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Matt Tea, Earl Grey, Hot
Joined: 30 Jan 2007 Posts: 4307 | TRs | Pics Location: Shoreline |
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Matt
Tea, Earl Grey, Hot
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Sat Nov 01, 2008 2:46 am
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Dates: October 25-26, 2008
Destination: Persis 5464, Persindex 5360, Index 5979
Party: Matt, Dicey, Yana
2008: A Persis-Index Odyssey. “My God, It’s full of tarns!”
Our odyssey traversed the ridge running from Persis to Persindex to Index, and back again.
2 labels The Persis-Index Odyssey - from Persis at lower left, to Persindex at far right, and onward to Index at upper left. 17 labels Persindex Basin, "My God, It's Full of Tarns."
The basin at the Persindex Col has the highest density of alpine tarns that I’ve seen anywhere. At least 13 distinct tarns within one tenth of a mile, plus myriad smaller pools and streams. Surrounded by sweeping granite slabs and high promontories. Framed by steep rock cliffs. Opening to wide views stretching from Cascade crest heights to Puget Sound lowlands.
All of which raises a difficult question: Should this be one of the secret places, left unreported so that it won’t be despoiled by over-use? Personally, I believe special places are best honored when they are respectfully visited and enjoyed, not left hidden and empty. I don't want over-use, but I think beautiful places can be preserved by a combination of difficult access and an encouragement to self-discipline, which promotes respect for the place. So here are my three caveats for this report:
- The route is difficult. It includes third-class scrambling on steep terrain, with dense tree limbs to crawl through, large boulders to climb over, and cross-country navigation. If you don’t turn at the right places, you will get cliffed out.
- The place is worthy of respect. If you go through the effort to get there, make it worthwhile by treating the area carefully. Camp away from the tarns, and stay on rock where possible. Fortunately, the ground immediately adjacent to the tarns is rocky anyway, which discourages camping and reduces impact.
- I won’t put specific route info to Persindex basin in the trip report. If you want to know more, pm me, and we’ll discuss it.
Saturday
Persis
The “trail” to Persis was its usual mess, a steep track up through clearcuts, with misty clouds making the dirt slippery and the brush wet. The two tarns below Persis were mostly frozen, but beginning to emerge from the clouds.
Sunburst through fog on Persis trail Persis Lower Tarn sunlit Persis Upper Tarn Persis Upper Tarn from above
Looking down from the summit, the Skykomish valley was bright yellow-orange amid the darker peaks. As Dicey phrased it, “It looks Halloweeny.”
West Wall of Index veiled in clouds Halloweeny Skykomish Valley from Persis
Traverse from Persis to Persindex
Next we traveled from Persis to the Persindex Col. The big boulder field made Dicey cry (after one of the big rocks failed to move out of the way of her head.) The ridge had impressively steep cliff faces. A tarn in the final gully was completely iced over.
The ridge between Persis & Persindex The boulder field that made Dicey cry Standing in a frozen tarn Ice droplet
Persindex Col & Tarns
At Persindex Col, 5200, we found a wonderland of benches and tarns, which the recent weather had decorated in snow and ice.
11 labels Northwest Col & Central Basin tarns, from Camp Promontory (labeled) 17 labels Central Basin, Southwest Knoll, and Western Annex tarns (labeled)
To keep track of it all, I made up groups and names for some of the tarns & features that I found particularly remarkable:
- The Northwest Col – three small tarns near the crest of the col, including:
- View Tarn – a semi-triangular tarn at the highest point, with views to nearby peaks.
- Dicey’s Tarn – northernmost tarn, nearest the cliffs.
- The Central Basin – two large tarns, two smaller tarns, plus several streams and smaller pools, including:
- Central Tarn – a larger diamond-shaped tarn, directly below Persindex.
- Tributary Tarns – two tarns upstream from Central Tarn, the closest of which is
- Flowing Tarn – a shallow narrow tarn with an open lead of water that melted during the days and froze at night.
- Lower Tarn – a round tarn further south, below a rock step.
- The Southwest Knoll – four small tarns on a tree-edged knoll southwest of the Central Basin.
- The Western Annex - a large tarn and one or more smaller tarns, on a lower shelf around a corner from the rest of the basin. I didn’t even find these till the next day.
- Camp Promontory – a rocky promontory stretching west above the Central Basin, with broad flat-topped terraces, steep cliff edges, and little puddles cupped in the rocks.
Northwest Col tarns (two nearby, and a third hiding near the orange dot of Dicey) View Tarn & Persis View Tarn & Persindex Central Tarn & Point 5308
Persindex
We made a quick run up Persindex. Lucky we dropped our packs first, because we could barely squeeze through as we twisted and climbed between tree limbs against steep rocks.
Ascending Persindex Matt on Persindex summit Dicey & Yana on Persindex summit Looking down Anderson Creek
Evening at Persindex Tarns
As we descended from Persindex, evening light caught the tarns.
Dicey’s Tarn & Persis Central, Lower, & Flowing tarns, plus some neighbors Tributary Tarns & Southwest Knoll tarns
Before returning to camp, I wandered among the tarns, admiring the shadows and reflections on the ice.
My shadow on Dicey’s tarn Peaks beyond the outlet of the Central Tarn Reflection on an open lead in Flowing Tarn Central Tarn & Tributary Tarns, from a viewpoint halfway up to camp
Persindex Camp
Our camp was on the wide flat-topped promontory west of the tarns, with territorial views stretching from mountains eastward to sound westward. As the evening darkened, it was odd to be able to sit on a high rocky campsite and look out to distant archipelagos of city lights.
Evening light on Persis Water Dining Room Dinner Layered Peaks & Clouds Sunset Night Lights
Sunday
Morning brought orange skies above a clear mountain horizon.
The Mother Ship has landed – Yana’s many-reflectored tent Morning at camp
Morning at Persindex Tarns
Before breakfast, I went wandering among the tarns again to savor them in the dawn light.
Dawn breaking above View Tarn & Index Dawn at View Tarn & Persis Dawn reflected on fresh-frozen Flowing Tarn Dawn reflected on Flowing Tarn Flowing Tarn & Camp Promontory, with Yana on crest at center
Traverse to Index
The way trail to Index begins at the outlet of Central Tarn, which gave me my first good view of Lower Tarn.
Intersecting shadows & reflections on Lower Tarn Lower Tarn, with the Southwest Knoll at Left and Camp Promontory at right Hiking past pools in the outlet stream from Central Tarn
There was actually a recognizable way trail most of the way from Persindex to Index. At first it ran south of the crest, but later mostly north of the crest, crossing back and forth where needed. The route options seemed to alternate between steep dense trees on the south side, steep exposed meadows on the north, or steep rock cliffs scattered everywhere. On the map, the route passed Point 5308 on the south, then ran mostly on the north, went over the top of the last sub-point before Point 5217, then descended a very steep section (literally hanging from tree to tree) to get down to the 4900-foot divide between Persis and Index.
A key route-finding clue – follow the blue polka dots. Seriously, there were some blue-polka-dotted flags, just in four places, but they were key turning points.
From the 4900 divide, we followed the treed nose of Index’s west ridge up to the cliff band circa 5500. We got past the cliff by a steep rightward traverse on frozen scree, then a scramble up clean rocks. From there it was easy slopes to the top.
Blue Polka-Dotted Flat Following the way trail on the north side Looking back at the steep east wall of Persis Looking back at the Camp Promontory (center) and Persindex (right) Shadows & Persis
Index Summit
I noticed that Index is really steep.
On a point east of the summit. Philadelphia, plus Merchant, Townsend & Baring Index townsite & Skykomish confluence Lake Serene Index Summit pan
Afternoon Swim at Persindex Tarns
A few weeks ago, Yana mentioned that she would have swum in a high tarn by Greenwood, but she’d have had to break the surface ice with her ice axe. I wondered, would I be willing to try it if I found a lake with ice thin enough to break?
Hiking past the Central Tarn this morning, Dicey threw a big rock down at the ice near the outlet, and it punched through, showing the ice was fairly thin. Would this be the day to try it?
When we got back to the Central Tarn this afternoon, the sun was shining warm, so I waded in and chopped the ice far enough back to make a swimming hole. It wasn’t too bad except when I accidentally kicked the ice with my foot while swimming.
Swimming in the Central Tarn Swimming amid some floating ice
With blue skies overhead, I wandered around to savor the views of the tarns in their afternoon sunlit raiment before departing.
Central Tarn thawing Central Basin Tarns, with Index summit beyond Southwest Knoll Tarns Western Annex Tarns
Exit Hike & Another Swim
We retraced our route back to Persis and down to the car, barely outpacing the dark end of the short daylight. The gully tarn was still quite frozen. Passing by, I was entranced for one last time by the icy reflections
Hiking past the Gully Tarn Ice reflection of cliff walls in Gully Tarn The terrain heading back up to Persis
The Persis Upper Tarn was completely thawed, leaving no excuse for avoiding a quick swim in this tarn as well.
Persis Upper Tarn Swimming in Persis Upper Tarn Late light on Persis Lower Tarn
Conclusion
It’s a rare privilege to have enjoyed a special place throughout a complete cycle of daylight and weather:
Arriving on a cold cloudy afternoon, with the tarns gray and freezing below hazy ranks of peaks.
At sunset, with the peaks glowing softly above the tarns.
At sunrise, with the tarns reflecting rosy pink skies.
And departing on a clear warm afternoon, with the tarns bright and thawing in the sunshine.
Caveat
This report is an expression of my delight with the Persindex tarns vicinity. If it inspires others to go there, please let it equally inspire you to tread lightly and preserve the area. Hike on the rocks where possible, camp away from the tarns, and try to leave it as beautiful as you found it.
“As beacons mountains burned at evening.” J.R.R. Tolkien
“As beacons mountains burned at evening.” J.R.R. Tolkien
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seawallrunner dilettante
Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 3305 | TRs | Pics Location: Lotusland |
beautiful photos Matt !
On the topic of posting reports about remote/sacred places: many of us will read the report and think "oh I would love to go there too". But life gets in the way. A destination on a tick list does not a trip make. Most of us are caught up in work, relationships, hiking/climbing partner schedules. There are only 52 weekends in a year, with only a few weekends in there for the wild and woolly trips. For many of us, these trip lists will remain just that - beautiful dream destinations on a list.
So thank you for posting about your remote ridgewalk. What a beautiful series of photos, what great adventure and what a spectacular location!
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peltoms Member
Joined: 13 Jul 2006 Posts: 1760 | TRs | Pics Location: Worcester MA |
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peltoms
Member
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Sat Nov 01, 2008 4:23 am
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Tarn ation what a trip Matt, Dicey and Yana. Persindex basin, never heard or thought of it. But gorgeous indeed, who would think all those tarns would be their looking up from below. I love the reflection amidst the ice and the central tarn looking like Shangri la has been reached. What led to the three of you coming up with this adventure? This is must read-see trip reporting.
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EastKing Surfing and Hiking
Joined: 28 Mar 2007 Posts: 2082 | TRs | Pics Location: 77 miles from Seattle! |
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EastKing
Surfing and Hiking
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Sat Nov 01, 2008 5:28 am
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I gave some thought of traverse the ridge the last time I was on Persis. Now I know what to expect. Awesome TR!!
YouTube | SummitPost
Saw the depths of despair. Now I am salvaging what time I have left on Earth.
YouTube | SummitPost
Saw the depths of despair. Now I am salvaging what time I have left on Earth.
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run4cache Member
Joined: 18 Jun 2006 Posts: 137 | TRs | Pics
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Awesome report! I've thought of doing this for a long time and now I know it is better than I had even hoped. Great detail, photos and craziness (swimming in the ice pools?). Thanks for sharing the info.
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Hulksmash Cleaning up.
Joined: 20 Apr 2008 Posts: 7113 | TRs | Pics Location: Arlington |
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Hulksmash
Cleaning up.
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Sat Nov 01, 2008 7:30 am
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Quote: | All of which raises a difficult question: Should this be one of the secret places, left unreported so that it won’t be despoiled by over-use? Personally, I believe special places are best honored when they are respectfully visited and enjoyed, not left hidden and empty. |
I agree! However with tools like Google earth, Virtual earth, Flash earth, etc. Not many places are "secret" anymore.
Quote: | The route is difficult. It includes third-class scrambling on steep terrain, with thick tree limbs to climb through, large boulders to climb over, and cross-country navigation. If you don’t turn at the right places, you will get cliffed out. |
This will most likely filter out overuse.
Persis has been on my to do list but like seawallrunner said there's only 52 weeks in a year.
Thank you for shareing
"Bears couldn't care less about us....we smell bad and don't taste too good. Bugs on the other hand see us as vending machines." - WetDog
Albuterol! it's the 11th essential
"Bears couldn't care less about us....we smell bad and don't taste too good. Bugs on the other hand see us as vending machines." - WetDog
Albuterol! it's the 11th essential
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Magellan Brutally Handsome
Joined: 26 Jul 2006 Posts: 13116 | TRs | Pics Location: Inexorable descent |
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Magellan
Brutally Handsome
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Sat Nov 01, 2008 7:43 am
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Wonderful trip, thanks for sharing. Your TRs continue to inspire. I had no idea that traverse was so cool. I think the length and difficulty will keep the crowds down.
Matt wrote: | The Persis Upper Tarn was completely thawed, leaving no excuse for avoiding a quick swim in this tarn as well. |
You are kinda crazy.
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Tazz Member
Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 7902 | TRs | Pics
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Tazz
Member
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Sat Nov 01, 2008 8:27 am
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I so wanted to be on that trip!!! Great report and of course top notch pics Matt!!!
I will get back into shape to join all you goofs again...SOON!
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wildernessed viewbagger
Joined: 31 Oct 2004 Posts: 9275 | TRs | Pics Location: Wenatchee |
Awesome Matt, you finally made it through there. All things in time. Great pics, looks like a future trip.
Living in the Anthropocene
Living in the Anthropocene
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naturealbeing Member
Joined: 05 Dec 2004 Posts: 1565 | TRs | Pics Location: Great Mystery |
Great trip, beautifully documented with your images and story. Thanks for taking the time to share your wonderful trip.
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Jeff R Closet hiker.
Joined: 10 Apr 2005 Posts: 972 | TRs | Pics Location: Everret |
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Jeff R
Closet hiker.
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Sat Nov 01, 2008 10:01 am
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I thought this report would never come! And what a read it is, well
worth the wait.
Great pictures and the formatt of writing is very detailed, cleaver,and entertaining.
Matt wrote: | West Wall of Index veiled in clouds |
I like this image a lot. It has that motivational feel to it. Like the pictures you see in offices, teamwork, ect.
Ice tarn swimming?
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MtnManic Member
Joined: 27 Feb 2008 Posts: 502 | TRs | Pics Location: Kirkland WA |
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MtnManic
Member
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Sat Nov 01, 2008 10:15 am
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Your photos would inspire me to go there, but the reality is I will not. I can visit vicariously through your report and photos.
For myself, I enjoy reports and photos of places I will not get to.
Wonderful photos.
Backpacking: limited to one pack at a time. Cameras: limited to as many as I can carry.
Backpacking: limited to one pack at a time. Cameras: limited to as many as I can carry.
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seattlehikertoo Member
Joined: 26 Jun 2008 Posts: 582 | TRs | Pics Location: Finding an alternative to Mailbox Pk |
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Schroder Member
Joined: 26 Oct 2007 Posts: 6696 | TRs | Pics Location: on the beach |
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Schroder
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Sat Nov 01, 2008 12:41 pm
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Great photos. It's looks a lot colder than when I was there 2 days later. Did you see any signs of a trail on the South side of PersIndex? There's a fresh clearcut on Road 6200 that looks like it's only a couple of hundred feet below the top on the Tolt drainage.
BTW this route is in lots of guide books - not very secret.
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Ingunn Hiking Viking
Joined: 01 Feb 2008 Posts: 1751 | TRs | Pics Location: Redmond |
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Ingunn
Hiking Viking
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Sat Nov 01, 2008 1:32 pm
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Beautiful - so many fantastic photos!!
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