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EastKing
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EastKing
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PostMon May 24, 2010 10:01 pm 
Little Tahoma this upcoming weekend. It will be this Saturday and Sunday. PM me if interested. This is a glacier climb so we will be roping up. Z-pulley and working with prusiks experience required. Conditions right now are looking real good. -EK

YouTube | SummitPost Saw the depths of despair. Now I am salvaging what time I have left on Earth.
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Redwic
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PostMon May 24, 2010 10:08 pm 
I am on the "maybe" list. You might want to check those "conditions" again. Just because one person posts a solo trip report on here, does not warrant good conditions... especially for a group expedition where steep, loose rocks are involved. Also, the current weather forecast is not favorable, either. Of course, that could change at any time. However, that peak might not be a good option if it is snowing and/or if it has fresh new (slick) snow. I have no direct experience from which to base that assertion, outside of what I have heard from a few people who have summited the peak. But if the sky is clear and the rocks are dry, that might be a great peak to attempt! agree.gif

60 pounds lighter but not 60 points brighter.
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mtn.climber
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PostTue May 25, 2010 11:35 pm 
Greg, If you don't feel comfortable with weather, team dynamics, etc., wait until I can join you. The route from Summerland should be good at least well into July. If you do go this weekend, be real careful. Don't get caught up on that loose stuff in wet weather.

Reach for the sky, cuz tomorrow may never come. Live the life of love. Love the life you live.
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Redwic
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PostWed May 26, 2010 1:23 pm 
cartman wrote:
Are you checking NWS? Forecasting 2-3 feet new snow through Friday over a consolidated base, and then Sat the first sunny day after the snowfall--recipe for avalanches. Not to mention the new snow caking the summit rocks. Consider doing it after the new snow consolidates. Summerland route typically good through end of July.
I mentioned that concern to EK last night. I'm glad somebody else did on here, as well. I guess I will start looking for other plans... Anyone for Mount Baker this weekend? cool.gif

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Josh Journey
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Josh Journey
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PostWed May 26, 2010 6:44 pm 
Redwic wrote:
Anyone for Mount Baker this weekend? cool.gif
Tempting! slobber.gif Is it a good weekend to do Baker?

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Redwic
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PostWed May 26, 2010 7:25 pm 
Flow wrote:
Redwic wrote:
Anyone for Mount Baker this weekend? cool.gif
Tempting! slobber.gif Is it a good weekend to do Baker?
That's what I'm starting to wonder. The added snow might make a lot of steep rocky peaks (such as Little Tahoma) be a less desirable option, but perhaps the new snow would assist on Mount Baker? After all, what's another 1'-2' of new snow this week going to do on *that* mountain (which already has tons of snow on it)? I'm not certain if the conditions would be optimum or not, but perhaps one of the "experts" on here might know. The *current* weather forecast at Mount Baker looks good from midday Saturday ("mostly cloudy") through midday Sunday ("mostly sunny"). Of course, conditions might change between now and then, but if not then it might be an optimum weekend to go. There are other high elevation options possible for this weekend, too, but my thought-pattern is that I would rather go to Mount Baker before the crevasses start really opening up soon. Plus, there is no way of knowing in advance how the weather will be during other upcoming weekends to attempt this mountain (which is high on my personal "to do" list). hijacked.gif (Perhaps I should create my own thread for this!)

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Tom_Sjolseth
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PostWed May 26, 2010 9:27 pm 
I think you'd be postholing up to your neck this weekend on Baker. FWIW.

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DIYSteve
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PostWed May 26, 2010 9:43 pm 
cartman wrote:
Are you checking NWS? Forecasting 2-3 feet new snow through Friday over a consolidated base
Where are you seeing that forecast? Everything I'm looking at is calling for on-shore flow showers, maybe a few inches of snow up high by the weekend. As Tom says, expect a post-hole fest this weekend. This is why I'll likely be E of the crest on skis this weekend.

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Layback
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PostWed May 26, 2010 10:10 pm 
Tom_Sjolseth wrote:
I think you'd be postholing up to your neck this weekend on Baker. FWIW.
Do they make gators for that? That sounds unpleasant.

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Redwic
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PostWed May 26, 2010 10:13 pm 
Tom_Sjolseth wrote:
I think you'd be postholing up to your neck this weekend on Baker. FWIW.
And probably most places, as well. I'll definitely take your opinion to heart. There are several options on the table for me this weekend... I'll see how the weather unfolds during the next day or so before making any firm decision.

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EastKing
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PostWed May 26, 2010 11:13 pm 
Hmmm! Avy danger high! Many of my most experienced friends not going. Common sense has to come in here. agree.gif How about Dragontail and Little Annapourna via Asgard. There should be less snow over there and no real crevasses. Plus it may be a zoo there but the weather will be better. Little Tahoma will have another day. up.gif

YouTube | SummitPost Saw the depths of despair. Now I am salvaging what time I have left on Earth.
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cartman
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PostThu May 27, 2010 6:14 am 
Routes on Baker not so good right after a big dump either. General rule, being on big open faces the first day or so after a big dump or after a series of smaller ones, especially over a consolidated base not a good idea. Let it slide and/or consolidate first. Also the big slopes tend to be exposed to wind scouring or wind loading, but sometimes can be tricky to predict which in a given spot. Scouring is great, but could be nasty if it's loaded. Matt and I bailed on a Colfax/Sherman plan because of the predicted dump. Redwic, the Coleman route on Baker stays in shape into September, though there will usually be some low-angle ice and of course open crevasses to negotiate. Did that route mid-Sept my first year of climbing, not that bad (well, except for the collapsing snow bridge...). Easton usually through July, Boulder through at least June.
BigSteve wrote:
cartman wrote:
Are you checking NWS? Forecasting 2-3 feet new snow through Friday over a consolidated base
Where are you seeing that forecast? Everything I'm looking at is calling for on-shore flow showers, maybe a few inches of snow up high by the weekend.
Clicking at Baker summit on NWS gives a forecast for the 10,070' elevation. Main system now coming in tonight instead of tomorrow, 10-14" predicted for Baker tonight. Friday 3-5" during the day and again during the night. Now mostly cloudy Sat and mostly sunny Sunday. From http://www.atmos.washington.edu/data/disc_report.html : MODELS ARE IN GENERAL AGREEMENT THAT LATER TONIGHT THROUGH FRIDAY AND INTO FRIDAY NIGHT WILL BE A FAIRLY WET PERIOD. IN FACT IT COULD BE A REAL SOAKER FOR SOME AREAS OF THE CASCADES...ESPECIALLY AROUND MOUNT RAINIER WHERE THE UW WRF-GFS IS FORECASTING IN EXCESS OF 3 INCHES PRECIPITATION IN A 24-HOUR PERIOD.

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Redwic
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PostThu May 27, 2010 7:37 am 
EastKing wrote:
How about Dragontail and Little Annapourna via Asgard. There should be less snow over there and no real crevasses. Plus it may be a zoo there but the weather will be better.
By "less snow" I guess you mean only 1'-2' of fresh snow this week rather than 2'-3' of fresh snow. lol.gif
cartman wrote:
Routes on Baker not so good right after a big dump either. General rule, being on big open faces the first day or so after a big dump or after a series of smaller ones, especially over a consolidated base not a good idea. Let it slide and/or consolidate first. Also the big slopes tend to be exposed to wind scouring or wind loading, but sometimes can be tricky to predict which in a given spot. Scouring is great, but could be nasty if it's loaded. Matt and I bailed on a Colfax/Sherman plan because of the predicted dump. Redwic, the Coleman route on Baker stays in shape into September, though there will usually be some low-angle ice and of course open crevasses to negotiate. Did that route mid-Sept my first year of climbing, not that bad (well, except for the collapsing snow bridge...). Easton usually through July, Boulder through at least June.
I appreciate your advice, and will hold off on any Mount Baker attempts this weekend. It was only an idea I was batting around, and I had not made any serious considerations for it, yet. Some other trips look to be in the works, anyway... hmmm.gif

60 pounds lighter but not 60 points brighter.
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Bloated Chipmunk
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Bloated Chipmunk
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PostThu May 27, 2010 5:24 pm 
Why don't you guys just pick somewhere that doesn't have snow @ all? No snow = Problem solved. moon.gif winksmile.gif

Home is where the hiking is. "Peaks that have come and gone four times should halt a man in his steps." -- William O. Douglas A balanced diet is a margarita in each hand.
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Josh Journey
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Josh Journey
a.k.a Josh Lewis
PostThu May 27, 2010 6:38 pm 
Bloated Chipmunk wrote:
Why don't you guys just pick somewhere that doesn't have snow @ all? No snow = Problem solved.
Scr** That! That is a public outrage to say such a thing. You gotta realize, snow is at times part of the reason I go! When there is no snow, thats when there is a problem. lol.gif Although there are a few exceptions, but for the most part snow is great! biggrin.gif

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