ALL of the shelters in the park. They used to say at the WIC "shelters are for emergency use only. Weather is not an emergency"

Not according to Park regulations:

Quote:
Overnight use of the following backcountry structures is prohibited except in emergencies:
The Trapper Shelter, 12 Mile Shelter, Low Divide Shelter and Enchanted Valley Shelter in the Quinault.
The Pelton Creek Shelter in the Queets.
The Happy Four Shelter, Olympus Guard Shelter, Elk Lake, and Glacier Meadows Shelter in the Hoh.
Sol Duc Falls shelter in the Sol Duc.
Toleak Shelter in the Ozette District.
Determining Factors: Based on the Backcountry Management Plan these structures are managed with the intention that they would be used in emergency situations only.

That leaves several shelters within Olympic National Park open for overnight public use: North Fork Sol Duc, Anderson Pass/Camp Siberia, Deer Park, Bear Camp, Hyak, Fifteen Mile...   and they are used.

Plus those in Olympic National Forest, restored by the volunteer Friends of Olympic Shelters.
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dicentra
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Post Mon Nov 26, 2007 9:56 am   
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Cool find!

I'd be tempted to stay in the shelters... If it wasn't for the mice!  paranoid.gif

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mossy mom
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Post Mon Nov 26, 2007 5:42 pm   
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The topo map on my GPS shows a lot of shelters that are now gone such as the one at Spider Lake.
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geobob
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Post Tue Nov 27, 2007 10:56 pm   
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Here's a photo of the Dose Meadows Ranger Station taken in 1932.


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geobob
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Post Wed Nov 28, 2007 10:49 pm   
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The 1932 picture of the Dose Meadows RS was taken by my father on a trip with 5 friends; they traveled up the Dosewallips, over Hayden Pass, down the Hayes River trail, up the Elwha, over Low Divide, down the North Fork Quinault, up the Quinault, and out the Skokomish.  I don't know for sure what route they followed going from the Quinault to the Skokomish, but I imagine it was up Graves Creek and down Six Ridge.

The only other picture of a structure from that trip is of Low Divide Chalet.  Here it is:


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RPBrown
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Post Thu Nov 29, 2007 9:32 am   
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GeoBob,
Wow, very impressive photo of the Low Divide Chalet.  That's the best one I've ever seen.  I don't think it was there very long was it?  As I recall it was wiped out by an avalanche.

Is your family from over on the Peninsula?

I've got tons of really old slides from around 1905 on that I need to scan one of these days.  I also have a lot of original pictures from the Tubal Cain & Tull City mine operations.  One of these days...

Thanks for sharing.
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greg
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Post Thu Nov 29, 2007 10:09 am   
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Yes, amazing photos Geobob, I like the vareity of hats worn by the guys in the Dose Meadows shot. Hope you are preserving those photos in some fashion.

Also, not sure how relevant this is, but there used to be a shelter at Scott's Bluff on the north beach hike, I stayed in it once in the 70s.
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geobob
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Post Thu Nov 29, 2007 11:01 am   
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I don't know anything about the history of the Low Divide Chelet.  Hopefully, someone here knows something and will post it.

My father grew up in Bremerton and was a boy scout in the late 1920s and spent quite a bit of time at Camp Parsons. That's what got him started hiking in the Olympics and it continued in the 1930s after he had finished with the scouts.  Unfortunately, he moved away from Washington in the late 1930s.

I have "tons" of family negatives and photos from the 19-ohs through the 30s as well as a lot of more recent slides that I'm gradually scanning.  I wish I had more pictures from the hiking trips.  Oh well.

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