Forum Index > Trip Reports > Mt. Stuart via Cascadian Couloir 9/27 -28
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iHeartTheChallenge
Marnie and Justin



Joined: 23 May 2008
Posts: 56 | TRs
Location: Redmond, WA
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Marnie and Justin
PostTue Sep 30, 2008 2:42 pm 
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wildernessed wrote:
Hey Man Nice Shot !


Ok, so first off, this is an amazing photo! smile.gif Second, great job on the TR and the climb, guys! Third, I've been trying to get some perspective for the size of the summit block and the type of scrambling required to top out via the CC route for some time now, as it's a climb that's on my wife's and my list. I took a few photos from your TR, namely this one and the one of the main summit from the false summit. Using some scaling techniques, I came up with this (forgive my nerdiness  embarassedlaugh.gif ):


Kyle is circled in red with a red line scaled to approximately 5.5' in length to indicate his standing, but slightly head-down position. The larger red line is the measurement from Kyle's location to the summit using the 5.5' (1" = 55') as the basis. If this is correct (it's at least rough order-of-magnitude), then Kyle is approximately 110 feet below the summit at this point. This tells me a few things:

a) The summit block is a whole hell of a lot larger than I thought, having seen previous photos from other TR's and guidebooks.

b) That's a fairly vertical scramble up to the top from the base of the saddle between main and false summits. Can you really make it up there with only class 2 and a few class 3 spots?

Maybe I still don't have a good perspective here, but if this is a true-to-life snapshot of Stuart's summit scramble, I'm not sure my wife and I are ready for that! It certainly seems more hardcore and scary than I had previously envisioned.  eek.gif  eek.gif  eek.gif

Cheers,
-->Justin
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Schmidt Alti-Dude
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Joined: 06 Jul 2007
Posts: 1362 | TRs
Location: Looking for Adventure 201!
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PostTue Sep 30, 2008 3:25 pm 
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IHeart:  See the orangeish area just to the left of your red line.  That is the scramble route.  It was not bad at all. (of course, I took the ridgeline route that did have one class 4 move)

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Anything stated by me in no way reflects the attitudes or opinions of my wife
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iHeartTheChallenge
Marnie and Justin



Joined: 23 May 2008
Posts: 56 | TRs
Location: Redmond, WA
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Marnie and Justin
PostTue Sep 30, 2008 3:46 pm 
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Schmidt Alti-Dude wrote:
IHeart: See the orangeish area just to the left of your red line. That is the scramble route. It was not bad at all. (of course, I took the ridgeline route that did have one class 4 move)

Dude,
Thanks for the clarification...the orange area still appears to climb straight up to the summit point, but there seems to be a plateau of sorts (around where the words "~110'" are in my picture). Is that the line taken on the scramble? It looks like you can cut to the right and follow the ridge back left towards the summit from that plateau. Thanks again for the help!

Sorry if I'm hijacking the thread  frown.gif, but you guys provide so much useful information through TR's on this site, it's incredible! You should get together and start writing your own guidebooks!  smile.gif
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Schmidt Alti-Dude
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PostTue Sep 30, 2008 4:54 pm 
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Yep, we crossed to the orange area on the broken slabs across from the label ~110' on your original picture.  There is a cairn route from the false summit to/from there.

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wildernessed
viewbagger



Joined: 31 Oct 2004
Posts: 9238 | TRs
Location: Wenatchee
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viewbagger
PostTue Sep 30, 2008 5:18 pm 
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The information on this site is far more comprehensive than all of the guidebooks put together. The spectrum of hiking, backpacking, and scrambling covered is incredible, the climbing TR's are just an extension of the others in the pursuit to get to the top, and we could use some more climbing related TR's IMO. More knowledge and techniques are always a good thing. As far as your question, we came in via the high route over the top of the false summit, the area leading up to, around, and in the initial gulley to the false summit via that route is the crux of the trip due to the loose dirt, scree, and rock, in the lower - mid gulley. I would say once in the upper gulley your in class 3 slabby rock, but the rock is good, with plenty of hand and footholds and as you crest the summit ridge it is large irregular, solid blocky rock, giving you your first views of the ridge and the summit. You have the option of descending slightly below the ridge and crossing keeping high then going back up just before where the ridge transitions into the summit area, there again you have large irregular blocky rock with plenty of hand and footholds. I went along the North side of the ridge (some exposure at that point, a couple class 4 sections, but you have the option of going another way) after which you follow the top of the ridge to the much talked about slab to the summit, the slab, isn't high angle, and has large cracks in multiple places for hand and foot placement, it's a short section and your on the summit area, you could have dropped down farther back to the low route, but then you have to climb back up, but the route is straightforward (class 2 mainly, with some class 3). We came back the lower route which was easier to follow because you can see it line of sight back towards the South ridge of the false summit, it's still class 3 over the ridge and to the other side and down along the right (S side of the gulley). I found that the high route was quicker overall, but the horizontal scrambling was quite a relief compared to the lung busting job of the vertical oriented hike of getting there. At least there is a topographic map now of the CC route, we added to the betabase, I looked at quite a few varying reports, and found no correct topographic map of the route. How you feel about the scramble is going to depend upon your personal comfort level, and scrambling background. I know this, we were surprised at the good rock, plentiful holds, and speed at which we made it across the ridge. You are predominantly walking across the ridge, negotiating  through the rocks ( we were elated at being up there, and I didn't really notice the exposure that much). Having said all that, there are sections where I wouldn't want to fall. hockeygrin.gif

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iHeartTheChallenge
Marnie and Justin



Joined: 23 May 2008
Posts: 56 | TRs
Location: Redmond, WA
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Marnie and Justin
PostTue Sep 30, 2008 7:10 pm 
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wildernessed wrote:
The information on this site is far more comprehensive than all of the guidebooks put together. The spectrum of hiking, backpacking, and scrambling covered is incredible, the climbing TR's are just an extension of the others in the pursuit to get to the top, and we could use some more climbing related TR's IMO. More knowledge and techniques is always a good thing.

I agree with you completely. I've always tried to take photos of all of our climbs so that I can piece together a "story," if only for ourselves...but I find that not many people spend time trying to put that same story together. These TRs are just amazing though! Good photos, good beta, good tips. Keep up the great work! smile.gif Can you post the link to the topo for the CC route? I'm not familiar with the "betabase."

So, it sounds like there are a number of options once you get to the false summit. A boulderwalk over the saddle and mostly class 2/3 just below the summit block, but there are places where you can get yourself into class 4 if that's what you're looking for. Fall consequences are high, but probability of a fall under normal conditions is low, given the quality of hand/footholds and the appropriate experience level?

Thanks again for all your help!

Cheers,
-->Justin
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GeoTom
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Joined: 19 May 2005
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PostWed Oct 01, 2008 7:55 am 
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Enjoy some mediocre video work.  rolleyes.gif

I need to do something about the sound of the wind. Or not go on windy days.

In the Cascadian Couloir:


At the false summit:


At the summit (a bit windy):


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silence
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PostWed Oct 01, 2008 9:27 am 
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wildernessed wrote:
I have always admired this mountain from trails, ridges, and peaks around it, both near and far, and have wanted to climb it for quite some time.

DITTO -- though i see now i need to work on my comfort level and scrambling skills first .. maybe someday soon though i hope .. as this mountain calls to me too

great effort and tr and pix all you guys .. and thanks esp for the most informative discussion

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Ingunn
Hiking Viking



Joined: 01 Feb 2008
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Hiking Viking
PostWed Oct 01, 2008 3:00 pm 
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Congratulations, everyone! Great job and thanks for the great report!

GeoTom, you sound so delightfully underwhelmed in the video clips... lol.gif
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wildernessed
viewbagger



Joined: 31 Oct 2004
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viewbagger
PostWed Oct 01, 2008 3:53 pm 
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Ingunn wrote:
Congratulations, everyone! Great job and thanks for the great report!

GeoTom, you sound so delightfully underwhelmed in the video clips... lol.gif

And I thought I was the only one trying to catch my breath hockeygrin.gif, I wish I would remember to video some of my trips, very nice. I imagine the Schmidts and Yukon 222 will have a wealth of eye candy coming soon.

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yukon222
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PostWed Oct 01, 2008 4:03 pm 
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Sorry for the delay in posting the TR/pics from our trip into the area.  Most likely will go up tomorrow night.  Chance of it occurring tonight but more likely tomorrow.  And yes, we do have a few photos that turned out OK.  I wish the larches had started to turn down at Ingalls Lake though.  Only found 1 tree that had turned.  Must have been an over achiever!   lol.gif

Here's a pic of Alti-Dude finishing his climb to the tip-top of Mt Stuart.  Only 4,000' or so drop off the edge past where he is reaching!   eek.gif 
tagging the top
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GeoTom
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PostWed Oct 01, 2008 4:15 pm 
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Quote:
GeoTom, you sound so delightfully underwhelmed in the video clips

Yeah, I need to work on my excitement level a little bit  lol.gif And not be as out of breath while taking the videos either.



Quote:
Sorry for the delay in posting the TR/pics from our trip into the area.

No need to apologize. I realize it's probably Alti-Babe's fault anyway with her delays in getting the slideshow/videos produced.  clown.gif

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Schmidt Alti-Dude
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Joined: 06 Jul 2007
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PostWed Oct 01, 2008 4:45 pm 
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GeoTom wrote:
Quote:
Sorry for the delay in posting the TR/pics from our trip into the area.

No need to apologize. I realize it's probably Alti-Babe's fault anyway with her delays in getting the slideshow/videos produced. clown.gif

Actually, she had to go shopping for bridesmaids dresses for a certain someone's wedding later this year.  Apparently this is very serious business and takes up entire days  huh.gif .

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Go Jo
of the lykkens



Joined: 08 Jun 2003
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of the lykkens
PostWed Oct 01, 2008 5:07 pm 
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yukon222 wrote:
Most likely will go up tomorrow night. Chance of it occurring tonight but more likely tomorrow

It's like the weather channel for the S Team TR arrival. Sounds better than the real forecast for this weekend!
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Sabahsboy
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PostWed Oct 01, 2008 6:15 pm 
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Extraordinary!  Incredible and exhausting!  Magnificent, too!  Any other superlatives?

Many thanks to all for the fantastic work of executing the climb and delivering a splendid photo essay!  Several of the shots made me almost pee!  Too exciting!  Vertigo?!
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