Forum Index > Trip Reports > Southern Pickets - Inspiration Peak - S Face 06.22-23.2010
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Tom_Sjolseth
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Tom_Sjolseth
Born Yesterday
PostThu Jun 24, 2010 10:44 am 
Inspiration Peak – South Face - June 22-23, 2010 You know it’s not going to be a dull trip when your backup plan is the South Face of Inspiration Peak. Wayne Wallace and I linked up for a great trip into the Southern Pickets on Tuesday. The approach to Terror Cirque was fairly straightforward, thanks to recent work on the trail. We hit solid snow at about 4800’. Snow conditions varied from consolidated down low, to 8-12” of mush over aging spring snowpack up high. Recent fresh snows followed by warm days have made the snowpack very water-logged. Postholing was a nuisance and our boots were soaked by the time we got into camp below Pt. 6484 (6.5 hours, 6200' gain, 8.5 miles). The weather was pleasant in the afternoon, with mostly sunny skies and moderate temps. We lounged around camp taking photos and eating, then headed to bed fairly early.
Clouds blowing over the Southern Pickets.
Clouds blowing over the Southern Pickets.
Mt. Triumph from camp.
Mt. Triumph from camp.
The next morning, we awoke to warm temperatures and soft snow. Our initial objective was out of the question, so we went to plan B – the South Face of Inspiration Peak.
The imposing South Face of Inspiration Peak.
The imposing South Face of Inspiration Peak.
Views from the Terror Glacier.
Views from the Terror Glacier.
Approaching Inspiration Peak.
Approaching Inspiration Peak.
It took about 2 hours to get to the base of the route, after a late start from camp. We were able to take a rather direct line up to the start of the route thanks to a class 4 cliffband. Otherwise, we would have had to make a long end run around crevasses.
Drips coming down the center portion of Inspiration Peak’s South Face.
Drips coming down the center portion of Inspiration Peak’s South Face.
Once at the base of the face, we got off the snow via a fairly sketchy snowbridge (the moat is deep here), onto slabby rock. We went up here, then left to gain a ramp system. We followed the ramp for about 2 pitches before the final chimney. We pitched out the chimney in 2 pitches and encountered serious, loose and exposed climbing on broken, often wet rock with marginal pro (to ~5.9). In total we pitched out 6 pitches, of which Wayne led 5. We were both wearing mountaineering boots and packs which added to the difficulty of the route. Wayne did a solid job leading the wet crux pitches. Thanks, Wayne.
The ramp system up the lower portion of the face.
The ramp system up the lower portion of the face.
Looking E from midway up the face.
Looking E from midway up the face.
Wayne getting ready to belay me up the next pitch.
Wayne getting ready to belay me up the next pitch.
Me leading one of the ramp pitches.
Me leading one of the ramp pitches.
Wayne coming up the final bit of ramp to the belay.
Wayne coming up the final bit of ramp to the belay.
More ramp climbing.
More ramp climbing.
Views from the route.
Views from the route.
Me in the lower chimney.
Me in the lower chimney.
Wayne framed in the chimney, just before the last chimney pitch.
Wayne framed in the chimney, just before the last chimney pitch.
Looking down from the belay in the chimney.
Looking down from the belay in the chimney.
Why do they call this a 'squeeze chimney'?
Why do they call this a 'squeeze chimney'?
W McMillan Spire.
W McMillan Spire.
Wayne approaching the summit of Inspiration Peak.
Wayne approaching the summit of Inspiration Peak.
Me on the summit of Inspiration Peak.
Me on the summit of Inspiration Peak.
Degenhardt, Pyramid, and Terror Peaks from the summit of Inspiration Peak.
Degenhardt, Pyramid, and Terror Peaks from the summit of Inspiration Peak.
We topped out at about 1:15PM, and made 12 single rope rappels (one of which was entirely free-hanging) down the W Ridge. Huge chunks of hanging blocks of snow were bombarding the W Ridge gully as we descended, so we obviously chose to avoid it.
Wayne rappeling down the W Ridge.
Wayne rappeling down the W Ridge.
These huge blocks of snow kept collapsing as we descended.  We were safely out of their path.
These huge blocks of snow kept collapsing as we descended. We were safely out of their path.
W McMillan Spire from the descent.
W McMillan Spire from the descent.
Free-hanging rappel.
Free-hanging rappel.
One last look at the face.
One last look at the face.
A parting shot.
A parting shot.
Back to the tent to grab our things around 5:30, then packed up and headed out by 6:30. We got back to the car at 11pm after 17 hours on the move. Rather than drive home in our condition, we decided to bivy at the TH and drive out this morning. This was a serious climb on a large, steep face with challenging routefinding and exhilarating, exposed climbing. Definitely a worthwhile plan B! Thanks to Wayne for being a solid partner. up.gif

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dicey
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Joined: 11 May 2004
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dicey
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PostThu Jun 24, 2010 11:19 am 
Awesome! What was plan A?

I'm not always sure I like being older but being less stupid has advantages. http://www.flickr.com/photos/32121172@N00/sets/
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peakbagger
Sean Martin



Joined: 22 Apr 2008
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peakbagger
Sean Martin
PostThu Jun 24, 2010 11:38 am 
Looks like good times!! Can't wait til I'm recovered and back out there, Solid work!

The liver is evil.......and it must be punished!
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Mtn Man
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Joined: 13 Jan 2008
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Mtn Man
Snow addict
PostThu Jun 24, 2010 12:03 pm 
dicey wrote:
Awesome! What was plan A?
Haha, that's exactly what I was thinking! Nice work Tom and Wayne! Such a "mellow" plan B dizzy.gif B)

Mmmmm, backcountry...
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Gwizzzard
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PostThu Jun 24, 2010 9:01 pm 
Excellent pics and report...great weather to boot!

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Tom_Sjolseth
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Tom_Sjolseth
Born Yesterday
PostFri Jun 25, 2010 7:48 pm 
Plan A was the N face of W McMillan Spire, but soft conditions and warm temps caused us to reconsider.

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iron
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iron
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PostSat Jun 26, 2010 1:03 am 
good stuff tom! haven't seen wayne's name on NWH other than in the NWMJ articles where he's off doing crazy stuff.

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Larry
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PostSat Jun 26, 2010 9:20 am 
AN astonishing picture story! I remember looking from West McMillan Spire, and along the spine of the Pickets - Inspiration looked diabolical from that angle. eek.gif

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