Forum Index > Trip Reports > S. Ingalls and Fortune Peaks 6-16-09
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Bryan K
Shameless Peakbagger



Joined: 29 Sep 2005
Posts: 5129 | TRs | Pics
Location: Alaska
Bryan K
Shameless Peakbagger
PostWed Jun 17, 2009 7:07 pm 
Full set of pictures HERE. While I spent Sunday night and Monday at Red Top LO, Dane came up with a few ideas for us for Tuesday’s hike. One idea was Fortune Peak with a possible side trip to S. Ingalls. We decided that would be a great trip and on Tuesday morning I picked him up at 6:15. By 8:30 we were at the TH putting our boots on and getting ready for the journey ahead
Check out Dane's new hat!!!
Check out Dane's new hat!!!
At the TH and ready to go
At the TH and ready to go
We opted to make a loop out of it and took a right at the Longs Pass junction shortly after the trail started. After a bit of time we encountered some snow but we were able to stay mostly on track with the buried trail. Somewhere we lost the next junction but we knew that we were doing alright and were heading north towards Ingalls Pass. By 11:00 I think it was we were at Ingalls Pass with Stuart staring us in the face.
Dane's ready for the sun and snow
Dane's ready for the sun and snow
Looking down the Ingalls Creek basin
Looking down the Ingalls Creek basin
Down below we saw an empty camp with 3 tents sitting on a dry slab of rock. Not being too certain of the snow conditions we sported our crampons and axes and descended into the basin. We did try to stay high and traverse our way around to a route we spied up to S. Ingalls.
View from Ingalls Pass
View from Ingalls Pass
We decided on a south slope ascent rather than increase our distance and hike the saddle between the two Ingalls summits. We passed two other day hikers who had already made the summit and they told us that the snow for the most part was fairly soft. We decided to keep our crampons on and headed up towards the summit. With axes at the ready we started up the steep slope to the ridgeline. The higher we got the steeper the slope became. Self belay found itself to be rather helpful a few times for us as the snow consistency changed. Finally we made the ridge and we were staring at the southern approach to S. Ingalls.
A look back up to theour route down from the summit. We came down the slot to the right of the big rock on the left
A look back up to theour route down from the summit. We came down the slot to the right of the big rock on the left
We dropped our packs, grabbed Clif bars and our cameras and we set off for the summit. The first part of the ascent was rather easy as it was just on some loose rocks and talus. Within short time we were at the base of the massive summit block. With Dane helping to eye the route I headed up the scrambly rocks and took my time and had a good time. Now, I’m not a big fan of exposure or crazy scrambling routes, but I found this first section to be pretty good. I got up to a decent spot to stop and Dane quickly joined me. We continued in this manner all the way to the summit where the views were spectacular!!! Oh yeah, I checked the route from the north and it was significantly easier, or so it looked. We took in the views of Stuart and the other peaks in the area, had our small snack and snapped some photos.
S Ingalls Summit shot
S Ingalls Summit shot
Dane with the Teanaway beyond
Dane with the Teanaway beyond
Me and Lake Ingalls
Me and Lake Ingalls
I was a bit nervous about our descent as it’s always easier to go up than down. This time Dane would lead and help me from below. I spied a slot route just below the summit that we decided would be better than our route up so he started downward. With the exception of one tricky spot, this route was pretty good and enjoyable. We rejoined our packs and eyed a route to Fortune just below the ridgeline. Dane led the way as we crossed a snowfield heading towards some rock.
Traversing the steep snowfield to Fortune Peak
Traversing the steep snowfield to Fortune Peak
I felt more comfortable on the snow rather than the rock, but I followed Dane’s lead. This route was not as straightforward as Ingalls was, and it was a bit trickier too. As we pressed onward we were in constant contact and he was checking to see how I was doing and how my comfort level was at. I could have turned around at any point I knew, but I wanted to push myself and my limits a bit, but not too much, the punishment for to much risk was too great. There was one spot that made me want to chuck my pack down the mountain due to its cozy nature as I had to half crawl under a rock. At that point I knew that turning around would not be an option and that if I had to bail it would be straight down towards the snowfield. *Note to self, smaller and lighter pack for this kind of stuff in the future* After a few nerve wracking moments we were done with this section and we got back onto the ridge and made it to the summit of Fortune. I couldn’t believe our route here and how short it looked but how long it felt.
A look back along the ridge to S Ingalls
A look back along the ridge to S Ingalls
We snacked and snapped more photos and just relaxed for a bit. Dane almost fell asleep and I just chilled.
Us, summit cairn, Fortune and friend Stuart beyond
Us, summit cairn, Fortune and friend Stuart beyond
We had considered descending the west ridge but decided to head down the south ridge instead. The first section was easy through some short trees and talus /scree. We found ourselves on the ridge with an awesome looking glissade below us. Dane headed down first and got a fairly long run in. With his camera rolling I headed down next. Wow!!! That was a fast run down. The first section of 5 feet was steep and the rest was steep too, but not quite as much. I joined Dane in the run out and he asked how long I thought it would take us to hike back up for another run!!!!! We were exhausted!!! WTF Dane???? We did head back up and this time I went down first. I got to my pack and took some photos as Dane headed down. With his camera in one hand he was all over the place, it was funny to watch!!!
A bit chilled we continued our hike down and found a talus/scree slope to take down to the trail in the Esmeralda Basin. Quickly the route got a bit hairy as avalanches had ripped the slope apart. Cliffs sprang up and we’d have to quickly change course.
Looking back up the avalanche slope below Fortune. Can you find Dane in this shot?
Looking back up the avalanche slope below Fortune. Can you find Dane in this shot?
Finally we made it to the trail where we took a break and begged for the car to appear. With fatigue setting in we lumbered down the last 2 miles of trail and 900’ of elevation descent until we saw the happy sight of the parking lot and my car. 8.5 hours and almost 4000’ of gain later we had two awesome summits under our belts and a 2 hour drive back to Seattle. Dane snored half the way back home and I tried to drown out the noise with my stereo. What a great day to push myself and tag a couple great summits with a friend. Thanks for your patience Dane, I appreciate it up.gif How could I forget, I have a summit ritual now too, mucho flatus!!!!!
Deer seen on the road on our way out
Deer seen on the road on our way out

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Magellan
Brutally Handsome



Joined: 26 Jul 2006
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Magellan
Brutally Handsome
PostWed Jun 17, 2009 9:52 pm 
Great stuff Bryan! up.gif I missed the traverse to S. Ingalls due to total fog out when I was up there. The picture of you two with Stuart behind is great. Dane always looks like he belongs in the mountains.

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Dane
Other



Joined: 14 Mar 2006
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Location: Seattle
Dane
Other
PostThu Jun 18, 2009 3:37 am 
What a fun trip! I was not expecting so much difficulty traversing to Fortune, though. From Ingalls it looked like we had three options; dropping low back into Headlight Basin, traversing the rocks and scree of the ridgeline, or traversing across snowfields just below the ridge. We didn't want to lose all the hard earned elevation, and just below the ridge the snow was very steep and in places it was right above cliffs, so it looked like sticking to the crest would offer the best combination of safety and efficiency. Wrong frown.gif It's entirely possible to follow the ridgeline the whole way, but we found it to be slow and requiring increased caution, and it wasn't even fun like the scramble up S. Ingalls. The speedy glissade on the way to the car made up for it. After 4000' gain with no sleep the night before you better believe I was snoring on the way home zzz.gif
melting out
melting out
Bryan approaching S. Ingalls
Bryan approaching S. Ingalls
a little closer
a little closer
starting up
starting up
getting steeper
getting steeper
Bryan, Ingalls, Stuart
Bryan, Ingalls, Stuart
traversing to Fortune
traversing to Fortune
looking back to S. Ingalls
looking back to S. Ingalls
kicking steps
kicking steps

Without judgement what would we do? We would be forced to look at ourselves... -Death
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EastKing
Surfing and Hiking



Joined: 28 Mar 2007
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Location: 77 miles from Seattle!
EastKing
Surfing and Hiking
PostThu Jun 18, 2009 5:08 am 
Good job Bryan and Dane!! Great trip report!!! up.gif up.gif

YouTube | SummitPost Saw the depths of despair. Now I am salvaging what time I have left on Earth.
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Redwic
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Joined: 23 Feb 2009
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Location: Going to the Prom(inence)
Redwic
Unlisted Free Agent
PostThu Jun 18, 2009 5:27 am 
I enjoyed this trip report and really liked the photos!!! Thanks for sharing!!!

60 pounds lighter but not 60 points brighter.
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Gil
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Gil
Member
PostThu Jun 18, 2009 8:38 am 
Nice, you guys! Living vicariously through you.

Friends help the miles go easier. Klahini
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DIYSteve
seeking hygge



Joined: 06 Mar 2007
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Location: here now
DIYSteve
seeking hygge
PostThu Jun 18, 2009 8:38 am 
Sounds like a fun trip. up.gif 8-1/2 hours? Wow, you guys must have done some exploring. biggrin.gif BTW, there is a well-established tread between S Ingalls and Fortune, which runs just W of and below the connecting ridge, but it appears from your pic to be snow-covered. Is that glissade pic of the SE bowl of Fortune (which we skied 12 days ago)? If so, very cool that it's still holding so much snow.

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Bryan K
Shameless Peakbagger



Joined: 29 Sep 2005
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Location: Alaska
Bryan K
Shameless Peakbagger
PostThu Jun 18, 2009 2:44 pm 
BigSteve, that is the bowl that you are thinking of. We couldn't start all the way at the top due to exposed rocks, but we still managed to get a great run in though.

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DIYSteve
seeking hygge



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DIYSteve
seeking hygge
PostThu Jun 18, 2009 2:58 pm 
Right, the top of the bowl was melting out when we (Mtn Man, Chainsaw Willie, et. al.) skied it the weekend before last. It's quite amazing that a SE aspect bowl so far E of the crest holds that much snow into late June and sometimes early July. My theory: (a) the bowl gets big lee dumps; and (b) it's in the shadow of the Esmeralda massif. Note my comments over on Geo Tom's Not Hinkhouse TR thread re the Not Hinkhouse to S Ingalls traverse.

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wildernessed
viewbagger



Joined: 31 Oct 2004
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wildernessed
viewbagger
PostThu Jun 18, 2009 3:19 pm 
up.gif That's a nice spot for some views and sun.

Living in the Anthropocene
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