Forum Index > Trip Reports > Mount Baker, Easton Glacier 5/23 to 5/25/09
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Arete
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Joined: 29 Oct 2006
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Location: Bothell, WA
Arete
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PostTue May 26, 2009 2:06 pm 
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We took advantage of the sunny long weekend to play in the snow up on Mount Baker with our boys and two good friends. On Saturday (May 23) we were able to drive up FS Road 13 exactly 3.0 miles before snow forced us to park (along with many other vehicles). The first mile of road walking was mostly snow-free and it was obvious that soon it would be possible to drive within about 1 or 1.5 miles of the trailhead at Schreiber’s Meadow (this was the case when we came down on Monday).

Route from the trailhead (we walked 2.5 miles of the road to get there) to base camp (and return route shown)
Route from the trailhead (we walked 2.5 miles of the road to get there) to base camp (and return route shown)
Five sixths of the crew saddled up at the parking spot (3 miles up Road 13; ~ 2850 ft) and ready to head up!
Five sixths of the crew saddled up at the parking spot (3 miles up Road 13; ~ 2850 ft) and ready to head up!
Schriebers Meadow trailhead area
Schriebers Meadow trailhead area

The snow on the road was easy walking, having been packed from snowmobiles, skis, and snowshoes. We made good time up through the meadows, staying on the snowmobile tracks. We followed the drainage east of the Railroad Grade up the lower slopes of Mt Baker, staying on some pleasant small ridges at the east edge of the drainage to keep above the fumes and drone of the snowmobiles.

The pack leader herding his mule train up the stream drainage east of the Railroad Grade
The pack leader herding his mule train up the stream drainage east of the Railroad Grade
Resting on the way up the stream drainage east of the Railroad Grade
Resting on the way up the stream drainage east of the Railroad Grade
The Railroad Grade
The Railroad Grade
The stream basin leading to the upper Railroad Grade (from ~4600 ft)
The stream basin leading to the upper Railroad Grade (from ~4600 ft)

It did not take us long to decide that we were tired of the big loads (can someone explain why our packs always look 50% larger than anyone else we meet – is that an optical illusion others experience?  hmmm.gif ). Thus, we abandoned our plan of following the drainage straight up to camp at about 6500 feet on the Railroad Grade (as others did) as too much of a wilting experience in the afternoon sun. Instead we headed up a short steep snow slope to the top of the Railroad Grade where we could find some trees for a shady camp. We reached the top of the RR Grade at about 5200 feet and found a nice campsite at 5400 feet in a stand of mountain hemlock and subalpine fir immediately west of the main ridgeline.

Heading over to ascend the slope up to the Railroad Grade
Heading over to ascend the slope up to the Railroad Grade
Final slope to the top of the Railroad Grade
Final slope to the top of the Railroad Grade
Finally on top of the Railroad Grade
Finally on top of the Railroad Grade
Upper Railroad Grade (on left) and Easton Glacier
Upper Railroad Grade (on left) and Easton Glacier
Railroad Grade
Railroad Grade
Camp among the trees at 5400 feet on the Railroad Grade
Camp among the trees at 5400 feet on the Railroad Grade

The boys immediately set about constructing snow benches for our kitchen, viewing, and part of their constructed “play room”, as well as a system of trails between the tents and various benches. Who knew Life Link shovels could be so entertaining?  hmmm.gif

Settling in for dinner at camp
Settling in for dinner at camp
Our "View Bench" at camp
Our "View Bench" at camp
Easton Glacier and upper slopes (zoom picture from camp)
Easton Glacier and upper slopes (zoom picture from camp)
Evening light on the Easton Glacier
Evening light on the Easton Glacier

That evening we spoke with some overheated and dehydrated climbers descending who warned us of hot afternoon conditions and slushy snow on the glacier. That prompted us to set an early departure time as our camp was more than 5300 feet below the summit. The night was warm, well above freezing.

We woke at 1:00 AM and set about taking way too long to get everyone up and ready (getting the boys dressed and convinced to crawl out of their cozy bags at 1 in the morning was a major accomplishment  agree.gif ).  It took us until just after 2:30 to get ready and finally begin the climb up the RR Grade by headlamp. The snow was firm in the previous day’s snowshoe tracks and we made good progress with crampons. We could see the lights of a few larger groups already on the Easton Glacier above.

Ascending the Railroad Grade by headlamp
Ascending the Railroad Grade by headlamp

Unfortunately just a half hour outside of camp, our younger boy had serious problems with his new boots – painful rubbing and heel slipping. We perched ourselves on the ridge and by headlamp we spent the better part of an hour trying various sock and lacing combinations without success. Finding boots to fit wide 8-yr old boy’s feet that can be used for occasional light mountaineering has been very difficult. There have been some plastic boots that fit, but they proved too heavy and clunky – making him just as tired and cranky as his parents. At any rate, without a good solution, Mom offered to descend back to the tent with a disappointed boy (who ended up having a snooze and great time hanging out at camp and playing in the snow all day).

Our other son, myself and our two friends continued upward, to the crunch of crampons and hints of early morning light to the east. It was very warm for an alpine start. At about 6500 feet we came upon a helmet lying in the snow, headlamp attached and shining, with no body attached.  eek.gif Spooky. Later we found out it had been dropped at a rest stop above and slid down to where we found it. We traversed onto the glacier at about 6600 feet, now with a beautiful pink sky. The boot track up the lower glacier was obvious, passing camps at 7000 and about 7200 feet.

Ascending to the lower Easton Glacier
Ascending to the lower Easton Glacier
Ascending the lower Easton Glacier
Ascending the lower Easton Glacier
Looking up the Easton Glacier in the early morning light
Looking up the Easton Glacier in the early morning light
Arched serac at sunrise
Arched serac at sunrise
View up the upper Easton Glacier in early morning (zoom picture; distances foreshortened)
View up the upper Easton Glacier in early morning (zoom picture; distances foreshortened)
Following the track of footprints up the Easton Glacier
Following the track of footprints up the Easton Glacier
Approximate climbing route on the Easton Glacier
Approximate climbing route on the Easton Glacier

We slowly made our way up to the rim Sherman Crater (9660 ft) with only one significant crevasse crossing (solid and wide bridge). However, the crevasses should be opening up quickly with the afternoon temperatures we experienced.  We rested at the crater rim, having a delightful brunch, bathed in the aroma of sulfur  dizzy.gif .

The sun finally hits on the Easton Glacier
The sun finally hits on the Easton Glacier
On the upper Easton Glacier
On the upper Easton Glacier
The Sherman Crater above
The Sherman Crater above
Ascending the upper Easton Glacier (~8500 ft)
Ascending the upper Easton Glacier (~8500 ft)
Arriving at the edge of Sherman Crater (10,660 ft)
Arriving at the edge of Sherman Crater (10,660 ft)

That long rest rejuvenated us and we headed up the final 30 degree slopes just above the crater to the summit plateau.  By the time we got to the summit (10,781 ft), it was early afternoon and most everyone with common sense was well on their way down the mountain (or had skis with them for a quick descent).

Leaving the Sherman Crater (9740 ft)
Leaving the Sherman Crater (9740 ft)
Ascending the upper slopes (10,000 ft)
Ascending the upper slopes (10,000 ft)
Shedding layers (10,400 ft) as we work up the steep final slopes above Sherman Crater
Shedding layers (10,400 ft) as we work up the steep final slopes above Sherman Crater
Aidan on the warm trudge across the summit plateau
Aidan on the warm trudge across the summit plateau
Looking across the summit plateau at the true summit
Looking across the summit plateau at the true summit
Three fourths of the summit team on top
Three fourths of the summit team on top

The summit view was as glorious as ever and despite the increasing warmth we hung out for an hour, soaking in the vista.

View SE from the summit
View SE from the summit
Looking east from the summit, Mt Shuksan in the foreground
Looking east from the summit, Mt Shuksan in the foreground

The descent was soft on the upper slopes and we met a snowmobiler at the crater rim (9600 ft). Further down the glacier it quickly became a furnace and “Baking on Baker” became our motto. The glacier turned into a delightfully slippery layer of calf- to knee-deep slush  shakehead.gif . We had carried snowshoes to the crater rim and were glad to have them on the descent  up.gif , though the snowshoes without teeth on the rim did not grip well and acted more as slippery skis (prompting those with such snowshoes to take them off and posthole down steeper slopes and declare an intention to get better snowshoes!). We pulled into camp in the early evening, tired and literally fried (baked, sautéed, boiled, and other such versions of being cooked alive) waah.gif  waah.gif . Our universal advice was to get back to camp by noon if at all possible (though folks camped higher in exposed places described their tents as ovens in the afternoon).

Descending across the summit plateau
Descending across the summit plateau
Snowmobile at the Sherman Crater (9660 ft)
Snowmobile at the Sherman Crater (9660 ft)
Baking on Baker during the descent
Baking on Baker during the descent
Fine freeze-dried dining
Fine freeze-dried dining
Enjoying the comforts of camp
Enjoying the comforts of camp

The next day we woke with sunburns and swollen lips, prompting us to don bandanas for the trip out. We had a campsite glissade party on nearby slopes that our younger son and his mom had scouted while we were climbing – including the infamous “drop of doom” that most of the adults were too scared to tackle.  eek.gif  shakehead.gif

Early morning sunlight on camp (Memorial Day)
Early morning sunlight on camp (Memorial Day)
Glissading party before leaving camp
Glissading party before leaving camp
Snow sliding fun before breaking camp
Snow sliding fun before breaking camp
Team Bandit preparing to leave camp
Team Bandit preparing to leave camp

We descended the RR Grade to about 4400 feet where we dropped off the ridge to the east down a steep treed slope to the drainage we had ascended two days earlier. This was an okay route down, but probably not as easy as following the snowmobile route that comes up onto the RR grade from its western side. Once down in the drainage to the east of the RR Grade we easily followed the snowmobile tracks out to the road (many fewer of these buzzing machines on Monday smile.gif ).

Starting down the Railroad Grade from camp
Starting down the Railroad Grade from camp
Descending the Railroad Grade
Descending the Railroad Grade
Descending the Railroad Grade
Descending the Railroad Grade
Descending off of the Railroad Grade
Descending off of the Railroad Grade
The tree slope we descended off of the Railroad Grade at 4400 feet
The tree slope we descended off of the Railroad Grade at 4400 feet

It is a fun climb and the glacier is currently in good shape – just plan on being down off the glacier in some cooler place by afternoon!
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wildernessed
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Joined: 31 Oct 2004
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wildernessed
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PostTue May 26, 2009 2:57 pm 
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Awesome TR as usual, your kids get to enjoy some great adventures.

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I object to violence because when it appears to do good, the good is only temporary; the evil it does is permanent_Gandhi
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silence
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silence
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PostTue May 26, 2009 3:31 pm 
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EXCELLENT!!! in every way ... great tr and pix ... but awesome effort .... you guys rock!

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PHOTOS: https://www.flickr.com/photos/33792231@N00/sets
FILMMAKING: http://www.crestpictures.com/

Keep a good head and always carry a light bulb. – Bob Dylan
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David¹
Token Canadian



Joined: 25 Jul 2002
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David¹
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PostTue May 26, 2009 3:50 pm 
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Great Beta - Thanks

Nice to see the young ones up there.

I'm looking to climb Baker...

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Warning! Posts may contain traces of sarcasm.

Hiking Website: http://members.shaw.ca/karenanddavid/Index.htm
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Huron
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Joined: 13 Sep 2004
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Huron
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PostTue May 26, 2009 4:37 pm 
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Ambitious! Every kid should have parents like that.
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peltoms
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peltoms
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PostTue May 26, 2009 4:38 pm 
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Nice campsite, good execution of the summit plant. Railroad grade ascents not the death defying thrill of the snow free period. What a perfect day. smile.gif
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Layback
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Layback
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PostTue May 26, 2009 4:56 pm 
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Awesome!  Those kids rock!  And their parents too!
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Shadow
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Shadow
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PostTue May 26, 2009 7:51 pm 
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Great report and I remember seeing you and the kids up there up.gif

Arete wrote:
At about 6500 feet we came upon a helmet lying in the snow, headlamp attached and shining, with no body attached.  eek.gif Spooky. 

It was one of the people in my party that dropped that helmet and I made a diving effort to try and catch it as it flew by in the dark, but just missed it and could only watch as it rolled several hundred feet down the hill!  Anyways it was still there when we got back.
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puzzlr
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puzzlr
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PostTue May 26, 2009 7:57 pm 
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Lucky kids
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Sadie's Driver
Sadie's Driver



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Sadie's Driver
Sadie's Driver
PostTue May 26, 2009 8:13 pm 
The Big Baker
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up.gif  up.gif  up.gif  up.gif  agree.gif  Truly awesome!  Those boys will thank you for the skills and lessons you are teaching them.  Will you adopt me?  embarassedlaugh.gif   We were waving at you from Excelsior!   wave.gif  rocker.gif   s.d.

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Four-paw buddy lets me tag along!
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the Zachster
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PostTue May 26, 2009 9:00 pm 
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What a GREAT family outing! Thanks for the great report and photos! I was up there about 10 years ago and didn't take the time to  get photos (pre-digital days...it was more cumbersome...). Your shots are exactly how I remember it...thanks! agree.gif

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"May I always be the kind of person my dog thinks I am"
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Ingunn
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Ingunn
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PostTue May 26, 2009 9:23 pm 
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Your boys are so lucky, what amazing experiences to grow up with! up.gif  up.gif

Can you adopt me? hockeygrin.gif
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Matt
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Matt
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PostTue May 26, 2009 9:41 pm 
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I hope your kids, and you also, are enjoying this as much as it looks like you do.  What terrific family experiences.
Nice job of getting photos in camp and along the way also.
The "snow sliding fun" photo looks like you pasted the kid onto the side of the snow bank.

Bummer about the younger boy's boots, but it seems like you all had a great time anyway.

I know what you mean about boys digging with the shovels.  My son wasn't much into hiking, but when we stayed at the Mountaineers lodges in winters, he'd spend hours on end digging structures in the snow.

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“As beacons mountains burned at evening.” J.R.R. Tolkien
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Roald
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PostTue May 26, 2009 9:54 pm 
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Awesome!  Congrats to kids, and parents!  The only bummer part in the story was the bit about the snowmobiler.  But even they can't spoil a terrific story, and outing.
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Yana
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Yana
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PostTue May 26, 2009 10:24 pm 
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Your family outings are amazing.  up.gif  up.gif

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PLAY SAFE! SKI ONLY IN CLOCKWISE DIRECTION! LET'S ALL HAVE FUN TOGETHER!
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Forum Index > Trip Reports > Mount Baker, Easton Glacier 5/23 to 5/25/09
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