[Mike Collins]

The closure of the Middle Fork Snoqualmie road at Dingford Creek has made this mountain even more isolated. We chose the Waptus River approach from Salmon La Sac trailhead. The river valley has been sculpted by glaciers and along the 16 mile hike in the striations on exposed rock are still evident. We hiked up to Lake Ivanhoe but it was too buggy to camp there. Immediately upon reaching Dutch Miller Gap off to the right is a climbers path. It points you in the right direction to gain several hundred vertical feet to some secluded tarns where we set up camp. After dinner we gain another couple hundred feet to reach a rocky knoll to plan our ascent route. When looking at the mountain there are two gullies which appear possible. The usual ascent gully is the one on the left. It has a distinctive "Y" appearance. The left arm of the "Y" has a large patch of greenery. The right arm of the "Y" is the way to the top. The initial objective is a notch to the NW of the summit block. The lower sections of the mountain to connect with that notch are peppered with Class 4 sections which have attendant exposure. We passed rappel slings at several locales. Along the way we established cairns to aid us on the downclimb of this complex and confusing southwest face. At the notch Don Beavon and I left our packs and put on our rock shoes for the beginning of the roped portion of the climb. James Hammaker led on the Class 3-4 broken rocks placing a stopper here and a cam there. The handholds which appear solid ain't necessarily so. James forewarned us and tossed several off to the side. Right-left-right-left brought us to the start of the second pitch. There are three pitons overhead at this belay station which appear as if they were hammered in by the original Beckey ascent party. I clipped my personal safety onto a piton I found at shoulder height. Don used a cam at the start of the second pitch to aid the upclimb into a 20 ft crack. Solid toeholds met with firm handholds bringing us into a tight chimney. I mean TIGHT. We were quite glad to have left our packs below or summiting might not have happened. Our stemming was more like a snake slithering up. A stone conveniently jammed in the chimney provided temporary relief from the strain of wriggling up. At the end of the chimney is the belay station for the third pitch. The final pitch is along moderately inclined rock with a large crack on the left. The exposure is forever off to the right. After placing two stoppers and a cam James pulled himself over the chockstone at the end and rested. The route from there is a Class 2 scramble to the top twenty feet up. Six hours after leaving camp we arrived at the summit. Our visit was the first since 8/21/06 when Brian Walker and Tad Summerset made their ascent. We had been in the cold shadow of the mountain but were now enjoying the heat of the sun as well as the warmth that achievement offers. Three 60 meter rope rappels brought us back to the start of the equally challenging descent. The cairns proved invaluable although we wished we had placed more. Somewhere along the way on the lower section we got off our ascent route. We found some slings around a cedar and used the rope as a hand-line for one particularly dangerous section. Don arrived at camp before James and I did. He had enough time to take a refreshing swim but was surprised when he saw bear tracks in the mud on the island he stood on. We broke camp and hiked the seven miles down to the Waptus River. That meant the next day's hike out would be much less exertional. I have been ticking off the Homecourt Peaks and this was 98/100 completed by me. Chimney Rock and Middle Index are the last two needed. I have the good fortune to have climbing friends who climb better than I. My thanks to Don and James for their help it getting to the top of Bears Breast.

[Type E]

Mike, Another solid outing! 98 of 100 is quite impressive. Good luck with the final two. How many back court peaks do you have left? E

[Mike Collins]

A lot of Back Court peaks. Something like 40 left. I nibble on that list.

[Tom_Sjolseth]

That sounds like a fun trip. Maybe I'll actually go after one of these court lists one of these days. How many of them have trees on the summit? I'm game for Middle Index at any time. We should link up on that.

[jhamaker]

The rappels were 15 to 20M in lenth on a 60M rope. All cairns removed. Do the same w/ any you place. Thanks to John Morrow, Ranger, who cleared the logs off the trail a few wks ago. P.S. Mike et al - My moonlight hike got me from Waptus Lk got me all the way up to a meadow below Deep Lk. Next morning I took a short cut - oops - by rounding Deep Lk on the left (W) then strait up to Peggy's Pond on the scree. Next time I'll bring a more current and comprehensive map! I still met up w/ my other party just after 9a.m. and we got up Cathedral Rk.

[Schmidt Alti-Dude]

Sweet right up. I've stared at that mountain many times wondering if I'll ever be on top. I need to hit the climbing gym more.

[Sabahsboy]

Wow! Anyone have time or will to shoot photos? We all would love to see the route and the conditons plus the incredible splendor of that rough hewn mount of shear slabs. Great trail (climb)report if once can call it that. Descriptions of geology add a great deal to the report as did the lake swim and fresh bear prints. A little, extra excitement at no extra cost!

[puzzlr]

I've wondered many times how hard that peak is. I think I'll try to talk my climbing buddies into going this way next year -- as long as someone else is willing to lead!

[Randy]

Good work Mike. Did anyone take any pictures?

[Tom_Sjolseth]

Where are the photos, Mike!

[Mike Collins]

puzzlr...The scariest part of the climb is the unprotectable Class 4 climbing on the lower slopes. If someone is going to get into trouble it will probably be down there. Don Beavon took pictures which I will share once he sends them to me.

[Justus S.]

Mike, glad you were able to make it up and tick that one off. It sure looked nice, but not easy, from our trip to Daniel.

Bears Breast from Daniel