Forum Index > Trip Reports > Little Tahoma Peak 11,136' 5/13/10
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Andy D.
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Andy D.
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PostWed May 19, 2010 2:39 pm 
Thanks Tom, I also posted links to the MRNP pages in my previous post. In all likelihood I will not do this solo, but I had been wondering what the rules were. One of the reasons I brought it up was to bring to light the fact that you DO need written permission from the NP to attempt this. I didn't see mention of the permit in the trip report so I wanted to make sure others knew about it before attempting it solo as it is NOT a good objective for inexperienced climbers.

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Yana
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Yana
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PostWed May 19, 2010 2:40 pm 
Nice TR! That seems like a long way to go.
Redwic wrote:
My concern is that it seems like going to Little Tahoma solo would be an unnecessary risk, particularly if the report afterwards gives some readers (especially less-experienced ones) hope to do such risky behavior themselves.
The OP is not responsible for what people do with the information he posts. It is everyone's responsibility to assess the route and their abilities. His trip report would only be one of many pieces of information that a person should use to determine whether or not to do a particular trip. nwhikers.net even has a sticky disclaimer addressing some of this. You could argue that climbing anything is an unnecessary risk.

PLAY SAFE! SKI ONLY IN CLOCKWISE DIRECTION! LET'S ALL HAVE FUN TOGETHER!
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Josh Journey
a.k.a Josh Lewis



Joined: 01 Nov 2007
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Josh Journey
a.k.a Josh Lewis
PostWed May 19, 2010 2:50 pm 
Prussiks while soloing? huh.gif "Clothing and Equipment you will take on your summit attempt:... Prussiks/Ascenders, Ice Tools..." What if your route you solo does not require ice tools? wink.gif

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SeanSullivan86
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SeanSullivan86
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PostWed May 19, 2010 2:56 pm 
Josh, my guess is that the list is there for people to check off what they have so that potential rescuers know in advance what the person is carrying with them. I don't think it says the gear is all mandatory. Ice tools could prove useful for self rescue from a crevasse though, no? While I don't have any experience with such things, I don't think it'd be hard to find a use for prussiks in various solo rope systems. For example: to cross a snow bridge... build an anchor on one side of the bridge, cross the bridge, build an anchor on the other side, cross back over to break down the 1st anchor, and finally cross a 3rd time. If you fall in, prussik out.

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Josh Journey
a.k.a Josh Lewis



Joined: 01 Nov 2007
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Josh Journey
a.k.a Josh Lewis
PostWed May 19, 2010 3:12 pm 
SeanSullivan86 wrote:
For example: to cross a snow bridge... build an anchor on one side of the bridge, cross the bridge, build an anchor on the other side, cross back over to break down the 1st anchor, and finally cross a 3rd time. If you fall in, prussik out.
I never thought of that. (Not that you would see me doing that anytime soon), but really that is inventive, but time consuming.

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Tom_Sjolseth
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Tom_Sjolseth
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PostWed May 19, 2010 3:15 pm 
SeanSullivan86 wrote:
Josh, my guess is that the list is there for people to check off what they have so that potential rescuers know in advance what the person is carrying with them. I don't think it says the gear is all mandatory. Ice tools could prove useful for self rescue from a crevasse though, no? While I don't have any experience with such things, I don't think it'd be hard to find a use for prussiks in various solo rope systems. For example: to cross a snow bridge... build an anchor on one side of the bridge, cross the bridge, build an anchor on the other side, cross back over to break down the 1st anchor, and finally cross a 3rd time. If you fall in, prussik out.
Or walk in the center rung of an aluminum ladder like Vern Tejas on his first winter solo ascent of Denali. If you fall in a crevasse, hopefully the ladder will catch you. hockeygrin.gif

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Redwic
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Joined: 23 Feb 2009
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Redwic
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PostWed May 19, 2010 4:41 pm 
Andy D. wrote:
Thanks Tom, I also posted links to the MRNP pages in my previous post. In all likelihood I will not do this solo, but I had been wondering what the rules were. One of the reasons I brought it up was to bring to light the fact that you DO need written permission from the NP to attempt this. I didn't see mention of the permit in the trip report so I wanted to make sure others knew about it before attempting it solo as it is NOT a good objective for inexperienced climbers.
That was basically my point, too.
Yana wrote:
The OP is not responsible for what people do with the information he posts. It is everyone's responsibility to assess the route and their abilities. His trip report would only be one of many pieces of information that a person should use to determine whether or not to do a particular trip. nwhikers.net even has a sticky disclaimer addressing some of this. You could argue that climbing anything is an unnecessary risk.
True, mountaineering has its risks, but there are "calculated" risks and there are "unnecessary" risks. I already know R2H has experience, but I cannot say the same thing about some of the more-impressionable people on here. rolleyes.gif Plus, after this TR was written, I personally know of three people who suddenly feel like they can do it, too. I'm just saying...

60 pounds lighter but not 60 points brighter.
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raising3hikers
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raising3hikers
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PostWed May 19, 2010 5:54 pm 
Many of you have brought up a very important piece of information about the solo permit that I didn't put into the original TR and should have. I have since edited the TR with a note at the top. I certainly don't want to steer anyone in the wrong direction as solo climbing can be very risky. Thanks guys!

Eric Eames
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bobbi
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bobbi
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PostWed May 19, 2010 8:17 pm 
great TR, r2h......glad to read that you are basically fully recovered and are able to do what you love.....climbing biggrin.gif . as always, fantastic photos.

bobbi ૐ "Today is your day! Your mountain is waiting. So…get on your way!" - Oh, the Places You’ll Go! By Dr. Seuss
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Redwic
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Redwic
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PostWed May 19, 2010 9:06 pm 
raising2hikers wrote:
Many of you have brought up a very important piece of information about the solo permit that I didn't put into the original TR and should have. I have since edited the TR with a note at the top. I certainly don't want to steer anyone in the wrong direction as solo climbing can be very risky. Thanks guys!
Thanks for that, R2H. Again, I applaud the accomplishment.

60 pounds lighter but not 60 points brighter.
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hitda peakz
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hitda peakz
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PostSun May 23, 2010 10:29 pm 
Andy D. wrote:
...attempting it solo as it is NOT a good objective for inexperienced climbers.
Did you mean attempting it solo is not a good objective, or Little Tahoma in general is not a good objective? A friend was recently telling me that it is a good intro to glacier travel for relatively inexperienced teams. I was thinking about heading up with a team of two, and both of us will be trained in glacier travel/crevasse rescue when the time comes. We both have experience in class 3 rock, belays, and basic setting of rock anchors, for that last section. Perhaps we could even skip the last exposed place, because we are trying to prepare for an attempt of Rainier later, and just really care about the glacier. The planned date for Little Tahoma is late June. Let me know if anyone has any thoughts on this, and perhaps other destinations for a first glacier climb. Thanks! Edit: to clarify, we will probably take the route from the Fryingpan Creek trailhead.

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Andy D.
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Andy D.
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PostMon May 24, 2010 6:22 am 
I just meant it isn't a good idea solo for an inexperienced climber.

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Jim Dockery
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PostMon May 24, 2010 8:20 am 
Going up from Summerland has less crevased glacier travel, so is a bit safer I'd say, esp. solo. I skied it some years ago and felt fine unroped - it was easy to avoid the few crevases that year. If you are a confident rock climber who can mentally handle exposure you don't need a rope for the last bit, but if you get there and it freaks you out, the false summit is pretty nice.

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EastKing
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Joined: 28 Mar 2007
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EastKing
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PostMon May 24, 2010 9:55 pm 
hitda peakz wrote:
Andy D. wrote:
...attempting it solo as it is NOT a good objective for inexperienced climbers.
Did you mean attempting it solo is not a good objective, or Little Tahoma in general is not a good objective? A friend was recently telling me that it is a good intro to glacier travel for relatively inexperienced teams. I was thinking about heading up with a team of two, and both of us will be trained in glacier travel/crevasse rescue when the time comes. We both have experience in class 3 rock, belays, and basic setting of rock anchors, for that last section. Perhaps we could even skip the last exposed place, because we are trying to prepare for an attempt of Rainier later, and just really care about the glacier. The planned date for Little Tahoma is late June. Let me know if anyone has any thoughts on this, and perhaps other destinations for a first glacier climb. Thanks! Edit: to clarify, we will probably take the route from the Fryingpan Creek trailhead.
Check out the Plans/Partners link... There is a trip heading up there this weekend.

YouTube | SummitPost Saw the depths of despair. Now I am salvaging what time I have left on Earth.
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