Forum Index > Trip Reports > Buckner 9114' and Horseshoe 8480' 7/17/11
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raising3hikers
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PostSun Jul 17, 2011 9:09 pm 
I took the family camping up the Cascade River Road on Saturday at the Marble Creek CG. A good time but a little wet with the drizzle. I planned for a big day hike on Sunday if the weather improved. I had read that the road is open to the Cascade Pass TH and I wanted to do something up that way if it wasn't raining when I woke up. I woke up at 5 with no sound of rain, so I headed up to attempt Buckner and maybe Booker and Horseshoe if things looked good and went well. I left the Cascade Pass TH by 6 and soon found patchy snow along the trail. At around 4500', the snow was constant and deep. The sun was trying to stay out by the time I reached Cascade Pass, but I could see clouds moving and the wind was blowing a little bit.
Pelton Peak
Pelton Peak
the ptarmigans haven't changed color yet
the ptarmigans haven't changed color yet
I headed straight up hill towards Sahale Arm following some other steps put into the snow. I found a camera and looked through it to find that the owner took a picture of his name and phone number, a great idea. I continued to move to help me stay warm with the cold wind blowing down off of the snow fields. The arm was mostly covered in snow and I was soon at the Sahale glacier. Talked with a couple of guys ready to pack up their tent before I headed down below the glacier to lose 800' to get to Upper Horseshoe basin.
Sahale Peak
Sahale Peak
Formidable
Formidable
I found the steep snow finger at around 6600' to get me to the basin. I traverse towards Buckner as the clouds were swirling around its summit area. I looked over towards Booker and decided I probably wouldn't be trying that one today. As I got below Horseshoe Peak, it started to sprinkle a little bit and the cloud layer moved down to about 8500'.
Ripsaw Ridge and Buckner
Ripsaw Ridge and Buckner
clouds swirling around Buckner
clouds swirling around Buckner
The light rain stopped and I decided to give Buckner a go. I went into the clouds and kept gaining elevation up the steep snow slope. At an area where I could see a few rocky areas, I checked my camera to help me navigate my way to the ridge. It worked perfectly and I gained the ridge about 200' below the summit exactly where I hoped to be. As I made my way up the last few snow slopes, I could see 2 people just getting to the summit. I said hi, and asked if they were so and so from the name on the camera. It was their camera and what an odd place to get it back, at the summit of Buckner. They had come up from the North Face, that's why I didn't see anybody on my SW route. I found the summit register placed there by fwb, dicey and iron almost a year ago. There were no summit views as the clouds were thick and I wanted to head back down below them.
Buckner summit register
Buckner summit register
Since it took me a little over 5 hours to get to the summit, I figured I would at least get a look at Horseshoe Peak while I was in the area. I've read up on the route, so I was pretty familiar with it and made my way over there. I brought a rope with me just in case I wanted to give it a try. I gained the steep snow slopes towards the summit and found a gully to bring me to a small saddle. From here, I could see the ledge system that takes you to the summit.
Horseshoe Peak
Horseshoe Peak
the ledge to the notch below the summit
the ledge to the notch below the summit
I took the ledge and was soon below the summit at an interesting move I had read about. Right above me, where I could grab, was rap slings and I pulled myself up and summited Horseshoe Peak. Tagged the summit and found the register and saw a few more names I recognize. The views here were quite a bit better than Buckner since I was below the cloud layer. Sahale, Boston and Forbidden were all in sight along with the big Boston glacier.
Sahale and Boston peaks
Sahale and Boston peaks
Boston glacier
Boston glacier
my hand line from the Horseshoe notch
my hand line from the Horseshoe notch
I got my rope out and made myself a hand line to get me back down the ledge. It all worked out pretty good and was soon traversing back in the Upper Horseshoe basin towards the Sahale camp area. I kept going through and there was a little blue sky starting to come out along with dark clouds in other directions. The hike down from Cascade Pass was uneventful except for the loud crashing noises of avalanches coming down off of Johannesburg. I reached my truck and saw a few deer hanging around the mostly empty parking lot.
the Triplets getting covered by clouds
the Triplets getting covered by clouds
Torment to Forbidden
Torment to Forbidden
15.25 miles 7300 elevation gain 10.5 hours RT

Eric Eames
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Randy
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PostSun Jul 17, 2011 9:54 pm 
I'm amazed you can do all these trips with three small kids. I find my 11 month old takes up most of my free time. Good outing though, gotta get in there some day.

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Magellan
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PostSun Jul 17, 2011 10:07 pm 
All in a days work. up.gif up.gif

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cartman
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PostMon Jul 18, 2011 10:29 am 
You're racking 'em up this year. Must be nice to do that with a light pack. Looks like you had ideal conditions with the snow covering the scree. Horseshoe ledge is rather exposed, esp. with that sporty move in the middle around the bulge. Bomber hidden handholds to lift yourself over the top are great.

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silence
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PostMon Jul 18, 2011 12:39 pm 
yeah .. all in a days work agree.gif as usual your photos are awesome .. i always wonder how you have time for that too .. way to go bud!!

PHOTOS FILMS Keep a good head and always carry a light bulb. – Bob Dylan
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honey badger
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PostMon Jul 18, 2011 1:08 pm 
Looks like a good outing and nice to see good weather (and pictures) from that area. After last week in a near whiteout, I lost enthusiasm to go back for a while. When we did Horseshoe I opened the reg. It was wet and I looked up and saw dark clouds filling in quick with flashes of bright light. Not a camera flash either. Capped the reg and the three of us got off that rock in record time.

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Sadie's Driver
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Sadie's Driver
Sadie's Driver
PostMon Jul 18, 2011 1:40 pm 
Simply awesome! eek.gif borank.gif borank.gif

Four-paw buddy lets me tag along!
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raising3hikers
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raising3hikers
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PostTue Jul 19, 2011 7:12 pm 
cartman wrote:
Looks like you had ideal conditions with the snow covering the scree
I really think that made a huge difference, I saw a couple areas not covered by snow and thought to myself, I'm glad I'm on snow today going up this steep mountain fwb- the Horseshoe register was still damp and only one other party signed it since your group was there a year ago Might have to do a fall trip there to go for Booker and see the area in a different season, I bet it would be nice

Eric Eames
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b00
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PostWed Jul 20, 2011 2:39 pm 
you are so fast! it took us ~13 or 14hours round trip from sahale camp. you did it 3 or 4 hours faster from farther away! that ramp on horseshoe was well positioned, nice pic of it. :>)

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Roald
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PostWed Jul 20, 2011 3:43 pm 
Randy wrote:
I'm amazed you can do all these trips with three small kids. I find my 11 month old takes up most of my free time. Good outing though, gotta get in there some day.
Ditto. Not only the trips, but your blazing times! Congrats!

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Sabahsboy
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PostWed Jul 20, 2011 7:54 pm 
Breathtaking adventure! You must return to Buckner, of course, on a clear, blue sky day! Otherwise, the photos are superb! My joints are aching just to read of your feat, elevation gained and miles covered. P.S., just looked at photos, again. OMG! Way fantastic! In days of yore, I did Sahale a few times, but never beyond; am I sorry? Well, I would have ruined my camera shooting all the wonders! BTW, glad your endeavor reunited the climbers with camera atop Buckner! Remarkable! View of Triplets is soooo fine! Formidable is superb!

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iron
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iron
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PostSat Jul 23, 2011 10:35 pm 
too fast!

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