Forum Index > Trip Reports > Loose Tooth - Snowing on the summit 05-21-11
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Sadie's Driver
Sadie's Driver



Joined: 24 Apr 2006
Posts: 1763 | TRs | Pics
Location: Welcome Pass
Sadie's Driver
Sadie's Driver
PostSat May 21, 2011 9:33 pm 
Well, our little class adventure today was to climb The Tooth and its four pitches. Nevermind that the weatherman said it was going to be crappy today! (And it was.) You start this little climb from the Alpental ski area, head toward Source Lake and then go west toward Pineapple Pass, drop below the gendarme and up-climb to the base of The Tooth. Amazingly, this was a popular hike today. The Washington Alpine Club (WAC) (our rag-tag 6 climbers), the Mounties with 8 climbers and then a independent group of 5 climbers. We must have scared everyone off - we had the place to ourselves. The 6 WAC instructors set the ropes as we eager climbers elevated from one pitch to another. Interesting little climb. We were greeted with snow about Noon! It made the climbs and rappels pretty slick - but everyone got off the mountain safely. We heard plenty of avi releases. Be careful out there! Visibility was nil coming down until we got below the clouds. No views today! (AND, someone DID lose a tooth - well a crown, at least. I'm responsible - I offered some rather cold/hard gummy bears that pulled the little sucker out of its socket! Sorry, Charles!)
Anita re-packing
Anita re-packing
Liz checking her pack
Liz checking her pack
Katie and her pack check
Katie and her pack check
Recent slides off of Chair
Recent slides off of Chair
Parker above Source Lake
Parker above Source Lake
Liz, Tim and Anita heading to the ridge
Liz, Tim and Anita heading to the ridge
Other Tooth Travelers
Other Tooth Travelers
Mounties group scrapping their plans to do The Tooth
Mounties group scrapping their plans to do The Tooth
Looking up towards the ridge to head to Pineapple Pass
Looking up towards the ridge to head to Pineapple Pass
Anita depositing her poles
Anita depositing her poles
Reaching the top of Pineapple Pass
Reaching the top of Pineapple Pass
Assessing the route
Assessing the route
Climb on!
Climb on!
Anita,Tim and John waiting to head up The Tooth
Anita,Tim and John waiting to head up The Tooth
Phil and a freeloader . . . er, visitor
Phil and a freeloader . . . er, visitor
A group thinking about doing The Tooth
A group thinking about doing The Tooth
Colleen, Phil, me trying to stay warm!
Colleen, Phil, me trying to stay warm!
Anita getting ready to head up
Anita getting ready to head up
The driver on the summit of The Tooth
The driver on the summit of The Tooth
Anita and Amanda on the summit of The Tooth
Anita and Amanda on the summit of The Tooth
Gerhardt on the summit of The Tooth
Gerhardt on the summit of The Tooth
Tim on the summit of The Tooth
Tim on the summit of The Tooth
Everyone's down.
Everyone's down.
The Tooth Team!!!
The Tooth Team!!!
Great day with some great team members! up.gif

Four-paw buddy lets me tag along!
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Layback
Cascades Expatriate



Joined: 16 Mar 2007
Posts: 5712 | TRs | Pics
Location: Back East
Layback
Cascades Expatriate
PostSat May 21, 2011 9:37 pm 
Nice job, but 12 people on an alpine rock climb? Why do you guys fix ropes on the Tooth? I understand the Mounties had 6 and turned around because of avy activity and a large WAC group that was fixing ropes.

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Sadie's Driver
Sadie's Driver



Joined: 24 Apr 2006
Posts: 1763 | TRs | Pics
Location: Welcome Pass
Sadie's Driver
Sadie's Driver
PostSat May 21, 2011 9:38 pm 
6 students and 6 instructors.

Four-paw buddy lets me tag along!
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touron
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Joined: 15 Sep 2003
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Location: Plymouth Rock
touron
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PostSat May 21, 2011 10:00 pm 
Layback wrote:
Why do you guys fix ropes on The Tooth?
Yeah, why not dental floss?

Touron is a nougat of Arabic origin made with almonds and honey or sugar, without which it would just not be Christmas in Spain.
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ira
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Joined: 23 Aug 2010
Posts: 85 | TRs | Pics
ira
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PostSat May 21, 2011 10:11 pm 
nice job. what a difference a day makes. it was so beautiful up there yesterday we were lounging in the sun having to put extra sunscreen on. we had 9 students and 6 instructors.

-ira
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Layback
Cascades Expatriate



Joined: 16 Mar 2007
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Location: Back East
Layback
Cascades Expatriate
PostSat May 21, 2011 10:14 pm 
ira wrote:
we had 9 students and 6 instructors.
So the WAC had 15 people and fixed ropes on The Tooth yesterday and 12 people and fixed ropes on The Tooth today? And that doesn't bother you in the least?

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ira
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ira
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PostSat May 21, 2011 10:17 pm 
no it doesn't bother me. it's a class and that's what happens in a class. there were only two other people the entire day on friday and we let them climb and rappel through when they wanted and let them use our ropes for rappel to speed them along.

-ira
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SeanSullivan86
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Joined: 25 Jul 2009
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SeanSullivan86
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PostSat May 21, 2011 10:18 pm 
Just curious, what did you use to ascend the fixed lines? Prusik(s) ? Or something fancier? With regards to the Mounties group... well.. tough sh##, they should've gotten an earlier start doing the Tooth on a weekend. ETA: Minor nitpick... isn't that ridge (Denny, Tooth, etc) the Wilderness boundary? So when you reach Pineapple Pass you're subject to the 12 person party size limit?

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ira
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ira
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PostSun May 22, 2011 5:36 am 
we didn't fix lines except for the third pitch which is class 4. on that pitch they climbed and moved a prussik along in case they slipped. On pitches 1, 2, and 4 they were belayed from the top of each pitch as a follower. not sure how this fixed line thing started. we do send instructors up first to get anchors and ropes in place for climbing but everyone climbs on the rope and it is then thrown back down for the next climber to come up. no different than if two people were going out to climb it except the second doesn't have to pull gear.

-ira
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wildernessed
viewbagger



Joined: 31 Oct 2004
Posts: 9275 | TRs | Pics
Location: Wenatchee
wildernessed
viewbagger
PostSun May 22, 2011 9:56 am 
up.gif Awesome !

Living in the Anthropocene
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BarbE
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Joined: 28 Jul 2006
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BarbE
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PostSun May 22, 2011 11:40 am 
Sadie's Driver wrote:
The driver on the summit of The Tooth
The driver on the summit of The Tooth
Way to go! up.gif up.gif up.gif Congrats dance.gif

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Tom_Sjolseth
Born Yesterday



Joined: 30 May 2007
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Tom_Sjolseth
Born Yesterday
PostSun May 22, 2011 12:10 pm 
Nice work, SD. up.gif

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Jim Dockery
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Jim Dockery
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PostSun May 22, 2011 12:47 pm 
Good experience in not perfect conditions.

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Bernardo
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Bernardo
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PostSun May 22, 2011 1:13 pm 
Sounds like a good time. Except the dental part.

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beaudaddy
Coast To Cascades



Joined: 25 Feb 2010
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beaudaddy
Coast To Cascades
PostSun May 22, 2011 2:17 pm 
Awesome Suzanne!!! smile.gif

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