[Slugman]

I left Lynnwood at 8:20 pm Saturday, just made the 8:40 ferry out of Edmonds, and drove to the (old) trailhead for the Gray Wolf river, and slept in the back of the car. I was up at 6:30, and at the WIC in Port Angeles when they opened at 7:30 am Sunday. The lovely Ranger Barb got my permit issued in minutes, provided my free bear canister, and sent me on my way with encouraging words and a great smile. If only I were 20 years younger, single and attractive to women. I had some luck both good and bad on the way to the Sol Duc trail head. Good: another "no fee" weekend. Bad: I bit my tongue so bad it bled for over nine hours, and I don't mean a trickle. The word "gushing" comes to mind. The whole time I'm hiking I either had to constantly swallow blood, or spit it out, both of which caused problems. I eventually had to call it quits on hiking Sunday, so I could just sit and apply pressure to the tongue tip. Luckily by this time I was at Deer lake, half way to Lunch lake (in 7 lakes basin) both in mileage and in elevation gain, so it didn't ruin the whole trip, just that one day. When I finally got the bleeding stopped after two hours of continuous pressure, I felt like the beneficiary of a miracle. On Monday I knew I had my work cut out if I was going to salvage the weekend. I broke camp and skedaddled up the trail to High Divide, feeling very strong. The Potholes are pretty nice, and once up on the ridge things just got better and better. The meadows! The views! The bugs! Oh well, nothing's perfect. When I got to the first view of Lunch lake, it was breathtaking. Wow. I dropped down (and down and down) to the lake, and nabbed a primo spot. #11, overlooking Clear lake and the Sol Duc valley, also giving me some privacy from the other sites and great breezes. I set up camp, made dinner, etc, then took off on the day hike I was supposed to do if I had arrived Sunday as planned, but starting at 5 pm instead of in the morning. I headed east along a way trail that cuts through the basin and meets up with the High Divide trail just before Silver Snag. What an awesome trail. I saw things that almost made me cry, they were so beautiful, and I came so close to missing out on them. I went by three sizable lakes, not shown at all on my topo map, not even a hint, but that just made them even more special. I did some off-trail rambling, and saw numerous tarns, reflecting the surroundings as perfectly as any mirror, and another lake nestled along the back side of Bogachiel peak. I did more off-trail, simply because the trail was hard to follow through some rocky sections, but I re-found the trail soon each time. Another thing I didn't see on this trail: any other people. Bonus! At Silver Snag I re-united with a group of four backpackers who I had met earlier, and they welcomed me to explore the site and its views, and they expressed shared relief that my bleeding had finally stopped. I continued on east for another mile or so, but turned back before my goal of seeing down into Sol Duc basin and Heart lake. I guess I'll just have to go back someday to finish the job. One thing I did see was the exceptional view of Mt Olympus which is to be had from there. Seeing the Hoh river basin, all the way up to Blue Glacier, was a treat, and gives perspective on how long that trail really is. I stayed up on the divide to watch an incredible sunset, and then headed back. The way trail was a challenge. The first part is very steeply down, dangerously so in the gloaming. But I had just enough light to make it. The next part was harder: following a trail in the dark that I had problems following in the daylight. I left the headlamp off, since once you turn it on, you are its slave. The white-ish rocks reflected the last of the sunset, so tripping wasn't an issue, but following the trail was, and of course at the same rocky areas. I got a bit confused at one point, but I knew I wasn't lost, because I could see ahead a lake-let that the trail skirted, but I didn't want to off-trail it to the lake in the dark, but by casting around I found the trail right where it was supposed to be. I reached my campsite at 10 pm, without using the headlamp. Tuesday it was the long haul out, 8 miles, about a thousand feet of climbing (including ups and downs), and 3,500 of loss, some on nice tread, but mostly on rocks. Lots and lots of rocks, a bit tough on the feet. When I got back, a surprise awaited me: another flat tire. And I was already driving on my spare! Good thing I have a spare spare, one of those little toy tires that look like they are from a clown car, which I put in the back after my last flat tire 3 weeks ago on the Obstruction point road. I felt nervous all the way home driving on that thing, but it did the trick. I think I need new tires, even though the old ones still have good tread. After 4 years and 55 thousand miles, I think the old ones have had their day. I never did get to find out if I could do 3,500 feet of gain in one day with an overnight pack, but I did learn that I am getting in shape generally. The first day's 1,800 feet felt like nothing, and I did 2,500 the second day no problem. Even the hike out only made me sore and tired while I was doing it. Trip stats: 1st day, 4 miles and 1,800 ft. 2nd day, 8 miles and 2,500 ft. 3rd day, 8 miles and 1,000 ft. 21 miles and a vertical mile up/down all told.

[puzzlr]

[Ancient Ambler]

Spectacular trip and photos!

[ASBrauer]

[PTLateHiker]

Slugman, Were bugs bad in the basin? I'm going up on Saturday. Thanks

[Canuck]

See any damage from the fires that was burning up in that area a few weeks ago? I can't decide if that loop or the Goat Lake/Snowgrass Flats loop is my favorite. Just reading your report, I could picture myself there. I love that place. Excellent photos, as usual! (I was there this same time of year a couple years ago and the bugs were HORRENDOUS. The next time I go, it'll be later, mid-to-late September. I can only imagine how magical it is then).

[Slugman]

Thanks! Ah, the bug net, the best 8 ozs of weight I carried. It saved my bacon at Thornton lakes and now again at Deer lake. It is so nice to be able to really relax, read a book, have dinner, etc, in camp, without being bothered by bugs or wearing any bug spray. I never set it up at Lunch lake, as the bugs were very tolerable. Mainly I'm talking about black flies, there were very few mosquitoes. I can even use it for short breaks on the trail just by throwing it over me, which I would do only under extreme assault, but man what a relief if I do use it. At Lunch lake I could have slept under it since there was no dew fall. I need to bring a small sheet of thin plastic and a few clothespins, then it would be a fair-weather tent. PTLH: bugs were present, but not what I would call bad. For much of the time I was left completely alone. Canuck: no sign at all of any fire.

[JustJoe]

Thank you for the little escape with that great TR. Your photographs are spectacular. I'm surprised you didn't see any wildlife though. Where did you get that nifty little bug shelter? I can think of many trips where that thing would have been the ticket. Glad to hear you didn't bleed to death out there.

[Slugman]

Canuck: funny you should mention Goat lake/Snowgrass. That's where I'm going this weekend. JJoe: I got the bug shelter at REI years ago. They make a one-person version as well, or they used to. I love it during heavy bug season, and the rest of the time I don't bring it.

[Tazz]

sluggy!! nice pics dude!

[RodF]

[Magellan]

Stunning! Your photo skills are on the way up, no doubt. The writing was quite poetic. If I bled for 9 hours I would be in a hospital. I guess it's not much for a guy who had a heart attack. The best part is hearing how you are getting in better shape. I'm glad the medical scare isn't keeping you down.

My favorite because of the lakelets glowing

[Karen²]

Good job on the pics Sluggy! Very very nice.

[mossy mom]

I like the alpenglow shot of Olympus. I was airlifted off of the high divided right at sunset. I'll never forget that view.

[bobbi]

sluggo........I LOVE IT! i can't wait to get back to the high divide on my annual one day loop hike! fantastic photos sorry about your tongue yes, most excellent that you are doing lots of hikes in the olympics and getting back in shape after the big scare! take care .....