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mtn.climber
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mtn.climber
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PostSun Mar 21, 2010 10:16 pm 
This weekend I decided to climb Colchuck Peak with my son Dan, who is a FS hotshot firefighter. I don't get to climb with him very often since he is busy during fire season and not able to take time off. I invited other climbing friends Chris and EastKing to join us. Our original plan was to hike in to Lake Colchuck on Saturday and set up camp. Then on Sunday we were going to summit and hike out. BUT...Mother Nature had other plans. The weather was predicted to deteriorate late Saturday night, so we decided to hike in and go for the summit on Saturday, then hike back out the next day. EastKing said he wouldn't be able to get as early of start as I wanted, so we made plans to meet at the lake before we began to climb. EK found a couple of friends to join him, Jimbopo and Rokizgod, so he wouldn't have to hike in alone. The road is closed at Bridge Creek campground, so it is a 4-mile walk on the road to the trailhead. The lower part of the road is snow-free, but there is still a lot of snow on the road as we neared the trail entrance. I'd guess that it will be 5-6 more weeks before the road is open all the way to the end.
Still lots of snow at the trailhead
Still lots of snow at the trailhead
Dan on the bridge crossing
Dan on the bridge crossing
The trail has a great boot track already laid down, but it was slippery early in the morning. We debated about putting our crampons on, but decided to just stick with our boots. By the time we reached the Stuart Lake junction, the sun was coming over the mountains, and started softening the snow.
Snow humps
Snow humps
Chris soaking up the views
Chris soaking up the views
Dan on the hike in
Dan on the hike in
We made it to the frozen lake at 10:30 a.m., and walked across it towards the south shore until we found a spot to set up camp. This was when we finally put our snowshoes on. The snow had a sugary texture that didn't support any weight. We managed to dig out a platform and set up our tent. Then we relaxed while we waited for EastKing to arrive.
Beautiful day
Beautiful day
Relaxing around camp
Relaxing around camp
c8_m.jpg At 1 p.m., with no sign of EK and company, we snowshoed across the lake to begin our climb up the glacier. Our plan was to use snowshoes on the lower part of the glacier, then stash them and finish the climb with our crampons. During one steep stretch, I found out my snowshoes didn't grip as well as Dan's or Chris's, so I convinced them it was time for the crampons. We were in a little saddle probably about 1/3 of the way up.
Start of the glacier climb
Start of the glacier climb
Weird snow formations
Weird snow formations
It was such a beautiful day that we expected to see other groups heading up, but to our surprise we were the only ones at that time. Unfortunately, that meant that we had to kick steps in as we zigzagged our way up the glacier, with the towering walls of Dragontail and Colchuck looming on both sides. Dan and Chris did an amazing job taking turns leading and kicking in steps.
Going up
Going up
Break time on the glacier
Break time on the glacier
By 4 p.m. we were at the col with great views of Mount Rainier and several other peaks in the distance. I was satisfied with my effort at this point and decided to stop. After a few minutes rest, Dan and Chris headed up the last slopes towards the summit. Both were nearly there when Chris, who drove from Moses Lake during the pre-dawn hours for the climb, decided he'd had enough. Dan continued on towards the summit, and reached the top a few minutes before 5 p.m. up.gif up.gif
Clowning around at Colchuck col
Clowning around at Colchuck col
At Colchuck col
At Colchuck col
Looking down Colchuck glacier
Looking down Colchuck glacier
Dan & Chris on their way up
Dan & Chris on their way up
Dan & Chris nearing the summit
Dan & Chris nearing the summit
Dragontail
Dragontail
Colchuck col views
Colchuck col views
As we all re-united again at the col, we were met by EK and his climbing friends. They continued to the top, where I heard they had a great view of the sunset. Dan, Chris and I began to head back down. We had a couple of really good glissades to help us, and we arrived back at the camp a little after 7 p.m. Chris decided that he was going to try and hike back to the car, rather than stay the night. Even though it was nearly dark, he felt he would be okay. (I found out later that he made it out safely). We melted some snow for drinking water, cooked up some dinner, and crawled into the tent at 9 p.m. The weather forecast was right. During the night, wind gusts reached over 40 mph, and fresh snow had a lot of our gear buried by the time we crawled out of the tent in the morning.
Different weather on Sunday
Different weather on Sunday
We loaded up our gear and began the 8-mile trek back to the car. Using a casual pace, we made it to the car by 2 p.m., and finished off a great weekend with Pepperjack burgers and Enchantment Ale at Gustav's in Leavenworth. up.gif up.gif Facts: 21 miles round-trip 6700 feet vertical gain Snowshoes, crampons

Reach for the sky, cuz tomorrow may never come. Live the life of love. Love the life you live.
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EastKing
Surfing and Hiking



Joined: 28 Mar 2007
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Location: 77 miles from Seattle!
EastKing
Surfing and Hiking
PostSun Mar 21, 2010 10:20 pm 
It was great trip! Colchuck was the definite way to go. Awesome mountains for a winter ascent! Nice pics and TR!! up.gif up.gif

YouTube | SummitPost Saw the depths of despair. Now I am salvaging what time I have left on Earth.
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RokIzGud
Cozza Frenzy



Joined: 08 Feb 2010
Posts: 1049 | TRs | Pics
RokIzGud
Cozza Frenzy
PostSun Mar 21, 2010 10:55 pm 
It was nice meeting you! Im grateful for the awesome steps you guys kicked up.gif up.gif

North by Northwest
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tomastaylor
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Joined: 11 May 2007
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tomastaylor
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PostMon Mar 22, 2010 10:59 am 
Here's a photo of Colchuck taken from the Icicle Ridge Lookout on Saturday, March 20, about 1 pm. Maybe you guys are visible on the glacier :-)

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RokIzGud
Cozza Frenzy



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RokIzGud
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PostMon Mar 22, 2010 11:22 am 
Oh and heres a picture of you you guys above me...
Mtn. Climbers Group Heading Up
Mtn. Climbers Group Heading Up

North by Northwest
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silence
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silence
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PostMon Mar 22, 2010 11:37 am 
nice one! up.gif great pix ... thx for the beta

PHOTOS FILMS Keep a good head and always carry a light bulb. – Bob Dylan
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mtn.climber
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Location: The Lost Horizon
mtn.climber
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PostMon Mar 22, 2010 12:29 pm 
Thanks for adding those photos TT and Rok, they're great.

Reach for the sky, cuz tomorrow may never come. Live the life of love. Love the life you live.
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CRoberts
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CRoberts
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PostMon Mar 22, 2010 4:40 pm 
Lots of fun! Thanks for allowing me to join your party!

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bonobo
Owl Juggler for rent



Joined: 23 Jun 2004
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bonobo
Owl Juggler for rent
PostMon Mar 22, 2010 6:19 pm 
I'm loving these colchuck reports, I can't get enought of the Stuart range. Great summit, thanks for the pics!

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wolfs
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PostMon Mar 22, 2010 8:34 pm 
tomastaylor wrote:
Here's a photo of Colchuck taken from the Icicle Ridge Lookout on Saturday, March 20, about 1 pm. Maybe you guys are visible on the glacier :-)
That snowfield looks so awesome from that angle. Always looks to me like Colchuck is "throwing the horns" ...

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CRoberts
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Joined: 31 May 2009
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Location: Ottershaw, Surrey, England
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PostThu Mar 25, 2010 4:57 pm 
I thought i'd add some of my own to this TR...was interesting wathcing these two clowns put up their new tent haha! Anyways, enjoy!

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