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Tom_Sjolseth Born Yesterday
Joined: 30 May 2007 Posts: 2652 | TRs | Pics Location: Right here. |
Mt. Baker (10,781’) & Sherman Peak (10,140’) – October 25, 2008
Last weekend, I headed up to climb Colfax, Sherman, and Baker. We were only able to manage Colfax and Baker on that trip, so I called on Justus to head up there with me this weekend to take care of unfinished business. We were also to climb Mt. Baker (for the 2nd time in a week for me), since Justus hadn’t climbed it. In fact, this would be Justus' first volcano AND glacier climb. It sounded like a full day, especially with the short October days, so we set an unusually early meeting time of 4AM at Justus’ house, and gave it a go.
After the requisite stops for breakfast and trail provisions, Justus and I arrived at a deserted Shriebers Meadows TH at 6:20. After 20 minutes of packing and remarking how cold it was, we set off at 6:40, with headlamps burning. We took the first right turn off the main trail, and headed up towards the Squak Glacier, the most direct route to climb Sherman Peak (and Mt. Baker, for that matter).
The trail gains 2000’ over 3 miles before we headed up cross-country to gain the toe of the Squak Glacier. The glacier appeared to be in fantastic shape, with ice hard snow down low. This ice hard snow would later turn into calf to knee-deep powder higher up, a different experience than last week where I encountered ice-hard snow all the way to the summit.
The route later became a bit circuitous, as we had to dodge crevasses. We wound up heading towards the Easton Glacier, which seemed less crevassed. We saw a team of three climbers toting skis heading up the Easton Glacier. I thought it might be Jason Hummel, who was supposed to be summitting this weekend (although he stated he wasn’t planning on summitting until Sunday, via a different route). Later on, we found out it was not.
As we ascended towards Sherman Peak, the winds increased considerably. We had been watching a plume of blowing snow coming off the Coleman side of the summit block, and it looked rather ominous. We pressed on in increasing winds towards Sherman. When we got to about 9800’, the wind was so powerful, we had to crouch down and self-belay with our axes so we wouldn’t get blown off. I figured the average wind speed was 35-40MPH, with gusts upwards of 75MPH. Justus disagreed, but these were some of the strongest winds I’ve ever encountered. At times, ice would break off in the wind and come down in huge showers, which sounded like breaking chandeliers. Managing the narrow ridge in these winds was a bit nerveracking (and tiring). Every time the wind gusted, ice chunks would hit us in the face, affecting our sight and balance. We barely made it to the exposed summit without being peeled off.
We wanted to get off of Sherman as fast as possible, so we quickly headed back down to the base of the peak, where we encountered the three skiers we saw heading up the Easton Glacier. They were WWU students out for the day. We were jealous of their skis, as they would certainly get down the mountain much faster than us. On the flipside, though, the ski conditions were terrible, with good-sized neve penitentes everywhere. We spoke with the skiers and they were headed up to Baker’s summit. Justus and I discussed heading up, and we decided to give it a go as well, even though we were exhausted already from battling high winds and postholing. Justus and I led off, breaking trail towards the summit. It was a long, slow 1300’ slog to Baker’s true summit from the base of Sherman Peak. The winds were still humming, but [thankfully] not nearly as much as they were on Sherman. Justus and I tagged the summit, took some photos, and at 4:40PM, began to descend. Darkness sets in at ~6:30 this late in the season, and so we were in a hurry to get off the glacier before it did.
On the way down, we passed the WWU skiers still heading up to the summit. They looked about as worked as we were. Luckily, though, they had skis and would be able to descend rapidly back to the glacier’s toe. Not so lucky for us!
This was a fantastic trip with gorgeous views, and perfect fall lighting. Very good photo opportunities! Justus was a great partner (as always) on this outing, and what a way to climb his first volcano - in a day.
Sherman Peak was my 98th summit on the Top 100 x P400 list. Only Luna (#99) and Castle (#100) remain.
Justus approaching on the lower snow slopes. The route to Sherman Peak from below. The Black Buttes. Justus trying to dodge the wind near Sherman's summit. The view accross the crater from Sherman. More views from a gap in Sherman's W Ridge. Justus traversing in high winds - notice the airborne ice chunks. Mt. Shuksan as seen from the summit of Sherman. Justus descending Sherman in high winds. Notice the plume. Justus and the first skier approaching Baker's summit. The view to the W from the summit of Baker. Lincoln and Colfax just before dusk. Sunset on the Sisters Range.
Trip Stats:
-15 miles
-8800’ gain
-14.5 hours RT
-3.5 hours of sleep on Friday night
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EastKing Surfing and Hiking
Joined: 28 Mar 2007 Posts: 2082 | TRs | Pics Location: 77 miles from Seattle! |
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EastKing
Surfing and Hiking
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Sun Oct 26, 2008 2:17 am
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YouTube | SummitPost
Saw the depths of despair. Now I am salvaging what time I have left on Earth.
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Justus S. Member
Joined: 17 Nov 2004 Posts: 1298 | TRs | Pics Location: WA |
First off, I'd like to thank Tom for suggesting the trip and making it a great climb. It was simply beautiful up there. Not only that, Baker would be my first volcano and tallest peak climbed. I also have to give props to Tom for putting in the steps up the final slopes of Baker. I was simply exhausted. This was certainly one of the most difficult trips I've done.
We arrived early and headed up the trail in the dark. Fresh snow was on the trail further up.
early morning on the trail
We left the trail and were soon traveling up the glacial moraines.Heading up the glacial moraines
As we approached the toe of the glacier it was nice to see the clouds breaking.Clouds beginning to break Mist below
We finally broke above the clouds. It was glorious!Breaking above the clouds Snow, Rock, and Sky
It was great hiking up in the warm sunshine in these beautiful surroundings.Tom and Sherman far above Crevasses Sun and the rising mist Tom and Colfax Tom making his way up Lincoln and Colfax begin to appear Lincoln and mist Tom and Lincoln Peak
Even with the warm sun it would get cold if you stopped for a bit.Prepared for the cold
With the low lying clouds not many peaks were tall enough to show themselves. The clouds below were pretty cool.Glaciers and Glacier Peak Clouds and Ice
We spotted some skiers far below.
Skiers far below
After hiking up and up and up Sherman was finally close at hand.
Nearing Sherman Baker, Sherman saddle Lincoln and Colfax Tom taking in the views Yeah!!! Crater Looking back down the ridge of Sherman Shuksan Tom making his way up the final slopes of Sherman
It was great to reach the lofty summit.Tom on the summit of Sherman
Now it was time to head to Baker. It was a lot of work, but reaching the top was great. The mountain just dwarfs its surroundings.Sherman for Baker's summit Shuksan from Baker Baker Lake from Baker
We headed out as it was getting late. The evening light was spectacular.Evening over the Sisters Range Tom descending in the alpenglow Skiers Evening glow on Sherman Evening light on the Black Buttes Sun setting over the Sisters
An awesome trip!
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Mike Collins Member
Joined: 18 Dec 2001 Posts: 3096 | TRs | Pics
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The two of you are the Dynamic Duo of the Cascades. Strong work. Glad you weren't blown off the rim into the fumerole. At least the wind blew the sulfur smell away for you.
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bobbi stillaGUAMish
Joined: 13 Jul 2006 Posts: 8012 | TRs | Pics Location: olympics! |
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bobbi
stillaGUAMish
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Sun Oct 26, 2008 5:22 pm
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i got back from a day hike feeling warm from the effort, then i read your TR....booommmm! i got cold.
you guys got some fantastic photos on such a great october weekend!
bobbi ૐ
"Today is your day! Your mountain is waiting. So…get on your way!" - Oh, the Places You’ll Go! By Dr. Seuss
bobbi ૐ
"Today is your day! Your mountain is waiting. So…get on your way!" - Oh, the Places You’ll Go! By Dr. Seuss
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Tazz Member
Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 7902 | TRs | Pics
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Tazz
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Sun Oct 26, 2008 5:23 pm
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oh yeah!!! nice!
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Randy Cube Rat
Joined: 18 Dec 2001 Posts: 2910 | TRs | Pics Location: Near the Siamangs |
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Randy
Cube Rat
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Sun Oct 26, 2008 5:37 pm
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Thanks for bringing Baker and Sherman to my living room. Nice to enjoy them with my feet up and without the wind. Way to make the most of a nice October day.
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Layback Cascades Expatriate
Joined: 16 Mar 2007 Posts: 5712 | TRs | Pics Location: Back East |
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Layback
Cascades Expatriate
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Sun Oct 26, 2008 6:59 pm
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Nice work guys. Awesome seeing a TR for Sherman.
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Don Member
Joined: 25 Apr 2005 Posts: 2013 | TRs | Pics Location: Fairwood, WA |
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Don
Member
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Sun Oct 26, 2008 7:14 pm
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Gallant effort, especially by Tom two weeks in a row! Also, excellent pics. Who thinks of climbing Mt. Baker in October? Oh, I guess that question has already been answered. Any idea what the temps were on the summit?
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Tom_Sjolseth Born Yesterday
Joined: 30 May 2007 Posts: 2652 | TRs | Pics Location: Right here. |
Don, if I had to guess, I'd say temps on the summit were right around 20-25 degrees -- at the warmest time of day. Although the windchill was enough to freeze your snot instantly. I was just warm enough not to sweat while climbing in a base layer, a schoeller top, a pac-lite jacket, and an OR PS50 balaclava. If I stood around for much time, I needed to don my down.
Thanks for the comments, folks!
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MtnManic Member
Joined: 27 Feb 2008 Posts: 502 | TRs | Pics Location: Kirkland WA |
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MtnManic
Member
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Sun Oct 26, 2008 7:52 pm
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Very nice pictures - that's how I like to climb - vicariously.
Backpacking: limited to one pack at a time. Cameras: limited to as many as I can carry.
Backpacking: limited to one pack at a time. Cameras: limited to as many as I can carry.
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seattlehikertoo Member
Joined: 26 Jun 2008 Posts: 582 | TRs | Pics Location: Finding an alternative to Mailbox Pk |
You guys just crank. Awesome shots with the summit cone against the sky.
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Josh Journey a.k.a Josh Lewis
Joined: 01 Nov 2007 Posts: 4836 | TRs | Pics
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Josh Journey
a.k.a Josh Lewis
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Sun Oct 26, 2008 9:14 pm
Out of this world!
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Tom_Sjolseth wrote: | Sunset on the Sisters Range. |
Incredible photos!! Two thumbs way up! Very very nice trip report! Know I have to climb Baker! What a beautiful world it is up there! Thanks for sharing! Cheers Josh Lewis.
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Jennifer S. Member
Joined: 06 Aug 2007 Posts: 228 | TRs | Pics Location: South Puget Sound |
wow, what incredibly gorgeous pics! thanks for sharing.
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Go Jo of the lykkens
Joined: 08 Jun 2003 Posts: 2248 | TRs | Pics Location: Around The Bend |
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Go Jo
of the lykkens
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Sun Oct 26, 2008 10:38 pm
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Justus S. wrote: | Tom and Lincoln Peak |
Fantastic photo, outrageous accomplishment! Well done to the 2 of you.
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