3 of us headed up to climb mount Deception this past weekend.
We headed up late in the morning and hiked up to the upper basin. We hit some snow just after the lower meadow and then constant snow from Boulder Shelter. We were somewhat concerned what snow conditions would be like and if rock fall was going to be an issue...(more on that later). We set up camp, had dinner, and packed for the climb in the morning.
Got up to unexpectedly cold and frosty conditions. had breakfast and headed up the right side of the main drainage on hard snow...perfect for quick walking with crampons. got to the low spot in the ridge and descended onto the glacier on the other side as described in the climbers guide. The normal route up the "steep but short snow shoot" was capped by large cornices as seen in the pictures below. We proceeded around gilhoolie tower and up the back side of the mountain to the top. the route up was great. Views of the needles were great and views to the west were in and out of the clouds. Mystery was hidden After a short and mostly sunny break we headed back down...still using the crampons on the hard snow. upon reaching the ridge before heading back down into upper royal basin, we found the sun had created "less than ideal" snow conditions. they were bad enough to get out the rope and setup belays for the steep top section. After a tedious and unsettling descent, we reached camp, ate dinner, and went to bed.
We got up to warmer temps than Sat. morning, packed up camp and headed down to the car...
Joined: 13 Feb 2007 Posts: 5474 | TRs | Pics Location: Stuck in the middle
Mon Jul 05, 2010 8:51 pm
Fun to read about this area again.
We went directly for the summit ridge on the E side after getting to the top of the big snow field. We came back via Gilhooley Tower as we ran the ridge to Martin. Point is, I don't know why the "standard" route crosses the ridge and heads up via that notch by the Tower. It's by far steeper and harder than many of the routes possible just by sticking to the east side all the way up.
I just got back from deception yesterday. It's amazing how much less snow is there is now compared to your pictures.
I think I followed your tracks up the chute.
I didn't make the summit. I had no crampons and wasn't comfortable doing that last really steep part of the chute.
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