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Don
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PostTue Aug 18, 2009 8:03 am 
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The North Circle is a traditional backpack along the Highline Trail, Stoney Indian Trail and Ptarmigan Tunnel Trail in the heart of the Glacier National Park.  I have been attracted to this trip ever since picking up Will Landen’s book Glacier Panorama.  Most of the photography is from the early 70’s, and is apparent when compared with the print quality of today.  However I have found the book to be motivational, both in the incredible scenery captured and the effort bestowed by Landen to travel the park with such heavy photography equipment (large format panoramic), much of it off-trail.

It’s this book that inspired me to add a twist to the traditional route of this trip.  Rather than descend 3,000’ from Fifty Mountain to Goat Haunt only to climb 3,000’ back up to Stoney Indian Pass, I elected to do a direct cross-country route between the two, connecting Fifty Mountain with Stoney Indian via Sue Lake.  This involved climbing over the shoulder of Mt. Kipp and descending the Chaney Glacier to Sue Lake, then descending north to intercept the Stoney Indian Trail.

I met Greg last year on a climb of Bonanza Peak in the North Cascades.  We really hit it off on that trip and I thought he would be a prime candidate to put up with me for a week in the backcountry.  He accepted my challenge…er, invite.

Day 1 - Logan Pass to Granite Park

Deer near Logan Pass
Deer near Logan Pass

The day started off on an amazing note while filling water containers at the visitor center.  The first people I chatted with, a father and son, were from Washington.  Renton, Washington.  The Fairwood area of Renton, Washington.  The neighboring development to mine in the Fairwood area of Renton, Washington.  Oh heck, I could probably throw a rock into their yard from my house!  What are the odds?

The Garden Wall Trail is an excellent way to start any trip.  You leave the busy parking lot of Logan Pass and descend the trail thru meadows to the portion of the trail that has been blasted from the rock.  The challenge of the meadows is in navigating your way around goats and rams, and tourists seeking pictures of said goats and rams - all the while fielding one-liners about your large daypack.  Oh, boy.

The Garden Wall Trail is pretty cool if you like views and exposure.  There is a hand line installed for those not so thrilled about it.

Hikers along the Garden Wall Trail
Hikers along the Garden Wall Trail

Flowers were out in force.  Meadows sandwiched the rock portion of the trail and proved very distracting (like the rock portion wasn’t!).  Soon we could see the chalet in the distance and new it marked our destination for the evening.  Or did it?  Upon reaching this historic building atop a knoll with spectacular 360 degree views all around, we learned that our camp was located a mile further along a spur trail, down in the trees with limited views.  From our tent pad, we could peer up thru the tree branches to see guests at the chalet out on the balcony soaking up the evening sunset, laughing and joking amongst one another.  We felt so insignificant.  Nicklesville jokes were numerous the remainder of the evening.

However, the meadows made it all worth while.

Flowers and The Garden Wall
Flowers and The Garden Wall
Flowers and The Garden Wall
Flowers and The Garden Wall
Flowers and The Garden Wall
Flowers and The Garden Wall
Flowers in Granite Park
Flowers in Granite Park
Flowers and The Garden Wall
Flowers and The Garden Wall
Flowers in Granite Park
Flowers in Granite Park
Flowers in Granite Park
Flowers in Granite Park

Day 2 – Granite Park to Fifty Mountain

This was probably my favorite section of trail on our trip.  The Highline Trail traverses open slopes with incredible beauty.  The country appears so big along this stretch because you can see so far.  It also traverses part of a very large burn area from a recent fire.

Hiking the Highline Trail
Hiking the Highline Trail
Hiking the Highline Trail
Hiking the Highline Trail
Hiker at Ahern Creek
Hiker at Ahern Creek

This was also our longest mileage day on trail – 12 miles with 2,000’ gain at the very end (not counting a side trip to Ahern Pass).

Ahern Lake
Ahern Lake

Our feet were sore upon arriving at Fifty Mountain.  Ah, but the meadows…

Meadows below Mt. Kipp
Meadows below Mt. Kipp
Meadows Below Mt. Kipp
Meadows Below Mt. Kipp

We heard stories about the aggressive deer here from those that preceded us.  The deer had actually been seen removing items from inside of tents that had been left open.  We were careful not to leave any gear unattended, but were still prone to middle-of-the-night snack attacks on Greg’s hanging pack and ski poles.  Slurp…slurp…slurp….

That evening clouds began rolling up the valley from the west and spilling over Mt. Kipp.  Soon we were engulfed.  The clouds would move in and out, but mostly in.  We knew the weather was supposed to begin deteriorating.

Sunset over Livingston Range
Sunset over Livingston Range

Day 3 – Fifty Mountain to Sue Lake

Livingston Range
Livingston Range

The morning proved rather exciting for me.  After returning to the tent after some morning photography up in the meadows, I debated throwing my zoom and tele on the camera and taking it down to the food area in case our resident deer showed back up.  But I convinced myself it wasn’t worth the hassle.  So of course, I was half way between the food prep area and the food locker when the grizzly bear appeared only 150’ or so away.  Sometimes I am so proud of my decision making ability.

Weather began deteriorating fast.  We left camp in limited visibility and headed back up to the pass below Mt. Kipp.  We crossed over and descended the trail several hundred feet to skirt some cliffs looming above.  Soon, we found a route up that looked like it would go.  Visibility grew worse.  Much of the time we could only see about 50’.  It was usually about this time that our route would cliff out.

Eventually we made it to the notch in the ridge via a precarious traverse on class 3 and 4 rock, and we could see the Chaney Glacier below us.  We couldn’t see down the glacier at all to know what was in store for us, but we could see the glacier.  Life was good!

Greg on Chaney Glacier
Greg on Chaney Glacier
Greg below Chaney Glacier
Greg below Chaney Glacier
Greg below Chaney Glacier 2
Greg below Chaney Glacier 2

The glacier presented no problems and soon we found ourselves down on the moraine and traversing about a mile cross-country to Sue Lake.  Sue Lake Bench was impressive.

We set camp in extremely limited visibility and went to work preparing dinner.  It had been a long day, not arriving at camp until nearly 8:00.  We were tired.  Our resident deer behaved herself for the most part.

Rain was forecast for the following day.  I went to bed disappointed that we wouldn’t get to fully enjoy Sue Lake.  At least we could say we had been there, and knew it was worth returning to.


Day 4 – Sue Lake to Stoney Indian Lake

I awoke to clear skies!  The peaks towering above Sue Lake were an incredible sight to see!  I jumped out of the tent and ran around like a kid in a toy store.  Funny how things work out sometimes.

Cathedral Peak
Cathedral Peak
.
.
Cathedral Peak Reflection
Cathedral Peak Reflection
Sue Lake
Sue Lake
Sue Lake Reflection
Sue Lake Reflection
Sue Lake
Sue Lake
Sue Lake Reflection
Sue Lake Reflection
Cathedral Peak
Cathedral Peak

Soon clouds began rolling in and blanketed us.  Then they moved out again.  Down in the valley they stayed.  It was particularly interesting to watch them spill over Stoney Indian Pass across the valley – our route to Stoney Indian Lake.

Wahcheechee Peak
Wahcheechee Peak
Wahcheechee Peak
Wahcheechee Peak
Stony Indian Pass
Stony Indian Pass
Sue Lake
Sue Lake

After drying out gear out, we packed up and headed out.  Our route took us down a long grass ramp, descending 1,000’ or so to the valley below.  Blue skies prevailed above us.  It was a truly beautiful day.

We intercepted the Stoney Indian Trail and made our way up to the pass.  The lake on the other side looked gorgeous.

Hiker
Hiker
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A steep descent brought us to the waters of Stoney Indian Lake, and soon the campground at the foot of its waters.  Another resident deer greeted us.  This rascal would succeed in running off with my camera harness (twice) and Greg’s ski pole before our visit was over.  She was very aggressive.

It rained hard on us that night.


Day 5 – Stoney Indian Pass to Mokowanis Lake

We awoke to cloudy skies and thick fog.  Coffee, breakfast and socializing with other guests proved the enjoyment of the morning.  At one point, the clouds rolled out long enough for some brief photography.  It lasted for about 20 minutes.

Stoney Indian Lake
Stoney Indian Lake
Stoney Indian Lake
Stoney Indian Lake
Stoney Indian Lake
Stoney Indian Lake
Stoney Indian Lake
Stoney Indian Lake
Stoney Indian Lake
Stoney Indian Lake
Stoney Indian Lake
Stoney Indian Lake

We packed up and hiked back over Stoney Indian Pass.  Blue skies began to appear while descending the other side along the Mokowanis River.  The descent was steep in sections shortly before Atsina Lake and again before Glenn Lake.  There were some beautiful waterfalls along this section of trail.

Hiker on Bridge
Hiker on Bridge
Hiker on Bridge
Hiker on Bridge
Hiker on Bridge
Hiker on Bridge
Hiker on Bridge
Hiker on Bridge
Hiker on Bridge
Hiker on Bridge

We reached the Mokowanis cut-off trail and followed it a mile to camp.  Mokowanis Lake is beautiful.  It even has its resident deer.  She wasn’t afraid of anyone.  Lucky us.

Deer
Deer
Deer
Deer

That evening a system rolled in again and rained on us.


Day 6 – Mokowanis Lake to Elizabeth Lake

We awoke to questionable skies and expected to get rained on.  Though the sky grew black above us near Cosley Lake, the precip never came.

This section of trail along the Mokowanis River was in stark contrast to everything we had seen up to now.  Gone were the cliffs and tall peaks, replaced with prairies.  Strangely, it was a rather nice treat for the senses.

We forded the Mokowanis River and followed the Ptarmigan Tunnel Trail up towards Elizabeth Lake, stopping for a short visit of Dawn Mist Falls.

Fording the Mokowanis
Fording the Mokowanis
Fording the Mokowanis
Fording the Mokowanis
Dawn Mist Falls
Dawn Mist Falls
Dawn Mist Falls
Dawn Mist Falls
To purchase prints or license images, please contact <a href="mailto:dongeyer@mountainscenes.com">dongeyer@mountainscenes.com</a> All Images copyright: Don Geyer Visit <a href="http://www.mountainscenes.com" target="_blank">www.mountainscenes.com</a>
To purchase prints or license images, please contact dongeyer@mountainscenes.com All Images copyright: Don Geyer Visit www.mountainscenes.com
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Elizabeth Lake is very beautiful, with Ptarmigan Wall forming a backdrop at its head.  It also has its resident deer.  Of course, you probably figured that one out by now.

To purchase prints or license images, please contact <a href="mailto:dongeyer@mountainscenes.com">dongeyer@mountainscenes.com</a> All Images copyright: Don Geyer Visit <a href="http://www.mountainscenes.com" target="_blank">www.mountainscenes.com</a>
To purchase prints or license images, please contact dongeyer@mountainscenes.com All Images copyright: Don Geyer Visit www.mountainscenes.com
To purchase prints or license images, please contact <a href="mailto:dongeyer@mountainscenes.com">dongeyer@mountainscenes.com</a> All Images copyright: Don Geyer Visit <a href="http://www.mountainscenes.com" target="_blank">www.mountainscenes.com</a>
To purchase prints or license images, please contact dongeyer@mountainscenes.com All Images copyright: Don Geyer Visit www.mountainscenes.com
Elizabeth Lake Reflection
Elizabeth Lake Reflection
To purchase prints or license images, please contact <a href="mailto:dongeyer@mountainscenes.com">dongeyer@mountainscenes.com</a> All Images copyright: Don Geyer Visit <a href="http://www.mountainscenes.com" target="_blank">www.mountainscenes.com</a>
To purchase prints or license images, please contact dongeyer@mountainscenes.com All Images copyright: Don Geyer Visit www.mountainscenes.com
To purchase prints or license images, please contact <a href="mailto:dongeyer@mountainscenes.com">dongeyer@mountainscenes.com</a> All Images copyright: Don Geyer Visit <a href="http://www.mountainscenes.com" target="_blank">www.mountainscenes.com</a>
To purchase prints or license images, please contact dongeyer@mountainscenes.com All Images copyright: Don Geyer Visit www.mountainscenes.com

Day 7 – Elizabeth Lake to Many Glacier

The Ptarmigan Tunnel is a fun hike.  The trail has been blasted out of the rock in its upper stretches, and crosses thru Ptarmigan Wall via ~ 75’ tunnel.

To purchase prints or license images, please contact <a href="mailto:dongeyer@mountainscenes.com">dongeyer@mountainscenes.com</a> All Images copyright: Don Geyer Visit <a href="http://www.mountainscenes.com" target="_blank">www.mountainscenes.com</a>
To purchase prints or license images, please contact dongeyer@mountainscenes.com All Images copyright: Don Geyer Visit www.mountainscenes.com
To purchase prints or license images, please contact <a href="mailto:dongeyer@mountainscenes.com">dongeyer@mountainscenes.com</a> All Images copyright: Don Geyer Visit <a href="http://www.mountainscenes.com" target="_blank">www.mountainscenes.com</a>
To purchase prints or license images, please contact dongeyer@mountainscenes.com All Images copyright: Don Geyer Visit www.mountainscenes.com
To purchase prints or license images, please contact <a href="mailto:dongeyer@mountainscenes.com">dongeyer@mountainscenes.com</a> All Images copyright: Don Geyer Visit <a href="http://www.mountainscenes.com" target="_blank">www.mountainscenes.com</a>
To purchase prints or license images, please contact dongeyer@mountainscenes.com All Images copyright: Don Geyer Visit www.mountainscenes.com
To purchase prints or license images, please contact <a href="mailto:dongeyer@mountainscenes.com">dongeyer@mountainscenes.com</a> All Images copyright: Don Geyer Visit <a href="http://www.mountainscenes.com" target="_blank">www.mountainscenes.com</a>
To purchase prints or license images, please contact dongeyer@mountainscenes.com All Images copyright: Don Geyer Visit www.mountainscenes.com

On the other side the trail switchbacks down to gentle meadows near Ptarmigan Lake below.

Our hike out amidst the crowds of tourists was long and uneventful.  Did I mention how long it felt?

Upon reaching the Many Glacier Hotel our plan was to catch the shuttle service back to Greg’s truck at Logan Pass.  The first shuttle was still a few hours away and we were anxious to get headed home.  Our thumbs came out of our pockets and soon we were riding in the back of a pickup truck, stopping only for bear sightings.  What an excellent ending to a great adventure - unless you count the flat tire that awaited us back at Logan Pass.  hockeygrin.gif

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trailjunky
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PostTue Aug 18, 2009 8:11 am 
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Sweet trip Don, I love Glacier.  We tried for a couple of years to get permits and didn't even get our first or second choice itnerarys.  I have pretty much given up on trying to get into the backcountry over there.  Did you mail in a request for permit or walk in?
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Don
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PostTue Aug 18, 2009 8:23 am 
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trailjunky wrote:
Sweet trip Don, I love Glacier.  We tried for a couple of years to get permits and didn't even get our first or second choice itnerarys.  I have pretty much given up on trying to get into the backcountry over there.  Did you mail in a request for permit or walk in?

I guess I should have left that part of the story in.  I can certainly relate with your experience.

I have always mailed my applications in the day they begin accepting them (April).  Despite including a two month window and flexibility on campsites and direction of travel, my application was turned down two separate years.  This year I got the exact dates I submitted with no itinerary changes.  Strange.  I was applicant 194 (learned while picking up my permit).  Luck of the draw I guess.

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PostTue Aug 18, 2009 8:35 am 
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These photos are obviously fake.  I've been to Glacier National Park a few times and it doesn't have a blue sky.  Even the postcards from there don't look this good.

Nice try though  clown.gif

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jeremybe
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PostTue Aug 18, 2009 8:37 am 
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stun.gif  stun.gif  up.gif  up.gif

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PostTue Aug 18, 2009 8:44 am 
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Very nice Don.

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PostTue Aug 18, 2009 11:36 am 
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beautiful story don. makes me want to pack up and go right now.  up.gif
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Karen˛
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PostTue Aug 18, 2009 11:47 am 
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Spectacular photos Don, these are absolutely stunning.  The wildflower show is amazing...but no mention of bugs, only gear eating deer???  Did you have any issues with bugs with all those flowers?
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PostTue Aug 18, 2009 11:48 am 
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Davidą wrote:
These photos are obviously fake.  I've been to Glacier National Park a few times and it doesn't have a blue sky.  Even the postcards from there don't look this good.

Nice try though  clown.gif

rotf.gif

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PostTue Aug 18, 2009 11:57 am 
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Karen˛ wrote:
Spectacular photos Don, these are absolutely stunning.  The wildflower show is amazing...but no mention of bugs, only gear eating deer???  Did you have any issues with bugs with all those flowers?

Thank you Karen.  Bugs were average.  They seemed more prevelant west of the crest (where the flowers were) as I had to use deet our first couple of nights.  I don't remember using any after that.

The salt-starved deer were the real headache.  I've never witnessed such bold deer.

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Conrad
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PostTue Aug 18, 2009 12:36 pm 
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iron wrote:
makes me want to pack up and go right now.

Here's the funny thing for me. On the one hand, the place looks stunning. On the other, the facts you (Don) report about backcountry crowding have pretty much decided me to skip it. I think I'd rather experience Glacier via day-hikes (as I already have). And via your stunning pictures!
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GaliWalker
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PostTue Aug 18, 2009 12:43 pm 
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Are you kidding me? What gorgeous photos. up.gif

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PostTue Aug 18, 2009 1:05 pm 
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Absolutely spectacular. up.gif
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Don
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PostTue Aug 18, 2009 1:06 pm 
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Conrad wrote:
iron wrote:
makes me want to pack up and go right now.

Here's the funny thing for me. On the one hand, the place looks stunning. On the other, the facts you (Don) report about backcountry crowding have pretty much decided me to skip it. I think I'd rather experience Glacier via day-hikes (as I already have). And via your stunning pictures!

Conrad, I'm not sure how I've conveyed backcountry crowding (permit difficulty perhaps?).  Crowds were experienced along the Garden Wall (first couple of miles) and the Many Glacier side of the Ptarmigan Tunnel.  The rest had no crowding at all.

During our stay:

Granite Park - 4 campsites, 3 occupied.
Fifty Mountain - 6 campsites, 5 occupied.
Sue Lake - only one backcountry permit issued, so we had it to ourselves.
Stoney Indian Lake - 4 campsites, 3 occupied.
Mokowanis Lake - 2 campsites, ours only one occupied.
Elizabeth Lake - 5 campsites, all occupied.

Permits are difficult to come by because so few are issued (half) in advance.

I hope that clarifies any misunderstandings.    Though there are a lot of fun dayhikes to do in Glacier, I highly encourage you to get into the backcountry.

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Conrad
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PostTue Aug 18, 2009 2:20 pm 
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Don wrote:
Conrad, I'm not sure how I've conveyed backcountry crowding (permit difficulty perhaps?).

Permit difficulty, plus the deer being so addicted to human salt, was what I called "crowding", i.e. "negative factors due to so many people wanting to go there". Your occupancy stats just reinforce my opinion; relative to my usual experience, those are extremely crowded campgrounds.

But I'm very glad you went and took pictures!

I'm thinking of checking out the Wildernesses S of Glacier: Bob Marshall etc.
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