[Justus S.]

May 23-25, 2009 The idea for this trip starts back in late 2005 on my trip to Marble Peak. I was intrigued on that trip. Several months later, in 2006, I was again reminded on another trip I the area. As we all know, getting into the Copper Lake area is no trivial matter. I figured the best way in was to hike in from Headlee Pass and down the Vesper Glacier. Success, of course, would only come in spring when there was ample snow to cover the glacier. In May 2007, I set out to visit the area on a day trip. I became exhausted near the base of the glacier. Looking back, I was not prepared for the difficulties of this undertaking, especially, in one day.

2005

2006

Wow, three beautiful days on Memorial Day weekend with the Mtn Loop Hwy opening up just a few days prior. I knew, I could finally undertake what had been on my mind for some time. With a heavy backpack of overnight and climbing gear I set out to walk the two extra miles to the Sunrise Mine Trailhead. The road was still covered with snow. The early morning brought coolness as I hiked up the trail. The big water crossing was tricky with the heavy pack. Once across the creek, I made my way up the open slopes before the trail heads into the basin below Headlee Pass. It was getting quite warm already.

Big Four, Dry Creek as I start my hike

Sperry on the walk up the road

Del Campo on road walk

I hiked up the basin and pushed my way to Headlee Pass. Feeling how much effort it was taking, I knew, I would not be making it much further. I made my way from the pass to the area before Lake Elan and stopped there. I set up my tarp and sleeping bag and commenced on some much needed rest. I rested for most of the day. Several guys came by on their way to Vesper that I chatted with between naps. Once evening arrived and the snow slopes had cooled off, I decided to head for the top of the glacier and have a look. Pt5800 was close, and I made the jaunt up to the top of that also. That evening was a bit chilly and I had trouble sleeping. It was my first time sleeping on snow.

Look down Headlee

Headlee Pass

Glacier and Sloan from Headlee

Tracks back to Headlee

Hiker and Skier heading up

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Skier coming down

Bird on snow

Skier and Morning Star

Sun and Vesper

Ridge to Vesper

view down the glacier

Ridge to Vesper

Camp

Evening on Morning Star

Day 2 I awoke early and followed my tracks from the previous evening. Dropping down the glacier was pretty trivial except for one place where I slipped down the slope a bit. A short distance from the lake, I dropped extra gear and headed up for the saddle between Little Chief and Peak 4880+(my goal). I was moving a bit slower than I wanted perhaps due to the previous day's fatigue. At the saddle and base of the climb I encountered what I expected some steep terrain. The terrain was steep and dirty rock. I worked my way up, very slowly, and protected myself as best I could. At one point I felt very uncomfortable and decided to drive a piton to rappel down. This was fortunate as it allowed me to move over and find a better way. I was glad to finally reach the protection of the trees above. Once in the trees I worked my way up. At a sketchy little traverse I pulled out the rope again. It was then snow to the summit.

Morning in the Monte Cristo Range

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My summit and Little Chief, early morning from top of glacier

First light hitting Vesper as I make my way down

looking down

Peak 4880+ and Little Chief

Lake on the way down

Looking back from near the lake

Vesper Glacier from saddle

looking down from the saddle

the other side of the saddle

Little Chief Peak from summit

Copper Lake from summit

Big Four from summit

Hall from summit

Marble Peak from summit

summit ridge

Vesper from summit

me on the summit

After down climbing the snow and making a few rappels I was back at the saddle. The climb had taken me much longer than I had anticipated, and I became concerned about re-ascending the glacier in the afternoon heat. On the descent back to my gear my concerns were not unfounded as a small slide sweep partway across the glacier. I would have to spend an extra night out. Since a had several hours to spare before I would begin my ascent back up, I set out to find a nice rock. I found the nicest of rocks just before reaching the lake. I proceed to rest and read a few Bible verses, it was Sunday afterall. The first few hours were nice and warm. The later few hours grew cool since the sun sits too low in the sky to shine over the nearby ridges.

Tracks and Vesper

looking back toward the summit

Vesper on descent

Vesper Glacier on the way down

the steep section at the base

Looking up

Fresh avy, top center

nice rock for resting on

Copper and Marble from rock

Vesper from rock

When it was time to leave I headed over to the lake to check out the little bit of unfrozen water. There was certainly more snow that my trip in 2007. I then began the long 2600 gain up the valley. Enroute, I checked out the slide that I had seen earlier. It had come within three feet of my morning tracks. With the long climb out completed I dropped to my gear and set up camp in the dark. I rested a little better this time. The next morning I made the descent and road walk to the car. The creek was still a little tricky. An amazing trip I will not soon forget.

Inflow stream

Big Four and Copper

Shores of Copper Lake

Looking back at Copper

Earlier avalanche

Steep cliffs surround

Looking back in the late evening

Getting late as I look up to the top of the glacier

The next morning, Morning Star from my camp

camp

Morning glow on Vesper

Red Mtn from near camp

From Headlee Pass

Red Mtn from Headlee Pass

Glacier and Sloan on the way down

Sun and peaks from near Headlee Pass

[the Zachster]

What an absolutely amazing effort ...and congratulations! I've looked down there from Vesper thinking that it was one of those places that nobody goes. Well, almost nobody! Just awesome. And your photos are beautiful as well.

[Tom_Sjolseth]

AWESOME photos, Justus! Especially looking towards Big Four from Pt 5800'. I'm glad your knee is doing better, and I look forward to getting out on some trips with you soon. Love the bike helmet.

[iron]

is that a beard i see or just some weird shadows

[Justus S.]

240, There are good methods for solo climbing serious stuff. This was a class3-4 mix, I just kinda improvised for the short sketchy sections by running a loop or directly clipping. Tom, I knew you'd get me on the helmet. Iron, I could just say it grows fast in the mtns, but the truth is I haven't shaved for a week.

[Hulksmash]

[puzzlr]

Gutsy plan, fantastic trip report and rare views. I especially liked these

[Jim Dockery]

Cool. Way to find a little solitude and an interesting new challenge in a well traveled area.

[wildernessed]

Strong work Justus !

[Scrooge]

Justus, not so very long ago, there was considerable discussion about possible expeditions up Williamson Creek or over Marble Pass to explore the Copper Outfall and Copper Lake. Someone named Justus suggested that it would be easier to get there via Headlee Pass and the Vesper Glacier, and proved it with this remarkable photo.

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30min from the lake and 5hrs from the Mtn Loop Hwy

Your latest venture would seem to put a damper on the idea of ordinary hikers undertaking such a trip, and it makes the "5 hours from the Mountain Loop Highway" a little hard to understand. What did I miss? It doesn't really matter, Justus. The first trip was awesome; this one is amazing.

And the photography continues to be breathtaking.

[Justus S.]

Scrooge, I think you missed the fact that carrying the extra weight of climbing gear takes its toll. I don't ever think I said a trip to the lake would be easy. It is going to take some effort to get to the lake. You guys are not ordinary in my book.

[Hulksmash]

[Schroder]

Great one, Justus! I've looked at that peak many times & I think Klenke is right - that was a first ascent. I tried to climb Big 4 from that side several times & couldn't find a route that would go. We went partway up that peak once to take some photos for recon.

[Tazz]

Good work justus!

[Dayhike Mike]

As Scrooge noted, this was an impressive trip. Good call on staying the second night. Thanks for highlighting it again, Scrooge! And big ups as always, Justus...