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jim_PDX Member
Joined: 15 Jul 2009 Posts: 22 | TRs | Pics
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jim_PDX
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Sun Aug 15, 2010 10:47 pm
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In late July, I went on a five-day walk-about in the Bogachiel River valley in the Olympics. Upon my return my 20 year old son expressed interest in joining me on my next backpacking trip. We talked about going back to the Olympics but I have wanted to explore the North Cascades NP for a while. After checking the weather forecasts for both areas, a quick call to the ranger station on the bug situation (last year horrible, this year, not nearly as bad) we settled on going somewhere that offered the chance to see grizzly bears.
We left Portland last Tuesday at 8 AM under overcast skies and rolled into Glacier outside of Mt Baker around 1 PM. We stopped at the Glacier Public Service Center and obtained our Backcountry Use Permit and the latest intel for the Hannegan Pass/Copper Ridge/Chilliwack River Loop. The report was about two weeks old and said that there was plenty of snow on the ridge and a thigh deep river crossing just north of Indian Camp. The lookout on top of Copper Ridge was not manned but a ranger was hiking in the next day.
The helpful ranger at the Service Center said that there were three options for lunch in Glacier, a new pizza place, Milano’s Restaurant & Deli and Grahams Restaurant. We settled on Graham’s where the cast and crew from the 1935 Call of the Wild movie stayed (great burgers and a fun menu to read thru).
Grahams Restaurant
After lunch we headed for the Hannegan trailhead, arriving about 30 minutes later.
We started up the trail around 3 PM and arrived at Hannegan camp, about a mile shy of the pass around 5:30 PM. At the stream crossing before entering the camp area, a couple was filling up their water bottles and told us that they were heading to US Cabin for the night, another 6 miles. We decided to declare victory for the night and pitch our tent at Hannegan instead of trying to push on up to Egg Lake camp, on the ridge and another 4.5 miles and 2,200 ft in elevation gain. I figured a good nights sleep would be needed if we intended to make it to Copper Lake the next night, about 7 miles and 3,300 ft in elevation gain from Hannegan camp.
Ruth Creek area Ruth Creek area View Wednesday morning from our campsite
We awoke Wednesday morning to clear sunny skies and after a quick breakfast started up the trail to Hannegan Pass (5,066 ft). At Boundary Camp the trail splits and we began our ascent onto Copper Ridge. We crossed several patches of snow that had softened sufficiently in the sun so as to not be an issue.
Between Hannegan Pass and Boundary Camp Copper Ridge
We took a break and filled up on water near Silesia camp from melting snow and spotted a very large bear, brown in color, with two small cubs about 300 meters ahead of us. We watched them for about 30 minutes as they crossed over the ridge and dropped into the Egg Lake basin. A couple that was day hiking from their base camp at Hannegan joined us. One of them had spent three seasons volunteering with bear researchers and thought that we might be looking at a momma grizzly based on how the bear was moving, her size and shape. We couldn’t discern the telltale hump between the shoulders, the distance was a bit too much and no one was interested in getting any closer so we can’t say for certain that they were grizzlies or black bears but nonetheless, fun to watch.
Silesia Camp Black bear or grizzly, we weren't sure. Mamma bear was big and brown, cubs were tiny and black
We pushed on to the lookout and had a nice break and enjoyed fantastic views before moving on to Copper Lake arriving late in the day and setting up camp for the night. There are three sites at the lake and two were already occupied. The mosquitoes and flies were out and about but not horrible. After dinner and watching the alpenglow on the mountains across the valley, we napped before getting up at 10 PM to watch for some Perseid meteors. 30 minutes later and having spotted a dozen or so shooting stars and a couple of satellites, we called it a night. Thursday was going to be a long day as we dropped into the Chilliwack River valley. Our destination was US Cabin camp, 13 miles away.
Copper Mtn lookout View from Copper Ridge View from Copper Ridge Looking east from the ridge Matt on Copper Ridge Copper Mtn Lookout Copper Mtn lookout outhouse Matt with Copper Lake below Copper Lake Copper Lake in the evening Indian Mtn from Copper Lake
The trail out of Copper Lake continues north along the ridge for about three miles before dropping to the river valley below. The trail is overgrown in places and we had to do some bushwhacking a few times to regain the trail. Along the way we did come across a big pile of cougar scat. Big as in the cat must have had a very large recent furry meal. It appeared fairly fresh. We considered that the cat was plenty full and sleeping off its large meal as we beat feet towards the ford sites on the Chilliwack River and Indian Creek below us.
We spotted five sockeye salmon at the Indian Creek ford site and numerous bear prints in the mud on the far bank. We crossed bare foot with the water depth coming up to mid thigh at the deepest point. The river rocks were a tad painful on the sore feet but not nearly as painful as the ice cold water.
5 sockeye salmon swam in front of me as I crossed
After a short break refilling our water bottles we continued towards US Cabin camp. We arrived 10 hours after setting out from Copper Lake to find that we had the entire site to ourselves. We had not seen anyone all day. We built a fire to help keep the mosquitoes at bay and enjoyed our bug free dinner (campfires are not allowed at Hannegan or any of the camps along the ridge).
Dry feet creek crossing @ Indian Creek Indian Creek Crossing the Chilliwack River Busy beavers
Friday morning found us both looking forward to getting back to the trailhead and lunch at Grahams in Glacier. But first, we had about a six-mile climb out of the valley back to Hannegan Pass. On the way out we passed a lone hiker who was also doing the loop, but counter-clock wise. We let them know about the cougar and bear signs and continued on our way.
After a quick snack at Hannegan Pass we hiked the final four miles out to the trailhead and 45 minutes later we were enjoying cold beers, burgers and fish tacos at Grahams Restaurant in Glacier before driving back to Portland.
Ruth Creek looking northeast
My son and I both agree that we want to go back to the North Cascades. Amazing country up there and so much to see and explore.
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fourteen410 Member
Joined: 23 May 2008 Posts: 2622 | TRs | Pics
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that Chilliwack River crossing looks pretty epic.
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