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John Morrow Member
Joined: 03 Apr 2007 Posts: 1526 | TRs | Pics Location: Roslyn |
I rarely have the energy for such a trip after a work week but my good friend Justin made me an offer I couldn't refuse. I've been wanting this trip for years.
I tried to include pictures that give folks a good idea of the routefinding.
Tues. we went in on a hot day,
first view of the objectives:Looking Back
Wed. approach:Getting started
Justin at end of West Ridge pitch 1:Top of the Class 3/4 start
View of pitch 2Pitch 2 of Class 3/4
Justin holding up the obelisk precariously:Start of traverse to summit pitches
View of crux pitch:5.4 pitch
Pitch 4 class 2 traverse:Walk across to base of 5.4 pitch
justin leading pitch 5, just above 5.4 crux:The only Class 5
The summit:Summit short pitch.
Pitch 3 variation of fun cracks on the north side:looking back, puckered me a bit on the ascent.
Rapping pitch 3:Rappel of Pitches 1 and 2
Rapping Pitches 1 and 2:Rappelling Sherpa Peak's West Ridge
Pitches 1 and 2 from start:
Route from back at saddle
Evening at camp:
Ingalls Creek scene
Day 2 approach:Start to Argonaut
The fun Class 2/3 south gully of Argonaut:
"Classic" class 3 gully scrambling to base of route Base of a short Class 4 pitch ahead
Class 3/4 crux of Argonaut:Rope really not necessary, only Class 4 move The move
Justin on Argonaut:Summit!
Rapping the Argonaut crux 70 feet:Rappelof the Class 4 move
Last look down the slabby gully on the descent:An alternative we didn't take
Thanks Justin for helping me motivate to get it done even if a bit tired from the weekend.
This was an awesome wild feeling trip in the hills. I'll give route details later but Sherpa's West Ridge is very straightforward with single rope rappels and good belays at every rap station.
Argonaut would be THE classic long solid class 2/3 scramble if it weren't for the 75 foot crux shallow chimney. It is very easy and safe for a beginning rope-work trip. A single rope is more than long enough for the rap through the chimney on the descent.
“Tell me, what is it you plan to do with your one wild and precious life?”-Mary Oliver
“A nation that continues year after year to spend more money on military defense than on programs of social uplift is approaching spiritual doom.”
― MLK Jr.
“Tell me, what is it you plan to do with your one wild and precious life?”-Mary Oliver
“A nation that continues year after year to spend more money on military defense than on programs of social uplift is approaching spiritual doom.”
― MLK Jr.
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kleet meat tornado
Joined: 06 Feb 2002 Posts: 5303 | TRs | Pics Location: O no they dih ent |
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kleet
meat tornado
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Fri Aug 08, 2008 2:29 pm
Re: [TR] Aug 5-7, 2008 Sherpa Pk (8605'), Argonaut Pk (8453')
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John Morrow wrote: | Justin on Argonaut:Summit! |
What a cool perspective of Stuart!
A fuxk, why do I not give one?
A fuxk, why do I not give one?
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wildernessed viewbagger
Joined: 31 Oct 2004 Posts: 9275 | TRs | Pics Location: Wenatchee |
nice work John, great pics.
Living in the Anthropocene
Living in the Anthropocene
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DIYSteve seeking hygge
Joined: 06 Mar 2007 Posts: 12655 | TRs | Pics Location: here now |
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DIYSteve
seeking hygge
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Fri Aug 08, 2008 4:44 pm
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Nice work and pics, John. I did the W Ridge of Sherpa route c. 10 years ago and really enjoyed it.
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John Morrow Member
Joined: 03 Apr 2007 Posts: 1526 | TRs | Pics Location: Roslyn |
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John Morrow
Member
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Mon Aug 11, 2008 7:58 am
Re: [TR] Aug 5-7, 2008 Sherpa Pk (8605'), Argonaut Pk (8453')
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John Morrow wrote: | I tried to include pictures that give folks a good idea of the routefinding.
I'll give route details later but Sherpa's West Ridge is very straightforward with single rope rappels and good belays at every rap station.
Argonaut would be THE classic long solid class 2/3 scramble if it weren't for the 75 foot crux shallow chimney. It is very easy and safe for a beginning rope-work trip. A single rope is more than long enough for the rap through the chimney on the descent. |
Hi all,
I was going to type out a bunch of route description but it doesn't seem like there's much interest.
See Paul Klenke's description of Sherpa in Summitpost.org for a good one.
Only amendment I might add is that pitch three goes out on a traverse on the NORTH side of the ridge and then climbs to a north side rappell station. This pic:looking back, puckered me a bit on the ascent.
is the variation straight up from the belay after pitch 2 of a low to mid fifth class frictiony crack (well worn lichen) and then over the outside corner to the left to the next crack/inside corner in the photo and up it to the west ridge ridgecrest. I liked leading this variation as it was interesting climbing but not vertical, get gripped out stuff. The standard route on pitch 3 is below and to the left of this. Other than that it is very easy to stay on route with the Summitpost description.
John
“Tell me, what is it you plan to do with your one wild and precious life?”-Mary Oliver
“A nation that continues year after year to spend more money on military defense than on programs of social uplift is approaching spiritual doom.”
― MLK Jr.
“Tell me, what is it you plan to do with your one wild and precious life?”-Mary Oliver
“A nation that continues year after year to spend more money on military defense than on programs of social uplift is approaching spiritual doom.”
― MLK Jr.
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