[Mike Collins]

Martin Shetter planted the seed of state highpoints in my mind last summer. Together we climbed the tallest peaks of WY (Gannett), MT (Granite), and UT (Kings). Two months ago I climbed OR (Hood) and Hawaii (Mona Kea). Denali is in a class of its own however. It is a world-class summit and at the final camp of 17,000 ft I heard Korean, Croatian, Spanish, Danish, and Japanese spoken as evidence of its global attraction. To stand at the point where North America runs out of earth was my goal for this year. Like Martin I opted for the assistance of a guide service in making the summit a reality. A guide company takes care of the logistics involved like food, ropes, tent, sleds, and air taxi to the jumpoff glacier. That put me in charge of my clothing, sleeping bag, afternoon snacks, and drinks. Of course the biggest responsibility I had was to be strong enough for what proved to be the most physically challenging endeavor of my life. On June 17 we arrived by ski plane to land at 7,000 ft on the Kahiltna Glacier. Our route would be the West Buttress of Denali pioneered by the late Bradford Washburn's team in 1951. It was 1800 in the evening but we rested in our sleeping bags before we commenced our upclimb at 0130. The snow on the glacier would be firmer then and easier work for our snowshoeing. From here to the top our party was roped together. Initially this was comprised of two rope teams, a guide and three clients for each. We had practiced crevasse rescue while in Talkeetna as we would pass numerous crevasses on the way up. The Kahiltna Glacier is the longest in the Alaska Range. It is ~50 miles long and the guide told me it moves at 50 ft/yr. Our method of climbing involved utilizing the maxim "Climb High, Sleep Low." This is done to facilitate acclimatization. Following that practice worked for me. Aside from a trivial headache at 11,000 ft I did not have symptoms of High Altitude Cerebral Edema (HACE). We had a pattern of upclimbing during the day with light pack to ferry and cache food supplies before retreating to a lower elevation tent. We spent three days at 11,000 ft and five days at 14,200 ft before settling into our high camp at 17,200 ft. Our snowshoes were cached at 11,000 ft and crampons worn thereafter. While at 14,200 camp we would contact another team with the same guide service every evening at 2000. The team above us spent eight days at the 17,200 ft high camp without a break in the weather to allow for a summit bid. We met the saddened group on their unsuccessful retreating downclimb. Above the 14,200 ft camp there are fixed lines on which we used ascenders to Jumar up to 16,200 ft. The snow angles here are ~40 degrees and my experience in the Cascades was ample training for any technical rope workwork on the fixed lines. Camp V at 17,200 ft would be our final camp. After reaching high camp we rested for a day for further acclimatization and to replenish nutrient stores which would be tapped into. During the night the temps were -10 degrees F which would warm up to 10 degrees during the day. If you kept moving these temps were workable but further layers like down pants and parka would be needed when stopping to rest. We left camp at 1000 on July 2nd for the summit 1.75 miles and 3000 vertical feet away. We reached Denali Pass at 18,200 ft some 2 hrs later. There were now two guides for four clients as two members left the party at the 14,200 ft camp. At Denali Pass one climber's headache progressed to vomitting and he needed to descend with a guide. So the two rope teams merged into one with a guide and three climbers heading off for the summit. We met three climbers who were descending and they told us the winds and blowing snow further up prevented their advancement. The guide was solicitous of our input. I told him that we hadn't met an impasse yet and if we did then would be the time to turn around. The situation improved and we climbed higher in pleasant conditions. The winds of 20 MPH made a balaclava and goggles necessary but I don't remember any difficulties. At that altitude in oxygen deprived air the neurons don't fire at the same time so my recollection is blunted slightly. When we summited at ~1800 in clear skies my initial feeling was one of relief as I didn't have to go up anymore. It was over. After that release I enjoyed the views of the surrounding landscape and scooped up a little snow with my ice axe. Letting it melt in my mouth allows me to think that a little bit of Denali will always be a part of me. Our descent to 17,200 ft took another four hours. A personal thanks to Stefan who lent me his down parka (it now has been to the top three times) and wildernessed who lent me his Dana Design backpack. Without their help I probably would have still made the top but at a greater cost for sure. I will post any photos when they become available.

[Backpacker Joe]

Wow Mike. What a fantastic story. Congratulations on your accomplishment. cant wait for the pictures.

[bobbi]

congrats! i was in anchorage during your ascent to denali. looking forward to seeing your photos i smiled when i read that you scooped some snow and let it melt in your mouth to have a bit of denali within you. no peeing

[wildernessed]

Mike your incredible and an inspiration. Can't wait for the pics. Congratulations.

[Ancient Ambler]

That is a huge accomplishment. I'm glad the weather cooperated for you. I'm hoping the skies were clear on top and you've got a bunch of photos you'll be willing to share with us.

[Layback]

Congrats Mike. Way to go! Which guide service did you use? Looks like you've got the big one done!

[Mike Collins]

I went with Alaska Mountaineering School. They have knowledgable guides who have have the right stuff to help you get to the top.

[Mega-Will]

Kick ass Mike! Didn't know you were up here in the nordlands too. What day did you summit? I was on a flightseeing trip with my parents on Saturday, July 5, and that was the only really nice day (I think) in the last 10 or 12. So I'm wondering if we were looking up at you guys.

[GeoTom]

So, what state highpoints do you have left for all 50? I heard Florida is a real tough one.

[Mike Collins]

My summit day was July 2nd. I caught the first plane off the glacier at 0730 on July 4th. I was home in Bellevue for the fireworks in the evening of July 4th. We must have set a speed descent record as we lost 13,000 ft over twenty miles on July 3rd. I think the guide wanted to see his girlfriend. I have only climbed eight state highpoints. Many of the highpoints are wheelchair accessible so I can manage to take my time.

[puzzlr]

Nice job. Good thing you didn't turn around at the news of high winds but checked it out for yourself.

[dkemp]

Congrats!

[Schmidt Alti-Dude]

Epic!

[Magellan]

Great stuff Mike! I hope you can get some pictures up.

[Tom_Sjolseth]

Whoa, just got back from the Pickets.. CONGRATULATIONS, Mike!!!