[trailjunky]

I had a few days off so I decided to check with my brother to see if our schedules would jive, well they did! Where to go? Lots of locations came about but we are still limited by snow conditions in some places. Connor needed to log miles to prepare for his trek of the John Muir trail in a couple of weeks, so we were looking for something with good mileage. After a call to a few ranger stations it sounded like the 25 mile loop through the Siamese Lakes in the proposed Great Burn Wilderness Area along the Bitterroot Divide would be the ticket. The alarm sounded about 4:15am and after the routine stop at Safeway for the days lunch, some bagels, and lattes we were on the way. Once over Fourth of July, and Lookout Pass we located exit 66 for Fish Creek Road, and eventually the trailhead at Clearwater Crossing Campground, a popular place for horse packers. The entire drive to the trailhead was under overcast skies with the constant threat of rain. The forecast called for a 30 percent chance of thundershowers so the raingear was always at the ready, but I must admit, it was nice to have cool temps for the beginning of our long haul into Lower Siamese Lake. On the trail by 10am we picked up the main trail #101 up West Fork Fish Creek. The creek was pretty swollen, running the banks full with little to no option for crossing without a crotch high ford through swift water, not a good sign. Once across the hiker only suspension bridge we went right at the first unsigned intersection. The forest canopy was impressive, a lot more lush than I expected, which was a real treat. It didn’t take long to reach the first and only crossing of the West Fork on a sturdy bridge about 3 miles in. After dropping the packs we took a quick break to rehydrate before getting back on the trail. Just beyond the bridge we passed the perfect swimming/fishing hole. We were both a little disappointed we didn’t have time to wet a line considering we were attempting the loop and wouldn’t be back to enjoy it later. Beyond the fishing hole we passed a couple of trail junctions but always stuck to the main trail leading toward Foley Basin. At about five miles we reached the largest avalanche chute I had ever seen, its amazing what mother nature is capable of, very impressive. Not long past the avalanche we began hitting the cedar groves, which grew more impressive the further back we traveled. This trail has some of the best old growth cedar groves I’d seen in the Inland Northwest. Its amazing these giants were able to survive the fire of 1910 that swept through the area wiping out 3 millions acres in just 2 days! After a little over 6 miles we stopped near one of our numerous creek crossing to enjoy a quick lunch. To this point the creek crossings were becoming a nuisance, and would continue to stay that way throughout the rest of the trip, it was becoming almost impossible to not get water over your boot tops. Approaching the nine mile mark the trail began with the switchbacks, none of which appeared on the USGS map or in the guide book. The grade was always gentle along the climb, and if it wouldn’t have been for the chin high brush and blow downs it would have been a breeze. Once through the switchbacks we reached a Y and went right at the unsigned junction for Lower Siamese Lake. Not far past the turn we reached the headwall of Foley Basin in a parkland meadow amongst wildflowers and tall cliffs. After crossing the only significant snowfield we doglegged right and began our climb, past lupine, to a small insignificant pass/shoulder. It was here were the views began to open up down the valley we had just climbed, it was awesome. Connor and I both expected to find wildlife foraging in the meadows below, though we never saw anything. We knew we weren’t alone, tracks from deer, elk, wolf/coyote, and a rather large cougar were all along the trail, but that’s Montana for you. Once over the pass/shoulder we made a couple of ups and downs past snow patches before making the final climb over a knoll to our first views of Lower Siamese Lake. Once over the outlet stream we were finally in camp. At first I wasn’t too impressed, but I had just traveled 12.5 miles with over 3,000 feet of elevation gain. About the only thing I was impressed with at that point was a nice sized log to put my tired ass on. After having a chance to rest I pitched my tent next a rather large bear track, ate some dinner, and hung my food. At this point the area was beginning to grow on me, the view from where our bear line hung was impressive. The west end of the lake held a decent cascade carrying melt water from the upper lake, and above that, the Bitterroot Divide. Lower Siamese Lake is a rather large lake, not something I was used to finding in the high alpine country. Back in camp we were too tired to make a fire, and enjoyed a couple gin fizz before calling it quits and retiring to a rather chilly night in my 45 degree bag.

Connor crosses the West Fork Fish Creek on the hiker only suspension bridge, proposed Great Burn Wilderness Area, Montana.

West Fork Fish Creek, proposed Great Burn Wilderness Area, Montana.

West Fork Fish Creek, proposed Great Burn Wilderness Area, Montana.

Creek crossing along the West Fork Fish Creek, proposed Great Burn Wilderness Area, Montana.

Swimming/fishing hole along the West Fork Fish Creek, proposed Great Burn Wilderness Area, Montana.

Avalanche debris, along the West Fork Fish Creek, proposed Great Burn Wilderness Area, Montana.

Connor along one of the many old growth cedar groves of the West Fork Fish Creek, proposed Great Burn Wilderness Area, Montana.

Ascending out of the Foley Basin, toward the Siamese Lakes, proposed Great Burn Wilderness Area, Montana.

Ascending out of the Foley Basin, toward the Siamese Lakes, proposed Great Burn Wilderness Area, Montana.

Unnamed creek along the trail to the Siamese Lakes, proposed Great Burn Wilderness Area, Montana.

Looking into the Foley Basin of the West Fork Fish Creek, proposed Great Burn Wilderness Area, Montana.

West Fork Fish Creek, proposed Great Burn Wilderness Area, Montana.

West Fork Fish Creek, proposed Great Burn Wilderness Area, Montana.

Looking into the Foley Basin of the West Fork Fish Creek, proposed Great Burn Wilderness Area, Montana.

After a cold night of little sleep I was excited to awake the next morning to blue skies and sun. It didn’t take long to work myself out of the coffin of a one man tent, and find my way into the warm sunshine. Ahhh, much better. Once warmed, I collected my sore body and made the 100 yard climb to the food cache atop the silver snag overlooking camp. Back in camp I fixed a breakfast of warm coffee, pop tarts, and cashews. Approaching 10am Connor and I decided it was time explore the upper lake, and eventually the Bitterroot Divide along the Idaho Montana state line. With a days provisions we made our way past the food cache following a faint boot path along the north shore of the lower lake. The trail was touch and go at times with most of the route toward the upper lake cross-country. Once around the lake we made a short climb over the headwall just below a ridge on the upper lakes north side before descending a short way to its outlet. Once at the lake we took in the views from a solid rock half submerged in the frigid body of water. The south side of the lake was still inundated with snow which still appears to be calving off into the water. After a short lunch we left the lake behind and headed cross-country to the ridge line above the lakes north shore. Once on the ridge we followed game trails whenever possible to the Bitterroot Divide and trail #738. After taking in the views from a high point we decided to follow the good trail north toward more views and the Straight Creek drainage. Once on the ridge I was surprised to find lingering cornices from the heavy snow pack we received last winter. The divide trail was in good shape with wildflowers all around. After covering a good distance we picked a high point in the ridge above Straight Lake as our turnaround point. Once atop the rocky pinnacle, elevation 7,322 feet, we were rewarded with an amazing view. We were now 4,000 feet above the trailhead taking in a view that seamed to stretched forever. The entire Clearwater Mountain Range lay to the south as well as peaks as far as the eye could see in Montana. The best view was down Straight Lake, along the Straight Creek drainage, and across the valley toward Straight Peak, and Crater Mountain. We took another lengthily break here before saying our goodbyes and returning south toward Upper Siamese Lake. Once above the lake Connor suggested we walk the ridge above the two lakes toward Chilkoot Pass then descend a steep ridge running north/south from the lower lake, foolishly I agreed. The going was good at first and the ridge walk was a nice addition to the trek giving us breathtaking views above both the upper and lower lake. At a point near the top of the ridge we decided to traverse around a summit to avoid the unneeded gain in elevation. Once around the peak we discovered steep impassable cliffs. Realizing we would have to regain the ridge we took a minute to observe a small harem of elk utilizing one of the few game trails we traveled while ascending to the upper lake on our way toward divide. I remember being envious of those elk as they traveled so freely while we were now side hilling a 50+ degree trailless slope. We pushed on, regaining the ridge where we picked up a narrow game trail that forced us north onto the backside of the ridge over snow slope and through dense forest high above the danger of the cliffs below. Traveling along the ridge we soon realized there would be no easy route of descent, and it seemed that Lower Siamese was getting smaller and smaller, not good. We were both beginning to get a little irritated at this point. It was taking longer than expected to return to camp, and on top of that the hot spots from side hilling were beginning to concern both of us. We decided to abandon the ridge, and plunge straight down toward the lower lake far below. The going was rough. I crashed several times trying to get purchase on the steep grassy slope. Not long after leaving the ridge we were forced to traverse above a steep cliff, not comfortable with the exposure I was extremely careful about keeping three points of contact at all times. Once through the cliffs we both let out a big sigh of relief before continuing straight down. After what felt like forever we were back in camp. After dropping everything except our shorts we dove head first into the frigid waters of Lower Siamese Lake, battered and bruised the water felt great. Back on shore we grabbed our poles and played several nice sized cuttys before calling it quits to grab dinner and collect a little fire wood. That night we had a roaring fire over some gin fizz before each grabbing a hot rock to take to bed with us. Thant night I slept like a baby, and awoke the next morning next to my still warm rock.

Lower Siamese Lake, proposed Great Burn Wilderness, Bitterroot Divide, Montana.

Lower Siamese Lake, proposed Great Burn Wilderness, Bitterroot Divide, Montana.

Lower Siamese Lake, proposed Great Burn Wilderness, Bitterroot Divide, Montana.

Lower Siamese Lake, proposed Great Burn Wilderness, Bitterroot Divide, Montana.

Lower Siamese Lake, proposed Great Burn Wilderness, Bitterroot Divide, Montana.

Lower Siamese Lake, proposed Great Burn Wilderness, Bitterroot Divide, Montana.

Lower Siamese Lake, proposed Great Burn Wilderness Area, Bitterroot Divide, Montana.

Lower Siamese Lake, proposed Great Burn Wilderness Area, Bitterroot Divide, Montana.

Lower Siamese Lake, proposed Great Burn Wilderness Area, Bitterroot Divide, Montana.

Lower Siamese Lake, proposed Great Burn Wilderness Area, Bitterroot Divide, Montana.

Upper Siamese Lake, proposed Great Burn Wilderness Area, Bitterroot Divide, Montana.

Upper Siamese Lake, proposed Great Burn Wilderness Area, Bitterroot Divide, Montana.

Upper Siamese Lake from near the ridge, proposed Great Burn Wilderness, Bitterroot Divide, Montana.

Upper Siamese Lake from near the ridge, proposed Great Burn Wilderness, Bitterroot Divide, Montana.

The Straight Creek drainage from near our high point along the Bitterroot Divide between Idaho and Montana.

Looking north along the Bitterroot Divide between Idaho and Montana.

The state line along the Bitterroot Divide between Idaho and Montana.

Silver snags along the Bitterroot Divide between Idaho and Montana.

Connor ascends the steep trail to our high point along the Bitterroot Divide between Idaho and Montana.

Straight Lake and the Straight Creek drainage from our high point along the Bitterroot Divide between Idaho and Montana.

Looking north along the Bitterroot Divide between Idaho and Montana.

The ridge acended along trail #738 along the Bitterroot Divide between Idaho and Montana.

Trail #738 along the Bitterroot Divide between Idaho and Montana.

Upper Siamese Lake from the ridge, proposed Great Burn Wilderness, Bitterroot Divide, Montana.

Upper Siamese Lake from the ridge, proposed Great Burn Wilderness, Bitterroot Divide, Montana.

Lower Siamese Lake from the ridge, proposed Great Burn Wilderness, Bitterroot Divide, Montana.

We awoke early Friday, before sunrise. Connor fixed a fire while I ran for the food. Back in camp we had a quick breakfast before breaking camp about 7:30am. We had already decided to avoid completing the loop out Straight Creek over Chilcoot Pass, and to instead return the way we had came. With the creeks still swollen with snow runoff we decided to play it safe, and avoid the at least six thigh deep creek crossings of Straight Creek. Plus, heading out the way we came in would allow us to pass back through those awesome cedar groves and perhaps wet a line in that swimming/fishing hole. After filtering water we were back on the trail. We made quick work of the decent and reached that fishing hole about 12:15pm. We decided to have lunch, and neither of us couldn’t resist the urge to get in a few casts. After filling the bellies and catching a few trout we packed up and made the last three mile slog back to the suspension bridge were I decided to stay dry and Connor opted for the ford. Watching him cross the creek helped reassure our decision to hike out the way we came in, that water looked high and cold. Back at the truck we found our six pack of Henry’s in the cooler still cold. We dropped the tailgate on the pickup after unpacking and enjoyed a few cold ones while exchanging wilderness experiences with an old horse packer from the St. John area, just south of Spokane. Back on the road we made our way past the biggest recorded ponderosa pine in Montana and a moose before finding Interstate 90, and eventually Spokane.

Largest ponderosa pine in all of Montana.

Largest ponderosa pine in all of Montana.

Moose near trailhead, Bitterroot Mountains, Montana.

Moose near trailhead, Bitterroot Mountains, Montana.

The proposed Great Burn Wilderness is a must see for anyone looking for a true wilderness experience. We hiked over 30 miles in three days and never saw a single soul, and that’s the way I like it. Wouldn’t you agree?

[drilldaddyo]

Awsome report! Thanks! Randy

[harrymalamute]

i am so jealous.i've been eyeballin this one for awhile. when cole indicated you were on a 30miler some how my subconscious thought of this trip.must be like my father often tells me,"brilliant minds think alike".

[Movenhike]

That's really cool. I drove over Lolo Pass and down the Lochsa yesterday and wondered what the high country in that area was like. Those pics of Foley Basin and the upper lake are great.

[Malachai Constant]

I have been interested n that area ever since reading Lewis and Clark's journals