[Martin S]

Liberty Cap (14,112 ft) is the northern sub-summit of Mt. Rainier. Scarcely visible from Seattle because it's viewed in-line with the main summit, Liberty Cap can be seen as a distinct peaklet when the mountain is viewed from the east or west. Rising 472 ft above the saddle connecting it to Columbia Crest, the prominence purists will call it a peak in its own right and thus it's the second highest peak in the state. A friend from work had a group going to climb Rainier, and since he'd been to the main summit before, I talked him into letting me join them and the two of us would split off for a side trip to Liberty Cap. On Saturday we made the uneventful slog up to Camp Schurman and settled in, enjoying the sunset.

Sunset from Schurman

Little Tahoma and moon

Goat Island Mtn, Cowlitz Chimneys, Aix

Sunday we lounged around camp, resting and hoping for a little acclimitization. Monday morning we got up at midnight and under way by 1:00. The moon set at around 2:45 leaving us in deep darkness for the routefinding crux of the climb, a spot where descending climbers the previous day told us to not follow the main boot track to the left because it led to an impasse where many parties were forced to turn around. The stars and meteors were spectacular. Somehow we sniffed out a route that worked in the darkness, and sunrise found us at about 13,000 ft.

Sunrise at 13,000 ft, Emmons Glacier

We thought about traversing right high on the Emmons to traverse directly into the saddle below Liberty Cap, but it looked like some steep sidehilling with some possible crevasses so we continued on the main track until just above the bergschrund (an awkward 4 ft step) and the angle eased off a bit at about 13,800. We then traversed above the 'schrund, cramponing on firm ice, to where we could see an easy descent into the saddle. From there it was an easy one-mile stroll with 500 ft of elevation gain to the top of Liberty Cap. But that 'stroll' took quite an effort, with our un-acclimitized lungs wheezing at 14,000 ft and after gaining nearly 5000 ft already that morning. Fortunately, a party had just topped out on Liberty Ridge and left us some tracks to follow for part of the way. We arrived at the summit at 8:30 am, with 30 mph winds and temps in the mid-teens.

On Liberty Cap, with Columbia Crest behind

Liberty Cap

Trudge back from Liberty Cap towards main crater

We tried to make radio contact with the rest of the team, seen standing on the main summit, but the wind was making too much noise. Earlier we had thought about running up to the main summit and returning that way, but the 800 ft climb to Columbia Crest seemed daunting so we returned the way we came. The valley between the two summits is a spectacular spot with wind-carved snow formations. It has the distinction of being the only valley in the state with fourteeners on either side.

Returning from Liberty Cap, main summit to the right.

Liberty Cap

Traverse below Columbia Crest

We met up with the rest of the team at the bottleneck at the 'schrund and descended back to camp, packed up, and trudged out. Sadly, the snow on the Inter glacier was too soft for glissading so we had to post-hole our way down. Made it home without falling asleep at the wheel; crammed in dinner/shower/beer and was asleep within 10 minutes of walking in the door.

[Ingunn]

Fantastic photos! I've been having trouble sleeping lately, I guess a quick run up Rainier is what I need

[Coasty]

Great photos. We were up there the same time coming from the DC. Weather was stellar. Congrats on your trip! Jason

[Magellan]

Great stuff!

[Ascention]

Love the pics from above the clouds... GORGEOUS!!!

[blastoh]

fantastic! makes me want to get up above the clouds again.

[Slide Alder Slayer]

Well Done!

[Stefan]

you peakbagger!

[Tom_Sjolseth]

Sweet, Martin! Very nice photos.