Wed Jun 24, 2009 2:01 pm Silvertip attempt, 6/23/09
“Ah, but a man's reach should exceed his grasp, or what's a heaven for?” Robert Browning
Just below the summit of Silvertip I reached up and grasped the last hand hold, a solid horn, but couldn't make myself do the move (thinking I might find out what heaven is for when trying to down climb it). I stood there on good foot holds above the void for a few minutes examining every edge and bulge imagining how I'd reverse it. The loose pebbles on top were disconcerting, so I brushed those near the edge out of the way. It looked like typical Becky 4th class - very doable, but super exposed, with no room for error. Fred had advised rappelling this pitch, but I'd left the rope at home figuring I'd back off if it looked sketchy, and now I did, one move from the end of the difficulties.
I wasn't mad, or even frustrated, rather it was another funny lesson that might finally get through my thick skull. I can't seem to get my youthful rock climbing prowess (when soloing down easy 5th class - much less mere 4th - was standard practice) out of my old head, even though lack of recent practice and training leaves me far from those good ole days. I've also finally realized that I'm not special and that s@#$ happens to good folks every day. None of this adds up to the flowing confidence needed to solo exposed rock, so I carefully climbed back down to my ski poles, took a long look around, and descended.
I'd started just before 9 that morning at Barlow Pass riding my mt. bike up the road to Monte Cristo. Getting the bike down onto the big log that spans the river was tricky, similar to that last move, but without fatal consequences.
There are a few little trees down over the road, and a couple rough areas that washed out, but it was well worth bringing the bike for the ride down.
I'd never been up the trail to Poodle Dog Pass and was happily surprised to find it quite moderate for the first half, then a bit rocky and steeper, with snow at the end.
The route up from Silver Lake is obvious, climbing snow slopes to the south ridge which is followed to a shoulder where a long snow traverse is made over to the final rock wall. By the time I got climbing the snow was perfectly softened to provide good step kicking. Ski poles (I had one BD Whipit) worked perfectly (esp. with standing glisades descending), but you'd want an axe and crampons if it was hard.
When I reached the pass I turned for a last view of the peak and was happy to see a beautiful sundog.
The trail down flowed under my boots, then I switched to bike shoes at Monte Cristo and rolled down. Crossing the bridge just out of town I stopped to look at the river and became fascinated by the flowing patterns. After a few pictures I carried on and passed three hikers a ways down, the only other people I saw all day.
Joined: 23 Feb 2009 Posts: 1120 | TRs | Pics Location: Between A Rock And A Hard Place
Wed Jun 24, 2009 2:20 pm
As a big fan of the Everett "Silvertips", this mountain has been way up high on my "to do" list for a while. However, the standard ("obvious") route has always freaked me out a little with that final section. I have a book that contains an alternate route for Silver Tip Peak, which is supposedly only Class III but a slightly longer approach from a different part of the peak. I might give that a try, during late Summer this year.
What kinds of gear did you take getting there at this time of year? How were the snow conditions?
Jeebus, I remember doing this one in highschool many years ago. No gear, no ropes. Going up was easy, the down, a bit tricky. Just me and a friend sweating bullets with that nice exposed drop.
Joined: 06 Mar 2007 Posts: 3269 | TRs | Pics Location: here now
Wed Jun 24, 2009 3:41 pm
Lauds for exercizing good judgment, JD. When we did it in the mid-90's, we roped up for the final pitch and put in a piece or two, and then did a single rope rap to get off the summit block. Along the way, we met Chris, a Polish national, who freed it. He was ready to downclimb it, but we offered to set up a diaper sling so that he could rap.
It's a nice little climb. I've always taken a rope for Beckey class 4. Does that make me a chicken?
Crankin' a 5.11a 2000' off the deck on a bomber cam is nothing compared to soloing a 4th class move at the top of a boulder strewn gulley. Good choice!
-------------- "There can be no greater issue than that of conservation in this country."
Teddy Roosevelt August 6, 1912
Thanks for that, Jim. It's really inspiring to hear stories of folks who almost get there and then think better of it. It's really inspiring. It sets a great example to remember! And the pics are absolutely gorgeous. When did you take the pic of Silvertip from Gothic basin?
Iron, I don't see a rope in those pics so I assume you guys free soloed up and down - good work. If so the helmet is a funny addition, don't think it would help much if you fell
Iron, I don't see a rope in those pics so I assume you guys free soloed up and down - good work. If so the helmet is a funny addition, don't think it would help much if you fell
nope, we rapped down...
-------------- “to give anything less than your best is to sacrifice the gift.” -steve prefontaine
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that's one of my favorite climbs, Jim, and I never tried to downclimb it. The adrenaline must have been pumping there.
