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cartman Member


Joined: 20 Feb 2007 Posts: 2725 | TRs Location: Fremont
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 Pugh, Sloan, Bedal from the summit
How many times in your life do you get to experience something like this?
Brent G. asked me if I'd like to do White Chuck and I immediately said yes. Last time we'd done a trip together we had a great time on North Twin Sister two years ago. Driving the maze of back roads to the start of the NW Ridge was no problem, but with the low clouds we were worried that visibility would be poor up high and the rock on the upper exposed sections would be wet and too dangerous to get to the summit.
We started on the gentle approach ridge in the mist.
 Approach ridge
Then across the scree field below the NW peak.
 White Chuck scree slope
After going up the wet slab and heather slopes to gain the summit ridge I stopped briefly and was joined by the friendliest pika I've ever seen. He actually ran up to within a foot of me, twice. And then followed me for a short distance up the ridge.
 Gaining the summit ridge  Friendly pika  Closer  White Chuck NW Peak
Shortly after gaining the summit ridge to our surprise we climbed above the clouds.
 White Chuck ridge, summit on right  Brent summit ridge break
And were treated to some of the most incredible views I have ever experienced.
 Sloan in the distance  Glacier Peak  Ptarmigan Traverse  NW Peak shrouded in the mist
We continued on the trail on the exposed traverse until we spotted a promising gully to get higher and away from the edge. Scrambling this upper class 3 gully for ~ 100' to the top of the ridge we were shortly at the first crux move, a cannonhole leading to a 8-foot drop. But there is an easy exit left that avoids the drop, and we continued towards the clearly visible summit, and the second crux move, a fairly easy downclimb on a nose just before heading up the summit block.
 Brent on the second crux move
Then we regained the trail up to the summit, and a sea of clouds in every direction, with only the highest summits visible.
 Pugh, Sloan, Bedal from the summit  Glacier Peak from the summit  Dome from the summit  Three Fingers, Whitehorse and Cloud Mtn
We went down the trail instead of the gully. With the loose gravel over slabs on the rocky and very exposed "trail" for a couple of hundred feet, I would choose the gully to come down in the future. This is not a peak for the inexperienced or faint of heart.
I've only experienced climbing above the clouds once or twice before, including my first ever climb and summit, on Baker. We thought as we were going up that we might have been better off waiting until the next day with the better forecast--but we wouldn't have seen this. These mountains continue to surprise, amaze and inspire.
Eric J. Johnson |
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Tazz Member


Joined: 27 Apr 2005 Posts: 7911 | TRs
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i like nw peak shrouded in fog!  |
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DIYSteve mere tourist


Joined: 06 Mar 2007 Posts: 12079 | TRs Location: here now
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Cool, eerie conditions! White Chuck is such a cool scramble. |
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joker seeker


Joined: 12 Aug 2006 Posts: 7220 | TRs Location: state of confusion
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Thanks for sharing. That's indeed a very special condition. A bluebird day has nothing on that sort of day. I was unable to join my buddies for an Oly hike on Monday where they experienced at least somewhat similar conditions. Last time I recall sometnhing similar was coincidentally on the upper slopes of Baker a few years back. Though in late May of this year, on a flight in from London, we were having such a day as we cruised over the Cascades, including a really cool line to the east where the clouds were pushing up against and pouring over eastern ridges. It was one of my favorite passes over the Cascades ever. But not the same as being down it, including the wonderful surprise of popping up out of the clouds. |
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Magellan Brutally Handsome


Joined: 26 Jul 2006 Posts: 13115 | TRs Location: Inexorable descent
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It's pretty sweet when you get those conditions! It can be unexpected as clouds like to hang on peaks, whereas fog stays in the valley. When heading up, it's hard to know if you are in fog or clouds.
Nice picture of Brent on the Class 3 move near the summit. Suck in your belly and hug some rock is the way I remember it. What is the other 'crux'? I remember some sloping gravely ledges, but even if I fell down I don't think I would have peeled off. |
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cartman Member


Joined: 20 Feb 2007 Posts: 2725 | TRs Location: Fremont
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Magellan wrote: |
Nice picture of Brent on the Class 3 move near the summit. Suck in your belly and hug some rock is the way I remember it. What is the other 'crux'? I remember some sloping gravely ledges, but even if I fell down I don't think I would have peeled off. |
You probably avoid the first crux if you come up via the trail. We came up earlier up a gully and crossed over, had to drop through a cannonhole to get to the second crux which leads to the summit. As I stashed my pack right before the cannonhole, I came back that way prior to dropping to the trail for our exit. I prefer the gully for coming down, think it would feel more secure. Downclimbing gravel ledges 30' above a 700-foot drop not so great. |
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Justus S. Member


Joined: 17 Nov 2004 Posts: 1158 | TRs Location: WA
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Nice!!! Glad to hear the road is still ago! That is one of the best trailheads around. I'll have to head up there soon, maybe tomorrow if I can find the time. |
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GeoTom Custom Title


Joined: 19 May 2005 Posts: 3172 | TRs Location: Location
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My views yesterday included the hallway outside my office and the stoplights on the drive home. Not quite as spectacular as yours.
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loper Member


Joined: 11 Aug 2007 Posts: 451 | TRs Location: seeking the sun
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Nice! We had similar conditions on HLP yesterday. Was cool to pop up through the cloud layer!
L |
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lopper off-route


Joined: 22 Jan 2002 Posts: 764 | TRs
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Layback Proud Papa x2


Joined: 16 Mar 2007 Posts: 5577 | TRs Location: On a Bike
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Awesome Eric. Those pics are amazing. BTW, do you work anymore?  |
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