Forum Index > Trip Reports > Mt. Terror–East Ridge (East Edge of Southeast Face)-Updated
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Dave Creeden
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Joined: 04 Sep 2007
Posts: 98 | TRs | Pics
Dave Creeden
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PostFri Aug 06, 2010 6:29 am 
July 30th thru August 1st, 2010 July 30th Jeff R, Paul K and I began our approach a little before 10 AM under clear skies. I haven’t been into the Pickets via the Goodell Creek approach and the Barrier since 1998. During the intervening years, I had heard that some work had been done to ease the burden of this vigorous approach. I was pleasantly surprised at the well trodden climber’s path from the end of the old logging road to the Terror Creek crossing. We encountered a threesome along the way, whose objectives were Terror via the west ridge along with the Chopping Block during their 4-day trip. At Terror Creek we found a dam of debris along with a thick log to shimmy across the torrent.
TerrorCreekCrossing2
TerrorCreekCrossing2
We then shifted into compound low to grind the approximately 1,600 feet to the crest of Barrier. Again I was taken aback by the well defined footpath for this section of the approach which didn’t exist a dozen years before. Along the crest of the Barrier a meandering path was followed through bands of timber and brush before breaking out into the open at about 5,500 ft, at which point I made a bee-line for the saddle at the head of Stump Hollow.
McMillanSpires
McMillanSpires
Along the way I scoped out sources of water amongst the snow covered slabs. Upon arriving at ridge next to the Chopping Block around 5:45 PM, I meet Julia and Julian who had arrived earlier in the day. I renewed acquaintances with Julian, with whom I had climbed North Hozomeen in 2006. They were going to make an attempt of Terror via the Stoddard Route, as a day climb the next day. Paul and Jeff arrived around 7:15 PM and the other group of three arrived after 8 PM.
ChoppingBlock
ChoppingBlock
Triumph
Triumph
July 31st We decided to bring just two backpacks and the third person would carry the rope, picket and hardware, that way the lead climber wouldn’t have to carry a back pack. The snow in Crescent Creek was firm, necessitating the use of crampons for the approach. There were broken clouds, with a haze on the eastern horizon from the ragging forest fire near Stehekin. A narrow snow finger underneath the south side of Terror made the approach to the reach the ridge between Degenhardt and Terror easier than scrambling scree covered slabs.
Terror
Terror
Upon arriving at the ridge, I contoured around the northeast side of a pinnacle, then up a 15 ft class 3 gully to a bench which continued another 60 feet or so the base of the east face of Terror. A 10 foot rock pedestal lay beneath a pair of cracks which ascended nearly vertically terrain for about 40 feet at which point it laid back slightly. I enjoyed the warmth of the morning sun as I put on my harness and rock shoes while waiting for Jeff and Paul to arrive. I went around the left side of the pedestal, which had less loose rock. I then back stepped onto the top of the pedestal then stemmed onto the face. I went directly up the cracks using arm bars and hand jams in the wider left crack, while the narrow right crack accepted only finger holds. I then veered rightward onto the face, terminating the pitch after about 130 feet at a small ledge beneath another pair of cracks that I used to secure an anchor. The plan was for the second climber to ascend the pitch with a backpack using a prussik and for the third person to climb with a pack under belay. First Jeff attempted the pitch, but couldn’t put together the moves to get the thru the initial 40 feet of steep terrain. Paul and Jeff discussed their options and then Paul climbed the route without a pack. While all of this was going on it rained and hailed briefly. Once Paul arrived at the anchor we discussed our options, which boiled down to Jeff putting all of our boots, ice axes and crampons into a single pack and hauling it up the pitch. Then Jeff would follow under belay. Another option was to immediately rappel the route, then climb Terror via the west ridge. However the east face lacked natural rap anchors which meant we would have to sacrifice pro. The third option was that Paul and I would complete the route, descend the west ridge to the notch, where we would rig a line for Jeff to use to climb out of notch in order to ascent the west ridge. In the process Jeff would haul our boots, ice axes and crampons to the west notch. After a lengthy discussion we decided on the third option. From the belay anchor I traversed immediately to the right for 30 feet to check out a minor ridgeline. This feature was the intersection of the southeast and the northeast faces of Terror which upon reaching offered me a spectacular view of the 2,000 foot plus descent into the headwaters of McMillan Creek. I then zigged back and above the belay anchor gaining a ledge system, which led me to steeper terrain. From here I ascended up a 20 foot section, requiring awkward moves in which a large wingspan proved to be advantageous. At which point the climbing eased into class 4 ledges. I found a nice chock stone to secure an anchor beneath a 30 foot vertical wall. At this point the heavens opened up, which was unfortunate for Paul. He flailed away at the awkward 20 foot section for 10 or 15 minutes taking a couple of whippers. Eventually he staggered up to me, totally fried. From here I led off to the left on a nice ledge which took me into blocky class 4 climbing, then I took a sharp right turn. By gazing across the away to Degenhardt and by looking at the features in front of me, everything indicated that we were nearing the culmination of the ascent. To my left a ledge system led underneath a slab which led to the crown of a ridge. Directly in front of me a 3 foot ledge led to the corner of the ridgeline, directly above the belay anchor. Because of the serendipitous route I had taken there was a lot of rope drag and I wanted the belay anchor close me for this crux section, so I broke this pitch off short. Furthermore this location offered some relative protection from the strong winds and the rainfall. I reeled in Paul, and then I checked out the left hand option which under the current conditions was ridiculous. I opted for the narrow exposed ledge. I had already made up my mind that I wasn’t going to be too interested in style points to get through this next section. I crawled on my hands and knees up this ledge, terminating at the junction of the southeast and northeast faces. As I stood up, I was staggered by the combination of exposure and wind driven rain. I moved back to the left to a narrow aręte whose crown was angled at about 30 degrees. I ventured a look around and over the aręte to check out the possibilities. There was a narrow crack on the left hand side of the aręte about a foot below the crown which offered a place for pro. I managed to find two small foot placements to straddle the aręte to initiate my cheval movements. I managed to inch my way up with a series of short hops finally stretching to reach a secure hand hold with my right hand as I was blasted in the face by rain. At this point I felt secure enough to swing my right leg over the aręte a complete a series of moves to attain the blocky ridge line. Thirty feet ahead the summit block appeared. I swung around the right side of the block and confirmed that there was nothing higher to west. I then retreated to the east side of the summit block and dropped down onto a ledge between to two large blocks which offered me relative protection from the elements as I belayed Paul. While Paul was climbing the rained ceased and wind eased. At this point I heard this weird humming sound, which I thought was the wind howling through the rocks. Then it dawned on me that it wasn’t the wind, but static electricity. hairy.gif I didn’t have the heart to say anything to Paul, as he had enough on his hands. Once Paul reached me, we just kept on going down the west side under running belay, not even bothering to enjoy the summit. Soon we reached a rap anchor at the top of some wet slaps, which we took advantage of. From there we down climbed until reached the first of two rap anchors near the notch. Meanwhile Jeff had played the role of porter, hauling the two packs to the base of the couloir for the west notch. Then he hauled one pack to the notch with the essential group gear. He was waiting patiently at the notch, drenched and shivering from the wind. Under these conditions Jeff didn’t even raise of the possibility of climbing the west ridge. Paul and I completed the two raps then laced up our boots and strapped on our crampons. We exited the couloir then took a break to put on more clothing and pound down some food and water. We arrived back at our camp just before 6 PM. Julian and Julia were tucked away in their tent. In a way they were fortunate, in that they had not been able to clear the Himmelhorn-Ottohorn notch. If they had, they would have been in an even more vulnerable spot on the Stoddard route than we had been on the east ridge. August 1st We had decided the night before to not make an attempt on the Chopping Block. But when we awoke the weather made the decision even easier- it was socked in. We joined forces with Julia and Julian for the exit, in which we all got a bath from wet brush. Here is a link to Paul's TR which includes plenty of photos. http://www.summitpost.org/trip-report/646049/east-ridge-se-face-in-the-rain.html PS Special thanks to Jeff for hauling the backpacks on summit day. Equipment: 60m rope, five Camalots ( 0.5 thru 3); set of 10 wired rocks, crampons, ice axe and one picket (which we didn’t use).

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dunker53
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Joined: 03 Oct 2008
Posts: 17 | TRs | Pics
Location: Renton
dunker53
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PostFri Aug 06, 2010 7:58 am 
Terror Peak - East Ridge
Kudos for a difficult ascent under really adverse conditions. And nothing quite as 'motivating' as that 'buzzing sound' coming from a summit block. It sounds like your line was a significant variation on the original FA of the east ridge.

old and very slow
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Matt
Tea, Earl Grey, Hot



Joined: 30 Jan 2007
Posts: 4307 | TRs | Pics
Location: Shoreline
Matt
Tea, Earl Grey, Hot
PostFri Aug 06, 2010 10:33 pm 
You went up the east face of Terror?!!! When we did Degenhardt, we looked up at that east face from the gap in between and wondered what kind of crazy climbers would try that route, though I'd guess you were a bit around the corner from the face. And you did it in rain and hail. Amazing. I hope one of you will be able to post some photos. Creeden wrote: "in which a large wingspan proved to be advantageous." That's a perfect description of Dave's exceptional reach.

“As beacons mountains burned at evening.” J.R.R. Tolkien
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puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks



Joined: 13 Feb 2007
Posts: 7216 | TRs | Pics
Location: Stuck in the middle
puzzlr
Mid Fork Rocks
PostSat Aug 07, 2010 11:20 am 
Wow, what a climb. Thanks for writing it up for more to enjoy.

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