Forum Index > Trip Reports > Ice Lks, Spider Gap, Cloudy Pass, Image Lk, Stehekin 9/24-29
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cweston
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Joined: 24 Jul 2008
Posts: 310 | TRs | Pics
Location: Manhattan, KS (There's no place like home.)
cweston
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PostTue Sep 30, 2008 10:27 pm 
Long title, long trip report... Day 1: Wed., Sept. 24 4.5 miles, 1,700 ft. gained MLHSN picked me up at the Wenatchee airport without a hitch and we got to the trailhead at about 4:30 in the afternoon. (Thanks for the ride!) It was cloudy but not raining, although it had rained some on the drive. The 3.5 miles to Leroy Creek (minimal elevation gain) only took about an hour, with a bit of drizzle off and on. The Leroy Creek Trail was a different story--brutally steep! But Leroy Creek Falls was spectacular, and there were some great views through the clouds, up and down Phelps Creek and (way) up to Seven Fingered Jack and Maude. (Mt. Maude is tomorrow's destination.) It took a little over an hour to climb the first mile to the Leroy Creek Crossing, where I made camp in the rain at 6:45, at about 5,320 feet. (I was hesitant to continue to the basin, not wanting to hike such steep terrain by headlamp in the rain. "Make conservative decisions" was the very last thing my wife told me on the phone on the way to the trailhead, after all.)
Phelps Creek trailhead
Phelps Creek trailhead
Looking south from trailhead
Looking south from trailhead
Hitting the trail
Hitting the trail
Leroy Falls
Leroy Falls
Looking up Leroy Creek
Looking up Leroy Creek
7FJ tries to poke through the clouds
7FJ tries to poke through the clouds
Night 1 camp
Night 1 camp
I cooked corn and potato chowder by headlamp and hit the tent--wet, but undaunted. Day 2: Thur, Sept. 25 est. 7.5 miles (mostly off-trail); 3,000 ft. gained; 2,200 ft. lost It rained off and on (mostly on) all night, and is still raining at 7:00 am. I slept fairly warm--I'm guessing the low was around 40. I'm biding my time in the tent: I will abort the trip to Ice Lakes and Mt Maude if it rains all day, but the forecast says it might taper off later this morning. The rain stopped around 9:00, so I quickly broke camp and hiked the steep mile up to Leroy Creek Basin in about 45 minutes, where I was greeted by a group of does. At about 10:45, I took off for Ice Lakes. By now, it was drizzling off and on. It is about 3 miles and 2,000 ft (there is boot trail some of the way) to the saddle on the Entiat crest which leads to Upper Ice Lake. I didn't have much trouble route-finding on the way: the traverse through Leroy Basin beneath the cliffs of Mt. Maude alternates wooded sections and scree/rocklide traverses, on very steep terrain. There is pretty good trail in the wooded sections, but you have to watch very closely for a few cairns in the rocky areas. There was fresh snow on the peaks of the Entiat crest above.
Mt. Maude in clouds
Mt. Maude in clouds
Leroy Creek Basin
Leroy Creek Basin
Deer in Leroy Creek Basin
Deer in Leroy Creek Basin
Maude trying to be seen
Maude trying to be seen
Seven Fingered Jack trying to be seen
Seven Fingered Jack trying to be seen
Fresh snow on the Entiat Crest
Fresh snow on the Entiat Crest
I reached the infamous gully (the pictures don't do it justice: it is a deep gash in the mountainside) and didn't have too much trouble crossing it, although it is formidable.
The gully
The gully
Looking down the gully
Looking down the gully
It was now lightly snowing, as I completed the rest of the climb to the saddle between the Leroy and Chipmunk Creek drainages. I ate lunch at about 12:45, in increasing snow, at this beautiful spot with its yellow pumice soil and some Larch trees just starting to turn gold. (In a week or two, they'll be spectacular.) Elevation 6,820.
Maude from saddle
Maude from saddle
Looking back at Leroy Creek basin
Looking back at Leroy Creek basin
Looking down to Chipmunk Creek
Looking down to Chipmunk Creek
After lunch, I headed off to the Entiat crest at 7,800. There is a beautiful boot path through the pumice slopes--as good as any official trail. But the pumice soil is especially slippery when wet, and it was now snowing harder and harder. This last drag is steep: gaining 1,000 ft in not much more than 1/2 a mile. I reached the crest, the gateway to Ice Lakes, the place above any other place in the Cascades that I've so wanted to visit for so long, in a full-on blizzard. I couldn't even see the lakes, and the snow was starting to accumulate. I was especially worried about getting through the gully on the way back, since I figured it was raining down there. If that loose dirt were any wetter, it would really be treacherous. So, within a 1/2 mile of Upper Ice Lake, I made another one of those conservative (but painful) decisions, and turned around. I will get to Ice Lakes another time. This turned out to be a good decision. For one thing, it took me longer to get back to camp then it did to get here, even though it's mostly downhill. I had routefinding problems 3 times. (In my hurry to beat the weather, I had committed the classic blunder of not turning around often enough to see what the route would look like on the way back.) The first two problems were between the Chipmunk Creek saddle and the gully: both times I ended up below the correct route and had to climb on very steep and rough terrain to regain it. Then, the gully: I tried to cross in the same place I had on the way, but the dirt was much wetter and looser and I had some trouble. About halfway down (it is maybe 25 feet deep), my feet slipped out from under me, and I slid the rest of the way, tearing my pants, my knee, and abrading my hands in several places. It was also very difficult climbing out. Now I was home free, if bloody. Well, sort-of: Having lost the route below twice already, I had clearly learned my lesson, because now I lost it above between the gully and the main basin (where my camp was). The terrain was steep and wooded and slippery when wet, so this slowed me down considerably. I finally got back to camp a little before 4:00. It rained on and off the rest of the day. I did some first aid and got into the driest clothes I had, then I collected water from a branch of Leroy Creek a few steps outside my tent and fixed 3-bean chili for dinner. It was excellent (but it gave me heartburn--or maybe that was the gully exacting it's revenge). I hit the tent with my trip log and a book around 6:00. Even though the weather was bad, I still got some beautiful views of the Entiat crest poking through the clouds. This is truly a spectacular and rugged area. Today was my most extreme travel of the trip, and hopefully my most extreme weather as well, if the forecast holds.
I wish all cairns were this visible
I wish all cairns were this visible
Night 2 camp (center of the picture)
Night 2 camp (center of the picture)
About 7:00 pm, I got up to get a Zantac down from the bear bag, and it was clearer than it had been all day: a good sign. Just as I settled into the tent, what sounded like a huge rockfall came crashing down from Seven Fingered Jack above me. (Scary!) Day 3: Friday, Sept. 26 11.5 miles; 3,300 ft. gained; 3,800 ft. lost I got up to pee at about 3:15, and was greeted with a good news/bad news situation. The good news was that spectacular star display meaning the sky is clear. The bad news was that it was no more than 20 degrees and nothing I had was really very dry yet. Brrr. I got up about 6:30, finding everything that was wet last night (that would be everything) frozen this morning. The temp had climbed all the way up to 24. I hit the trail around 8:00.
First light, fresh snow
First light, fresh snow
First light, fresh snow 2
First light, fresh snow 2
Frozen Backpack
Frozen Backpack
Ice on Leroy Creek
Ice on Leroy Creek
The moon is just about right over the place I stood in a blizzard on the Entiat crest the day before.
The moon is just about right over the place I stood in a blizzard on the Entiat crest the day before.
Light coming through 7FJ
Light coming through 7FJ
Looking up to 7FJ and Maude
Looking up to 7FJ and Maude
The Leroy Creek trail is steep enough that it's almost as slow going down it as up it, especially when it's wet. I reached the Phelps Creek trail and hit it hard the couple miles through unremarkable forest to Spider Meadow, which is just a gorgeous place. I had the first installment of lunch at the Phelps Creek crossing, at the far end of Spider Meadow, where I was able to sit on something dry (a rock), which was something of a novelty. Then the real climbing begins: up a mile to Larch Knob (what a beautiful place!) and course 2 of lunch.
Pano of Spider Meadow
Pano of Spider Meadow
Red Mt. over Spider Meadow
Red Mt. over Spider Meadow
Maude poking through
Maude poking through
Looking down to Spider Meadow
Looking down to Spider Meadow
Fresh snow on Entiat crest
Fresh snow on Entiat crest
Larch Knob
Larch Knob
Then on to Spider "Glacier." The snow was fairly hard (there hasn't been much sun lately). I did it with just boots and trekking poles, but anyone going up there yet this year might want to consider instep crampons or crampons.
Up Spider Glacier
Up Spider Glacier
Looking up to Spider Gap
Looking up to Spider Gap
Broken section
Broken section
almost gone
almost gone
Red Mt.
Red Mt.
Looking back from Spider Gap
Looking back from Spider Gap
(L to R) Sitting Bull, Dome, Agnes(?)
(L to R) Sitting Bull, Dome, Agnes(?)
Down to Upper Lyman Lakes
Down to Upper Lyman Lakes
Snout
Snout
Snout and Upper-Upper Lyman Lake
Snout and Upper-Upper Lyman Lake
Toward Cloudy Pass
Toward Cloudy Pass
The snowfields on the Lyman side were also fairly hard (and steep)--it was slow going down. The third installment of lunch was above the snout of the Lyman Glacier at about 3:00. I had a little trouble finding the route down toward Lyman Lakes: the area below the glacier is just a rocky wasteland. Once the trail is found, it is absolutely gorgeous parkland from here to Lower Lyman Lake and Railroad Creek, where I made camp a little after 5:00 in a fairly unappealing woods camp.
Chiwawa and Lyman Glacier
Chiwawa and Lyman Glacier
Cloudy Peak
Cloudy Peak
Spider Gap in far left of picture
Spider Gap in far left of picture
Lyman Glacier
Lyman Glacier
Mt. Bonanza 3
Mt. Bonanza 3
Lower Lyman Lake
Lower Lyman Lake
Night 3 camp
Night 3 camp
I have never seen as much spectacular scenery in one day as I did today--simply amazing. I briefly pondered continuing on with extra water to a possibly dry camp below Cloudy Pass, but I was pretty tired and wanted to dry my gear in the last bits of sun. (It turns out there is what looks like all-year water at the camps just below Cloudy Pass.) Day 4: Saturday, Sept. 27 8 miles; 3,300 ft. gained; 2,800 ft. lost It was cloudier and not so cold last night. I slept alright, although there was a lot of animal activity near me all night: mostly deer and small animals, I think. I thought there were supposed to be bear cables at this camp (there weren't), but I got a pretty good bear bag hung, and banged a pot during the night a couple times when it sounded like something larger was around. I hit the trail a little after 8 and was at Cloudy Pass about 9. It was still pretty overcast. I packed my fanny pack and headed up good boot-built trail toward Cloudy Peak. I got to about the 7,500 ft. level and decided that was enough--every route I could calculate up the last 400 ft to the summit looked fairly exposed, it was cold, and the clouds were being stubborn anyway. I hung around a while in a little grotto in the talus, had a chat with a pika, and took some pictures. (I never got a picture of the pika, because he never stood still long enough.)
Cloudy Peak
Cloudy Peak
Down to Lyman Lakes
Down to Lyman Lakes
Boot path on Cloudy Peak
Boot path on Cloudy Peak
Looking North to a sea of peaks
Looking North to a sea of peaks
Summit of Cloudy
Summit of Cloudy
Spider Gap and Lyman Lakes
Spider Gap and Lyman Lakes
Looking down Agnes Creek
Looking down Agnes Creek
Lyman Lake from Cloudy Pk
Lyman Lake from Cloudy Pk
Self portrait near summit of Cloudy Pk
Self portrait near summit of Cloudy Pk
Entiat Crest
Entiat Crest
Spider Gap is at the far left of this picture.
Spider Gap is at the far left of this picture.
Meadows, trees, lakes, mountains, ice
Meadows, trees, lakes, mountains, ice
Plummer and Sitting Bull
Plummer and Sitting Bull
I headed back down to my pack at the pass and started the steep trail (down and up) to Suiattle Pass. Then I had the somewhat tedious traverse toward Miners Ridge. The forest is very dense and brushy here on the west side of the Cascade Crest--you can tell that it rains more here than where I've been so far. The clouds were gradually disappearing, and more and more views opened up as I traversed miners ridge: Glacier Peak, Fortress, Chiwawa, The Dakobed Range (Mt. Clark), Tenpeak, etc. The last couple miles of miners ridge are beautiful grassy slopes. I had a chat with a marmot here (marmots might rival pikas in cuteness, and I did get a picture this time). I arrived at Image Lake about 3:00, getting the pick of the designated campsites at 6,200 ft., about 1/4 mile below the lake. The view of Glacier Peak was spectacular.
Clouds are lifting!
Clouds are lifting!
Trail on Miners Ridge
Trail on Miners Ridge
Marmot on Miners Ridge
Marmot on Miners Ridge
Night 4 Camp (not bad)
Night 4 Camp (not bad)
Image Lake
Image Lake
Glacier Pk over Image Lake 2
Glacier Pk over Image Lake 2
Glacier Pk over Image Lake 4
Glacier Pk over Image Lake 4
Glacier Pk over Image Lake 5
Glacier Pk over Image Lake 5
I walked up to the lake to fetch water from the little trickle of an inlet stream, and since swimming is allowed until the inlet dries up, I went for it. Yes, it was very cold. But it was sunny, and warmer than it'd been the whole trip (maybe 55?), so it was tolerable, and it sure felt good to be a little cleaner. I had ramen noodles and dehydrated blueberry cheesecake for dinner, cleaned up, and did a little maintenance work on my feet. Then I walked back to the lake to get some of those classic photos of Glacier Peak over Image Lake in the day's last light, which meant hiking back to camp by headlamp. Day 5: Sunday, Sept. 28 11.5 miles; 1,700 ft. gained; 4,100 ft. lost It was clear and very cold again last night: I think the low was around 25. I opened the tent to the spectacular sight of Glacier Peak in first light--what a way to start a Sunday in the presence of God's awesome work in nature.
From the tent door!
From the tent door!
I cooked breakfast for the first time this trip--it was tasty and warmed me up inside. I hit the trail about 8:30. I took a little side trip up the steep, grassy slope to the crest of Miners Ridge, where I found great views that were definitely worth the effort, including a view down to Image Lake.
Suiattle River in sunlight
Suiattle River in sunlight
Glacier Peak from Miners Ridge
Glacier Peak from Miners Ridge
Image Lake from Miners Ridge
Image Lake from Miners Ridge
Dome Peak from Miners Ridge
Dome Peak from Miners Ridge
Plummer
Plummer
Fortress
Fortress
I hit Suiattle pass mid-morning and started the long (20 miles) descent down Agnes Creek. The parkland below Suiattle pass was especially beautiful.
Cloudy Pk from below Suiattle Pass
Cloudy Pk from below Suiattle Pass
Looking down Agnes Creek
Looking down Agnes Creek
Sitting Bull
Sitting Bull
Parkland in Agnes headwaters
Parkland in Agnes headwaters
That's where I'm going!
That's where I'm going!
I was starting to drag a little, looking for a good lunch spot for what seemed like forever. The forest here is very wet, and you can go a long time without a decent place to sit down. Finally, I hit the crossing of Agnes Creek, a bit below some falls. I had a nice liesurely lunch here, knowing it was only about 4 more miles down to Hemlock Camp. I'm glad I'm going down Agnes Creek: I can see where 20 miles uphill in mostly dark forest could get a little tedious.
Boot shot
Boot shot
Self portrait at Agnes Crossing
Self portrait at Agnes Crossing
The first couple miles after lunch were brushy, wet, and muddy--this was a little demoralizing. But the trail got better, and about 3:00 I arrived at Hemlock Camp, which features (duh) giant hemlock trees somehow surviving in an area of flood devastation from some flood long ago. I had direct sun until about 4:15, giving me a chance to set some creek water in the sun to bathe with and soak my feet in the warm sun and very cold creek. Some hikers passed through: they were hiking the Pacific Crest Trail (which I was now on) from Mexico to Canada--they only have about 5 days to go. Dinner was most excellent Enertia Mac Patch Mac & Cheese and a dark chocolate bar with blueberries. But the evening did end with two somewhat disconcerting events: 1. A solo through-hiker arrived well after dark, just as I was enjoying the last bit of my fire and reading by headlamp. He kindof startled me. He was a little strange and socially awkward. As I lay in my tent later, I remembered the rumors about a rapist hiding out on the PCT heading north. This made for a less than relaxing night. (He was gone without incident when I got up at 6:15, before dawn. So, whoever you were, sorry for thinking you might be a psycho.) 2. Hemlock Camp has mice. They got into some of my food when I was not looking, and even chewed through my bear bag during the night--right through the odor-proof plastic sack inside. They have good taste, at least: they chewed the Larribars (which are my favorite) and left the Cliff Bars (which I have found I can barely choke down. It's like eating the Sahara Desert). Good thing it was the last day and I had packed plenty of extra food.
Cliffs of Cloudy Peak
Cliffs of Cloudy Peak
Hemlock Camp
Hemlock Camp
Night 5 camp
Night 5 camp
Agnes Peak
Agnes Peak
Day 6: Monday, Sept. 29 13 miles; 1,000 ft. gained; 3,900 ft. lost I got up about 6:15 and broke camp by headlamp. Damn mice! I hit it pretty hard today, hoping to catch the 3:00 bus from High Bridge down to Stehekin, rather than have to wait for the 6:00 bus. I had a nice rest at Swamp Creek, and another little one by the spectacular falls just above where the West Fork of Agnes Creek meets the main creek. (It's a little strange to call Agnes Creek a "creek" now--it is a mighty river at this point.) I had to inch out onto a scary little balcony to get the photos of the falls. The forest is now becoming drier--smaller trees, and it is getting warmer.
Trail disappears in brush
Trail disappears in brush
I love this picture!
I love this picture!
Deep pool at Swamp Creek crossing
Deep pool at Swamp Creek crossing
Bonanza (I think)
Bonanza (I think)
Agnes Creek falls
Agnes Creek falls
Agnes Creek Falls 2
Agnes Creek Falls 2
Agnes Mt above lower elevation forest
Agnes Mt above lower elevation forest
I stopped for lunch just short of the Glacier Peak Wilderness boundary (I've been in the GP Wilderness this whole time), and peeled off layers, making it all the way down to just shorts and a Capilene 1 top, for the first time. As I traversed the last miles high above Agnes Gorge, I could recall why Stehekin is such a spectacular place--it was warm, and the forest was sunny and pleasant and didn't smell like decaying plant matter. I got my first views across the Stehekin Valley to McGregor Mt., and upvalley to Goode. There is smoke in the air, which I later learned is from a controlled burn at Weaver Point.
McGregor Mt
McGregor Mt
Goode in smoke
Goode in smoke
I crossed Agnes Creek as it exited the gorge on a beautiful new bridge, crossed into North Cascades National Park, and was at High Bridge in a few minutes, right at 2:00. There I found a pleasant sunny balcony over the Stehekin River and finished this log while I waited for the bus. It was in the 80s. Stehekin is a fantastic place. And I get to be here for the next 4 weeks.
New Agnes Creek bridge
New Agnes Creek bridge
Agnes as it exits the gorge
Agnes as it exits the gorge
Yes!
Yes!
Stehekin River from High Bridge
Stehekin River from High Bridge
The grand totals: 56 miles; 14,000 ft. gained; 16,800 ft. lost; one amazing adventure never to be forgotten. You can view more photos from my blog here.

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Magellan
Brutally Handsome



Joined: 26 Jul 2006
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Magellan
Brutally Handsome
PostTue Sep 30, 2008 11:22 pm 
A truly hardy effort. up.gif I hope the artist program goes well.

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Quark
Niece of Alvy Moore



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Quark
Niece of Alvy Moore
PostWed Oct 01, 2008 6:23 am 
Damn. Nice trip! Looks like you experienced the best of what's out there! Creeks like Agnes are often more like rivers. I like the frozen backpack. embarassedlaugh.gif Re: the socially awkward thru-hiker. By the time they get to Washington, most of 'em are. Some start out that way, though, and get worse, or better, depending on how you look at it.

"...Other than that, the post was more or less accurate." Bernardo, NW Hikers' Bureau Chief of Reporting
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mntsun
Wunderer



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mntsun
Wunderer
PostWed Oct 01, 2008 7:37 am 
Great solo trip and great pictures. That gully is more annoying than it ought be.

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cweston
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Location: Manhattan, KS (There's no place like home.)
cweston
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PostWed Oct 01, 2008 7:45 am 
mntsun wrote:
Great solo trip and great pictures. That gully is more annoying than it ought be.
I think the conditions are really key--there was a really big difference in how loose the dirt was on my way back. After several precip-free days, I bet it's not that bad. Some other gully-related info... 1. I crossed about 100 feet above the cairns, which looked like the best spot. 2. If I had to do it again, I'd consider going all the way to the top of the gully (1/4 mile (?) on steep scree). It looked like it might be possible to scramble across the solid rock above the gully as an alternative. Anyone explored this?

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wamtngal
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wamtngal
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PostWed Oct 01, 2008 8:19 am 
Great trip in a beautiful area! up.gif Re: the gully...I was there at the beginning of September and we actually crossed the gully a little ways down from the first set of cairns (there's a second set to show you the second crossing as well - you can see them from the first, higher set of cairns). This was a much better option then the first, higher set of cairns.

Opinions expressed here are my own.
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BulgarianInWA
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BulgarianInWA
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PostWed Oct 01, 2008 8:55 am 
cweston wrote:
2. If I had to do it again, I'd consider going all the way to the top of the gully (1/4 mile (?) on steep scree). It looked like it might be possible to scramble across the solid rock above the gully as an alternative. Anyone explored this?
Two years ago I tried going up the gully in search of a better place to cross... and ended up climbing Maude via the West face smile.gif It was just getting scarier to cross higher up. On the way back I didn't have trouble crossing it at the cairns. Dropping into the gully from the Leroy basin side appeared harder than getting out of it.

Балканът пее хайдушка песен
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Matt
Tea, Earl Grey, Hot



Joined: 30 Jan 2007
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Matt
Tea, Earl Grey, Hot
PostWed Oct 01, 2008 9:55 am 
Nice traverse across the crest. I like the cairn of black and white rocks.

“As beacons mountains burned at evening.” J.R.R. Tolkien
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GaliWalker
Have camera will use



Joined: 10 Dec 2007
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GaliWalker
Have camera will use
PostWed Oct 01, 2008 10:07 am 
Enjoyable trip report...good read!
cweston wrote:
Plummer
Plummer
slobber.gif

'Gali'Walker => 'Mountain-pass' walker bobbi: "...don't you ever forget your camera!" Photography: flickr.com/photos/shahiddurrani
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Slide Alder Slayer
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Slide Alder Slayer
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PostWed Oct 01, 2008 10:23 am 
Excellent Trip Report! Sierra Designs makes a great solo tent and Enertia Trail Foods makes tasty Mac & Cheese. I really enjoyed your writing and pictures.

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gone
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gone
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PostWed Oct 01, 2008 10:36 am 
Great effort, wonderful report, love the details and trail pics - thanks for sharing this! up.gif

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Popcorn
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Popcorn
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PostWed Oct 01, 2008 2:08 pm 
What a terrific trip report, and great photos. A wonderful reminder of how beautiful this part of the world is!

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MLHSN
What goes here?????



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MLHSN
What goes here?????
PostWed Oct 01, 2008 8:46 pm 
Hey! Glad you got to Stehekin safe and had some fun along the way. It started raining the second I drove away from the trailhead so I was wondering how you did.

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