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beaudaddy Coast To Cascades
Joined: 25 Feb 2010 Posts: 401 | TRs | Pics Location: Tulalip, WA |
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beaudaddy
Coast To Cascades
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Tue Jul 27, 2010 7:16 pm
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Background-
This marks the first trip that Gimpilator and I have done together. We met on the Perry Creek Trailhead this last February for the first time. I had finished Stillaguamish Peak and he was just heading up Mt Forgotten. In meeting each other in person, we discovered that we both were members of Summitpost.org. This started off comments back and forth over photos and trip reports. The timing worked out just right and Gimpilator planned a trip for us to climb Mt Larrabee (7,861’) on Sunday July 25th.
Brief Plan-
Our plan was to meet Saturday evening at the Yellow Aster Butte Trailhead. This is found just off of the Mt Baker Highway 542. Even though Gimpilator’s Suzuki Bandit has 1,200cc of muscle, it wouldn’t be a good match for the rugged road that climbs up to Twin Lakes at (5,200’). So I planned to taxi him up the last couple miles. We planned to bivy at the lakes for the night and hit the trail early Sunday morning for the southwest gully ascent to Mt Larrabee. A possible Winchester Mountain (6,521’) summit was thrown into the plans for an added bonus.
Rugged, Red Larrabee has been on Gimpilator’s list of summits to climb for some time now. His passion for this summit has been alive far beyond our time knowing each other. I could hear the stoke in his voice just talking about this state border massive.
Day 1-
I headed up the Twin Lakes road and meet Gimplilator around 7:30pm. He parked his bike just below the Y.A.B.T.H. and piled his sweaty gear in my lifted truck. He had just spent the last night on Exelsior Peak (5,712’) and then battled the sketchy summit block of Church Mountain (6,315’) that afternoon. He had already made good use of the weekend so far and had stories to tell. We followed the steep road switch backing tightly until we reached the lakes. The lakes were snowed in, so we drove about 30’ onto the snow until finding a great parking spot. It was about 8pm now and Gimp looked over to me and said, “Let’s head up Winchester Mountain real quick so we can check out our route on Larrabee for tomorrow.” I wasn’t sure if he was serious at first, but after seeing the mountain man in his eyes I said, “Should I take my crampons?”
We hoped out, threw on some gear and headed up.
Gimpilator looking up. Mt Baker on the horizon Mt Baker Goats, Shuksan and Baker
We made great time until we hit some super steep snow traverses on pretty solid snow. Gimp kicked in some quick steps and I followed right behind.
Steep snow and nice colors East and West Goat, with Shuksan in the middle Mt Baker
It was amazing how quickly the views grew with such little effort.
Nothing wrong with that right there Gimpilator glowing as he looks toward the summit of Winchester Looking South
We were trying to catch the sunset, but it started to happen before we reached the summit. The steep snow really slowed us down as we made sure to get good purchase with our axes. After a couple small snowfields we soon were to a large moat on steep snow, with a rocky ridge above. We navigated this by dropping into its firm belly while straddling snow and rock. We did this for about 30’until Gimp found a line to climb up the rock to gain the ridge. That was pretty much the crux of the whole evening’s shindig. We crossed another snowfield and by this time the sun had set for the evening.
Tomyhoi Peak at sunset Gimp Checking out our route for the morning on Larrabee. American Border Peak at dusk Mt Larrabee and A.B.P
Its light was replaced with a glorious full moon and rich colors still lingering around. It was a breathtaking affair. We finally got to the lookout around 9:30pm or so.
Gimpilator standing next to the Winchester Mountain lookout after sundown
There was still sufficient light from the evening colors and full moon to enjoy killer views.
After taking it all in, we headed back down to camp. If there wasn’t such steep snow, you could almost go down under the luminosity of the moon. Oh, the crux again was the gnarly moat, now in the murky light.
Gimp testing his ninza skills more ninja skills
We got back to camp around 10:30pm.
That Night-
I decided to sleep in my bag in the bed of my truck. I gave Gimpilator the offer to bivy on the bed of my truck, but he chose the snowfield instead. I guess he was too hot the night before on Exelsior, so he had a different plan. We got our packs ready for the morning and Gimp hit the sack and I cooked some late dinner. Soon, I too was clocked out for the night. The moon was high, which lighted up the whole twin lakes basin. It almost felt like taking a nap during the day, without the sunscreen or lawn chair of course.
2:30AM. This time came quick with the sound of a truck pulling into camp. Not only did it pull into camp, but it started to back up a snow covered hill punching the gas. They worked on spinning tires at a high rpm for a couple minutes as I sat up in my bag watching. They then parked the rig and it just sat for awhile. Kind of hard to sleep after that!!! I laid back down and heard them get out and walk down to the lake. All of a sudden, “BOOM!!!” Shots Fired. I reached for my knife and then remembered the old saying, “Don’t bring a knife to a gun fight.” I peaked above the bed of my truck, but couldn’t see the shooter. I looked over about a 100’ where Gimp was sleeping; his head was popped up looking around. I sunk down in my bag and just listened. Two more shoots fired and it was silent. I never slept well for the rest of the night. In the morning, there was no sign of these rabble rousers.
Day 2-
First light looking toward Pocket Peak and the Skagway Pass On of the Twin Lakes early in the morning Starting out. Pocket Peak on the horizon.
We got up at 6:30am and headed down the trail a bit after 7. We cut between the lakes and headed up the Winchester Route. Soon we were to the junction to high pass. We hung a right there and trotted along. We came around the corner and saw our first views of Mt Larrabee and The Pleiades.
Gimpilator checking out The Pleiades Gimpilator traversing snow. Mt Larrabee and The Pleiades on the horizon.
We traversed a couple snow fields and noticed that someone had been up there within the last couple days. We studied our route as we went. Getting to High Pass we lost some elevation until we were just below Low Pass. This is where it switchbacks up to about 5,600’ at Low Pass. There was a large snow headwall that ran about 100’.
Large Headwall at Low Pass
We stayed to the right of this and made our way to High Pass(6,000'). Here we ran into two ladies who camped that night. Their destination was High Pass and told us a group of 7 climbers summited Larrabee the day before.
Looking south from above High Pass Checking out a good route
We continued and dropped into the large snow filled bowl. Later in the summer this is filled with nasty scree and talus. We lucked out and traversed the great snow until it was a vertical snow climb for a couple hundred feet. The top had a rim, which we were careful to climb out of. Once on this ridge high above the snow filled bowl we got to our first decision.
There were two immediate gully options. One to the left which looked narrow and solid. The one to the right was wider, but very loose rock. We choose the gully to the left. We could only see maybe 75’ up each gully, so we went off of the rock conditions we could see. They both went in the direction to the summit. The gully to the left went good for awhile. Soon we became pretty exposed on a solid class 3 scramble. The rock turned into very loose and unstable garbage. Large rocks that appeared to be solid, would pull out very easily. This brought on danger for the climber below and obviously the climber pulling himself up. We took our time to navigate the rocks and found some decent lines here and there. We got to one section that was sketchy, exposed and required a very physical and mental move. Gimp was ahead of me and he cliffed out to the left. I tried this sketchy move to the right, knowing that right above it was better ground. I made the move and Gimp followed.
First part of the Chimney section before it became technical Gimp holding on high up on Larrabee
Once we were above, we decided this is not were we would be descending down. The rest of the climb was on very loose red rocks. It sounded like broken glass.
Very steep, loose rock Steep, Loose Rock A sea of down sloping garbage
We then traversed to the left and found a nice snow gully. We switch backed this steep gully for hundreds of feet until it petered out.
Steep Snow
Then it was back on the nasty rock. This mountain is extremely dangerous if there are climbers above you. It does not matter how careful you are, large rocks will fall down. I would not attempt this without a helmet, and I would be very questionable to be far below another climbing party. Soon we found a faint boot path. The only reason we found this was a couple cairns that had been built along the way. We followed this faint path, more like some dust on the rocks. One bonus in all the crummy rock, was the beautiful flowers everywhere.
Flower Garden In The Rocks Looking out at Baker Phlox and Paintbrush
Soon we could taste the summit. We became really excited for all the work that went into the climb. It was just before noon when we made it to the top. There is an east and west summit. The east summit is maybe 2 feet higher and is more flat. This is where we had lunch. Both summit have different views. Wow, and the views were crazy. It was amazing to be standing at the very end of the Cascade Mountain Range. You could see the Fraser River Valley separating the ranges. Views into Canada were great, along with the views into the North Cascades.
Gimpilator on the east summit Gimpilator on the west summit with Tomyhoi Peak (7,451') Gimpilator on the East summit Gimpilator on the west summit. Canadian Border and American Border Peaks
Looking north we noticed the large Glacier field a couple thousand feet below.
Glacier crevasses on the north side of Larrabee Glacier crevasses on the north side of Larrabee
Everywhere we looked offered bigtime views.
Mt Baker, Tomyhoi Lake and Peak Canadian Border and American Border Peaks
We took a short break and headed down.
Gimpilator Checking Out Shuksan The Pleiades (7,334') Slesse Mountain (7,850') Canadian Border and American Border Peaks
We followed the boot path along a ridge. This worked pretty well. The rock was still very unstable. We created many small rock slides going down, trying to be super careful. As we headed down, we found the gully we didn’t take on the way up. We tried this one out, and it was much safer. It still was a solid class 3 downclimb in spots, but a lot safer for us. If you’re into rock climbing, the other gully would be for you.
Gimpilator Down Climbing Gimpilator down climbing the grey vein More Down Climbing With Mt Baker
We made good time down. We got to the rim of the snow filled bowl and carefully climbed into it.
Gimp Dropping into the snow bowl Shuksan and Baker looking south Dropping into the snow bowl
Then we did a slow glissade into the snow bowl making sure to stay away from moats and exposed rocks.
The rest of the way was a pretty simple hike on a very hot summer day.
Awesome looking Pocket Peak (7,056) high above the Silesia Valley.
Gimpilator kept talking about this buffet in Bellingham. So the plan was for me to follow him into Bellingham and eat at this famous hole in the wall.
Gimpilator leading me to the killer Buffet.
Boy did it taste good after a great climb. Thanks Gimp for having me along. I can’t wait for what’s next.
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Gimpilator infinity/21M
Joined: 12 Oct 2006 Posts: 1684 | TRs | Pics Location: Edmonds, WA |
Beau, it was really a pleasure climbing with you and getting to know each other. You sure did an impressive job on the TR. Almost as good as the trip itself. Let's go for Sloan next time. What do you think?
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Magellan Brutally Handsome
Joined: 26 Jul 2006 Posts: 13116 | TRs | Pics Location: Inexorable descent |
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Magellan
Brutally Handsome
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Tue Jul 27, 2010 10:24 pm
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beaudaddy Coast To Cascades
Joined: 25 Feb 2010 Posts: 401 | TRs | Pics Location: Tulalip, WA |
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beaudaddy
Coast To Cascades
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Wed Jul 28, 2010 11:50 am
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Adam- I would love to do Sloan later this summer. Hip waders to cross the Sauk?
Thanks Magellan. The red rock was crap, but the payoffs were spectacular. Gimp had cell service, but I didn't. I have AT&T. It would be nice to know what provider he has so others can know they can call out in case of emergency. If you have no experience or climbing skills, this climb can be very dangerous.
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Eric Peak Geek
Joined: 21 Oct 2002 Posts: 2062 | TRs | Pics Location: In Travel Status |
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Eric
Peak Geek
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Wed Jul 28, 2010 1:21 pm
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Looks like a fun time guys. A little bit of choss is good for the soul.
I've spied both Larrabee and American Border from Winchester before and someday I'll have to make the trek over to each.
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Redwic Unlisted Free Agent
Joined: 23 Feb 2009 Posts: 3292 | TRs | Pics Location: Going to the Prom(inence) |
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Redwic
Unlisted Free Agent
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Wed Jul 28, 2010 2:36 pm
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Great job, you guys! I'm sorry I was not able to make it, but my optimum timeframe to do the Skamania CoHP conflicted with the timeframe of your plans. Next time, OK?
60 pounds lighter but not 60 points brighter.
60 pounds lighter but not 60 points brighter.
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RichP Member
Joined: 13 Jul 2006 Posts: 5633 | TRs | Pics Location: here |
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RichP
Member
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Wed Jul 28, 2010 6:29 pm
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That looks like spooky stuff to climb on.
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Magellan Brutally Handsome
Joined: 26 Jul 2006 Posts: 13116 | TRs | Pics Location: Inexorable descent |
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Magellan
Brutally Handsome
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Wed Jul 28, 2010 6:52 pm
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Quote: | Gimpilator kept talking about this buffet in Bellingham. |
I bet you two hungry 20-something climbers made them rethink their pricing!
I forgot to mention I was glad to hear you survived the drunken redneck asshat sanity assault at one am.
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iron Member
Joined: 10 Aug 2008 Posts: 6392 | TRs | Pics Location: southeast kootenays |
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iron
Member
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Wed Jul 28, 2010 10:07 pm
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long way to drive to shoot a gun...
how was the snow elevation on the southern slopes of nearby mountains (winchester, bump at high pass, larrabee, YAB, etc.)
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the Zachster Member
Joined: 17 Jan 2007 Posts: 4776 | TRs | Pics Location: dog training |
A pile of garbage indeed! Glad you had a safe and exciting trip. Beautiful photos!
"May I always be the kind of person my dog thinks I am"
"May I always be the kind of person my dog thinks I am"
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Malachai Constant Member
Joined: 13 Jan 2002 Posts: 16092 | TRs | Pics Location: Back Again Like A Bad Penny |
I think I know now why Larrabee is not climbed very often
"You do not laugh when you look at the mountains, or when you look at the sea." Lafcadio Hearn
"You do not laugh when you look at the mountains, or when you look at the sea." Lafcadio Hearn
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beaudaddy Coast To Cascades
Joined: 25 Feb 2010 Posts: 401 | TRs | Pics Location: Tulalip, WA |
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beaudaddy
Coast To Cascades
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Wed Jul 28, 2010 10:39 pm
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iron wrote: | long way to drive to shoot a gun...
how was the snow elevation on the southern slopes of nearby mountains (winchester, bump at high pass, larrabee, YAB, etc.) |
If you look at Gimpilators red line photo above you can see the southern face of Larrabee. That shot was taken at about 6,100' just above High Pass. Some gals were camped on the dry bump of HP. Once we climbed out of the large snow covered bowl it became dry. The only snow found were in the gully. The southwest ridge was dry. We were hoping that it had more snow because of how nasty that rock really is. In my mind I can see people turning back on that summit if they didn't find the correct route or if they weren't super eager to reach it.
Winchester had large patchy southern snowfields above 5,800'. I would guess in spots like gullys, bowls and areas that collect snow will still be around for a bit. I didn't get a good look at Yellow Aster's southern face, but I would figure it would follow the same trend. That 10' tall snow headwall at Low Pass was sure a surprise for it almost being August.
Hope that's what your looking for Iron. The photos above should give a good idea on snow elevations above 5,200' (which is the twin lakes elevation).
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beaudaddy Coast To Cascades
Joined: 25 Feb 2010 Posts: 401 | TRs | Pics Location: Tulalip, WA |
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beaudaddy
Coast To Cascades
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Wed Jul 28, 2010 10:59 pm
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Matt Tea, Earl Grey, Hot
Joined: 30 Jan 2007 Posts: 4307 | TRs | Pics Location: Shoreline |
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Matt
Tea, Earl Grey, Hot
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Wed Jul 28, 2010 11:37 pm
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Nice trip.
Yeah, Larrabee is a loose pile of rock, but it's a fun peak when you're careful. Your photo seems to show a lot more snow than usual for this time of year.
I like your late evening ascent of Winchester with the afterglow of the sunset and the moonlight.
“As beacons mountains burned at evening.” J.R.R. Tolkien
“As beacons mountains burned at evening.” J.R.R. Tolkien
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beaudaddy Coast To Cascades
Joined: 25 Feb 2010 Posts: 401 | TRs | Pics Location: Tulalip, WA |
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beaudaddy
Coast To Cascades
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Thu Jul 29, 2010 12:40 pm
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Hey, thanks for the comment Matt. We all kind of shake our heads anout how loose that rock is up there, but all in all it was my favorite summit so far this year.
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