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Arete
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Joined: 29 Oct 2006
Posts: 137 | TRs | Pics
Location: Bothell, WA
Arete
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PostFri Aug 13, 2010 2:59 pm 
To follow up some shorter climbs we’ve been doing in the Rainy Pass / Methow Valley area (Sherman Pk, Whistler Mtn), we decided to spend a FULL day on a climb that we had heard was a long hike with a spectacular view on the summit – Crater Mountain. Crater has had two lookouts on it (both gone now) – one on the main summit (8,128 ft) and one on the east summit (7,054 ft). Our climbing team (3 adults, 2 kids and one mountain dog) met at the Canyon Creek trailhead on Highway 20 (between mileposts 141 and 142) at the brisk morning hour of 6 AM. We knew this would be a long day and that early rendezvous turned out to be perfect in the end. Upon packing up and setting our altimeters for 1900 feet I was accused of selecting the lowest possible trailhead for a peak on the North Cascades Hwy (not true, but after climbing peak from around Rainy Pass at 4800 it felt like it). The weather had been clear on our drive from the Methow over Rainy Pass, but once we descended down into the Granite Creek valley, we dropped below some west-side low morning clouds. We thought that would be welcome for the steep morning climb up to Crater Lake, but they also served to humidify the area.
Route up Crater Mountain
Route up Crater Mountain
We started a little before 7:00. The trail starts out by going up along Granite Creek for a hundred yards to a huge new bridge, then back downstream for the same distance on the east side to a one-log bridge crossing Canyon Creek at the site of the broken down guard station. Once across the bridge, the trail splits (beware – there are no signs): the left fork goes down along Ruby Creek to the west while the right fork is trail 738 up to Jackita Ridge and Crater Lake. We turned right and signed in at the trail register that we came upon in just a few minutes. After just 5 minutes of leg-stretching low gradients, the trail starts to climb seriously. It goes up 3400 feet in 3.9 miles to the trail junction where you head off to Crater Lake – essentially the equivalent of Mount Si as a morning warm-up. The trail itself is an extremely well graded and pleasant tread, but the combination of steepness and humidity was taxing. We could only hope that our trail of sweat would not erode the trail too much. rolleyes.gif
Bridge across Canyon Creek at Guard Station
Bridge across Canyon Creek at Guard Station
Steep forest trail up the slopes above Canyon Creek
Steep forest trail up the slopes above Canyon Creek
Lichen on trees
Lichen on trees
At about 2 miles we reached the Wilderness Boundary. There were at least 3-4 good places for water along the first 4 miles of the climb. At about 3.5 miles is a very nice mossy overlook that makes a nice rest stop (~5000 ft). Just above 5200 feet we came to a stream crossing with a trail junction – once again unmarked (no signs). The trail to the right (across the stream) is the continuation of trail 738 to McMillan Park and Jackita Ridge. We took the left trail (#746) to Crater Lake (5800 ft). This trail is brushy with many logs down across the tread, making for what felt to be a strenuous 1.3 miles (500-feet elevation gain). There is a nice campsite along the outlet stream just 3 minutes before the lake. Just as you approach the lake there is a carin marking a trail junction where the trail to the east summit of Crater takes off. But we wanted to go to the main summit so we continued on to the lake. It took us a little under 4 hours to reach the lake from the car (5.1 miles; 3900 ft elevation gain). The lake itself is very shallow and small (we dubbed it Crater Puddle), but it provided a nice resting spot – for a full hour – as we lounged and wrung the buckets of sweat out of our clothes. agree.gif
Crater Puddle (Lake) at 5800 ft with Crater Mtn above
Crater Puddle (Lake) at 5800 ft with Crater Mtn above
White bog orchid at Crater Lake
White bog orchid at Crater Lake
Playing at Crater Lake
Playing at Crater Lake
The summit still loomed 2.5 miles and 2300 ft above so at noon we started up again. The trail heads west, switchbacking up onto a rib SW of the lake and eventually climbing up onto the south ridge of Crater Mtn itself.
South ridge of Crater from the lake. Trail goes up left edge of photo to gain ridge
South ridge of Crater from the lake. Trail goes up left edge of photo to gain ridge
Climbing onto the south ridge
Climbing onto the south ridge
The south ridge is a classic alpine / subalpine mosaic with heather meadows dotted by clumps of alpine larch, subalpine fir, and Englemann spruce. It is a true delight to walk, with 270 degree views of the North Cascades. smile.gif As we rose higher we thankfully began to catch a breeze that helped relieve the heat (the lake is the last water on this climb and there were only a few snow patches). As we approached the upper rock pyramid of Crater Mtn at about 7200 ft the trail began to become more engineered, with large rock walls.
Looking up the south ridge of Crater from about 6900 ft
Looking up the south ridge of Crater from about 6900 ft
White heather meadows on the south ridge
White heather meadows on the south ridge
Looking up the south ridge (from about 7200 ft) on Crater
Looking up the south ridge (from about 7200 ft) on Crater
Hiking up the south ridge trail
Hiking up the south ridge trail
Engineered trail high on the southy ridge (below the rock scramble)
Engineered trail high on the southy ridge (below the rock scramble)
Coming up the engineered switchbacks on the south ridge
Coming up the engineered switchbacks on the south ridge
At about 7500 ft the trail stops switchbacking up the south ridge and turns to the left, crossing the SW face on exposed tread / gravel-covered ledges. After about 100 yards, a prominent white rock dike is crossed. Continuing across the face is an obvious ledge system with rock carins. We followed this, but later on (on the descent) we noticed that there were markers (yellow painted circles with crosses on the rock – now becoming pretty faded in many places) leading straight up at that dike area rather than traversing. It looks easy and solid to go up there, but the route we took (marked with carins) worked fine as well. Both routes converge in about 100 - 150 ft elevation.
Getting ready to start the class 3 scramble section
Getting ready to start the class 3 scramble section
Crater16
Crater16
We continued from the dike on a traverse around the corner for another 30-40 yards where a dirty class 2 gully led upward to the top of a small rib. This area had considerable exposure. From the top of that rib we reached a section we dubbed the “ramp” – nice class 3 climbing up an angled rib just right of a loose corner that took us up to rejoin the original summit route. From that point it is another 200 feet (elevation) of class 3 scrambling, zig-zagging up ledges following paint marks and carins (follow carefully – some of the tempting ledges lead one into more difficult climbing). We climbed with the kids and dog each roped to one adult with a short rope, with helmets for the kids (in retrospect, it would have been good for everyone to have a helmet). The climbing was never sustained enough in difficulty to feel the need for a belay, but the exposure and crumbliness of the rock made a rope necessary for us.
Scrambling class 3 rock on Crater
Scrambling class 3 rock on Crater
Pointing out the route
Pointing out the route
Scrambling class 3 rock on Crater with some exposure
Scrambling class 3 rock on Crater with some exposure
Aidan climbing the class 3 section
Aidan climbing the class 3 section
Scrambling class 3 rock on Crater
Scrambling class 3 rock on Crater
At about 7900 feet we reached the top of the scramble and came onto a plateau where the trail once more appeared in the scree and heather fields to the true summit (7.5 miles and 6300 ft elevation gain from the car).
The true summit from the top of the rock scramble
The true summit from the top of the rock scramble
Heading to the true summit
Heading to the true summit
Little remained of the lookout. The view was spectacular in all directions and some of the alpine plants were in full bloom on top. We looked down the NW side toward Jack Mountain and saw the Jerry Lakes – a spectacular set of alpine lakes set in a series of criques. Has anyone been there? The breeze had picked up and occasional clouds swirled about the top while we enjoyed almost an hour on top.
Jack Mountain
Jack Mountain
H the climbing dog on the summit
H the climbing dog on the summit
5/6 of the climbing team
5/6 of the climbing team
Jerry Lakes on the side of Jack Mountain
Jerry Lakes on the side of Jack Mountain
Saxifrage and Jack Mountain
Saxifrage and Jack Mountain
Silky Phacelia
Silky Phacelia
Moss campion in bloom
Moss campion in bloom
Finally, at 3:30, we knew that we had to start down – with a long steep way to go before we would get back to the car. We down climbed the class 3 scramble section very carefully, moving one pair at a time through a number of the loose gullies. There could be considerable danger from rockfall with multiple parties on that section. Once down that part and relieved of harnesses, ropes, and helmets the trail down the south ridge in late afternoon light was a scenic delight. We all wished that we had more time up there on the south ridge meadows.
Descending from the summit in some passing clouds
Descending from the summit in some passing clouds
Descending the rock scramble
Descending the rock scramble
Descending the "step-around ledge"
Descending the "step-around ledge"
Descending the ramp
Descending the ramp
Descending the ramp
Descending the ramp
Recrossing the white dike on the descent - traversing to the south ridge
Recrossing the white dike on the descent - traversing to the south ridge
Glad to be done with the rock scrambling!
Glad to be done with the rock scrambling!
Starting down the south ridge of Crater
Starting down the south ridge of Crater
Heather meadows on the south ridge of Crater
Heather meadows on the south ridge of Crater
Heather meadows on the south ridge of Crater
Heather meadows on the south ridge of Crater
Looking up the Granite Creek valley and Highway 20 from high on Crater Mountain
Looking up the Granite Creek valley and Highway 20 from high on Crater Mountain
We reached the lake at 5:00 and ate, drank, and generally rested for another hour before leaving at 6:00. The trail down to the car went quite quickly (for us), as it was well graded and kind to people with flaky ankles (relatively few rocky sections). A mother and two bear cubs were encountered from a distance about two-thirds of the way down in a drainage area but we were well-warned by our trusty mountain dog. up.gif We arrived back at the car at 8:30. The last couple of mileswere a classic "zombie stroll" - carefully controlled fall down the trail aided by stout trekking poles. We were bushed. This is a great, scenic day hike / climb but many of us felt an extra day would be nice to give us more time to enjoy the spectacular terrain and views of the south ridge and summit. And it would allow a visit to the east summit as well. We just need to find someone to carry our overnight packs up to the lake. wink.gif Takers? tongue.gif Stats: 15 miles RT; 6300 feet elevation gain; 7.5 hours up (inlcuding breaks), 1 hour on top, 5 hours down (including breaks).

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Magellan
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Magellan
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PostSat Aug 14, 2010 9:47 am 
Very nice. up.gif Heading there tonight for an early morning start.

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Arete
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Location: Bothell, WA
Arete
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PostSat Aug 14, 2010 12:09 pm 
Magellan wrote:
Very nice. up.gif Heading there tonight for an early morning start.
That's great Magellan! Have a great day up there smile.gif

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seawallrunner
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seawallrunner
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PostSun Aug 15, 2010 10:49 am 
what a beautiful trip report - what a great trip with your kids too. Congrats to everyone! I would love to go to the Jerry lakes area - that place has been calling my name for a long time.

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Eric
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Eric
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PostSun Aug 15, 2010 11:33 am 
Hope you guys got an really really early start. That's 6300 feet of gain on a steep S slope in this heat. stun.gif

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Arete
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Arete
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PostSun Aug 15, 2010 12:25 pm 
seawallrunner wrote:
what a beautiful trip report - what a great trip with your kids too. Congrats to everyone! I would love to go to the Jerry lakes area - that place has been calling my name for a long time.
Thanks swr! I'd love to know a good way to get to those lakes. From looking at the maps it looked best to us to consider going over the top of the east lookout site of Crater and then down the back side of Crater and along below the glacier toward the lakes. Have you heard of anyone going there?

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Eric
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Eric
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PostSun Aug 15, 2010 12:51 pm 
Search for TRs by people doing Jack Mtn and you'll find info about getting to those lakes. It is common to use a camp there for two nights and make it a 3 day trip.

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Tom
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PostSun Aug 15, 2010 1:03 pm 
Fun trip. You can get to the lakes via the East Lookout or the trail to Crater (leave the trail at some point and aim for the pass above the glacier). We did a loop and climbed the summit on our way out.

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Arete
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Arete
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PostSun Aug 15, 2010 2:38 pm 
Thanks Eric & Tom! This looks like a great trip.

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Dayhike Mike
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Dayhike Mike
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PostSun Aug 15, 2010 11:46 pm 
That's a really fun mountain. Love the way it transitions so abruptly from heavily engineered switchbacks to full-on class 3 scrambling and then back to engineered trail again without skipping a beat. Great fun and phenomenal views! up.gif up.gif

"There is only one basic human right, the right to do as you damn well please. And with it comes the only basic human duty, the duty to take the consequences." -P.J. O'Rourke "Ignorance is natural. Stupidity takes commitment." -Solomon Short
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D. Inscho
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Joined: 28 Feb 2010
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D. Inscho
Not bored yet...
PostWed Aug 18, 2010 9:21 pm 
Looks like a well prepared expedition, the dog made it up there too? I stayed at Jerry Lakes in 2006 and took the route from the east ridge, dropping down to the cirque. The glacier is nothing like it is represented on the USGS. I'm not a climber and I found it easy except for a cliff band or two dropping from the ridge. Here is the WTA report: http://www.wta.org/go-hiking/trip-reports/tripreport-2006090104 Beautifully quiet place.

http://david-inscho.smugmug.com/ The key to a successful trip is to do the planning during work hours. -- John Muir “My most memorable hikes can be classified as 'Shortcuts that Backfired'.” --Ed Abbey
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wildernessed
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Joined: 31 Oct 2004
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wildernessed
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PostFri Aug 20, 2010 6:48 pm 
up.gif I always wondered what the name of that mountain was when I drove through there, nice TR and pics, from you and Magellan. I picked up the GTM the other day. Looks like a worker with views.

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