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Forum Index -> Trip Reports -> kyes peak - 2010-07-15
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iron
#1 on the DNCL



Joined: 10 Aug 2008
Posts: 4309 | TRs | Pics
Location: seattle
Post Fri Jul 16, 2010 12:34 am    kyes peak - 2010-07-15
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super short (sorry, need sleep and have to pack for ptarmigan traverse)

teamed up with hollywood and jb. followed smoot's route, which i believe is the standard route, up blanca lake trail, to virgin lake, up north-trending ridge, to last saddle before pt 6845, down towards blanca lake, traverse level, find bootpath, go up a little, find more snow, rising traverse, cross over broad, flat ridge, walk snow covered ridge, throw in some 2/3 class scrambling to get to summit.

awesome day. blanca lake is completely melted out. waterfall at inlet is flowing strong and loud. snow just before virgin lake in its usual holding areas that seem to always melt out late. i surmise trail down to blanca is snow-free, but did not verify. snow conditions generally good-to-excellent. no bugs during the day. some came out during evening hours. some biting, not all. they will be soon though. lots of water available on the route, just need to find snowmelt. found water on trail ~200ft before dropping into virgin lake basin.

general route description: if it feels wrong, it probably is. back track and find the right way up.


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"the trouble with quotes on the internet is that it's hard to determine whether or not they're genuine." - abraham lincoln
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beaudaddy
Coast To Cascades



Joined: 25 Feb 2010
Posts: 395 | TRs | Pics
Location: Tulalip, WA
Post Fri Jul 16, 2010 12:45 am   
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Amazing!!!  I want to do this one soon?  Great Pics.  How long did it take you guys from TH to Summit?  Just curious.  smile.gif

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http://www.facebook.com/BeauRamseyphotography
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Magellan
Brutally Handsome



Joined: 26 Jul 2006
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Location: Inexorable descent
Post Fri Jul 16, 2010 6:37 am   
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Very nice Iron!  up.gif  up.gif
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Rigafari
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Joined: 22 Sep 2005
Posts: 76 | TRs | Pics

Post Fri Jul 16, 2010 10:16 am   
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Nice...hiked this one the day before. It took a little over 8 hours round trip for us.
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wildernessed
viewbagger



Joined: 31 Oct 2004
Posts: 7164 | TRs | Pics
Location: Wenatchee
Post Fri Jul 16, 2010 10:20 am   
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up.gif Damn concise, great pics !

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I object to violence because when it appears to do good, the good is only temporary; the evil it does is permanent_Gandhi
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Hulksmash
Cleaning up.



Joined: 20 Apr 2008
Posts: 6821 | TRs | Pics
Location: Granite Falls
Post Fri Jul 16, 2010 10:29 am   
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Those pics sure make it hard to wait till August to go camp there. banghead.gif

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"Bears couldn't care less about us....we smell bad and don't taste too good. Bugs on the other hand see us as vending machines." - WetDog

Albuterol! it's the 11th essential
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Man-inna-hillz
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Joined: 25 Aug 2005
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Location: Berkeley, CA
Post Fri Jul 16, 2010 11:51 am   
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beaudaddy wrote:
Amazing!!!† I want to do this one soon?†  How long did it take you guys from TH to Summit?† Just curious.†

Also curious...I hear tell of epics.  Can a reasonably fit climber/scrambler do this from trailhad to trailhead in 14 hours or less?

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The God of language forgives all crimes.
-W.H. Auden
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iron
#1 on the DNCL



Joined: 10 Aug 2008
Posts: 4309 | TRs | Pics
Location: seattle
Post Fri Jul 16, 2010 12:51 pm   
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i assume a reasonably fit person could get it done in <14hrs. we took about 11, but had a leisurely pace and several breaks to enjoy the scenery.

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"the trouble with quotes on the internet is that it's hard to determine whether or not they're genuine." - abraham lincoln
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Backpacker Joe
NWH Joe-Bob



Joined: 16 Dec 2001
Posts: 21531 | TRs | Pics
Location: Cle Elum
Post Fri Jul 16, 2010 1:03 pm   
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Great work as usual.  Nice pics too.

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"I won't be wronged, I won't be insulted, and I won't be laid a hand on. I don't do these things to other people and I require the same from them."

óWayne's John Bernard Books in The Shootist
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Randy
Cube Rat



Joined: 18 Dec 2001
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Post Fri Jul 16, 2010 1:44 pm   
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Nice trip. One of my fav mountains.
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cartman
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Joined: 20 Feb 2007
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Location: Fremont
Post Fri Jul 16, 2010 5:28 pm   
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Way to rest up for the Ptarmigan.  Aren't you supposed to be gone for that already?

Nice pics.  We had a great time on Kyes end of August last year on the same route.  Now want to do it earlier via the Columbia Glacier.
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iron
#1 on the DNCL



Joined: 10 Aug 2008
Posts: 4309 | TRs | Pics
Location: seattle
Post Fri Jul 16, 2010 5:36 pm   
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what's rest? just because i'm on "summer vacation" doesn't mean i should be sitting inside smile.gif

the bad thing, although probably good, is that my boots failed on me during the trip, snapping off one of the shoelace loops. so, i'll be breaking in new boots on the PT. fun. it's a good thing there'll be a lot of snow to cool my aching, blistered, and battered feet  shakehead.gif

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"the trouble with quotes on the internet is that it's hard to determine whether or not they're genuine." - abraham lincoln
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seattlehikertoo
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Joined: 26 Jun 2008
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Location: Finding an alternative to Mailbox Pk
Post Fri Jul 16, 2010 8:46 pm   
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Nice job. You guys made it look like it was just a casual walk. Holy sh*t. My brother and I were going to attempt Kyes with a 4p start on Wed and catch the departing sun, but we ended up at Blanca, marveling at the scene. I'll post a report.
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peltoms
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Joined: 13 Jul 2006
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Location: Worcester MA
Post Sat Jul 17, 2010 4:07 am   
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Love the stylin shot, usually do not see a shot back along the flattish area of that ridge.  Having ascended that Monte Cristo Saddle 25 times yeah it connects to Columbia. Good luck on Ptarmigan, make sure to photographically admire the terminus of the Middle Cascade Glacier.  up.gif  smile.gif

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North Cascade Glacier Climate Project: http://www.nichols.edu/departments/glacier/
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Michael Lewis
Ribbit



Joined: 27 Apr 2009
Posts: 251 | TRs | Pics
Location: Lynnwood, WA (for now)
Post Sat Jul 17, 2010 12:16 pm   
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How was that bit at the end? Any moats or sno-bergschrunds to watch out for?

Anyways, it looks like there's a lot of alpine scenery to catch your attention up there. Good read and beautiful photos. up.gif
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