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b00
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PostSun Sep 28, 2008 9:44 pm 
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chair peak - south shoulder route - 9-27-08
fun, complex, interesting, challenging routefinding, not too physically challenging, fascinating route, solid rock where needed but a lot of loose stuff to walk on.
class 3 max, mostly class 2.
i hope i don't miss too many details.  i am trying to write this up quick(so i don't forget), as i leave for a big trip in the morning.
we walked the snow lake trail from alpental to its signed junction with the old trail/source lake and instead of turning right with the snow lake trail, we continued straight as if heading to the tooth and the source lake overlook.  in a few feet we crossed a major stream(filled 2 liters of water as this was probably the last water on the route) and then headed up the stream bed climber's left of the stream.  at cliffs we found a faint trail leading to a ramp(obscured by small trees) climber's right.  this ramp leads to the lower basin below chair peak. we headed up to the upper basin(the basin that thumbtack rock resides in)

sunning in front of thumbtack rock
sunning in front of thumbtack rock

and exited the basin on its far left hand side going up a leftward rising ramp.
ramp out of thumbtack rock basin
ramp out of thumbtack rock basin

we then turned the corner staying below the cliffs in easy terrain
until we could cross over to the west side of the south shoulder's ridge.  the saddle we reached i believe is just north of "not bryant."
not bryant or not?
not bryant or not?

we then did a descending northward traverse on the west side of the ridge.

looking at the traverse to the gullies and summit
looking at the traverse to the gullies and summit

we placed three or four cairns along the route.
traversing the west side of the ridge
traversing the west side of the ridge

we dropped maybe 50' to 100' and traversed a ramp

traversing the "ramp" w-kaleetan in the background
traversing the "ramp" w-kaleetan in the background

that led us past an isolated tree we squeezed through and soon gained access to an easy gully heading up.

easy gully
easy gully
easy gully
easy gully

in a not very obvious spot about halfway up the gully, we ramped climber's left, turned the corner and gained another slight ramp that descended about 10' while traversing north and then the ramp ascended and turned the corner.  after ascending the route seems to dead-end. it looks like you cannot traverse northward anymore as it appears to be a slight cliff.  but, there is some really good class three rock(with class 5 exposure) to do a descending traverse over to a saddle near what looks like the summit gully(it is not the summit gully, but it is close).
it is not the summit gully, but it is close
it is not the summit gully, but it is close

even after watching me downclimb this, my friends wanted a belay. so i set up a belay and belayed them and then downclimbed it again.  the next gully was class three and a little wet.  we scrambled it to very near its top(on descent we rapped from the tree near the exit - you can see the existing slings and rap rings)

almost to rap station which the first tree to the right
almost to rap station which the first tree to the right

and exited on the left and then traversed over to the short final summit gully (class 2).
summit gully
summit gully

we looked for, but did not find a register.

beware of this notorious gang and their gang signs!
beware of this notorious gang and their gang signs!

we descended the route
looking back(south) at the traverse x marks the crossover spot by not bryant?
looking back(south) at the traverse x marks the crossover spot by not bryant?

and scrambled up the point that appeared to be "not bryant."  another point on its ridge looked similar height so we attempted to find an easy route up it.  after chewing up time probing and not finding an easy way, we decided to just head back to the barn.  although a convoluted route, we were easily able to retrace our steps.  descending the stream bed(wet in places) just above source lake near the trail, was the most difficulty we encountered on the trip - slimy class 3 in spots.  we stopped at the stream above source lake and refilled water and walked back to the car very happy.  this was the last peak in the area i had not been up :>)
hey, i know this reports sounds confusing, because it is.  this is a great route with not much technical difficulties. but requires a lot of routefinding. i only hope the cairns we placed and the small amount of useful info contained here, will be just enough for others to have as much fun on this route as we had.

equipment: one 30m 7mm rope, one 25m 9mm rope(a second 30m would have worked better, rather than the 25m), harnesses, helmets, 2 double runners, no ice axe
avalanche pk aka rock/thunder
avalanche pk aka rock/thunder

11.5 hours car to car at a moderate pace with plenty of breaks and a long summit rest.

IMG_5157_-adj+stuart.jpg
IMG_5157_-adj+stuart.jpg
IMG_5162-adj.jpg
IMG_5162-adj.jpg
IMG_5190-adj.jpg
IMG_5190-adj.jpg
IMG_5191_adj.jpg
IMG_5191_adj.jpg
pano_traversing.jpg
pano_traversing.jpg
pano_snow_lake.jpg
pano_snow_lake.jpg
pano_from_summit_of_chair.jpg
pano_from_summit_of_chair.jpg
pano_chikamin+lemah.jpg
pano_chikamin+lemah.jpg
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Dayhike Mike
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Joined: 02 Mar 2003
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PostSun Sep 28, 2008 10:05 pm 
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Nice work, b00!  up.gif

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"There is only one basic human right, the right to do as you damn well please. And with it comes the only basic human duty, the duty to take the consequences." -P.J. O'Rourke
"Ignorance is natural. Stupidity takes commitment." -Solomon Short
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iron
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getting old
PostSun Sep 28, 2008 10:28 pm 
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looks like a good trip hw. sorry i missed it. hopefully next week...
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polarbear
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PostSun Sep 28, 2008 10:43 pm 
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Nice pictures! up.gif  up.gif  up.gif   Good to see the gang wan't carrying black sharpies.   Snow Lake appears to have a small lagoon that bears further exploration.

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...and a window that looks out on Corcovado...  Corcovado Hill
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Slide Alder Slayer
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PostMon Sep 29, 2008 8:31 am 
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Way to go b00 & company!
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DIYSteve
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PostMon Sep 29, 2008 8:34 am 
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Good work!  We saw you from Kaleetan.  Another group (of 2?) had also summited that day, likely via the NE Buttress or S route.
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Layback
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PostMon Sep 29, 2008 7:49 pm 
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Nice work b00.  I like the big "M".   up.gif
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Forum Index > Trip Reports > chair peak - south shoulder route - 9-27-08
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