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Quest for Adrenaline
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PostWed May 27, 2009 6:28 pm 
Trip: Wedge Mountain, British Columbia - North Arete Date: 5/24/2009 Trip Report: It was Friday the 22nd and my climbing partner Ryan and I headed out from bellingham around 11am - we got to the wedgemount lake trailhead around 2-3pm, packed up, stretch our legs, and leisurely got ready for the steep hike up to the lake. We left the car around 4pm and made our way up the trail to the wedgemount lake hut at just after sunset. When we got there, there was no one else there but just a few day-hikers leaving the area. However we did expect more people to show up in the morning since it was going to be an excellent weekend. It was a sluggish hike without snowshoes all the way up to the lake at around 6000 feet. It made for a tiring hike in during the melting evening snow which we stepped up into our knees and waists in... We went to bed in the hut (it's a very nice place to set base in!) and woke up to a few hikers coming on into the lake. During the day, we waited around and greeted hikers and a few climbers who were on their way up. We were waiting for early morning to start our climb since everything would be frozen over then... That day, we hung out and drank water from the frozen-over (but quickly melting) lake to stay hydrated and prepare for our early trip up the mountain in the morning. By the end of the night, we decided that we were going to head up with 2 other climbers who knew the area better than we did, so we were up around 12:30-1am to get our gear on and head up the peak. At this time, 2 other climbers had left (making there be a total of 6 climbers who were climbing the same route we were) - We left camp around 1:30-2am and headed towards the end of the lake and up the glacier. Towards the base of the glacier, we roped up and followed each other up the mountain... Made our way over a few snowbridges and up a steep "gully" around 55 degrees of angle (or so) and traversed through a small snow patch over to another steep face where we made our way up to the North Arete/Ridge. By this time, the sun was out and shining down and lit up the mountains for miles. It was absolutely gorgeous. After taking a short break to catch our break and drink a bit of water, we then headed up the very-exposed and steep North Arete and followed it all of the way to the summit. By the time we were at the end of the Arete, the snow was getting really "melty" and began to melt at a much quicker rate. We made it at a perfect time as we were able to travel the North Arete when it wasn't in the heat of the day. We got to the false summit and set our gear down then walked on up about 100 meters to the true summit. After taking about a 15 minute break and some great pictures at the summit, we headed down the back side of the mountain through the hard-snow covered face and down/around the mountain. It was really hot out and we were suffering from the heat. Luckily, we made it to the lake without serious injury but I must say that I was really dehydrated and got blasted by the heat of the sun! It was a great trip and full of good times and hard work! Gear Notes: Basic glacier travel gear. Could have used pickets but we got up just fine without them. Approach Notes: Wedgemount Lake Hut
hockeygrin.gif hockeygrin.gif smile.gif smile.gif

Khartoum
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ryancanfield
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PostWed May 27, 2009 6:30 pm 
that was a fun trip up.gif

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Quest for Adrenaline
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PostWed May 27, 2009 6:35 pm 
the exposure was insane it gets the blood pumping.rock on!

Khartoum
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ryancanfield
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PostWed May 27, 2009 6:38 pm 
forgot this one

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Malachai Constant
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Malachai Constant
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PostWed May 27, 2009 6:41 pm 
Thanks plan on heading up in a couple weeks up.gif

"You do not laugh when you look at the mountains, or when you look at the sea." Lafcadio Hearn
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Go Jo
of the lykkens



Joined: 08 Jun 2003
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of the lykkens
PostWed May 27, 2009 6:42 pm 
Wow, pretty outrageous climb! Great effort, wonderful photos ~Jo

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Layback
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PostWed May 27, 2009 6:43 pm 
Awesome guys. Thanks for the detailed route info and beta. How was the hut? Great photos as always. up.gif

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ryancanfield
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PostWed May 27, 2009 6:44 pm 
Layback wrote:
Awesome guys. Thanks for the detailed route info and beta. How was the hut? Great photos as always. up.gif
the hut is incredble.. very warm and it's actually a loft so you can sleep upstairs where the heat rises to, and it's insulated!

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puzzlr
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puzzlr
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PostWed May 27, 2009 11:50 pm 
Quite a spectacular route.

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ryancanfield
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PostFri May 29, 2009 9:18 am 
puzzlr wrote:
Quite a spectacular route.
that it was. a classic

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Davidą
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Davidą
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PostFri May 29, 2009 9:52 am 
Nice to see these cross border reports. up.gif You need to go back once the lake is melted out - it is one of the most spectacular alpine lakes I have ever seen.

Warning! Posts may contain traces of sarcasm. Hiking Website: http://members.shaw.ca/karenanddavid/Index.htm
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ryancanfield
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PostSat May 30, 2009 10:15 am 
Davidą wrote:
Nice to see these cross border reports. up.gif You need to go back once the lake is melted out - it is one of the most spectacular alpine lakes I have ever seen.
yeah i would love to see this place in august or september! thanks

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cheakamus
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PostSat May 30, 2009 7:56 pm 
hey, great pics. i can even see my old house in one of them! i used to sleep on the veranda in summer when i was a kid and the first thing I saw when i opened my eyes was wedge. always wanted to get up there, but never (so far) succeeded. congratulations!

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ryancanfield
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PostMon Jun 01, 2009 10:42 am 
cheakamus wrote:
hey, great pics. i can even see my old house in one of them! i used to sleep on the veranda in summer when i was a kid and the first thing I saw when i opened my eyes was wedge. always wanted to get up there, but never (so far) succeeded. congratulations!
cool cool! thanks!

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