Forum Index > Trip Reports > April 11-14, 2010 Capitol Reef National Park, SE Utah Part 3
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John Morrow
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John Morrow
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PostThu Apr 15, 2010 9:18 am 
Capitol Reef is such a great lesser visited park for such a wide variety of hiking opportunities from sandstone peak scrambles, high ridge (in this case "reef") runs, and great canyon washes and slots. It is great for both day hikes and overnights so I started my time here with a few day hikes while staying at the campground. April 11; Travel day from Horseshoe Canyon of Canyonlands National Park to Capitol Reef National Park. A quick stop at Blondie's while passing through Hanksville on UT Hwy 95 and I was off the 40 miles west on Hwy 24 to Capitol Reef visitor center and campground. Blondie's has real good coffee and good cheap breakfast, greasy hashbrown style, if one finds themselves passing through Hanksville at breakfast. After a visitor center stop--very knowledgeable folks at the National Park Visitor Center on backcountry hikes and conditions--I went and set up camp at the campground. 10 bucks a night I'd say is affordable. One thing guaranteed about this park is that you will definitely get at least one sunset treat while here if you have a couple nights. At least three trails will put one at a great vantage for such delights! Last year, upon arrival, I took the Old Wagon Trail. Link: https://www.nwhikers.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=7975376&highlight= This day I walked straight out of the campground into the Fremont River gorge and up to the viewpoint on the Fremont River Trail, 1.25 short miles to a viewpoint that looks back at the reef and campground. It did not disappoint! I waited until dusk salmon light on the thin overlying clouds and then enjoyed a casual walk back in fading light.
Campground orchard freeloaders
Campground orchard freeloaders
Fremont River Trail
Fremont River Trail
Side drainage on trail
Side drainage on trail
Capitol Reef N.P., Fremont Overlook trail  IMG_0010
Capitol Reef N.P., Fremont Overlook trail IMG_0010
Fading light
Fading light
Back at campground orchard
Back at campground orchard
Capitol Reef, Fern's
Capitol Reef, Fern's
April 12: Cold front with some precip anticipated so I stayed out of washes today just in case. The Park also has some interesting overland routes and trails. Today I took the 4.5 mile one way up to the Navaho knobs viewpoint on the crest of the reef. The wind was howling in advance of the front, but the precip never came, and the views were about as to be expected: great the whole way. The trail is interesting as it follows the natural inclination of the (anticlinal) reef along the joint where the ledgy Kayenta Sandstone meets the Navaho Sandstone. Apparently the Navaho was ancient sanddunes and thus weathers into the neat domelands. The kayenta, however, is fractured horizontal beds and full of reds and other colors. The incline of the reef is perfect for a climbing trail as the trail never has to even switchback to gain 1500 feet!
Pectol's Pyramid
Pectol's Pyramid
Capitol Reef National Park
Capitol Reef National Park
Trail follows Kayenta benches
Trail follows Kayenta benches
Toward Navaho Knobs
Toward Navaho Knobs
Lenticulars; approaching front?
Lenticulars; approaching front?
Long Reef
Long Reef
I was ready for a bit of exploration on the return on the same trail. I saw some big trees in the distance on a cool plateau so I found a dry wash that drained the plateau and followed it, thus to not bust any crypto crust. A side wash led me to the trees, alas, Ponderosa Pines like home!
Pretty valley,big trees???
Pretty valley,big trees???
Ponderosa Pines!
Ponderosa Pines!
Tree row
Tree row
The needle beds were so thick no cryptobiotic crust could form so I hiked beneath them until the wash narrowed into a narrows. It changed direction along parallel Navaho Fins and led me into a sort-of slot that dived off into a rockland paradise of confusing drainage junctions and slots. Too bad I was out of time to explore or I may have gotten myself into real trouble!
Domeland incognita
Domeland incognita
Whoa, where to go from here
Whoa, where to go from here
Looking ominous
Looking ominous
seen from the Navaho Knobs trail   IMG_0071
seen from the Navaho Knobs trail IMG_0071
Trail on Kayenta sandstone
Trail on Kayenta sandstone
Love the wavy rock
Love the wavy rock
slot attempt to gain Hickman Bridge
slot attempt to gain Hickman Bridge
April 13th: Crappy weather hit, cold but not a whole lot of precipitation. I decided a rest day was in order so went to the Anasazi State Park and Museum in Boulder Utah, about 50 miles south. Small but inexpensive museum. Plus it was very informative with a great and knowledgeable curator named Don. It was neat to get a Hopi perspective on the ancestral pueblo cultural archaeology sites, rock art, and rituals. April 14th: Today was a great day of exploration of a trip I have really wanted to do in the past. Fortunately, on Tuesday, I met a great potential hiking partner with a long resume of hiking, canyoneering, and climbing all over the west named Phil. The trip Phil had in mind was a high run of the top of the reef connecting two canyon washes called Capitol Gorge and Grand wash. The trip starts on a 2 mile maintained hiking trail climbing out of Capitol Gorge ascending to a viewpoint of another prominent Navaho Dome called the Great Throne.
There's the destination
There's the destination
taking a break on the reef crest
taking a break on the reef crest
First look at the Nipple
First look at the Nipple
Our plan was to continue beyond, pass by the Fern's Nipple, find a route up it, and finish at a second vehicle parked in the Grand Wash Trailhead. The whole trip went flawlessly, thanks in a large part to the very accurate and detailed route drawing onto USGS Quads by a retired volunteer ranger at the visitor center. When coming to Capitol Reef to venture, make sure that you ask for Rick the retired Geology Professor who volunteers in the Spring at the visitor center and in the backcountry. He obviously has much First Hand experience! Yes, his last name happens to be Springfield, but don't go there…
Navaho formations everywhere
Navaho formations everywhere
Looking back at reef run
Looking back at reef run
Shinob Canyon branch below
Shinob Canyon branch below
north slope/ridge route
north slope/ridge route
view north
view north
short class 3 moves
short class 3 moves
Fern's Nipple summit
Fern's Nipple summit
Capitol Reef from the summit
Capitol Reef from the summit
Headed down
Headed down
On descent
On descent
Descending the route Fern's Nipple
Descending the route Fern's Nipple
Fun slabs
Fun slabs
Looking up at the route
Looking up at the route
Once off Fern's Nipple the route then continues north descending to the prominent Kayenta ledges, traverses in and out of Shinob Canyon side branches while on the ledge, and then passes through Bear canyon for a final descent of a downward traverse into Grand Wash below the Kayenta bench.
Dropping off Fern's
Dropping off Fern's
Looking back from the exit traverse
Looking back from the exit traverse
Capitol Reef National Park, Ferns Nipple from Bear Canyon
Capitol Reef National Park, Ferns Nipple from Bear Canyon
Running the ledges around
Running the ledges around
Final walk on the Kayenta ledge
Final walk on the Kayenta ledge
Incredible day! Trip was just over nine miles in length. Last night at the campground, Phil and I parted ways, and I am now off to do backpack somewhere else in the park.

“Tell me, what is it you plan to do with your one wild and precious life?”-Mary Oliver “A nation that continues year after year to spend more money on military defense than on programs of social uplift is approaching spiritual doom.” ― MLK Jr.
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kite
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kite
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PostThu Apr 15, 2010 10:28 am 
Great TR, it really has me excited for my trip there next week.

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kleet
meat tornado



Joined: 06 Feb 2002
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kleet
meat tornado
PostThu Apr 15, 2010 10:44 am 
Re: April 11-14, 2010 Capitol Reef National Park SE Utah Part 3
John Morrow wrote:
Yes, his last name happens to be Springfield, but don't go there…
lol.gif Looks like some gorgeous country, John!

A fuxk, why do I not give one?
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Highwalker's Daughter
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Highwalker's Daughter
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PostFri Apr 16, 2010 1:44 pm 
Thanks for posting this! I'm taking my mother there this June - looks like it will be a wonderful trip as your pictures are awesome.

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Bloated Chipmunk
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Joined: 29 Jan 2007
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Bloated Chipmunk
Cock Rock Searcher
PostFri Apr 16, 2010 2:44 pm 
up.gif up.gif

Home is where the hiking is. "Peaks that have come and gone four times should halt a man in his steps." -- William O. Douglas A balanced diet is a margarita in each hand.
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El Puma
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El Puma
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PostSat Apr 17, 2010 7:14 am 
One of my favorite parks! Thanks for reviving the memories!

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Movenhike
\m/..mmmmetal\m/



Joined: 16 Apr 2007
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Location: Leavenworth, WA
Movenhike
\m/..mmmmetal\m/
PostSat Apr 17, 2010 9:45 am 
First of all, I wish I lived in Torrey! wub.gif wub.gif wub.gif The Capitol Gorge>>Fern's Nipple>>Grand Wash Traverse looks EXCEL-FRIGGIN-ENT-A up.gif

"Make it your Friend" -John Bull
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Dean
(aka CascadeHiker)



Joined: 02 Mar 2002
Posts: 1967 | TRs | Pics
Location: ex Kennewick, Wa & Lehi Utah
Dean
(aka CascadeHiker)
PostSun Apr 18, 2010 11:37 am 
Great TR. I just came back today from a day at Capitol Reef . Hiked up to the top of Mummy Cliff for some excellent views and then made the easy hike up to Hickman Bridge. We stayed in Torrey because the campground was full but I love Capitol Reef and all that it offers. Last year two of us made the effort to climb an unknown peak known as George BM, near the Golden Throne. Pics and info on it are here: http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/558399/George-BM-peak-UT-.html Thanks for the Fern's Nipple info, that is on my to do list. up.gif

Dean - working in Utah for awhile and feeling like it is a 'paid' vacation. http://www.summitpost.org/user_page.php?user_id=1160
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John Morrow
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PostSun Apr 18, 2010 6:03 pm 
Thanks everyone for the comments! Dean, I just missed you. Got back to get one of the last sites in the campground after 3 days in Spring Canyon. Today I did a short loop around Cohab to rest up a bit. While in Spring everything went excellent as I was able to reach Capitol Benchmark 7614' on day two. On day 3 I connected a route from Spring canyon, just above the narrows, to Longleaf Flat at the Navaho Knobs Trail through the Navaho domeland maze . I'll try to post a TR tomorrow. Thanks for the excellent beta on George BM, it has always intrigued me. Something for my visit next year! And your crypto spiel is very thoughtful and appreciated. John

“Tell me, what is it you plan to do with your one wild and precious life?”-Mary Oliver “A nation that continues year after year to spend more money on military defense than on programs of social uplift is approaching spiritual doom.” ― MLK Jr.
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Dean
(aka CascadeHiker)



Joined: 02 Mar 2002
Posts: 1967 | TRs | Pics
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Dean
(aka CascadeHiker)
PostSun Apr 18, 2010 6:47 pm 
John, were you driving a small white car (toyota I believe) and if so, I just missed you in the Chimney Rock trailhead lot. The vehicle had Washington plates and I saw the owner leave and head up the trail. As I was going up the loop toward Mummy Cliffs, I saw that same hiker heading toward the Spring Canyon trail. Most likely it was another hiker but just wondering. Also, I met Rick the ranger at the Visitor center, he has just put out a book (Hiking and touring guide). He kindly autographed my copy. Nice guy. Capitol Reef is a real treasure. Another peak I want to hit sometime is Buck Peak off the Pleasant Creek / Lower Bowns reservoir area. I'm going to be very interested in your Capitol BM report, that one intriques me as well. Good to hear from you and know we were there at the same time. I also did the Cohab trail this morning from the campground side. Take care..... Dean

Dean - working in Utah for awhile and feeling like it is a 'paid' vacation. http://www.summitpost.org/user_page.php?user_id=1160
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John Morrow
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John Morrow
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PostTue Apr 20, 2010 6:54 am 
Dean wrote:
John, were you driving a small white car (toyota I believe) and if so, I just missed you in the Chimney Rock trailhead lot. The vehicle had Washington plates and I saw the owner leave and head up the trail. As I was going up the loop toward Mummy Cliffs, I saw that same hiker heading toward the Spring Canyon trail. Most likely it was another hiker but just wondering. Also, I met Rick the ranger at the Visitor center, he has just put out a book (Hiking and touring guide). He kindly autographed my copy. Nice guy. Capitol Reef is a real treasure. Another peak I want to hit sometime is Buck Peak off the Pleasant Creek / Lower Bowns reservoir area. I'm going to be very interested in your Capitol BM report, that one intriques me as well. Good to hear from you and know we were there at the same time. I also did the Cohab trail this morning from the campground side. Take care..... Dean
Hi Dean, I've wrestled back and forth about Summitpost, glad it is there. Not sure if i have the patience to do good peak beta. I remember Klenke giving someone sh## for an incomplete page on a peak so that drew me away. NWHikers and TAY are quite civil. Anyway, I really like your stuff on there. I have a white Honda Civic 4 door so that probably was me you saw. My plan now is 4 days in Cedar Mesa country for Ancestral Puebloan stuff. I meet friends in Sedona Fri. night, then Monday through Thurs next week open: Escalante, Zion, paria area????? Do you get any midweek time free? Then home to water plants, pay bills, try to make up for the extra missed time that my supervisor is not so psyched I am taking, etc. Again, I appreciate your comments, I know these TR's run on a bit.....

“Tell me, what is it you plan to do with your one wild and precious life?”-Mary Oliver “A nation that continues year after year to spend more money on military defense than on programs of social uplift is approaching spiritual doom.” ― MLK Jr.
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Dean
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Joined: 02 Mar 2002
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Dean
(aka CascadeHiker)
PostTue Apr 20, 2010 7:32 am 
John You were just leaving your vehicle when my wife and I pulled into the trailhead and when I saw the washington plates I wanted to say hello but you were already hustling up the trail. I always wonder if someone in a Washington car might be a NWHikers member. A woman and her two little boys left the trailhead just about the same time you did so you probably passed them near the start. Your trip reports are great and I appreciate all the pics. Have a great trip and keep them coming. I have to go move some more boxes. waah.gif Dean

Dean - working in Utah for awhile and feeling like it is a 'paid' vacation. http://www.summitpost.org/user_page.php?user_id=1160
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Forum Index > Trip Reports > April 11-14, 2010 Capitol Reef National Park, SE Utah Part 3
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